Jacob W. Frank: Blog https://www.jwfrank.com/blog en-us (C) Jacob W. Frank [email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Sun, 23 Feb 2025 15:18:00 GMT Sun, 23 Feb 2025 15:18:00 GMT https://www.jwfrank.com/img/s/v-12/u749270601-o621644733-50.jpg Jacob W. Frank: Blog https://www.jwfrank.com/blog 120 73 Custer Gallatin: Maxey Cabin https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2025/2/maxey-cabin Hey everyone,

Last weekend, we stayed at the Maxey Cabin in Hyalite Canyon. My cousins drove in from Cheyenne the day before to join us. After a quick lunch at Red Tractor Pizza in town, we headed to the trailhead. The ski to the cabin is short—about 0.6 miles—so we used a pulk sled and made a few trips to haul all our gear up.

Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiing into the cabCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiing into the cabNPS / Jacob W. Frank

After settling in and getting the drinks flowing, two skiers arrived at the cabin around 6:30 p.m. That’s when I realized I had marked the wrong dates on the calendar—our reservation was for March, not February. Since February has exactly four weeks, the dates lined up perfectly, leading to the mix-up. The other group had the cabin reserved for the entire weekend, but they kindly offered to return in the morning so we’d have time to pack up. That meant we had two days' worth of food and alcohol to finish in just one night!

The next morning, we woke up to 4–5 inches of fresh snow. I took some time to capture photos of the cabin blanketed in white. The cabin consists of three structures: two for sleeping and one for wood storage. Only one of the sleeping cabins has a wood stove, so if you're staying in the unheated room, you either need a very warm sleeping bag or should limit the group to the four beds in the main cabin

Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning after a snoCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning after a snoNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning after a snoCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning after a snoNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning after a snoCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning after a snoNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: wood shed with fresCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: wood shed with fresNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: after a snow stormCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: after a snow stormNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: views from the deckCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: views from the deckNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: group photoCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: group photoNPS / Jacob W. Frank

While the girls were making breakfast, the boys made a quick trip to ski the first load of gear back to the car. After breakfast, we cleaned up the cabin, took some photos of the interior, and skied the rest of the gear back to the car.

Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: inside viewsCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: inside viewsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: inside views extraCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: inside views extraNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The views outside the cabin are stunning, especially with a fresh blanket of snow. Most of the ski to the cabin winds through the trees, but a few meadows open up along the way, offering incredible views of the canyon.

Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiers on the trailCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiers on the trailNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: views along the traCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: views along the traNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning views fromCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: morning views fromNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiers in the meadoCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiers in the meadoNPS / Jacob W. Frank

After grabbing our day packs from the car, we set out for Palisade Falls. From the Maxey Cabin Trailhead, it’s just under 2.5 miles one way to the base of the falls.

Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiing into the cabCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiing into the cabNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiing to PalisadeCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiing to PalisadeNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: Palisade FallsCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: Palisade FallsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The weather was perfect—until we reached the falls, where the wind suddenly picked up. We only stayed for a short while before retreating into the trees, where we found shelter from the wind and stopped for lunch before skiing back to the car. On the way back, we made one last pass by the cabin to wave goodbye.

Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiers heading backCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: skiers heading backNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: trail from the cabiCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: trail from the cabiNPS / Jacob W. Frank Custer Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: views from the meadCuster Gallatin National Forest Maxey Cabin: views from the meadNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Trip Notes: Our trip to Maxey Cabin marked our eighth stay in a cabin within Custer Gallatin National Forest. While the views from the cabin are fantastic, it was our least favorite for a group stay. Compared to other cabins, it felt a bit cramped and lacked many basic supplies, like a cook stove and utensils. That said, the wood "spoons" I carved to eat our chili actually worked pretty well!

 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana photography ski https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2025/2/maxey-cabin Sat, 22 Feb 2025 03:43:42 GMT
Yellowstone: Union Falls and Mr. Bubbles https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/10/Bechler Hey Everyone,

We've had a trip to the Bechler region on our to-do list for a long time, but the best time to go is during Corrie's work crunch time. With the spectacular late-season weather that we've had this year, we were able to sneak in an overnight trip to Union Falls and a two-night trip into Bechler Canyon.

To start, we drove out to the Grassy Lake Reservoir Trailhead. The final drive down to the parking lot is steep and rutted. If you don't have an off-road vehicle, it's probably best to walk it first to see if your car can make it. After a short distance from the parking lot, we were greeted by a Yellowstone boundary sign.

Grassy Lake TrailheadGrassy Lake TrailheadNPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a mile, we arrived at the Falls River crossing. It's wide and cold. I think crossing this early in the season would be fairly challenging, you definitely want to make sure you have some trekking poles.

Falls River from Mountain Ash Creek TrailFalls River from Mountain Ash Creek TrailNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once on the other side of the river, the trail is mostly nondescript and through the trees. There are a few points along the way that open up, but the views in the distance are of more trees.

Mountain Ash Creek TrailMountain Ash Creek TrailNPS / Jacob W. Frank

While this trail may be a destination hike, the final destination is ABSOLUTELY worth the 15+ miles roundtrip. We arrived at the overlook in the afternoon as planned. The light at our back created a nice little rainbow in the spray of the falls.

Union Falls from overlookUnion Falls from overlookNPS / Jacob W. Frank Union Falls base and rainbowUnion Falls base and rainbowNPS / Jacob W. Frank

I noticed that there was a small trail down to the base of the falls. After getting fairly wet from the spray on the hike down, I was able to find a dry spot where I could take a photo.

Union Falls and Mountain Ash CreekUnion Falls and Mountain Ash CreekNPS / Jacob W. Frank

We hiked back to the junction and took the trail up to Scout Pool. It's not a hot spring, but the water has some thermal influence so it's probably in the 70s. It was a great spot to jump in and wash off the sweat from the day's hike before heading back to camp and hitting the sack.

Scout Pool near Union FallsScout Pool near Union FallsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The following morning our plan was to hike back to the trailhead, then take Grassy Lake Road west until we could hook up with Cave Falls Road and take that into Bechler. We certainly missed the peak of the fall color, but there were still some occasional pockets of color. The other thing we noticed is how incredibly clear the water is. When the sun is overhead and you look with polarized lenses, you can see right through the water like it's barely there. 

Mountain Ash Creek crossing near 9U4Mountain Ash Creek crossing near 9U4NPS / Jacob W. Frank Mountain Ash Creek confluence near 9U4Mountain Ash Creek confluence near 9U4NPS / Jacob W. Frank Proposition Creek crossing on Mountain Ash Creek TrailProposition Creek crossing on Mountain Ash Creek TrailNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The hike back out was uneventful, although there's a fairly steady climb out from the campsite on the way out. 

Morning light on Mountain Ash Creek TrailMorning light on Mountain Ash Creek TrailNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Back at the trailhead, we jumped in the car and headed over towards Bechler. It's about 2.5 hours of driving on the dirt road. In some places you need to go very slowly due to the condition of the road. We arrived to the area late afternoon, set up camp, and then drove out to Cave Falls. It's not a huge drop, but it's a wide falls with a decent amount of water, even this late in the year.

Fall afternoon at Cave FallsFall afternoon at Cave FallsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Visitors at Cave FallsVisitors at Cave FallsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The following morning we set off from the Bechler Ranger Station to spend two nights in Bechler Canyon. As with Union Falls, the trail starts off in the trees, but eventually it opens up when you arrive to Bechler Meadows. After crossing the suspension footbridge, it's about three miles to cross the entire meadow.

Bechler Meadows Trail: suspension bridge crossingBechler Meadows Trail: suspension bridge crossingNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler Meadows Trail: hikers heading northBechler Meadows Trail: hikers heading northNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler Meadows Trail: hazy view of the TetonsBechler Meadows Trail: hazy view of the TetonsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

At the mouth of Bechler Canyon, the vegetation completely changes. It turns into Fern Gully with giant spruce trees and ferns everywhere.

Bechler River Trail: fall colors in Bechler CanyonBechler River Trail: fall colors in Bechler CanyonNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: hiker through fernsBechler River Trail: hiker through fernsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once in the canyon, you gradually start to climb as you make your way up to Three Rivers Junction. Along the way you hike by another couple beautiful waterfalls. The first, Colonnade Falls, is a two-in-one.

Bechler River Trail: Colonade FallsBechler River Trail: Colonade FallsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Shortly after Colonnade Falls, you arrive at Iris Falls. There was so much spray coming off this falls, that when I took a photo of it I was almost able to see a full 360º rainbow.

Bechler River Trail: Iris Falls and rainbowBechler River Trail: Iris Falls and rainbowNPS / Jacob W. Frank

We arrived late afternoon and called it an early night after the big hike in. The following morning, we made breakfast and got an early start on the short hike up to Mr. Bubbles. With the cooler air temps in the morning, we were able to see all the thermal features near the Bechler River that we didn't notice the day before.

Bechler River Trail: tributary reflectionsBechler River Trail: tributary reflectionsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: morning steam along bechler RiverBechler River Trail: morning steam along bechler RiverNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: themal pool reflections near 9B0Bechler River Trail: themal pool reflections near 9B0NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The trail through the canyon takes you near some beautiful thermal features. I tried to find the names of features on a map, but I'm not sure if there are official names or not.

Bechler River Trail: hiker near thermal poolsBechler River Trail: hiker near thermal poolsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: morning themal pool reflectionsBechler River Trail: morning themal pool reflectionsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: morning thermal pool viewsBechler River Trail: morning thermal pool viewsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: hiker near thermal pools (2)Bechler River Trail: hiker near thermal pools (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: Bechler River near Three Rivers JunctionBechler River Trail: Bechler River near Three Rivers JunctionNPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we arrived at Ferris Fork junction, we started seeing signs of more thermal influence in the water.

Bechler River Trail: Ferris Fork crossingBechler River Trail: Ferris Fork crossingNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once we passed Ragged Falls, we arrived at the spur trail out to our destination.

Bechler River Trail: Ragged FallsBechler River Trail: Ragged FallsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Hiking in we could see a thermal feature dumping into the river. Upon closer look, there was a boiling hot spring and travertine feature.

Ferris Fork Spur Trail: Ferris Fork thermal featuresFerris Fork Spur Trail: Ferris Fork thermal featuresNPS / Jacob W. Frank Ferris Fork Spur Trail: travertine feature flowing into Ferris FFerris Fork Spur Trail: travertine feature flowing into Ferris FNPS / Jacob W. Frank Ferris Fork Spur Trail: travertine feature flowing into Ferris FFerris Fork Spur Trail: travertine feature flowing into Ferris FNPS / Jacob W. Frank

At the end of the trail, roughly 16 miles from our starting point, we arrived at our destination. We have plenty of friends that suggested we hike out here, but we didn't really get what all the fuss was about. Now that we were here with the place to ourselves, we could see the allure. 

Ferris Fork Spur Trail: Thermal pool along Ferris Fork (2)Ferris Fork Spur Trail: Thermal pool along Ferris Fork (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

It wasn't until we jumped in that we "got it." The area where you soak, aptly named Mr. Bubbles, is a mixture of hot water from a nearby spring and the cold water from the Ferris Fork. Depending on where you sit in the feature, you can "adjust" the temperature to your liking. During the 2.5 hours we soaked, we couldn't believe we had the place to ourselves. We kept saying that someone was going to show up eventually, but it never happened. 

Ferris Fork Spur Trail: thermal poolFerris Fork Spur Trail: thermal poolNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Back at camp, we ate lunch and then took naps in the sun. I went back out to take photos during the sunset before happy hour and dinner.

Bechler River Trail:Bechler River Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail:Bechler River Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail:Bechler River Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail:Bechler River Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail:Bechler River Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The weather was clear and we were close to a new moon, so I decided to head out to try and get some photos of the night sky. I scouted a place during my sunset stroll so I knew where I wanted to shoot, but unfortunately I didn't have a tripod. So after creating a janky way to hold my camera with my trekking poles and pack, I was able to capture a keeper.

Bechler River Trail: Milky Way reflections in thermal poolBechler River Trail: Milky Way reflections in thermal poolNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The next morning we had a long hike and drive ahead of us, so we started early. Even though we were back tracking, it was nice to get to see the same spots in different lighting. 

Bechler River Trail: fall colors along creek crossingsBechler River Trail: fall colors along creek crossingsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: Lower Bechler Canyon FordBechler River Trail: Lower Bechler Canyon FordNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: hiker through Lower bechler Canyon FordBechler River Trail: hiker through Lower bechler Canyon FordNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Especially the waterfalls... They were in the shade this time around so I was able to do some longer exposure shots of the cascades and falls.

Bechler River Trail: casscades on Bechler RiverBechler River Trail: casscades on Bechler RiverNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: steep drop on Bechler RiverBechler River Trail: steep drop on Bechler RiverNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: Iris Falls and fall colorBechler River Trail: Iris Falls and fall colorNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bechler River Trail: Iris Falls and fall color (2)Bechler River Trail: Iris Falls and fall color (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Back in the meadow, there was some haze in the distance that prevented us from seeing the Tetons with too much definition.

Bechler Meadows Trail: hazy view of the Tetons (2)Bechler Meadows Trail: hazy view of the Tetons (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We could even smell the smoke in the air a little bit. We made it back to the trailhead in the early afternoon, tired, but recharged from a spectacular trip in a new part of the park for us.
 

Trip details: In total we hiked just shy of 50 miles. The roundtrip out to Union Falls and Scout pool is about 17 miles with ~2,000 feet of elevation, and roundtrip out to Mr. Bubbles is about 32 miles and ~1,900 feet of elevation. It seems like the window for this trip is between late-August and when the snow flies. I'd love to hit this in peak fall color, but it seems that we were just on the back end of it, especially with the big winds that were in the area the week before.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking photography Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/10/Bechler Mon, 14 Oct 2024 22:54:34 GMT
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Clay Butte to Flat Rock Lake Loop https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/9/flat-rock-lake Hey Everyone,

It's that time of year, Labor Day Weekend, where we usually head into the mountains for a trip of epic proportions. Last year, we hiked out to Thorofare Ranger Station in Yellowstone. This year we planned to head back into the Absaorka-Beartooth Wilderness in Custer Gallatin National Forest although it would start and end from the Clay Butte Lookout Trailhead in Shoshone National Forest. We planned for five days of backpacking, two of which would mostly be off trail. On day two, two of our friends planned to take an alternative route in so they could hike with us on days 3-5.

The Wx window looked great and the fireweed was already starting to turn red. We stopped in Cooke City for some coffee before setting off from the trailhead around noon.

Clay Butte Lookout signClay Butte Lookout signNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Day 1: Clay Butte Lookout to Granite Lake

The start of the trail was a lot of downhill to the south shore of Granite Lake. That was welcomed since our packs were especially heavy with five days worth of food. There was a slight tinge of haze in the sky, but Pilot and Index peaks were out in their full glory.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

When we made it to the south shore of Granite Lake, we had a small water crossing that was about knee deep. Toklat, who isn't a huge fan of water at times, dove right in after me and crossed with no issue. Near our crossing was a giant group site with a bear box. If it wasn't so close to the road it would probably be a fun place to hang out for the weekend with little effort to get in there.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (6)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After the crossing we hiked along the west shore of the lake through some meadows that looked like they would be extremely buggy in the spring and summer. By this time they were mostly dry and easy to cross. Eventually the trail moved away from the lake and up some steep granite terrain. 

