Glacier: Sperry Chalet
Hey everyone! This past July we had an awesome trip to glacier and I've just gotten around to editing photos.
For the last five years, we’ve tried—unsuccessfully—to snag a reservation at Sperry. Last year, we submitted right at 8 a.m. and still ended up something like 1,500th in line. So when we finally got the email that we’d been chosen to spend a couple of nights, we were pumped. Since the booking fell in the middle of the week, we also figured we’d try for a backpacking trip. To our double surprise, Corrie won her backcountry permit lottery too. The plan was set: two weeks of Glacier, starting with three days at Sperry Chalet, followed by an eight-day push across the park via the Northern Traverse.
Sperry Chalet, nestled high in Glacier National Park’s backcountry, is one of only two remaining historic wilderness chalets built by the Great Northern Railway in the early 20th century to promote tourism in the “American Alps.” Completed in 1914 and accessible only by trail, the stone-built chalet offered rustic accommodations and hearty meals for adventurous visitors exploring the park’s rugged terrain. It quickly became a beloved destination, serving as both a basecamp for climbs to Sperry Glacier and a retreat with sweeping mountain views.
In 2017, the Sprague Fire gutted the main dormitory, leaving only its stone walls standing. Thanks to a remarkable reconstruction effort led by the National Park Service and a host of partners, Sperry Chalet was fully restored and reopened in 2020, once again welcoming hikers to experience its unique blend of history, wilderness, and hospitality.
With the plan in place, Corrie planned all the meals, packed the food, and we loaded up the car. The only hiccup was my feet. After a recent Shoshone Geyser trip, an old injury had flared up. Back in 2012 I had a nasty bout of plantar fasciitis, and whether it was my shoes or the terrain, my heels started hurting again. I wasn’t sure if I’d be physically up for the traverse, but I decided the hike up to Sperry would be a test run.
Our original plan was to start early to beat the heat and find parking, but when we woke up to rain and low clouds, we decided to delay—forecasts promised better weather later in the day. At the trailhead Corrie taped up my feet, we threw on rain gear, and started the 3,400-foot climb. After the first mile the rain eased, and before long we ditched the jackets to hike in mist and drizzle. The trail climbed steadily through old cedar forest before opening into the Sprague Fire burn. The stark landscape was softened by a huge crop of berries—serviceberry, raspberry, and thimbleberry—which slowed us down in the best way.
Eventually we reached Beaver Medicine Falls, and not long after, caught our first glimpse of the chalet perched high above us.
We arrived wet, sweaty, but happy. Staff greeted us with cold lemonade—a small gesture that felt downright luxurious after the climb. After a quick orientation we headed to our room to rest before dinner.
The next morning, the forecast promised afternoon sun, so we lingered over a late breakfast and enjoyed a lazy morning around the chalet before setting off for Sperry Glacier.
The Sperry Glacier hike is a classic Glacier Park adventure, climbing nearly 1,600 feet over 3.5 miles from the chalet. The trail wraps around the cirque of Glacier Basin, crossing meadows and talus slopes before switchbacking up a series of benches toward Comeau Pass. Geologically, this landscape tells the story of ancient ice—Sperry Glacier, though much reduced today, once carved out the dramatic U-shaped basin the chalet overlooks. Along the way, waterfalls like Akaiyan Falls and alpine lakes such as Feather Woman and Akaiyan Lakes dot the route, each framed by cliffs of ancient sedimentary rock—limestones, shales, and sandstones that formed hundreds of millions of years ago when this area lay under a shallow sea. At Comeau Pass, a narrow cleft in the cliffs opens to reveal a breathtaking panorama: turquoise lakes scattered below and, above, the windswept expanse of Sperry Glacier.
We started out socked in by clouds, but just past Feather Woman Falls a shaft of sunlight broke through and lit the valley below. The peaks around us stayed shrouded in fast-moving clouds, creating a dramatic contrast—clear views down into the basin, swirling mist above. Every so often, the clouds would part just enough to reveal a hidden lake or jagged peak before closing in again.
We continued our way up the trail stopping frequently to take pictures as the clouds moved through the area constantly changing the light.
When we arrived at Comeau Pass, a few hikers were on their way back from the glacier and mentioned that they were unable to get a view due to the clouds. We would soon see if Our decision to wait until later would pay off. As we hiked across sperry basin, there were times that visibility would reduce to about 25 yards. Since it was our first time in the area, we took care not to get lost in the maze of snow, rocks, and clouds.
Just as we reached the end of the trail, the clouds began to lift, and we had a clear view of Sperry Glacier. We pulled out the beers we’d carried up and toasted a bittersweet “goodbye” to the glacier. We lingered for nearly an hour, soaking in the alpine quiet, broken only by the sudden appearance of a lone mountain goat who wandered over to check us out before disappearing into the rocks.
On the hike back down, the clouds continued to break, unveiling breathtaking views in every direction. We took our time, stopping far more often than on the way up, savoring each glimpse of the lakes, waterfalls, and wildflower meadows as if seeing them for the first time. By the time we reached Glacier Basin, we were greeted by the first of many mountain goats, including a nursery group of seven that decided to claim the trail at Feather Woman Falls. We gave them plenty of space, stepping off to watch as they ambled by, completely unfazed by us.
Back at the chalet, the afternoon settled into that perfect blend of tired and content. We lounged outside, gazing down-valley as the afternoon light painted the surrounding peaks. More goats wandered right up to the property just before dinner, as if they too had a standing reservation. Dinner itself was a hearty plate of prime rib—rich, savory, and exactly what you want after a big mountain day.
The following morning we finally woke to crystal-clear skies. I slipped outside early with my camera to catch the mountains glowing in the first light of day before we headed in for an early breakfast.
With full stomachs, we began the descent back to the trailhead, ready to reorganize and repack for our Northern Traverse starting the next morning. My feet were tender, but good enough to convince me the trip was still on.
A stay at Sperry is no small expense, but it’s absolutely worth every penny. Between the history, the hospitality, the wildlife, and the unrivaled scenery, it’s an experience that feels timeless. We’ll keep throwing our names in the lottery—there’s simply too much up there left to explore.
-Jake