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (9)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (10)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Clay Butte TH to Granite Lake (10)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

At the top of the climb we were greeted with another great view of Granite Lake just as the light was starting to get nice. We stopped for snacks before the final push to our first camp spot of the trip.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Since we've never been in this area before, we didn't know exactly where we could camp, but we had good ideas based on studying satellite imagery. So when we walked into Granite Lake we were pumped to find a primo campsite with a hang pole right near a rocky beach.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (6)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (8)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Day 2: Granite Lake to Jorden Lake

We woke up early to make coffee and breakfast along the lake and enjoy the sunrise. It was a bit chilly, but we didn't get any frost over night.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (10)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (10)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (11)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (11)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (12)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (13)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake (13)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After breakfast we hiked north along the inlet and up the drainage to Lake Elaine. It was extremely slow going, since the "trail" was steep and overgrown with lots of downed trees.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake to Lake Elaine (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake to Lake Elaine (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we gained the pass, we could look back and see Granite Lake in the distance.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake to Lake Elaine (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Granite Lake to Lake Elaine (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

At Lake Elaine we took the time to grab a snack and enjoy the views.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lake Elaine (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lake Elaine (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

From the foot of the lake, the trail followed the west shore of Lake Elaine until it climbed another pass towards Farley Lake.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lake Elaine (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lake Elaine (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lake Elaine (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lake Elaine (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

It was lunch time when we arrive to Farley Lake. We filtered water and relaxed for a long break. It's a good thing we decided to stop, because we took a wrong turn at the junction. I realized it when we were eating, so we only added like 15-20 minutes to the day.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

From Farley Lake there was a final high pass until we arrived at our destination of Jorden Lake.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we approached Jorden Lake, we dropped down to the outlet and crossed one final hill before we arrive at our campsite.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Farley Lake to Jorden Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Again, we didn't really know where we would camp, but we found another spectacular camp spot. This time we had our own private cascade behind our lakefront site.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Our friends were supposed to arrive around 6pm, but by the time we crawled into the tent around 8:30 they still hadn't arrived.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (6)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Before we went to bed that night, we discovered a hole in our sleeping pad. We were able to patch it with some duct tape, but it would prove to be an issue for the remainder of the trip. The benefit? Waking up in the middle of the night because you're cold only to realize that the Milky Way is out in its full glory.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Day 3: Jorden Lake to Flat Rock Lake, off-trail

When I woke up the following morning I noticed that we had a new tent next to ours. Turns out that our fiends showed up only a few minutes after we crawled into the tent.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (8)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (10)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (10)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (12)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a nice breakfast along the lake, we poured over our maps one last time before we started our off-trail climb. 

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake to Widowed Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake to Widowed Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake to Widowed Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Jorden Lake to Widowed Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

When we arrived at the first of many lakes of the day, I couldn't help but just saying "wow!" over and over again. The morning was still cool and the wind had yet to pick up, so the reflections in the water were beautiful.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Widowed LakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Widowed LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Widowed Lake to Anchor Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Widowed Lake to Anchor Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Widowed Lake to Anchor Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Widowed Lake to Anchor Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Our first "reroute" on the day came at Anchor Lake. When you look at a map, sometimes it looks like the route "goes" when it doesn't. All it takes is an 8ft ledge or fallen tree to prevent you from going a certain way. That kind of stuff doesn't show up on a map. But that's the fun of a route versus a trail. On the flip side, route finding can be mentally taxing. Always having to pay attention to each step instead of being able to engage "autopilot" on a trail. 

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor Lake to Big Butte Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor Lake to Big Butte Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor and Widowed lakesCGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor and Widowed lakesNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor Lake to Big Butte Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Anchor Lake to Big Butte Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

At Big Butte Lake, we stopped for a snack and to scout another reroute. The weather was perfect without a cloud in the sky.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Lunch at Big Butte lakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Lunch at Big Butte lakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Big Butte Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Big Butte Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Big Butte to east pass (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Big Butte to east pass (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Big Butte to east pass (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Big Butte to east pass (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We arrived at our first pass on the day. At the junction we had the option to continue north or east. We wanted to get all of the elevation out of the way first, so we continued north along a series of unnamed paternoster lakes.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: west of Gravel Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: west of Gravel Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we wrapped around the lake we could look down the east drainage to Gravel and Till lakes.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Gravel and Till lakesCGNF, AB Wilderness: Gravel and Till lakesNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (6)CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

It was extremely slow going, due to both the terrain and the views. But we took our time and plugged along. 

CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (9)CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (11CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (11NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (12CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (12NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (13CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (13NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After lunch, we reached the final pass on the day around 3pm. From here we would start our descent towards Flat Rock Lake.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (15CGNF, AB Wilderness: northeast draining above Big Butte Lake (15NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: hiking west of Cladocera Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: hiking west of Cladocera Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Lots of steep downhill through unstable boulderfields.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: hiking west of Cladocera Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: hiking west of Cladocera Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Cladocera and Copepod lakesCGNF, AB Wilderness: Cladocera and Copepod lakesNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: hiking west of Cladocera Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: hiking west of Cladocera Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Hiking to Copepod Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Hiking to Copepod Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod LakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (6)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After eight or so hours from when we started, we arrived at our final descent to Flat Rock Lake. 

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (8)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (9)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (10)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (10)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Our plan was to camp on the east side of the lake, but since we arrived so late all the flat spots around the lake were already taken. So when we walked past a couple flat spots near the west inlet creek, we made a team decision to set up camp. This was the best decision of the trip. Not only was our view from camp next to another cascade, but our view of the lake from a nearby rock outcrop was spectacular.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (12)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Copepod Lake to Flat Rock Lake (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Day 4: Flat Rock Lake to Thiel Lake, partially off trail

The following morning we woke up to some slight haze in the air, but it was still gorgeous. We ate breakfast, packed up and headed towards Martin Lake for the night.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (11)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (11)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (8)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (9)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (12)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (14)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (14)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The route today looked to be mostly downhill, until we would meet up with the trail near Green Lake. From there we would gain a couple hills before we reached our destination.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (16)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (16)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (17)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake (17)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The valley just below Flat Rock Lake is spectacular. There's a giant river bar surrounded by tundra at like 9,000' elevation. The water levels were very manageable this time of year, and I'm sure that the water in the spring makes this route much more difficult.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (7)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (8)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (9)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

There were a few of those hidden cliffs I mentioned earlier, so the route wasn't super apparent at first. But after a few backtracks we eventually down climbed a steep hill and made our way to Alp Lake.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (10)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (10)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (11)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (11)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (12)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Flat Rock Lake to Alp Lake (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

From here, we planned to meet up a with a social trail that we found on satellite imagery. Here, just like many of the lakes with boulderfields, we had to keep from stepping on all the pika scurrying around. 

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

At the outlet of Alp Lake we found the social trail. It wasn't always super apparent, but it was a little refreshing mentally to know that we wouldn't wander up to a cliff and have to reroute. Once we made it to Castle Lake, we stopped for lunch and our buddy pulled out his rod and reel to see if he could catch some trout.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake to Castle LakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Alp Lake to Castle LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a nice break we were back at it. More slow going, but we were following a route at least.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake to Green Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake to Green Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake to Green Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Castle Lake to Green Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Eventually, we made it back to the trail, where we dropped down into Green Lake. From here we climbed back up a short but steep ridge to Trail and Kidney Lakes. After the climb, we stopped at Trail Lake to filter some water and do some more fishing.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Whitcomb LakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Whitcomb LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail LakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank

From Trail Lake it was only a short distance to our destination. Since we arrived fairly early in the day, we decided to push onto the next lake which would add another 2-3 miles on the day. But it would also ensure that we would be closer to the car for the following day on the hike out.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail Lake to Wright LakeCGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail Lake to Wright LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Wright and Martin lakes (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Wright and Martin lakes (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail near Kidney Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail near Kidney Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we hiked past Kidney Lake, I kept turning around to check out the views behind us. When we got to the pass I stopped for pictures. When I turned around, BAM! Spectacular mountain views of where we had been hiking the past few days in the distance.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail near Kidney Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Trail near Kidney Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

This was our final pass on the day and would be hiking past a few unnamed lakes on the way to Thiel. But before we would arrive, we had hike down one final "hill," as it was described by one of the few hikers we passed on the trip. It turns out it was steep, like the trail down to Brink of the Lower Falls in Yellowstone, but without pavement and with giant rocks.  

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Kidney Lake to Thiel Lake (5)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Kidney Lake to Thiel Lake (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Kidney Lake to Thiel Lake (6)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Kidney Lake to Thiel Lake (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we arrived at Thiel, the obvious spots along the lake were already taken. We kept along the trail until we noticed a small social trail into the trees on the south side of the lake. As we followed it into the trees, we were greeted to another camp spot with great views. Of all the lakes, this was the least "user friendly" since there wasn't a rocky beach, but we were able to get water without getting stuck in the mud. We had the best sunset of the trip here to boot, although a bit hazy.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Day 5: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH

The final day we woke up and hit the trail early. Before we hiked in on Day 1, we read about the possibility of weather on the afternoon of Monday (today). So after a quick breakfast, we were hiking back to the car. This point of the trip with much lighter packs.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We had a small river crossing and a couple new sections of trail, but eventually we were back on the same route that we hiked in to Granite Lake.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (1)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (1)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (2)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We were cooking at this point, taking full advantage of the flat trail and the fact that we didn't have to stare at our feet.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (3)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The last challenge was the short-n-sweet hill that we had to climb back to the car.

CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (4)CGNF, AB Wilderness: Thiel Lake to Clay Butte TH (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Trip details: 5 days, 4 nights. 30 miles, ~5,700' elevation. ~10 miles off-trail

We've done a handful of trips in the Beartooths, and they were all awesome. This trip was the best that we've done so far. Successfully hiking off trail for this trip will open up a bunch of new opportunities for us as we plan for more trips in the future. 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana photography Wyoming https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/9/flat-rock-lake Sun, 08 Sep 2024 02:12:47 GMT
Yellowstone: Sportsman Lake and Electric Pass https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/8/Sportsman Hey everyone!

We finally made it up to Sportsman Lake and Electric Pass after years of talking about it. During our initial planning, we had always looked at going in from the Glen Creek Trailhead, but after asking around and looking at the maps, we decided that going in from Highway 191 made more sense. It's a mile or two shorter, plus you don't have to hike over the pass both ways.

After we ate second breakfast in West Yellowstone, we drove up to the Fawn Pass Trailhead. While putting the finishing touches on packing we saw another group getting ready to hike in for the night with a few llamas. Since Corrie used to pack llamas in Colorado, I had to make sure and get a photo for her.

Fan Creek Trail: Llama outfitters crossing the Gallatin RiverFan Creek Trail: Llama outfitters crossing the Gallatin RiverNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Not too far from the road, we arrived at our junction. Apparently we weren't the only "hikers" in the area. It rained the night before so there were lots of tracks on the trail, including a sow grizzly and her cub.

Fan Creek Trail: hikers heading eastFan Creek Trail: hikers heading eastNPS / Jacob W. Frank Fan Creek Trail: grizzly tracks in the mud (2)Fan Creek Trail: grizzly tracks in the mud (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Eventually, we arrived at our first creek crossing. It didn't look very deep so I tried to rock hop across, unsuccessfully. That meant I was hiking with wet feet the rest of the day. This was also the first big trip for us after being sick from COVID for 2 months, so my feet weren't tough yet. Perfect recipe for blisters...

Fan Creek Trail: hikers at the Fan Creek crossingFan Creek Trail: hikers at the Fan Creek crossingNPS / Jacob W. Frank Fan Creek Trail: meadow viewsFan Creek Trail: meadow viewsNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The trail takes you along Fan Creek the entire way up. There are plenty of places to filter water, and the views of the meandering creek are great.

Fan Creek Trail: Fan Creek oxbowsFan Creek Trail: Fan Creek oxbowsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Fan Creek Trail: Fan Creek oxbows (2)Fan Creek Trail: Fan Creek oxbows (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Fan Creek Trail: views of Fan CreekFan Creek Trail: views of Fan CreekNPS / Jacob W. Frank Fan Creek Trail: Hikers cross a Fan Creek tributaryFan Creek Trail: Hikers cross a Fan Creek tributaryNPS / Jacob W. Frank

You're slowly gaining elevation the entire way up, but the last couple miles of the trail there's a bit of a climb. Eventually, you're looking down on the bowl where Sportsman Lake sits. After a few switchbacks and a short trail through the trees, you arrive at the lake with great views of Electric Peak in the distance.

View of Mulherun Creek drainageView of Mulherun Creek drainageNPS / Jacob W. Frank Sportsman Lake: last light on Electric PeakSportsman Lake: last light on Electric PeakNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The following morning it was a beautiful sunrise. After breakfast, we planned to hike to Electric Pass and back. It's only about three miles to the top, but you gain around 2,500 feet.

Fireweed blooming near Sportsman LakeFireweed blooming near Sportsman LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank

So we climbed and climbed.

Electric Pass Trail: hiker climbing south through treelineElectric Pass Trail: hiker climbing south through treelineNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: hiker switchbacks through treelineElectric Pass Trail: hiker switchbacks through treelineNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: views to the north, north side of the passElectric Pass Trail: views to the north, north side of the passNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: views of Electric Peak, north of the passElectric Pass Trail: views of Electric Peak, north of the passNPS / Jacob W. Frank

And climbed a bit more.

Electric Pass Trail: hiker on the ridgeElectric Pass Trail: hiker on the ridgeNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: views of the ridge to Electric PeakElectric Pass Trail: views of the ridge to Electric PeakNPS / Jacob W. Frank

At the pass, you have a great view in almost all directions. We topped out just over 10,000 feet.

Electric Pass Trail:Electric Pass Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail:Electric Pass Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Electric Peak is only another 1,000 feet higher than the pass, but it's another three miles (six total) and the route goes down and up a few times before you reach the summit. 

Electric Pass Trail: Views of Electric Peak from the passElectric Pass Trail: Views of Electric Peak from the passNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: Views of the pass to the westElectric Pass Trail: Views of the pass to the westNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail:Electric Pass Trail:NPS / Jacob W. Frank

If we were to come back here and weren't coming off a long illness, it could be fun to attempt a summit from this route.

Electric Pass Trail: hiker on the ridge (2)Electric Pass Trail: hiker on the ridge (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

But it wasn't in the cards for this trip, so we headed back down towards the lake.

Electric Pass Trail: hiker on the ridge headed westElectric Pass Trail: hiker on the ridge headed westNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: views of Sportsman Lake from the TrailElectric Pass Trail: views of Sportsman Lake from the TrailNPS / Jacob W. Frank Electric Pass Trail: hiker headed back below treelineElectric Pass Trail: hiker headed back below treelineNPS / Jacob W. Frank

That night we were greeted to one of the best sunsets on the year, and without any wind there was a great reflection in the lake.

Sportsman Lake: sunset from shorlineSportsman Lake: sunset from shorlineNPS / Jacob W. Frank Sportsman Lake: fallen tree sunsetSportsman Lake: fallen tree sunsetNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The following morning we woke up early to beat the heat. We saw a few critters including marmots and whitetail deer.

Marmot sunning on a fence post (2)Marmot sunning on a fence post (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Hoodoos above Sportsman LakeHoodoos above Sportsman LakeNPS / Jacob W. Frank Sportsman Lake Trail: headed west from patrol cabinSportsman Lake Trail: headed west from patrol cabinNPS / Jacob W. Frank
Sportsman Lake Trail: headed west towards passSportsman Lake Trail: headed west towards passNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Trip details: In total, we hiked just shy of 30 miles with 5,000 ft elevation gain. The majority of the trail is well graded so you don't notice the elevation, except from the lake to the pass. You definitely notice that. We didn't see anyone once we got past mile 7ish, which meant that we had the entire lake to ourselves and didn't see another person for almost two days. Overall great trip and I highly recommend the area. Bring a rod if you like to fish!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Montana photography Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/8/Sportsman Sat, 24 Aug 2024 16:54:00 GMT
Peru: Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/6/Inca-Trail After months of planning and nearly 24 hours of traveling, we landed in Cusco. Corrie and I were the last of our group of six to arrive. Our Apumayo guide, Yamil, and driver, Diego, were waiting for us at the airport with a sign with my name on it, a first for me.

At the hotel we met up with the rest of our group and went out for an early lunch. After lunch we took naps and met up with Yamil for a tour of historic Cusco. One of the first things we learned about the city and the culture is that Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire. They were amazing planners and engineers. Their architecture and system of trails is a testament to that.

The Spanish also built directly on top of the Inca buildings. Usually they built their churches on the most important Inca sites.

The following morning we visited our first Inca site, Sacsayhuamán. Located on a steep hill that overlooks the city, the fortified complex has a wide view of the valley to the southeast. Archeological studies of surface collections of pottery at Sacsayhuamán indicate that the earliest occupation of the hilltop dates to about 900 CE.

From there we drove to the Inca complex at Písac. Similar to Sacsayhuamán, the complex here is located on a mountain above the town. The big difference here, this is the first site that we saw with extensive terraces.

This site was also the first with active fountains. The engineers built these fountains at the base of the structure. The idea was that it was a place to clean before they entered these holy sites. Directly behind the fountains we saw a bunch of holes in the rock. We were told these were tombs for important people, and the holes were from grave robbers in more recent history.

After leaving Pisác, we made our way to Ollantaytambo. We had to take the long way around to get to our hotel because there was a festival going on. There were bull fights and parades in the town square. One thing is for sure, Peruvians know how to throw a festival. They have some of the coolest clothes.

After the festival, we walked around the town before grabbing dinner and heading back to our hotel.

The following morning was a beautiful sunrise. After breakfast the clouds had burned off and we had our first view of the mountains.

We packed up our bags and headed to explore the Inca site at Ollantaytambo. One of the highlights of this site is that during the Spanish conquest of Peru, it served as a temporary capital for Manco Inca, leader of the native resistance against the conquistadors. He fortified the town and its approaches in the direction of the former Inca capital of Cusco, which had fallen under Spanish domination.

This site also showcases more of the exceptional engineering skills of the Inca. The rocks used to build this site were quarried from about a mile away, on the opposite side of the valley, halfway up the mountain. They had to move them down the mountain, across the river, and back up the other side of the valley, where they were expertly shaped, chiseled, and polished. In some of the larger rocks, they carved indentations to place a metal piece to hold the rocks together as they were stacked, similar to a bowtie inlay in wood working.

Now that we were primed with all our Inca knowledge, we were ready to start the trail. We handed our extra gear over to the porters and headed to the trailhead.

Inca Trail Day 1: KM 82 to Huayllabamba,  ~7 miles, +1,700/ -750’

About halfway through the day's hike, we came across the first of the many sites we would see along the route to Machu Picchu, Patallacta. This site was burned by Manco Inca Yupanqui, who destroyed a number of settlements along the Inca road system during his retreat from Cusco in 1536 to discourage Spanish pursuit. In part due to these efforts, the Spanish never discovered the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or any of its settlements.

Yamil mentioned that the route we were hiking was not the shortest, or easiest route to Machu Picchu. It was a route through the mountains that was designed for royals as a route to take as a pilgrimage. The route was designed to be close to the heavens, as it was considered holy to be near the gods.

As we slowly climbed out of the valley, we started getting some spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

At camp we had dinner and watched the sunset, followed shortly after by a nearly full moon set over the ridge.

Inca Trail Day 2: Huayllabamba to Pacamayo, ~5 miles, +4,200/-2,100’

The following day was the most difficult of the entire hike. We had to climb out of the valley and over Dead Woman Pass. We had a big breakfast and set off for the day. Everyone was feeling good, but Corrie mentioned that her breakfast wasn't sitting well with her. We were worried she may have eaten some food with gluten, but it turns out that she caught a stomach bug. About a third of the way up the pass, she had to pull over and throw up in the bushes. She said she felt much better, but I still took the gear from her pack and we continued up the trail.

We took our time, stopped frequently, but still made good time. I can't believe how it must have felt doing that section with a stomach bug. Corrie's a beast.

At the pass we hung out and had snacks and watched the clouds blow over the mountains.

After the steep climb up, the trail ahead looked like a steep climb down to camp.

On the way down, looking back, you could see the profile of the "dead woman," the namesake feature for the pass. 

We went down...

And down...

And down some more.

We arrived at camp, had some freshly made popcorn, and grabbed one of the worst showers I've ever had. Not only was it ice cold, but when I turned it on it was a powerful stream of water that hit me right in the plums. It hurt, a lot.

Corrie still wasn't feeling well, so I went for a short walk to check out the area and look for birds. The clouds in the valley were blowing through and it was awesome to the see the peaks and ridges pop out from above.

Inca Trail Day 3: Pacamayo to Phuyupatamarca, ~5 miles +1,900/-1,700’

The following morning we woke up early and hit the trail to beat the heat. The trail from this point and beyond was the original trail and the actual stones laid by the Incas. Until this point, the trail was rehabilitated by the Peruvian government sometime in the 1940s. The trail and stonework is simply amazing. It's unbelievable where they were able to put the trail in some places they did and that it has withstood the test of time. In some places it's literally through a jungle. Without maintenance, the trail would become completely grown over in a year.

We grabbed second breakfast and enjoyed the views at the pass. 

We could see the Vilcabamba Mountains and the cloud forest below.

As we dropped off the ridge down into the forest we saw the only mammal of the trip, a little buck feeding in the bushes.

Just before lunch we arrived at Sayacmarca. At the base of the stairs to enter the site, there was another fountain for cleansing.

The cool thing about this site, is that it wasn't built near a spring. The engineers of this site built an intricate system of canals that ran along the ridge of the mountains to the site, and through the site.

As we explored the site, the clouds rolled in and obscured the surrounding mountains.

I also noticed some new interesting design features in this site, including water drains and some kind of rock rings. My guess is they were used to partition rooms with rope or something. 

From this site you could also look down valley to the next site we would visit, Qunchamarka.

Just beyond the site we stopped for lunch. After we were done eating I took a nap because I was starting to feel a little off. 

Along this section of the trail, Yamil pointed out the best examples of how the trail was designed for people to run it, even while going downhill. The small curves allowed someone to run while maintaining control, like making turns while skiing down a hill. The trail system and the Incas who used it, could run over the mountains between Cusco and the sea in a single day. This allowed the king in Cusco, or Sapa Inca, to eat fresh fish from the ocean, hundreds of miles away.

About an hour after lunch I could feel my stomach starting to turn a little. I didn't think much of it at first, but eventually I realized that I needed to hit the restroom ASAP. The last mile before camp, I pulled ahead of the group and started a slow jog. I made it to the restroom with almost no time to spare. My stomach felt better for about 10 minutes, but then it got worse from there.

While resting at the top of the hill in Phuyupatamarca camp, we hung out at watched the clouds roll by. Eventually I had to head to the tent and lay down because my stomach was hurting so bad. Corrie gave me a couple Pepto pills to help, and 90 seconds later, just like her, I was puking my toenails off. 

Inca Trail Day 4: Phuyupatamarca to Machu Picchu, ~7 miles, +700/-4,700’

After a night of shivering and sweating, I woke up before sunrise and was greeted to one of the best views of the trip. The clouds had cleared and we were staring at the second highest mountain in the area, Salcantay. Apparently my "offering" to the gods in the bushes would provide us with great weather for the last day of the trip. 

At breakfast, the group showed me photos and videos from dinner the night before, including bananas foster. I picked the worst night to get sick, but I suppose it was better than having to hike Dead Woman Pass, like Corrie.

This would also be the last time that we would see our support team. So we grabbed a photo in front of Salcantay. While we were setting up for the group photo, all the guys were pulling out their cell phones and taking photos of the mountain. When the local guys are taking photos, you know that you're witnessing something awesome.

This trip wouldn't have been what it was without our support team. Our chef Daniel, prepared an amazing menu and the rest of the team carried all our food and equipment over some serious terrain. It was awesome to see these guys in action. Our two veteran porters, Mario and Bautista, have been hiking this trail for over three decades. We can't say enough great things about them.

From our group picture spot we could also see Intipata below us, a site that we would be walking through later in the day. 

We would be dropping nearly a vertical mile in total today, and as soon as we left camp we started going down.

And down...

And down...

And down..

We eventually made it to Intipata. This is the first place where I saw a good example of the stairs in the terraces up close. They were long flat rocks built into the walls that protruded out.

Did I mention we hiked down?

Shortly after Intipata, we arrived at Wiñya Wayna. This was the first site that I made the realization that most of these places had great views. Yamil pointed out to us that the Incas worshipped the mountains. The snow capped peaks were called apus. So, if we were living during the time of the Incas, we would not be too concerned about the beauty of the buildings, but rather the buildings were built in such a way and in such a location that allowed you to take in the beautiful views of the mountains and Mother Earth, or pachamama.

Literally after each site, I left saying, "This was my new favorite site." And after Wiñya Wayna, there was only one left to see...

We climbed up the steepest steps of the trail, called the "Monkey Steps."

And followed the trail a short while until we reached the Sun Gate.

It was still far away, but after four days of hiking we had our first views of Machu Picchu.

As we continued along the trail, the anticipation was building and I caught a second wind. We walked past more sites along the way including an altar. On the winter solstice, this altar is the first place where the sun hits during sunrise.

Just as we arrived the light started to get nice and the clouds started building. 

After four days of seeing minimal people on the trail, arriving at Machu Picchu was a bit overwhelming, but we were PUMPED to be there.

As we stood there, the light kept changing as the clouds moved over the mountains. After we took a few photos, we headed to the bus stop to take a ride down to Aguas Calientes and check into our hotel.

Day 5: Exploring Machu Picchu

The following morning, we woke up early and caught a bus back to Machu Picchu to explore the complex. After five days of exploring Inca sites, this place was amazing and lived up to all the hype. The architecture was spectacular, and the terraforming that took place that allowed them to build in such a precarious place was astounding.

While the granite used to build the site was quarried from a location adjacent to the site, all of the dirt and sand that was used to fill in the terraces was hauled up from the river. The more we learned, the more incomprehensible it all became.

After exploring the site for a few hours, we took the bus back to town, grabbed lunch and hit the train station back to Ollantaytambo.

Diego picked us up at the station and we drove back to Cusco. We ordered takeout and hung out in the courtyard of the hotel the last night, drank wine, and recapped the highs and lows from the last five days of the trip. Overall it was one of the best trips I've ever done, even with the puking and nearly shitting myself.

In addition to all the sites, we saw a bunch of beautiful birds and wildflowers.

If you'd like to do a trip like this, you need to book a guide and secure your permits in October. I'd absolutely recommend Yamil and Apumayo!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Peru photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/6/Inca-Trail Sat, 29 Jun 2024 23:09:08 GMT
Custer Gallatin: Porcupine Cabin https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/3/porcupine-cabin This winter has been fairly lackluster as far as snow goes. Before this trip we only skied four times, compared to last year we had nearly three weeks by now. We were pumped to get some fresh snow earlier in the week, and the weekend was calling for an even bigger storm.

This is our first winter cabin trip on the year. We had another one planned a couple weekend ago but I got sick and had to cancel. This is the third of the three cabins in the area, we skied to the other two, Crandall Creek Cabin and Ibex Cabin, last winter. 

We parked at the winter trailhead and set off to ski the short two miles into the cabin. It was a sunny. bluebird afternoon.

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We arrived at the cabin late afternoon and got a fire going to warm up the cabin. We made dinner and drinks and then waited for the sunset, which turned out to be pretty nice.

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The next day we ate some homemade coffee cake for first breakfast and washed it down with a few cups of coffee. The weather hadn't rolled in yet, so we decided to try to get a short ski in for the day. Since we were on the front end of the storm, the temps were too warm for our skis, so we ditched them and headed into the forest for a hike instead.

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We got back to the cabin in time for lunch and DRT (designated rest time). After our nap, we woke up to a HUGE snowstorm. We made some hot apple cider and watched the storm blow out the window.

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Before dinner we got a break in the storm, but we were surrounded by clouds. It was like being in a giant white bubble. Not long after the wind and snow picked back up, so we spent the rest of the evening in the cabin relaxing.

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The next morning, we woke up to 8" of powder and fog, but after an hour or so it started to burn off. We skied over to the woodshed to chop and haul wood.

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Once we cleaned up and restocked the cabin with wood, we grabbed a group photo before skiing back to the trailhead.

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The stoke was high with the downhill and fresh powder.

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Trip notes: Porcupine Cabin is HUGE and sleeps eight people. Most of the cabins we visit are a single room, but this one has two bedrooms in addition to the living space. The snowpack and weather kept us from exploring too far from the cabin on our layover day, so it would be nice to go back another year with better conditions. Overall it was a great trip and I'd definitely recommend it!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana photography ski https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/3/porcupine-cabin Wed, 06 Mar 2024 00:31:25 GMT
Custer Gallatin: Star Lake and Lulu Pass https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/2/star-lake-lulu-pass Some friends from Florida visited this past weekend and I finally checked off a to-do that been on my list for a long time. Snowmobile up into the Beartooth Mountains. We headed out to Cooke City early morning and saw the typical winter sights: bison, moose, and a few deer and elk. We arrived in Cooke City suited up, and headed up the Lulu Pass Trail. Unfortunately, this winter has been the warmest and driest in decades, so the snowpack was extremely low at lower elevations. That meant that we needed to stop often and cool the sleds. Eventually we made it to Mud Lake where there was deeper snow and it was pretty much game on for the remainder of the day. 20240202-jwf-069620240202-jwf-0696NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20240202-jwf-073820240202-jwf-0738NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20240202-jwf-074620240202-jwf-0746NPS / Jacob W. Frank

From Mud Lake we continued up to Round Lake, which has great views of Sheep Mountain. We took the opportunity to finally open up the throttle a bit, to see what these new sleds can do. They are REAL fast.

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Once we got a feel for the sleds our guide, Cole, took us up the Goose Lake Jeep Trail where we had some great views of the Spires, the same mountain we saw this past summer backpacking to Aero Lakes.

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Eventually we made it to Long Lake, which had some smaller hills we were able to climb.

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I told Cole I'd be happy to take some photos of him if we wanted to tear it up. So he did.

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The views weren't too shabby either.

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From there we headed up to Star Lake at the edge of the Wilderness Boundary where we were able to get in some first tracks.

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Even though snow levels were significantly lower than normal, we were still able to explore a lot of the terrain up there no issues.

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After everyone getting stuck multiple times, wallowing in powder, and digging ourselves out, we figured it was time to head back to town. Instead of backtracking, we headed northwest from Long Lake around Sheep Mountain to hook up with the Lulu Pass Trail again. The views along the backside of Sheep Mountain were expansive.

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Once we made it to Lulu Pass it was smooth sailing the rest of the way home. Back in town we hit up the Miners Saloon for a celebratory pint before we headed back home.

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Trip notes: It's not cheap to rent sleds and hire a guide. Especially when you compare it to backpacking. But it was worth it. You work a lot harder than you'd think, especially if you're a new rider. Even if you don't fall, which you most likely will, you have to jump around on the sled and really use your body to stay upright. When you do fall, you're trying to dig your sled out in waist-deep powder for at least a few minutes, sometimes longer. We rented through Beartooth Mountain Adventures and I'd definitely recommend them. Our guide Cole was great and was worth his weight in gold. Not only did he take us where we needed to go, but we'd still be stuck up there without him. Definitely a team sport.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana snowmobiling https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/2/star-lake-lulu-pass Sun, 11 Feb 2024 21:15:55 GMT
Yellowstone: South Boundary Trail to Thorofare Valley https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/9/thorofare We just got back from our 6-day, 78-mile trip into Yellowstone's Thorofare. It's touted as the most remote location in the contiguous 48 states. There are three trails that lead you to the area starting in the park, and the shortest trail is about 32 miles one way. This is the longest trip, both in duration and length that I have ever done. 

After years of talking about it, and then six months of planning it, the week finally arrived. The weather looked clear but windy for the first few days, then starting to deteriorate after that. Our plan was to catch a shuttle across the lake to Terrace Point, then hike south into the Thorofare and back to our car at the South Entrance via the South Boundary Trail. Here's how it went.

Day 1: 12.5 miles, 1,415 ft elevation gain

We loaded up our gear on the boat and set off from Bridge Bay Marina. After about 30 min on the water, that "clear but windy" weather made it clear to us that we weren't getting across the lake today. So after turning around we debated our options back on shore. We decided that we wanted to take shuttles/hitchhiking out of the equation, so we changed our itinerary and would hike in and out via the South Boundary Trail. That means our 55-mile trip would now be closer to 80.

By the time we made it back to the South Entrance and set off, it was 1pm. We forded a clear Snake River and hiked through a mostly nondescript landscape for the first 6 miles. Eventually we reached an open meadow where we met up with the Snake River again and Snake Hot Springs.

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Eventually we came across our second and last river crossing for the day. We took a break along the river before hiking the final two miles to our camp.

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Day 2: 12.25 miles, 3,001 ft elevation gain

With our late arrival in camp the night before, we didn't get hiking until about 9am. Today was supposed to be the most challenging day of the trip. The hike over Big Game Ridge takes you in and out of the park and offers views all directions when you're over 10,000 ft elevation. The weather was perfect, not a cloud in the sky, which also meant that we were exposed. 
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Eventually we gained enough elevation where we could see the Tetons to the south starting to rise up from the hills.

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Once we gained the ridge, the views of the Grand and the entire Teton Range were spectacular.

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We continued along the ridge with more spectacular views to the north and east, including Heart and Yellowstone lakes, the Absaroka Range, and even Electric Peak.

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Just before we started to descend, we decided to grab lunch with a good view.

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Eventually we made it off Big Game Ridge and were back to another crossing of the Snake River, just before we reached our spot for the night.

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Day 3: 14.25 miles, 2,202 ft elevation gain

I woke up with a sore hip flexor, which isn't uncommon for me when backpacking. When we set off it took a little adjusting to get my pack in a comfortable spot. After walking for about 5 minutes, my hip/leg muscles were tighter than I thought. I stretched for 10 minutes, and I realized that my hip felt fine as long as I didn't have my pack's hip belt on tight. It was great I figured that out, but not great to realize that I was going to have to hike the day with a pack without using my hip belt.

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We gained our way through the woods and eventually to Mariposa Lake.

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As we continued east, we started to descend along Lynx Creek. There were many small water and bog crossings. In the mud we started seeing lots of bear tracks, both big and small, black and grizzly. At one point along the trail while making noise, we both were hit with the smell of a rotting carcass. We both immediately picked up the pace until we were out of the area and could no longer see any tracks. (More on this during the following day)

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After about mile nine we could finally see the mountains to the east of the Thorofare Valley. 

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At mile 10 we made our way to the valley floor and stopped to rest before we had to ford the Yellowstone.

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After scouting a few options, we found a good spot to ford that was only over our knees.

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After a few more miles we finally made it to our destination, the Thorofare Ranger Station. We had seen photos of it, but it was pretty cool to see in person. We also explored the barn and the most remote outhouse. 

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We hung out on the porch, reading the visitor log of those who made the trek before us, waiting for the sun to set.

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Day 4: 14.25 miles, 2,340 ft elevation gain

Now that we had hike the 39 miles to get out here, we were only half way. In our initial plan we were supposed to have a layover day in the Thorofare, but with the new itinerary we would be hiking every day. So we woke up early so we could take in the sunrise before starting our 14 mile day. This morning I noticed that in addition to my hip, my achilles was swollen and it was hard to get my boot on. No biggie, we only had 39 miles to go. Corrie offered to take extra weight and put me on the "mountain skittles" (ibuprofen) regimen to keep the swelling down.

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We hiked back across the valley taking in the views, which were spectacular.

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On our way back across the Yellowstone, the wind had died down from the previous afternoon so much that we were greeted to a nice reflection.

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I mentioned earlier that the previous day we had hiked near a carcass on the trail. On our way back through we were expecting to come across the same smell but didn't. So our guess is that it wasn't a carcass, but more likely a bear that we hiked past. Bears, especially grizzlies, can be very smelly. Since we were seeing lots of tracks and scat in the area where the smell was, and there was no smell the following day, we think there was probably a bear in the area. Eventually we made the climb back out of Lynx Creek to our camp, where we could see tomorrow's objective, Big Game Ridge, rising above the trees in front of us.

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Day 5: 12.25 miles, 2,438 ft elevation gain

We had another early morning and took in the sunrise again. Achilles still swollen, we set out.

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We crossed back over the Snake River and made our way up Big Game Ridge as the clouds slowly started to build.

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This time our views at the top were obscured from a low cloud ceiling. We could see Yellowstone Lake but not the Teton Range. Just as we were finished eating lunch, we heard our first roll of thunder. We packed up and kept heading west.

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Just as we got off the ridge the rain started...and it didn't really stop until we made it back to the car the following day.

Day 6: 12.5 miles, 698 ft elevation gain

This day I only took one photo since it was raining all day. But as we made it back to Snake Hot Springs, it was too pretty to not take my camera out. The cold temps had caused the hot spring to steam.

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The last six miles of the trip was through a flooded trail and deep mud. We called it the "swamp of sorrow" and occasionally felt the need to yell "Artax!!!" After getting home and googling it, I realize that it's actually the "swamp of sadness." When we finally made it to the final crossing of the Snake, we didn't even bother changing shoes. We were covered in mud up to our knees, so we took the opportunity to use the crossing to wash all the mud off.

The trip was a lot of type-2 fun, but now that we are on the couch eating homemade muffins and looking at photos, we can look back on the tip and say it was a good time!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/9/thorofare Fri, 08 Sep 2023 19:10:15 GMT
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Aero Lakes https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/8/aero-lakes Aero Lakes has been on our list since 2018. For whatever reason, it didn’t line up for us to put on the books until last year, 2022. In June there was the flood and access was difficult so we pushed it to this summer. Then the weekend we were supposed to do it, it was like 80% chance of rain and thunderstorms so we pushed it back one final time. 

We started from the Lady of the Lakes upper TH and set off for a camp spot at Upper Aero Lake. The trail was mostly through the forest with occasional views along the Zimmer River.

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Once we crossed the river, the trail gains about 1,000 feet in a mile as you approach Lower Aero Lake.

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Near the foot of the lake, the trail turns into more of a route as you navigate around the lake.

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Our plan was to camp at the upper lake, but we were starting to get tired and it was nearing dinner time. So once we made it to the head of the lower lake, we decided to see if we could find a nice camp spot, which we did. The spot came with views of two waterfalls and a reflection pond with a backdrop of Mount Villard.

Once the tent was up, we cracked our beers and went for a swim, then made dinner as the sun dipped below the horizon.

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The next morning I woke up to some spectacular scenery. The wind had died down and the sun was just starting to come up.

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After taking in the sunrise, we ate breakfast and headed out for our layover day. The plan was to head to the upper lake, and both saddles between Rough and Sky Top lakes.

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Once we made it to the pass above Sky Top Lakes, we decided to eat lunch and take in the views of Montana’s tallest mountain, Granite Peak. The wind picked up and the clouds started to build, so we decided to head back to camp.

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The hike out was a little windy, but our packs were lighter and the views were incredible with blue skies.

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We really enjoyed this area and it seems that there is a ton to explore. We were happy with our camp spot and we could stay in the same location for a whole week and do different day hikes each day. Here is the profile from the trip in one direction to our highest point.

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Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed the photos!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/8/aero-lakes Fri, 18 Aug 2023 17:04:58 GMT
Yellowstone: Sky Rim https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/8/sky-rim-trail Backpacking trip #2 of 2023 is complete! The Sky Rim Trail has been on our list since 2018. We had plans in place in 2019, but the week we were supposed to go I was injured and needed surgery. So we were excited when we saw that the weather was predicting clear skies for the weekend. We started our big day early in the morning, and decided to do the loop counter clockwise. We were on the fence about which way to go, but we decided to do the uphill through the trees in the coolest part of the day. We made our way through the fields of delphinium, filtered water, and filled up our packs because the Sky Rim is without water. With our packs full of water, we hiked through the subalpine forest and the hillsides of heartleaf arnica until we reached the tundra of the alpine.

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The Black Butte Trail eventually hooks up with the Sky Rim Trail, where we would be on the boundary of Yellowstone and Custer Gallatin National Forest for the next 5+ miles. We decided to hike the ridge over to Wickiup (or Bighorn Peak depending on which map you look at) to take in the views and drink our summit sodas at just a bit under 10K ft. The flanks of the peak offer dramatic views with interesting geology. This area of the park and forest is also where many petrified trees are found. From the peak we were able to check out views into Paradise Valley and Gallatin River Canyon. 

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After our snacks and refreshments, we headed back to the Black Butte Trail junction to continue the hike. We assumed that once you gained all of the elevation by hiking in the direction we did, that the remaining portion of the trail would be relatively downhill and/or flat. That assumption was a bad one! There was a significant amount of downhill, but it was immediately followed by more uphill. With all the ups and downs, we climbed nearly a vertical mile in addition to the huge distance we traveled.

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In between the steep ups and downs, there was the occasional flat sections of trail with expansive views off the trail in both directions.

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The day was hot and the trail is exposed, so we decided to take a break in the shade and grab some snacks. As we ate we realized that we sat in the middle of an archaeological site full of lithic scatter. It's likely that the same reason we rested here, is the same reason that American Indians did also: shelter from the wind and sun and spectacular views in all directions. It appears they sat here crafting their stone tools, presumably watching for wildlife.

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About the midway on the trail between the Daly Creek and Black Butte, directly above Tom Miner Basin, we started hiking my favorite section of the trail. The ridge walk was relatively flat and the views are spectacular.

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As the day went on we started running low on water and regulating our temps were getting challenging without any shade. So when we found a small patch of snow we took full advantage to cool off before continuing along.

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Eventually we came across the Daly Creek Trail junction and started our descent. This is also about the time that we ran out of water.

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Eventually we made it back to the creek where we filtered water and cooled off in the shade. The bugs were fierce, and we weren't the only ones who thought hanging by the water was a good idea on this hot day.

20230722-jwf-440320230722-jwf-4403NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20230721-jwf-380420230721-jwf-3804NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Here is the profile of the hike. It was a haul, but I think it would be much more enjoyable if we did it again in the fall when the temps are cooler and the bugs are gone. Overall, the Sky Rim is probably my favorite trail in Yellowstone to date. Our to-do list of trails is still long, but if you're into mountains and big views, I would highly recommend this trail. Make sure to bring a filter and lots of bottles to hold water. Thanks for reading, cheers!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Montana Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/8/sky-rim-trail Sat, 05 Aug 2023 18:08:19 GMT
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Elbow Lake https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/7/elbow-lake-MT We kicked off our backcountry season this year (July 7-9) with a new spot for us, Elbow Lake. Our friends who had been before all had great things to say. Here are my favorite photos from the trip, enjoy!

We started off early to beat the heat since it was going to be uphill the entire 8 miles to the lake. There was plenty of water for the dogs along the way which was great.

20230707-jwf-007820230707-jwf-0078NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20230707-jwf-007320230707-jwf-0073NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once we started to climb out of the forest, the views of the valley keep getting better and better. The wildflowers were great, but I think we missed the peak of the balsam root by a few days.

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With breaks and lunch, it took us about 6 hours to climb the 3,400 ft and 8 miles with full packs. When we arrived, we were the only people at the lake. We picked a spot to throw up our tents, made dinner, and watched the sunset while enjoying hot apple cider and bourbon.

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The following morning we woke up at sunrise to a completely still lake. We made coffee and breakfast along the shore and watched the light slowly creep down the face of the giant granite walls. There are a few lakes in the basins above Elbow Lake, and our plan for our layover day was to explore the basin to the east of Cowen.

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We started to pick our way up through the boulders and along the creek between the two lakes.

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After taking in the views along the upper lake, we decided to hike up to the ridge for our turnaround spot.

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It was a spectacular day in the mountains. The weather held out all day and we were able to swim back at Elbow Lake before the sun dipped behind the ridge. Around that same time another group of friends showed up in time to eat dinner with us. At sunset we started a fire and passed around the bourbon until it was gone. A great end to an even better day.

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The next morning we were treated to another great sunrise. We ate breakfast while our gear dried out in the morning sun. Eventually we packed up and headed back to the car.

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Overall we had a blast, and it's likely that this will turn into a yearly visit. There are a ton of areas to explore above the lake, so each visit can be a little different. I think a push for the Cowen summit is also likely in the future. Here's the profile of our trip including the layover day, from the trailhead to the highest point we reached. 

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Thanks for dropping in, Cheers!

Jake

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/7/elbow-lake-MT Sat, 29 Jul 2023 13:42:24 GMT
Lava Beds and Tule Lake National Parks https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/7/Lava-Beds-Tule-Lake After our visit to Oregon Caves and Redwoods, Corrie and I headed to Lava Beds and Tule Lake. It was our first visit to these parks as well.

Lava Beds National Monument

We arrived just in time to grab one of the last remaining campsites. We shared it with a nesting Bullock's oriole pair and a few other new birds for us. After dinner we went out for sunset. We had beautiful views of Mount Shasta and learned about the Modoc Indians of the area.

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The next morning, I woke up early with the sunrise and went for a little walk from the campground. We made coffee and we set out early to hike to the off-trail caves. We explored the lava tubes and pictographs, found new birds, and explored our favorite cave of the park, Golden Dome. It has a bacteria that shines gold with a headlamp. We spent the heat of the day underground until our tent received shade from the nearby tree in our camp spot.

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Back at camp we took naps, made dinner, and set out again for sunset. This time we planned to hit nearby wildlife refuges for birding and also catch the sunset at Petroglyph Point. The Tule Lake area used to be completely underwater and was drained for farming. This rock was once surrounded by water and Modoc Indians would float out to it and leave their mark. It's one of the highest concentration of petroglyphs in the US. The refuges are now in place to make up for the lost aquatic habitat lost when the lake was drained. On the way out we came across a rattlesnake in the road, saw tons of nighthawks, and had it essentially all to ourselves. We were able to stop in the road for photos whenever we saw a bird or other wildlife.

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Tule Lake National Monument

Before heading back to the airport, we took a tour at the new Tule Lake National Monument. They have a brand new visitor center that gives tours of the only building left of the Tule Lake Segregation Center, the prison. We were both fairly unfamiliar with the story of the relocation centers, and the tour did a great job of exposing us to another harrowing story of the history of America.

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I enjoyed visiting all the parks, but I have to say that Lava Beds and Tule Lake were the standouts for their natural and cultural resources, respectively. Carlsbad Caverns really got me interested in cave parks, especially those with off-trail caves, and Tule Lake has such a powerful story.

If you made it this far, thanks for taking the time and I'll be sure to share more blogs this summer as we have some cool upcoming trips planned!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) California Lava Beds National Monument photography Tule Lake National Historic Site https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/7/Lava-Beds-Tule-Lake Sat, 01 Jul 2023 23:33:00 GMT
Oregon Caves and Redwoods National Parks https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/6/Oregon-Caves-Redwoods My wife and I recently visited Oregon Caves and Redwoods national parks for the first time. We flew into Medford, excited to leave the airport, shop, and immediately head to Oregon Caves to camp in their campground. When our bags didn't arrive, we called an audible and rented a hotel in town while we waited for our camping gear and clothes to arrive. Not gonna lie, showering and sleeping in a bed after a day of stressful traveling was welcome.

Oregon Caves National Monument

20230613-jwf-443620230613-jwf-4436NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We hit the road the following morning and stopped at the visitor center in Cave Junction so I could pick up a junior ranger booklet and map of the park. We tried to do some reading as we drove up to the park, but the road is scenic and winding. We arrived early for our cave tour, so we walked around and checkout out the exterior of their historic lodge, which was unfortunately closed for renovations.

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We made our way through the cave in about 90 minutes on a guided ranger tour. The cave is made of marble, apparently only one of three in the US. The other two caves are in Sequoia and Great Basin national parks. There are a few grand rooms, but a majority of the cave is tight quarters, and the secondary formations are not as intricate as other limestone caves like Carlsbad Caverns. We hiked a short trail to warm up after the cave tour and headed on to Redwoods. We would have stayed longer, but the off-trail cave tours had yet to start for the season. A reason to return!

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Once we got out of the cave we hike up to check out the view from the Cliff Trail.

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Redwoods National and State Parks

We camped in Jed Smith Campground for three nights. The first day we kayaked the Smith River where we saw a family of river otters eating a lamprey, plus lots of new birds for us, including a black-crowned night heron eating a salamander. Our goal was to kayak the river to the ocean, but as we neared the estuary, the tide started coming in and the wind started howling. If we stopped paddling full speed, we started moving upriver. We tried to get out of the wind on the other side of the river, but the waves were cresting over our bows, so we bailed back to the other side of the river and let the wind blow us on shore. We used our map to find an alternate take out and had the shuttle meet us there. Once we were out of the water, I was able to confirm that there was a hole in my boat, which was causing me to drag. Needless to say, we were excited to be out of the water after that adventure.

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Back on dry land we headed to the campground where the park was hosting a Tribal (Tolowa) event on the shore of the Smith River. They roasted salmon by fire on redwood spears and made sand bread in the pebbles heated from a fire. The Tribe was also shaping a kayak from a redwood log and teaching the public about the cultural significance. After a short speech and prayer from a Tribal leader, we all ate together on the shore of the Smith River. It was a pretty spectacular event.

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After the event we explored the groves, Stout and Titan. The Stout Grove is one of the most iconic groves, where Star Wars was filmed.

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The Titan Grove is accessed by a brand-new trail and boardwalk system.

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The Following day we headed south to hike the James Irvine / Fern Canyon / Gold Bluffs loop. The hike is about 12 miles and leads you through multiple ecosystems as you make your way through the forest to the coast and back. Near the coast is the popular Fern Canyon, which is basically the only place we encountered any people, other than a few groups hiking the whole trail with us.

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Our final morning, we got up early for sunrise because it was our only opportunity for tide pooling. We drove out and hiked down to Endert's Beach where we explored sea arches, sea stars, anemone, birds, and a dead seal being scavenged by a turkey vulture. This was my first time exploring tide pools, it was a lot of fun to try and find interesting shots while dodging the incoming tide.

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After the tide pools we headed back to camp to pack up and head to Lava Beds National Monument.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) California kayaking Oregon Oregon Caves National Monument photography Redwoods National and State Parks https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/6/Oregon-Caves-Redwoods Thu, 29 Jun 2023 22:00:00 GMT
Custer Gallatin: Ibex Cabin https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/3/ibex-cabin This trip to Ibex Cabin was our first to the cabin, but our third ski trip to a cabin in Custer Gallatin National Forest. We skied to Crandall Creek Cabin earlier in the winter and went to Trail Creek Cabin the previous winter. 

After the long drive to the trailhead, we got an even later start when our car got stuck in a snow bank. Fortunately, there were some locals who were sledding for the day and threw us the keys to their truck so we could use it to get ourselves out. "Just park it and put the keys in the center console." This is the kinda stuff why I love living out west. We threw a couple beers in the snow near their truck as a thanks before we set out on the six or so miles to the cabin. 

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The views were SPECTACULAR and since it was so late in the season, we had some great conditions to crust cruise. We stopped for lunch after a while, and eventually dropped down to the meadow where the cabin was located.

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We unloaded all of our supplies and relaxed for the evening. Since it was St. Patrick's Day weekend, we skied in a corned beef, some Guinness, and supplies to make green mimosas. We were pretty excited.

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That night I got up to hit the head and noticed that the Milky Way had just risen over the horizon. I didn't bring a tripod with me, but I was able to figure out how to stack a bunch of logs in a way that I could take a few snaps of the stars from the front porch.

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The next morning was another cold, bluebird day so we made coffee and breakfast to let it warm up a bit before we set out for the day to explore.

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There are a few hiking trails from the cabin so we picked one and headed out. Hiking trails aren't the best for skiing always, but we were able to make it work until we got a point where the trail was too steep to follow.

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We turned around, skied back to the cabin and decided to explore the trail on the ridge above the cabin. The views up there are pretty awesome. You can basically see all the way to the Beartooths.

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Back at the cabin, we hung out for the rest of the evening, relaxed, and played games. The next morning we had another great sunrise. We made breakfast and started packing.

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We chopped and hauled wood, did chores, and hit the trail back to the car. But not before we grabbed a group photo on the porch.

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The ski out was great. You have to do the initial climb out of the meadow, but once you're back on the ridge, it's mostly downhill. It was a fun, fast ski back to the car.

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Trip notes: This cabin was about the same size as Trail Creek Cabin, but with the best views of the cabins in the area that we had be to so far. We skied about 16 miles total, 12 of them being in and out from the cabin. I would definitely go back to this cabin again. We aren't big backcountry skiers, but we did see a lot of people in this area with snowmobiles. So if that's you're thing, I think this is a popular spot.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) cabin Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana ski https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/3/ibex-cabin Sat, 25 Mar 2023 19:25:00 GMT
Custer Gallatin: Crandall Creek Cabin https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/1/crandall-creek-cabin We just got back from our first cabin trip in the Crazy Mountains to Crandall Creek Cabin. We all skied to Trail Creek Cabin in Paradise Valley last winter, but this was the first trip to Crandall for all of us. It was a bittersweet trip because our friends were getting ready to move to Alaska, and this was our last trip together for the foreseeable future. We loaded up our pack with tons of food and alcohol, and started the six or so miles we had to ski into the cabin.

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The winter trail is an oversaw road that is well traveled by snowmobiles. This meant the ski was fairly fast without having to break trail.

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We learned that there is a pretty extensive road system to get to the cabin, which is probably pretty fun if you have a snowmobile to explore the area.

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After winding and climbing through the forest, we arrived at the cabin in an open meadow. We used to small cabins that sleep four people max, so when we opened this cabin we were pleasantly surprised at the size and cleanliness. 

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After unpacking we got a fire going to melt some water and make some drinks. One drink turned into two, and two into six. 

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The next morning we were all a little slow to stir, but we made coffee and breakfast and headed out to ski out the rest of the booze in our system.

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The roads around the cabin were great for skiing since they are better graded than most hiking trails. We founds some nice views of the cabin and surrounding mountains.

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It eventually started snowing on us, which made the skiing a little sticky. So we headed back to the cabin for some DRT (designated rest time). Once we all woke up from our naps, we spent the rest of the evening hanging out at relaxing.

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The following morning we woke up to some beautiful morning light. 

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We packed up the cabin, chopped wood, and grabbed our group photo before heading back to the cars.

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Since most of the ski was downhill back to the car, we made great time even though we made frequent stops to take in the morning views.

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Trip notes: Overall we skied just shy of 19 miles over the three days, with 12 of them being to and from the cabin. The cabin sleeps 6 people with three bunks, and there is a Hugh dining room table with plenty of space for everyone. This is the first of the three cabins in the area that we plan to visit and we would definitely come back here again. Maybe just drink less on day one.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) cabin Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana ski https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2023/1/crandall-creek-cabin Sat, 21 Jan 2023 20:25:00 GMT
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Lake Fork to Sundance Pass https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2022/9/sundance-pass Fall means it's time to explore the Beartooths! During last year's trip on "The Beaten Path," the forest ranger we met at Rainbow Lake recommended that we check out Sundance Pass. Our initial plan was to do a through hike starting at Lake Fork and coming out the West Fork, but after the floods in June, we decided to go in and out Lake Fork to avoid the extra 8 miles of road hiking. 

The road in Lamar Valley was also washed out, so we drove through Billings to get to the Trailhead. We spent the night in Red Lodge to get an early start, but also to financially support the town in our small way. On this trip it was myself, Corrie, Toklat, our friend Chris, and his girlfriend Brielle. This trip was her first backpacking experience! The first section of the trail was mostly nondescript, until we got closer to Broadwater Lake. We stopped for lunch and to take in the views.

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As we continued up the trail we crossed the Lake Fork before we started our ascent to September Morn Lake, where we planned to camp for the evening.

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After the steep climb we made it to the lake and found a nice spot on the east shore of the lake to pitch our tents. Once we were settled we grabbed our food and headed to the lake to watch the sunset, make dinner, and have some cocktails.

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That night I woke up to use the facilitrees, and noticed that the stars were out. I didn't think to bring my tripod on this trip, so I made do with a stack of rocks.

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The following morning we woke up with the sun to check out the views and make breakfast. The plan for the day was to hike to the pass and then see where to go from there. 

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Once we climbed out of the trees it was spectacular alpine scenery on a perfect bluebird day. Eventually the tundra was replaced with bare rock as the trail switchbacked its way to the pass.

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At the pass we stopped for snacks, looked at the map, and decided to hike north along the ridge towards Silver Run Peak.

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Occasionally we would walk to the edge to look into West Fork drainage. If it weren't for the flood and impacts to the trail, this would have been the route we would have taken. 

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As we got higher, we started to see familiar mountains, including features like the Bears Tooth. It's always fun exploring a new area but still recognizing features even though you're seeing them from a new vantage point.

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After boulder hopping our way up the ridge we found a great place to relax, crack our beers, and take in the views. We pulled out the map again and decided that instead of backtracking, we could probably make our way down the draining directly north of September Morn Lake to get back to our campsite. On the climb up we got a good look at the drainage and noticed that it was mostly tundra and "green means it goes."

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After some route finding and slow going we made it back to camp after a full day of exploring. And since most of the day was off trail, we were all ready to grab our camp chairs, jump in the lake, and relax for another sunset.

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The next day we packed up and hiked back out to the car. On our way out we did a little scouting of the next drainage over, with First and Second Rock lakes.

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Trip totals: We did about 24 miles with just under 6,000' of elevation in three days. It was definitely one of those trips that allows you to check one thing off your to-do list, but then you add three more. Highly recommended!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2022/9/sundance-pass Thu, 15 Sep 2022 02:58:00 GMT
Yellowstone: Fawn Pass https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2022/8/fawn-pass We had a long weekend open up last minute and wanted to head into the backcountry. The only hiking we had done in the Gallatin Range up to this point was Sepulcher, Electric Peak, and Beatty Gulch, so Fawn Pass area sounded like a cool new area to explore. We set off from the Glen Creek TH and walked past a single day hiker, the last person we would see in three days. It was VERY hot and exposed hiking into Gardners Hole, we had to take a beat once we hit the trees to cool off and refuel. Once in Gardners Hole it's a flat hike to hook up with Fawn creek. The hike from there is a slow and steady climb to the pass with beautiful views.

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The following day we decided to hike up to the pass and check out the views. There's a small pond at the top of the pass, where Fawn Creek originates. From there we followed the trail a little further until the views opened up to the west. We were overlooking the Big Game Pass Trail and the Upper Gallatin River drainage.

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After a nice lunch and rest at the pass, we turned back to head back to camp. We were a little past peak wildflowers, but there were still plenty of late-season blooms. 

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That night there was a HUGE storm that blew over Mammoth and glanced us, but we could hear the thunder roaring up the valley all night. The following day on the hike out, it was a little wet, which made it somewhat humid once the sun came out.

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We stopped for a snack in the trees in the same place we did on the way out. This time bull #24 walked pretty close to where we snacking to get some food of his own. On the hike out, he actually caught up to us and we had to move off the trail to give him space to pass. Side note: this is the dominant bull in Mammoth during the rut, and he showed up the following week to start the rut. Kinda cool to see him in his summer range.

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We made short work of the last part of the trail and were back at the car around lunch. 

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Trip notes: We hiked around 26 miles in 3 days with just shy of 3200' of elevation gain. With very few campsites, and the pass about 12 miles away, there's not a ton of people out there. The trailhead is close to the North Entrance too, which means the drive to the trailhead is only like 20 minutes. One of these days we will have to hike it through to 191.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2022/8/fawn-pass Sat, 20 Aug 2022 06:33:00 GMT
Custer Gallatin: Trail Creek Cabin https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2022/1/trail-creek-cabin This was our first trip to a cabin in Custer Gallatin National Forest and Toklat's first cabin trip. Normally each winter we like to plan a weekend down at Old Faithful with friends, but the cost of doing that has gotten more and more expensive in recent years. Corrie knew about these cabins and suggested this as a change of pace. You have to book the cabins like 6 months in advance, so by the time it rolled around we almost forget that we booked it. There are a few ways to reach with cabin, but we decided to go the short way which is a hiking trail. That doesn't always guarantee an easy ski, which it wasn't in places. Near the trailhead I actually took my skis off because it was steep, icy, and full of rocks. Once you get out from under the trees, the trail improved and not too much longer we arrived at the cabin.

20220115-jwf-055320220115-jwf-0553NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Since it was only a couple miles in, we decided to drop our packs and explore around the area. There seemed to be a few trails and roads to choose from, so we decided to head north west from the cabin on a trail, so that we could save the longer ski along the road for tomorrow. The trail climbed out of the forest and for a short while we had some great views back towards the Absarokas and Paradise Valley.

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The next morning we woke up, ate breakfast, and headed out to explore.

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This time we skied along the road to the northeast of the cabin. When you first leave the cabin there is a short descent before you steadily climb for a few miles.

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Once we got to what appeared to be the top, we decided to ski back to the cabin because our friends could only stay one night. Best thing about skiing uphill all day usually means that you have to ski back downhill. It was a lot of fun to see Toklat get after it.

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Back at the cabin we grabbed a group shot, and then hung out on the porch the rest of the afternoon having drinks in the sun.

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The next morning we enjoyed the peachy sunrise before taking care of cabin chores and then heading back to the trailhead.

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The trail was in a little better shape on the ski out since it was still early and we were able to crust cruise.

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Trip notes: This cabin was very similar to many of the other cabins that we have stayed. Small, one room, decent for two people and cramped for four. I also think the forest is planning some work on the cabin so they will be taking it offline for a bit. Hopefully once they are done with the rehab, the cabin will be in better shape than when we visited. It wasn't terrible, but it definitely needed some TLC. Overall fun trip any time you go to a cabin!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) cabin Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana ski https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2022/1/trail-creek-cabin Sat, 22 Jan 2022 20:25:00 GMT
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Clarks Fork to East Rosebud https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/9/beaten-path Note: We took this trip in 2021, the year before the flood, but I just got around to doing this writeup. Enjoy!

We moved to the area in November of 2016. Our first few summers were spent mostly hiking in Yellowstone. It's crazy that it took us FIVE summers to finally get into the Beartooths. We figured that we would start with a fan favorite, "The Beaten Path." It's aptly named for the high amount of traffic it receives. We planned to do the trip in four days, which meant that we would likely have a day head start on all the people doing it over the holiday weekend in three days. Our friend Chris joined us. This trip was the first overnight in the AB Wilderness for all of us. Also, we can't forget that this would be our new pup Toklat's first backcountry trip also.

We shuttled our cars to East Rosebud the night before and stayed in Red Lodge for the evening. When we woke up we drove over the Beartooth Highway to get to our trailhead, the Clark's Fork Picnic area. Once we made it, we packed up and hiked towards Kersey Lake. The trail was in great shape and the fall colors were looking nice.

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We stopped for lunch at the base of a large granite wall and found what appeared to be a scent tree for bears. We continued along the trail until we hooked up with Russell Creek and followed the trail to the lake, our stopping point for the evening.

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Once we made it to Russell Lake, we found a spot to pitch our tents, grabbed camp chairs, and headed to the lake to relax. We made dinner and drinks and took in a beautiful sunset over the lake.

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The next morning we woke up with the sun and set out early. Our final destination was Fossil Lake, and we read that it could be difficult to find a good camp spot if it was busy.

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This section of the trail led us above tree line and near a handful of lakes, including one of my favorites, Skull Lake.

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Eventually we made it to the pass, which meant that the majority of the climbing for the trip was done. We could see Fossil Lake in the distance, but still needed to hike a couple more miles to get to the area we planned to camp.

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Since we arrived early, we set up tents and decided to take a nap in the warm sun. After our naps we explored around the area a bit and looked for a good place to watch the sunset and have drinks.

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The next morning we woke up to a beautiful sunrise, my favorite moment of the trip. Watching a sunrise from high elevation is always beautiful, the light pops in a way that's hard to explain.

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Once we were all packed, we set out into the East Rosebud drainage. When we told some friends that we were doing this trip, they recommended that we do it from south to north for two reasons: 1) it's less elevation this direction, and 2) save the best views for last. That turned out to be solid advice.

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As we descended into East Rosebud we made it to the first big lake, Dewey, where we stopped for lunch. The views along the lake were spectacular. 

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We heard there was a cool waterfall, Inpasse Falls, but we didn't know how big it was supposed to be. So every little fall or cascade we saw, we debated if that was it or not. Eventually we made it to the actual falls, and we immediately knew that this was the correct falls. The trail takes you right to the brink of the falls where you can overlook Duggan Lake and the entire drainage. Even though we had just stopped not too long ago, we decided that this was well worth another stop. We took a few photos from the brink and then stopped for snacks at the lake below.

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The last section of trail between us and our destination of Rainbow Lake took us along Lake at Falls. From there we would descend the many switchbacks until we made it to the camping area for Rainbow Lake. 

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Now I fully realize that this was Labor Day weekend, but HOLY MOLY was this place crowded. Not exaggerating, there had to be at least 30 groups of people hiking around the lake ranging in size from 2-10 people. It was like spring break at some of the camps with coolers and people grilling out. The ranger working the site said that the site was so heavily used that they were starting to see coliform bacteria in water samples in Rainbow Lake. He actually recommended that we filter water from the inlet creek versus the lake. So it's safe to say that we were ok with getting out of there ASAP. The following morning we woke up early and hit the trail. Again, the views were spectacular and we could see why the trail was so popular.
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Eventually we made it past Rainbow Lake and were greeted to more views of the valley and Rimrock Lake below.

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Once we passed Rimrock Lake, the last stretch of the trail would descend through towering granite walls on both sides. 

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Eventually we would make it to the last lake along the trail, Elk, where we stopped for a brief bit to water the dog and take in the views.

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On the final stretch of the trip, we neared East Rosebud Lake. More granite, small waterfalls, and mountain vistas.

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When we made it to East Rosebud Lake it was early afternoon. We still needed to drive back around to the trailhead and pick up our shuttle vehicle so we didn't waste much time at the trailhead. Also, this area is a popular day hike trailhead so there were lots of people. Just another reason to boogie.

20210906-jwf-178220210906-jwf-1782NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Trip notes: In total we hiked just shy of 27 trail miles and climbed about 3,600'. As long as you plan to arrive early, Russel and Fossil lakes are both great camp spots. You'll need a bear can for Fossil since it's above tree line. If you're looking for a Wilderness experience, I would avoid Rainbow Lake if possible. There are a few spots along Rimrock Lake, but there are less of them. The trip was awesome, but since it's so busy and there are lots of cool places to explore in the Beartooths, this might be the only time we do it. Definitely worth a visit if you've never been.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/9/beaten-path Thu, 16 Sep 2021 02:58:00 GMT
Yellowstone and North Absaroka Wilderness: Sunlight Basin to Lamar Valley https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/8/sunlight-lamar We planned this trip for a couple years after hearing great things about the east side of the park and Hoodoo Basin. There's not a ton of alpine terrain in Yellowstone that's easily accessible, so I was excited at the prospect of exploring above tree line in the backcountry. We had a couple friends from Utah, Will and Susan, come up to join us for the trip.

We dropped a car at Lamar River TH and shuttled around to Sunlight Basin. We were able to get within a mile of the Wilderness boundary. There seemed to be a trail crew who had come through recently, but there must have been a recent wind storm after that effort because there were downed trees everywhere! It took us about three hours to go two miles. In places we would have to climb stacked jackstraw that would be 8-10' high with full packs. It was fun but challenging.

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Eventually we reached our Sunlight Creek crossing, the last water on the route for the day, so we stopped for lunch and filtered water before we started our climb to the park boundary.

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Once we climbed out of the trees, the views were spectacular. It was a little hazy that day from fires to the west of us, but it wasn't so bad that it totally obscured views or made it hard to breathe.

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At the boundary we decided to take a break and enjoy the views in all directions. 

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The next day our plan was to hike from the eastern boundary of the park to Miller Creek. This section would also take us through Hoodoo Basin, which is the area we were most excited to visit. The only issue was that there was a low cloud ceiling, and since we were at 10K feet elevation, we were hiking in the clouds.

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Even though we were in the alpine, it was still extremely slow going because the trail was only marked with cairns and blazes every so often. We tried a handful of strategies to navigate, including one person standing at the last known trail marker while the other three people wandered into the clouds to look for the next one. This did work, but since we had such a long day of travel, we ultimately decided to break out our GPS to get us through the clouds until the trail was more well worn again.

After a little while longer, hiking through trees and still more clouds, we decided to take a break in what appeared to be a small clearing. As we hydrated, the clouds parted slowly revealing that we were actually sitting in Hoodoo Basin. We decided to take advantage of this serendipitous moment and explore the area a little more closely.

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As we were getting ready to leave the clouds started rolling back in. As we hiked out of the basin the hoodoos were once again completely obscured. It was one of those Yellowstone magic moments. Had we been there any earlier or later, we may have walked right through the area without realizing it. As we walked through the pass near Parker Peak we noticed lithic scatter everywhere, which makes sense that people would sit there and lookout for wildlife to hunt.

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After the pass the trail was mostly flat or downhill, which finally took us out of the clouds. 

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Eventually we could see Miller Creek below us, we just had to hike down the switchbacks on the feature colloquially known as "Parachute Hill." It was a little muddy so we had to take our time. We rolled into camp, made dinner, and hit the sack not long after.

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The plan for this day was to hike out of the Miller drainage to the confluence with Lamar River. It was overcast, but at least it wasn't raining. The views along Miller Creek were mostly in the trees but occasionally we did get some views of the creek, and to our surprise a HUGE petrified redwood tree stump. We also came across some fairly fresh bear tracks.

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Eventually we made it to the confluence and both Miller Creek and Lamar River were extremely turbid from all the rain. The sliver lining is that it knocked any smoke out of the air we had the couple days before.

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We made it to camp, set up tents, and shortly after we were visited by this bison. We were able to watch him from our camp as he used this tree as a scratching post. We were also treated to a nice sunset along the river.

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The last morning of the trip we woke up to clear skies along the river. We packed up early and hit the trail, headed back to our car at Lamar River TH.

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We made it to our final creek crossing of the trip, Cache Creek, and it was basically a bison highway. The trail through the trees was like 12' wide. Once we were on the other side we found ourselves in Lamar Valley proper with the thousands of bison in the valley for the rut. It was a pretty awesome way to end the trip, watching the bulls chase cows throughout the valley as the sound of their bellows filled the air.

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Trip notes: the total trip was just over 36 miles and 6,200' of elevation gain. This is a really cool route because of the diversity of ecosystems you get to walk through. Hiking the eastern boundary in the alpine and Hoodoo Basin were my two favorite parts of the trip. If we had better weather, it would have been fun to explore more in the alpine. Even though we were hiking on "trail," I'm glad we had backup navigation tools for when the weather didn't cooperate. Some of the longer days hiking through the mud, we did encounter some type-2 fun, but overall this was a great trip and is now one of our favorites that we have done in Yellowstone.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking North Absaroka Wilderness Shoshone National Forest Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/8/sunlight-lamar Thu, 26 Aug 2021 02:58:00 GMT
Yellowstone: Heart Lake & Mount Sheridan https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/7/heart-lake Hey everyone,

After talking about it for a few years, we finally made the plan to hike out to Heart Lake and Mount Sheridan. We drove the two hours to the trailhead from the North Entrance and got on trail about 10am. The first few miles of the trail are fairly boring, since it's a sandy trail and through thick lodgepole forest. Eventually we popped out of the trees and we could see the lake in the distance. We also started to see some of the many thermal features in the area.

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Once we made it off the ridge, we descended down to Witch Creek and followed it out to the lake the rest of the way.

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Once we arrived at the lake, we hung out at camp for a little bit until it cooled off. We took the opportunity to explore around the lake and check out the Heart Lake Ranger Station.

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The next morning I got up for sunrise to get some photos of first light on Mount Sheridan, which we planned to hike that day.

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Unfortunately, a little haze from fires in California had drifted into the area. It wasn't so bad that you could feel it while hiking, but it did affect our long-distance views. 

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At the top, we also got to meet a little pika friend living under the Fire Lookout. He was nervous at first, but after a while he came out to grab some food.

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We did the same. We cracked the beers we packed in, sat in the shade of the fire lookout, and ate our snacks taking in the views.

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On the way down, we decided to take a different route. Instead of taking the trail the entire way, we cut off just before we got back to the campground so we would have the opportunity to look down on the Heart Lake Geyser Basin.

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Back at camp it was crazy hot, so we jumped in the lake to cool off. As we were drying off, a 10" leech swam by. Glad we didn't have a Stand By Me moment. The next day we hiked out the same way and stopped in the Grant Village area to get some ice cream. Best way to end a trip in the backcountry!

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Trip notes: We hiked around 24 miles over the three days, about eight miles each day. We have some friends that did it in two, but that sounds more like a suffer fest to me. It would be cool to go back and spend more time exploring the Heart Lake Geyser Basin.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/7/heart-lake Tue, 13 Jul 2021 03:27:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain National Park in Winter https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/3/rocky-mountain-winter A buddy of mine had a birthday coming up and I was able to fly to Denver for a long weekend. I've spent a lot of time in Rocky in the summer, but I had never been in the winter. So we made a plan to stay in Estes for a couple nights and snowshoe into the mountains for a couple days. We arrived  too early to check into our hotel, so we hit the climbing gym in town and then the bar for a couple beers. We decided to head to Sprague Lake for sunset, which was nice. Normally it's so crowded in the summer but there were only a few of us walking the trail.

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The following morning we drive up to Bear Lake so we could hike up Flattop Mountain. I've done this hike in the summer a few times, and I knew it was fairly safe from avalanche danger.

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Eventually we started to climb out of the trees and got some nice views of the mountains, including Longs Peak. Unfortunately, climbing out of the trees also meant the wind picked up. Substantially.

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As we climbed out of the Krummholz and into the alpine, we were completely exposed. It was straight wind in the face as we climbed up the mountain. Occasionally the wind would gust and completely obscure the views.

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It was slow going with the wind and the snow. As we neared the top the weather came in and we decided ti find a spot to crack our beers and have some snacks. 

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On the way down we came across a few groups of ptarmigan in winter plumage. It's crazy how close we got to them before we noticed them.

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We made it back to the trailhead in one piece and hit Ed's for some killer Mexican food and margaritas. We had one more day to explore around but we were a little sore from the day before. So we headed back to Bear Lake but instead of climbing, we hiked out to Nymph, Dream, and Emerald lakes.

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On the way back to town we had to stop and get a nice photo of Longs Peak and the Diamond. Overall, it was a short but great boys birthday trip!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado Rocky Mountain National Park snowshoe winter https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2021/3/rocky-mountain-winter Mon, 22 Mar 2021 02:44:00 GMT
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Moab, UT https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2020/10/Grand-Staircase-Escalante Just got back from 2 weeks in the high desert with Corrie and Toklat. We had plans for Corrie's 40th birthday to spend a couple weeks in France, but covid had other plans. Since we added the pup to our pack we had to avoid national parks when we wanted to hike. That meant hitting mostly USFS and BLM spots. It was nice exploring new trails in familiar areas. Having the pup also forced us to get up early to beat the heat which meant we got to watch the sunrise on our hikes without having to share the views with crowds. The first on the list was to hike Corona Arch. 

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After hiking in the morning and relaxing during the afternoon heat, we decided to do a picnic dinner up in the iSky district of Canyonlands. Once we made it out to the end of the road, we cracked open the wine and charcuterie and took turns staying in the parking lot with Toklat since pets weren’t allowed on the overlook or trail. When it was my turn, I saw someone on the paved overlook with a dog who walked right past the “no pet” sign. I thought to myself, “whatever, it’s just along the sidewalk portion of the overlook.”

I shrugged it off and set out down the trail to snap a few photos. When I was hiking back up the trail the dog owner I saw earlier was coming down the trail with his dog so I politely said, “you might have missed the sign (he didn’t), but pets aren’t allowed on the trails.” He responded, “sorry I didn’t want to leave my FAMILY member at the trailhead.” For whatever reason that really rubbed me the wrong way. As a new pet owner I’m just now starting to notice how limiting parks are when it comes to pets, but we don’t get to pick and choose what rules to follow in parks. And while I’m on my soapbox, people who falsely claim their pets as service animals is also crap. I’m curious if anyone else out there feels the same way or if I’m the only one.

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The following morning we headed out to Fisher Towers for sunrise. This was a new hike for all of us. It's super fun, but there are a few ladders that might be tough for bigger dogs since you have to lower them up and down the ladders.

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At the end of the trail we found a nice spot overlooking the canyon and cracked some breakfast beers.

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The rest of the day we spent along the river to keep cool, and then went out for our anniversary dinner. The next day we drove over to Escalante and checked into our campsite.

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After our quick stop in Moab, we headed west to Escalante where we camped for the week. The first day we decided to drive around the area and pop into a few places, including Bryce Canyon since my buddy Chris had never been. No matter how many times you see the Amphitheater, it never gets old. We didn’t hike this time because we had Toklat with us, but it was nice to soak in the views from the rim.

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On the drive back to camp we saw a sign for the Toadstool Hoodoos Trail. We were sick of being in the car so we decided to hike the short distance even though it was a little hot outside. We around plenty of water to make sure everyone stayed cool.

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The following day was a trip to Zebra Canyon. Chris' cousin Brian met up with us and its was a new hike for everyone. This place had been on my list since I lived in Moab, eight years ago. We set out early and were the only people on the trail.

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We didn't know what to expect, but when we got to the canyon there was about three feet of standing water. We all took our shoes off and made our way though. We also took turns passing Mr. T through obstacles so he didn't get stuck of have to get wet. Lucky boy.

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Eventually you get to the back part of the slot where you can tell how the canyon got its name. It's not very big, so if it were crowded I could see that being an issue, but it was cool to have it to ourselves.

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On the hike out we came across a few groups so it seems like we planned it perfectly. From there we headed over to Devils Garden to check out Metate Arch.

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Back at camp we grabbed showers and relaxed before heading out to watch the sunset.

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Another day and another hike, this time to Lower Calf Creek Falls. The cool morning air filled the canyon and the cottonwood trees were just starting to change color.

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There was a good amount of people at the falls, but it didn't feel crowded. We chilled our beers in the water and took a swim to cool off. It's pretty crazy how lush this canyon is compared to a lot of the surround areas. Gotta love water in the desert.

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Chris had to peel off this day, so it was just the three of us again. This time we planned to hike the Willis Creek Narrows. The road to get to the trailhead was too much for our Subaru to handle, it was only jeeps and trucks at the trailhead. That didn't stop us though, we just had to walk the road for a mile or so. And we were glad we did because this canyon was freaking AWESOME! It's not as narrow as Zebra, but it's like three miles long. It's a great place to escaped the heat and plus there was water for the dog the entire time. I would definitely go back here again.

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Back at camp we hung out, drank beers, made a fire, and relaxed. 

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Today's adventure we planned to hike "The Box." There are a few ways to do this hike, the most popular being a shuttle and hike it all downhill. Since we didn't have two cars and we were limited on mileage with the pup, we decided to just hike it from the lower trailhead.

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It was a lot of creek crossings and neither of us wanted wet feet so we stopped a lot. Eventually you climb out away from Pine Creek and get cool views of the canyon.

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Once we figured we were far enough, we found a spot in the shade to crack beers and have lunch before turning around. It would be nice to do this hike again with the shuttle.

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Our last day in the area we decided to hike out to Escalante Natural Bridge. Fall colors were looking nice and this time we hiked in our Chacos because we knew we were doing a lot of river crossings.

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Eventually we made it out to the natural bridge, which was cool, but we also unexpectedly came across a petroglyph panel. I think this was my favorite part of the hike.

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There was also some ruins next to the panel, not sure how people got up there to build a dwelling.

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After the hike we drove over the Burr Trail Road to Singing Canyon, a nice walkable canyon right off the road. All the way at the back we heard some voices and as we got back there we saw some people canyoneering. The dude was coming off a HUGE rappel. 

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After the hike we drove back to camp and made a few pit stops to take photos from the overlooks.

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We were bummed that we weren't able to do the France trip, but this was a nice consolation prize. I really love the Colorado plateau and I hope to spend even more time there in the future!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument hiking Moab photography Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2020/10/Grand-Staircase-Escalante Sun, 18 Oct 2020 03:45:00 GMT
Yellowstone and Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Hellroaring Creek to Coyote Creek https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2020/7/yellowstone-and-absaroka-beartooth-wilderness-hellroaring-to-coyote-creek This trip starts and ends in Yellowstone National Park, but both nights of camping are outside the park's northern boundary in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. We had never been to the area, so we weren't sure if there were designated camp spots or not. But we had a few areas in mind that would make a good camp spot if we could find a clearing. The hike was uneventful until we decided to stop for a snack around the Montana/Wyoming border. Once we sat down in the shade we were immediately bombarded by mosquitoes. We threw our rain gear on and sprayed some bug repellant. Little did we know that this wouldn't be the last bug encounter on this trip.

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After a couple hours on the Hellroaring Trail, we made it to the northern boundary and it was heavily forested. We were a little worried about finding a spot, but it turns out there is a hardened site with hang pole and all. We were pleasantly surprised. AND it even had a nice swimming hole to jump in for a swim and cool off.

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The next morning we woke up early to beat the heat and started our climb. The wildflowers were blooming and the scary beautiful. Not a ton of shade so the day started getting hot as the sun rose higher.

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Eventually we made it to our first trail junction and bridge crossing. There was a gigantic log jam at the base of the bridge. We couldn't help but think that was an accident waiting to happen if there was a flood.

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We also stopped by the Historic Hellroaring Station, built in 1925, for a snack break and photo.

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From here we would cross over Hellroaring Creek again and start our climb up and around Bull Mountain. By this time in the day we are starting to drag a little bit, the wind died down, and the temps were warm. As soon as we started our climb we entered into a forested and swampy area that was FULL of mosquitoes. It was too hot for rain gear, and the bug spray only did so much. The only thing we could think to do was to hike as fast as we could to get out of the trees and find a breeze. 

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Just as we were about to bonk, we gained the saddle around Bull and were greeted by a glorious wind in our face. We took the time to sit in the shade to cool off and refuel. While we were sitting we saw two people ride by on horseback in the distance; the only people we saw for the entire three days of the trip.

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Our goal was to camp as close to the boundary as possible, near reliable water. Since we were kind of winging it, when we came across a flat spot under some big trees, we figured that would work as good as any other spot. We dropped our packs and set up camp.

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The following morning the wind died completely and we could hear the mosquitoes buzzing outside our tent, waiting for their next meal. We decided that having a leisurely breakfast was a bad idea, so we ate breakfast as we walked in circles in rain gear attempting to keep bugs out of our face. Then we packed up and headed back towards the park along Coyote Creek. We reached the boundary after a mile or so and it was mostly smooth sailing back to the trailhead. As we neared some of the park camp sites, it started raining on us a bit, but nothing torrential.

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Right before we crossed the Hellroaring Bridge over the Yellowstone River, a black bear sauntered down the trail forcing us to jump off the trail to keep a safe distance. On the climb out back to the car we saw another black bear and cub. Apparently it's a very berry area!

Trip notes: Other than the bugs, the 22 miles and 3,300' elevation gain was a real treat. I think my favorite part of the trip was the section along the Hellroaring where we camped and got to swim. We also hiked by the Buffalo Plateau area and I think we need to explore in that area a little more. Overall, fun trip and great to see a new area!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2020/7/yellowstone-and-absaroka-beartooth-wilderness-hellroaring-to-coyote-creek Thu, 02 Jul 2020 03:31:00 GMT
Yellowstone River: Point of Rocks to Mayor's Landing https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2020/5/point-of-rocks-to-livingston Only a few months into lockdown and with spring trying to emerge, we decided that a river trip was just what the doctor ordered. After packing up the food, beer, and gear we arrived at the Point of Rocks put in just in time for it to start snowing. After a very short debate of whether or not we should still go, we unloaded boats and shuttled vehicles to Livingston. When we got back to Point of Rocks, the weather had changed for the better and we shoved off for 40 or so river miles ahead of us. The river was high and flowing fast, which meant we should arrive to camp fairly early.

Along the river we had excellent views of all the spring birds including bald eagles and osprey fishing along the river. We even got to see some baby mergansers floating with mom.

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Even though it was a little chilly, the sun came out and Paradise Valley was living up to its name.

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About halfway on the run, we found some islands where we planned to camp for the evening. We unloaded the boats, gathered firewood, made dinner and drinks, watched the sunset, and relaxed by the fire.

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The following morning was a beautiful sunrise and a beaver swam by camp for a visit. After breakfast and mimosas, we shoved off for another beautiful day on the river.

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It was a perfect bluebird day, so we just sat back and let the world drift by.

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Once we reached Livingston, we unloaded the boats and headed home. A great trip in our backyard to kick off the summer season adventures!

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Notes: The trip was around 40 miles in length and it took us about 8 hours on the river to float the entire stretch. You don't need permits to float this section, but it is a popular day use area, especially in the summer.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) float trip Montana Yellowstone River https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2020/5/point-of-rocks-to-livingston Thu, 28 May 2020 02:58:00 GMT
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness: Lake Abundance Creek to Wolverine Creek https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/9/lake-creek-lost-wolverine-loop We heard about this loop from some friends the year before. Our friend Patrick decided to join us on this overnight trip. Unfortunately we were given some incorrect information and didn't take the time to follow up on it. We thought our first day was going to be about 10 miles and all flat or downhill, so we didn't feel the need to get a super early start. So after driving to Cooke City, MT, and up to the trailhead we started out on the 4x4 road until we made it to the Wilderness Boundary. A few groups on ATVs passed up but they were all just going to Lake Abundance.

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Eventually we made it to the boundary and the Lake, and that was the last of people we would see for the day.

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We were surprised with the fall colors in the high country, the weather was still still warm. It made for a hot day of hiking without any exposure.

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At around 10 miles we made it to the Slough Creek Valley, but the miscommunication was that it was about 3 miles between the two valleys. So instead of stopping, we kept hiking along looking for our trail junction. After hiking an hour longer than we should have, we all started bonking and decided to stop and refuel. After a brief rest to ee rolled into our camp spot just before sunset.

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I had read that there was a chance for northern lights so I decided to set an alarm for the evening. I'm glad I did, the stars were gorgeous and we did get a small glimmer of aurora looking up Slough Valley.

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The following morning we got an early start because we knew it was going to be a difficult climb out along Wolverine Creek.

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It was another blue sky day and again, not much shade. So when we took breaks, we took advantage of the shade we could find. This section of the trail didn't have as much fall color, but the views of the mountains were better in my opinion. Along the trail all we could talk about was hitting the gas station in Cooke City and getting an ice cold gatorade with a bag of chips.

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We made it back to the car early afternoon, plenty of time to hit the store and take our time driving home through the park. As we were driving back to US212, we were first on scene for an ATV rollover accident. Since Corrie is an EMT, we stopped and offered the person medical attention while their son drove into cell service to call 9-1-1. Meanwhile, while all this happening we are sitting out in the hot sun, exhausted, without water, waiting for EMS to airlift the patient to the hospital and move the crashed vehicle from the road so we could drive home. The lady who crashed ended up being ok, just some bangs and bruises. Crazy end to the trip.

Trip notes: We hiked just shy of 23 miles with 3,300' of elevation in two days. In an area that doesn't have a ton of loop routes, it was fun to be able to start and end in the same place without backtracking.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness backpacking Custer Gallatin National Forest Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/9/lake-creek-lost-wolverine-loop Thu, 05 Sep 2019 02:58:00 GMT
San Juan National Forest: Ice and Island Lakes https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/8/ice-island-lakes Our planned backcountry basecamp spot was only about 3 miles in. Beyond that was above tree line and we didn't want to be too exposed. From our basecamp we would day hike in the surrounding area and return to camp each night. Since it was such a short (but steep) hike in, we were able to convince our friends without backcountry gear to hike in for the day and explore with us. Also, since they didn't have heavy packs and are badasses, we convinced them to hike in with some beer for the day. It was a great plan all around.

The following morning we woke up, broke camp at 6 am and headed to the trailhead. Once we had a parking spot secured we could make breakfast and pack for the trip. Good thing we did because the entire trailhead parking was full by 7 am. We housed our breakfast burritos and set off.

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We made short work of the 1900', 3 mile climb and found a great spot to set up camp. The flowers were OFF THE RAILS. They were the biggest, densest, and tallest patches of wildflowers I think I've ever seen.

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We explored the lower basin, and enjoyed the sun while it was around. We grabbed naps, then dinner, and decided to hike to the upper basin to scout plans for sunrise. The upper basin was gorgeous, but the weather wasn't great. We had some beers and whiskey for the sunset and then headed back to camp for the evening. 

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The next morning we woke up for sunrise and headed back to the upper basin where we would meet up with our day hike folks.

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We made out way back up to Ice Lake and holy moly was it a SPECTACULAR sunrise up there. As soon as we crested the high point of the trail and the lake came into view, we were greeted to a COMPLETELY different view from the night before. Cerulean blue lake, surrounded by the colorful San Juan mountains.

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After about an hour of relaxing and swimming, the beer team showed up. As they pulled all the beer out of their backpacks, they revealed that they had carried about 25 beers up! It was only 8 am in the morning but we all cracked one to celebrate how lucky we felt to all be in this beautiful spot together.

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From Ice Lake we continued to Island Lake, where we planned to spend the day relaxing and drinking beers.

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When they initially pulled out 25 beers I was a little worried that we weren't going to be able to finish them all. But by 11 am we were already running low. After going back and forth with each other, I was dared to try and swim out to the island. Being a fan of cold water and a few beers deep I decided to try. I'm pretty sure I only made it about 1/3 of the way before I could feel the blood draining from my arms causing them to cramp. Next time I need to bring up a little boat or something.

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After a bit of swimming the clouds started rolling in and since the beer was mostly gone we figured that was our cue to head back to the tents anyway. About halfway back to camp the sky opened up with a mix of hail and rain, but no lightning. We said bye to the half of our group that wasn't overnight camping and laid down for a nap. The rest of the day was non-stop rain. I took advantage of being extra relaxed from the multiple IPA's at 12K feet elevation to lay down and listed to the sounds of the rain on the tent. It was such an awesome day.

The next morning we broke camp and the sun came out enough for us to dry out before packing up. In no time we were back at the trailhead where fresh clothes and cold beers awaited us. After loading up the trucks we headed to lodge, it was wedding time!

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Trip notes: You can easily do the hike as a day hike, but we thought it would be nice to wake up in the backcountry. If we have a chance to go back, I think I would probably climb up Grant Peak and check out the views. If you have a 4x4, there are also some sweet trails in the area like up to Clear Lake and Ophir Pass.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Colorado San Juan National Forest https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/8/ice-island-lakes Sun, 11 Aug 2019 06:05:00 GMT
Grand Teton: Owen Spalding Route https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/7/climbing-the-grand Have you ever had an idea or goal that you always wanted to accomplish, but life kinda got in the way? Or maybe the idea was was a little too big and you just wrote it off as a pipe dream? Well that goal for me was climbing Grand Teton. When I moved to Jackson in the winter of 2008 it was my first time living in the mountains. I’d never been hiking, backpacking, mountain climbing, or anything outdoorsy other than car camping, really. That winter living in the mountains set me on a different path though. I knew that’s where I wanted to be, even though I was a fish out of water. When I left Jackson that spring and drove back to Florida, I remember visiting the park one last time for sunrise and thinking how awesome it would be to experience standing on top of that mountain.

During the 11 years that followed I slowly picked up more outdoor skills as I traveled the US: hiking, backpacking, climbing, and caving. Then last winter my buddy Chris got into mountaineering and asked if I’d be interested in joining him on an expedition. "Hell no... but I have always wanted to climb the Grand.” So, over [one too many] beers @cmferrante, @andyustinphoto, and I agreed that we would make a run at it this summer. 

The day had finally arrived. The plan had us hiking to the Lower Saddle to camp, summit, and then hike out. The advice we got for the approach was to start early, hike slowly, and enjoy the views. So the night before we packed our bags, divided up my extra weight I couldn’t carry (I HAD A DOCTOR”S NOTE GUYS), and loaded up the POWERWAGON!!! We arrived at the trailhead, moved the coolers into the cab of the truck, and vowed to return a few days later to consume the contents in celebration. We were off.

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We slowly made our way through the meadow, up the foothills, stopping often to drink water and eat snacks. A few weeks earlier, when I found out I needed surgery, I called the team and gave them the opportunity to back out. Both said as long as I felt good enough to hike that they were in to carry the extra weight. Since my pack was only supposed to be 25 lbs, that meant Chris and Andy were carrying close to 60-65, even though I was over my limit. So it was definitely slow going.

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Eventually we made it into Garnett Canyon where the trees and grasses were replaced with granite walls. The trail also petered out and became more uneven. We made our way through boulders, over moraines, across snowfields, along waterfalls, and up scree, until we reached the crux of the hike known as the “headwall.”

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Once we all made it safely up we felt a single drop of rain, so I suggested we duck under a nearby glacial erratic to let the storm pass. Our timing couldn’t have been better. For the next 30 or so minutes it hailed nearly 2”, then rained, then hailed some more. It was a perfect opportunity to grab more snacks and watch and listen to the lightning and thunder roll over our heads. Once the storm passed we were greeted with a spectacular double rainbow.

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The last 10 minute push and we arrived at the Lower Saddle. We filtered water, made dinner, drank whiskey, watched the sunset, and studied the route we planned to tackle in the morning.

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I went to bed nervous, doubts were flowing through my head. I wasn’t sure if I was healthy enough to climb. It’s the first time in a long time that I thought I may have been in over my head. The next day we woke up to strong winds and rain. Since our permit allowed us more time, we decided to take a layover day and not push for the summit. We checked the weather for the following day and it called for clear skies. So we just hung out in camp for the day and took in the windy views.

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Eventually the clouds parted and we were greeted to a spectacular sunset. I took the time to get Chris a new Tinder photo.

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The next day my alarm went off at 3:30 am. Coffee and breakfast by headlamps. My nerves were on edge as we watched the guided teams leave one by one ahead of us. We filtered water, loaded up our gear, and I made sure we each had our summit soda for the top. As we picked our way through the route it was slow going. I read the route enough times that everything was memorized, but doing it in the dark was challenging. Black Dyke, check. Chockstone chimney, check. Eye of the Needle, check. Just as we made it to the Central Rib I looked back to check on the guys. The beautiful pink light that hits the mountains first thing in the morning was here, and it wasn’t thousands of feet above us, but below us, enveloping the Middle Teton. 

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Once we gained the Upper Saddle Chris took over. He had been training for weeks for this moment: his first lead climb. Pitch after pitch, Chris led us through icy chimneys until we arrived at the final slabs.

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As we gained the summit ridge I was overwhelmed with emotions I haven’t felt many times in my life: the first time I saw Denali or Halema’uma’u under the Milky Way, flying over Glacier, and watching my wife walk down the aisle. As we took in the cloudless views from the 13,770’ peak, I was covered in goosebumps.

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As we cracked our beers and toasted the accomplishment, our celebration turned back to focus: we were only halfway.

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We picked our way down, rappelled, and scrambled our way back to camp.

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We arrived just in time for the best sunset of the trip.

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The following morning we slept in til 8, packed up camp, and hit the trail. I'd like to say our packs felt lighter, but the food weight we carried in was replaced by our crap-filled wag bags. At least the weather was spectacular.

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Looking back, I still can’t believed it all happened. Teamwork definitely makes the dream work! Here's to the next adventure!

Trip notes: Getting to the Lower Saddle is fairly straightforward, but a difficult hike. The Owen Spalding Route is also very doable for novice climbers, like myself, if you study the route and have the right gear. We were fortunate with a good weather window and that's likely the only reason we were able to summit on this trip. Guided trips the day before us turned back due to fog and snow.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking climbing Grand Teton National Park Wyoming https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/7/climbing-the-grand Thu, 18 Jul 2019 02:58:00 GMT
Australia: The Land Down Under https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/4/australia I've been wanting to visit Australia for a while, but when we found out our friends from Melbourne were getting ready to move, we figured it was time to finally pull the trigger. We took off on Friday night and landed on Sunday morning. Our friend's picked us up at the airport and took us to their place downtown. We spent the day exploring, snacking, and bar hopping, trying to stay up as late as possible to avoid jet lag. The following day we jumped in the car and headed west to the Great Ocean Road. On the way through Great Otway National Park we saw our first wildlife sighting: a koala was walking across the road. We couldn't tell what is was at first, but when we finally realized what it was, I screamed to pull the car over and jumped out of a quick photo.

Koala climbing a treeKoala climbing a tree Koala checking us out through the treeKoala checking us out through the tree

When we stopped for a coffee and a bathroom break, there were crazy birds we've never seen before. You'll notice a lot of bird photos throughout this blog.

Masked Lapwing - Vanellus milesMasked Lapwing - Vanellus miles Galah Cockatoo - Eolophus roseicapillaGalah Cockatoo - Eolophus roseicapilla Silver Gulls - Chroicocephalus novaehollandiaeSilver Gulls - Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae White-faced heron - Egretta novaehollandiaeWhite-faced heron - Egretta novaehollandiae

Eventually we made it to our destination for the day: Twelve Apostles Marine National Park. It was a beautiful sunny day when we arrived. We explored the boardwalks and trails until we saw a big storm cell coming in off the ocean.

Afternoon sunshine at Twelve Apostles (wide)Afternoon sunshine at Twelve Apostles (wide) Afternoon sunshine at Twelve ApostlesAfternoon sunshine at Twelve Apostles Waves crashing into the Twelve ApostlesWaves crashing into the Twelve Apostles Twelvele Apostles alternate viewTwelvele Apostles alternate view Arch at twelve apostlesArch at twelve apostles

Our next big exploration day we headed out to Dandenong Ranges National Park. As soon as we got our of the car we were surrounded by exotic birds. Super colorful birds that you only see as pets in the states were all around us. We spent the day hiking through the forest, looking for birds, kangaroos, and wombats. Sadly, we never saw a wombat, only the square poops they left behind.

The sun shines through the DandenongsThe sun shines through the Dandenongs Crimson Rosella Parrot - Platycercus elegansCrimson Rosella Parrot - Platycercus elegans Sulphur-crested cockatoo (Cacatua galerita) in flightSulphur-crested cockatoo (Cacatua galerita) in flight Grey Fantail - Rhipidura albiscapaGrey Fantail - Rhipidura albiscapa Australian King Parrot - Alisterus scapularisAustralian King Parrot - Alisterus scapularis Superb lyrebird - Menura novaehollandiaeSuperb lyrebird - Menura novaehollandiae Laughing Kookaburra - Dacelo novaeguineaeLaughing Kookaburra - Dacelo novaeguineae Sulphur-crested cockatoo - Cacatua galeritaSulphur-crested cockatoo - Cacatua galerita Yellow wattlebird - Anthochaera paradoxaYellow wattlebird - Anthochaera paradoxa Pied Currawong (2) - Strepera graculinaPied Currawong (2) - Strepera graculina Eastern Yellow Robin - Eopsaltria australisEastern Yellow Robin - Eopsaltria australis Long-billed Corellas - Cacatua tenuirostrisLong-billed Corellas - Cacatua tenuirostris

When we were't doing trips our of the city, we would hit up the city parks. A super cool spot was the Royal Botanic Gardens. Lots of cool plants and birds to check out including my favorite bird of the trip, the Rainbow Lorikeet.

Rainbow Lorikeet - Trichoglossus moluccanusRainbow Lorikeet - Trichoglossus moluccanus Nymphaea LilyNymphaea Lily Pied Currawong - Strepera graculinaPied Currawong - Strepera graculina South Australia state flower - Sturt's Desert Pea - Swainsona formosaSouth Australia state flower - Sturt's Desert Pea - Swainsona formosa Rat Tail CactusRat Tail Cactus

Another great day in the city day we jumped on the tram and headed to St. Kilda Pier. We were hoping to get a glance at the smallest penguin species in the world: the fairy penguin. We found out that during the day they head out into the open water to hunt so we didn't have much luck. But after looking in the jetti rocks we found one hanging out in the shade. As we were walking back from the pier we did catch a glimpse of one fishing. They are awesome swimmers and extremely hard to get photos of them. The other cool species we saw was the arctic tern. We had previously seen this bird in Alaska and Iceland, but always cool to see it in an entirely different place.

Fairy penguin - Eudyptula minorFairy penguin - Eudyptula minor Fishing Fairy Penguin - Eudyptula minorFishing Fairy Penguin - Eudyptula minor Fishing Fairy Penguin (2)Fishing Fairy Penguin (2) Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) with Melbourne SkylineArctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) with Melbourne Skyline Arctic Tern in flight - Sterna paradisaeaArctic Tern in flight - Sterna paradisaea

The Australian Grand Prix was happening while we were in Melbourne, so we couldn't explore Albert Park until after the race. We hit a couple jogs around the lake and saw so many birds that we grabbed our cameras and went back just to take some photos. It's so cool that in such a big city there is so much green space for wildlife. Our friends are big birders, but by the end of the trip we had them sending us cool bird spottings.

White-faced heron hunting - Egretta novaehollandiaeWhite-faced heron hunting - Egretta novaehollandiae Australasian swamphen - Porphyrio melanotusAustralasian swamphen - Porphyrio melanotus Blue-billed duck on Albert Park Lake - Oxyura australisBlue-billed duck on Albert Park Lake - Oxyura australis Crested Pigeons - Ocyphaps lophotesCrested Pigeons - Ocyphaps lophotes Black Swan on Albert Park Lake - Cygnus atratusBlack Swan on Albert Park Lake - Cygnus atratus Black Swan - Cygnus atratusBlack Swan - Cygnus atratus Pied Stilt reflections - Himantopus leucocephalusPied Stilt reflections - Himantopus leucocephalus Red-rumped parrot - Psephotus haematonotusRed-rumped parrot - Psephotus haematonotus Crested PigeonsCrested Pigeons Pacific black duckPacific black duck Australasian swamphen - Porphyrio melanotusAustralasian swamphen - Porphyrio melanotus

The last of the things we saw around Melboure was heading out to Fort Nepean. We explored the fort and saw an echidna. What cool little critters.

Fort NepeanFort Nepean Short-beaked Echidna - Tachyglossus aculeatus aculeatusShort-beaked Echidna - Tachyglossus aculeatus aculeatus

We spent two weeks in Oz, and for the middle weekend we decided to fly out to Adilaide and take the boat to Kangaroo Island.

Gohana on the side of the roadGohana on the side of the road Koala resting in a treeKoala resting in a tree Jewel Spider and webJewel Spider and web Black swans, Australian Shelducks, banded stilts, and eurasian coots at Murray LakeBlack swans, Australian Shelducks, banded stilts, and eurasian coots at Murray Lake

When we are on the island we headed out to Seal Bay Conservation Park and took a tour out to the beach to see the Australian Sea Lions.

Australian sea lion yawningAustralian sea lion yawning Australian sea lions nappingAustralian sea lions napping Australian sea lionsAustralian sea lions Males sea lions sparring at Seal BeachMales sea lions sparring at Seal Beach Australian sea lion sleepyAustralian sea lion sleepy Australian sea lion in the surfAustralian sea lion in the surf Australian Sea Lions snugglingAustralian Sea Lions snuggling Seal Beach, Kangaroo Island panoramaSeal Beach, Kangaroo Island panorama Whale bones on the beachWhale bones on the beach

The other day on the island we headed out to Flinder's Chase National Park and hit a few trails. The first was out to Admiral's Arch where we saw a few New Zealand Fur Seals.

Cape du Couedic lighthouseCape du Couedic lighthouse Souther Ocean from Flinders Chase National ParkSouther Ocean from Flinders Chase National Park Overlooking the Great Australian BightOverlooking the Great Australian Bight Southern Ocean tidal zone in Flinders Chase National ParkSouthern Ocean tidal zone in Flinders Chase National Park Admiral's Arch in Flinders Chase National ParkAdmiral's Arch in Flinders Chase National Park New Zealand fur seal on the rocks in Flinders Chase National ParkNew Zealand fur seal on the rocks in Flinders Chase National Park New Zealand fur seal pupNew Zealand fur seal pup

Then we explored Remarkable Rocks.

Overlooking Remarkable RocksOverlooking Remarkable Rocks Remarkable Rocks indeed.Remarkable Rocks indeed. Remarkable Rocks indeed (2)Remarkable Rocks indeed (2) Remarkable Rocks indeed (3)Remarkable Rocks indeed (3) Remarkable Rocks indeed (4)Remarkable Rocks indeed (4)

After grabbing a snack we headed out on the Platypus Waterholes Walk. Since it was the dry season, the chances of seeing a platypus were extremely low but we rolled the dice anyway. No platypi, but we did see a goanna and cool birds. 

Goanna in Flinders Chase National ParkGoanna in Flinders Chase National Park New Holland Honeyeater (2) - Phylidonyris novaehollandiaeNew Holland Honeyeater (2) - Phylidonyris novaehollandiae White-faced heronWhite-faced heron

Since the weather was still nice we decided to hit a short walk along the Heritage Walk Trail. We wouldn't have picked this hike as a top pick since it's was only about a mile long, but we hit the motherlode of animals. On this short trail we saw wallabies, koalas, kangaroos, more birds, and an extended interaction with an echidna looking for food. It was definitely the highlight of the trip.

Wallaby blepWallaby blep Wallaby sitting under a treeWallaby sitting under a tree Splendid Fairywren - Malurus splendensSplendid Fairywren - Malurus splendens Kangaroo Island Short-beaked Echidna walking through duff - Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatusKangaroo Island Short-beaked Echidna walking through duff - Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus Kangaroo Island Short-beaked Echidna - Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatusKangaroo Island Short-beaked Echidna - Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus Koala in Flinders Chase National ParkKoala in Flinders Chase National Park Scarlet Robin - Petroica boodangScarlet Robin - Petroica boodang Australian Magpie Portrait - Cracticus tibicenAustralian Magpie Portrait - Cracticus tibicen Grey Kangaroo on Kangaroo IslandGrey Kangaroo on Kangaroo Island Cape Barren Geese - Cereopsis novaehollandiaeCape Barren Geese - Cereopsis novaehollandiae Kangaroo SunningKangaroo Sunning Moon through the gum treesMoon through the gum trees

Not pictured in the blog were all the great restaurants, dessert shops, bars, cafes, night tours, and DRT (designated rest time) naps we had. It was really awesome to visit a city with personal tour guides. City traveling is not usually what we set out to do, but it was a great change of pace. It was also great spending time with friends and catching up. What I also learned about OZ is that it's big: about the size of the US. So that means there's much more to see and do. We have some other places we want to visit in the short-run while we can still hike and backpack, but I definitely think we will be back in the area again. We also have to hit New Zealand and Tasmania. Standard: cross one thing off your travel list and then add two more.

I hope y'all are doing well, we're getting ready for winter here in Montana.

-Jake

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Australia photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2019/4/australia Thu, 04 Apr 2019 02:58:00 GMT
Iceland: Laugavegur Trail https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/11/laugavegur-trail Welcome to the last of the Iceland Honeymoon blog! If you didn't read about Hornstrandir and The Golden Circle check those out! 

The off-road bus picked us up in downtown Reykjavik and we were off to Landmannalaugar. The route turned from highway, to dirt road, to what resembled a dirt road, to braided rivers, and riverbed. We arrived to Landmannalaugar, this remote location was a bustling hiker city. I was surprised at the amount of people. When we hiked in Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, the few people that we did run into mentioned they noticed a huge difference in the amount of the people between the two locations. We were stoked to get there, but decided to go for a hike and have dinner away from the crowds. When we were eating a group of Icelandic horses rode by. I had a feeling we were in for a great trip.

Horseback ride through the river at LandmannalaugarHorseback ride through the river at Landmannalaugar

Our planned itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

Day 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur

Day 4: Emstrur to Þórsmörk

It averaged a little less than 9 miles per day which would allow us to arrive at camp early, drop gear, and explore the surrounding area by day hiking.

Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Thermals along the Laugavegur TrailThermals along the Laugavegur Trail

Day 1 arrived, which happened to be my birthday, and we woke up to spectacular weather. We wanted to get ahead of the crowds so we got up with the light and were one of the first groups on the trail.

Hikers near a thermal feature on the trailHikers near a thermal feature on the trail Colorful formations near the thermalsColorful formations near the thermals Corrie and colorful formations on the Laugavegur TrailCorrie and colorful formations on the Laugavegur Trail Colorful formations on the Laugavegur TrailColorful formations on the Laugavegur Trail

Immediately we were greeted with spectacular views. Colorful geology and hydrothermal features dotted the landscape. It was a hybrid of Yellowstone and Denali: two of my favorite places.

Morning light on the colorful formations of the Laugavegur TrailMorning light on the colorful formations of the Laugavegur Trail Corrie takes in the views of the thermals along the trailCorrie takes in the views of the thermals along the trail Thermal areas and mountains along the Laugavegur TrailThermal areas and mountains along the Laugavegur Trail Birthday self-portrait along the Laugavegur TrailBirthday self-portrait along the Laugavegur Trail

Around each new bend in the trail was another photo op. Since we only had to do about 9 miles, we were in no hurry. The trail to Hrafntinnusker was uphill and eventually we hit snow fields.

Laugavegur Trail hikerLaugavegur Trail hiker Corrie hikes the trail to HrafntinnuskerCorrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker

Seeing the contrast of white snow and black volcanic sand was pretty awesome.

Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker (2)Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker (2) Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker (3)Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker (3)

We arrived to Hrafntinnusker around noon and spirits were high.

Corrie arrives at HrafntinnuskerCorrie arrives at Hrafntinnusker

I went to the warden hut to check in and pay for the night. Just then a winter storm warning came in over the radio. The storm was headed our way on what would be the morning of our third day. The warden recommended pushing on to the next spot because strong winds were expected to arrive before the storm and there was no cover in this location. I went outside and talked it over with Corrie. After some deliberation about our ability to do 18 miles with a full pack in a day, we decided that it was probably best to keep hiking since the days were long and the weather was good. So we ate lunch strapped on our packs and continued along the trail.

Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

Hikers head to Álftavatn from HrafntinnuskerHikers head to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker Views heading to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (3)Views heading to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (3) Corrie takes in the views along the trail Álftavatn from HrafntinnuskerCorrie takes in the views along the trail Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (2)Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (2) Views heading to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (5)Views heading to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (5)

In the 8 or so miles we hiked to get here, the landscape had completely changed. Even though it was late season, there was green vegetation near the melting snowfields. The section was mostly high plateau hiking with views in all directions. I still couldn't believe that there was this much snow in late August. I'm curious what it's like doing this hike early season.

Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (5)Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (5) Hikers crossing a snowfiled along the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (2)Hikers crossing a snowfiled along the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (2) Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from the passCorrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from the pass Waterfalls from the pass between Álftavatn from HrafntinnuskerWaterfalls from the pass between Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker

Eventually we reached the highpoint where we could see our destination: Álftavatn. From here it was all downhill or flat. 

Views along the trail to Álftavatn from the passViews along the trail to Álftavatn from the pass Álftavatn from the passÁlftavatn from the pass

As we descended from the pass, the miles started to take their toll. We needed to stop more frequently for breaks and food.

Corrie hikes the trail dropping down to Álftavatn from the passCorrie hikes the trail dropping down to Álftavatn from the pass Corrie arrives at ÁlftavatnCorrie arrives at Álftavatn

We made it and were one of the first groups to arrive for the day. We found a nice flat spot to set up our tent and then headed over to the warden hut to celebrate. As we were enjoying our freeze dried dinners, a local guide came over to say hello. He had just finished making Icelandic meat soup (lamb stew) for his guests. He said they had too much and asked if we would like some. I offered him a trade: meat soup for some of the bourbon we brought on the trip. He was more than happy to help lighten our load. As we sat there having second dinner, drinking bourbon, enjoying the birthday Oreos that Corrie packed, it began to lightly rain. We had timed our day perfectly. It was time to hit the sack after 18 miles. We decided that we should get up early, hike to Emstrur, recheck the weather, see how we felt, and make a decision to stay put or to push all the way to Þórsmörk.

Campsite at ÁlftavatnCampsite at Álftavatn

Álftavatn to Emstrur

We woke up around 6 am and the wind had picked up. It had stopped raining so we took advantage of packing our gear when it was still dry. We moved over to the hut, ate breakfast, and the rain began to fall. The low clouds and rain had brought out the vibrant color in the vegetation. Bright green on black soil. This particular stretch would be the longest of the 4 we were covering so we made sure to keep a good pace.

Views between Hvanngil and Emstrur (2)Views between Hvanngil and Emstrur (2) Corrie crossing near HvanngilCorrie crossing near Hvanngil Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from HvanngilCorrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil

After a couple miles the rain stopped and the sun started to poke through the clouds on occasion. Again, this section of the trip was drastically different from the previous two. Black volcanic rocks with green vegetation patches on the steeper hillsides. This section of the trail was also lower in elevation and the rivers were much larger. This allowed us to filter more often so we didn't need to carry as much water.

Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (2)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (2) Views along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (2)Views along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (2) Waterfalls along the trail to Emstrur from HvanngilWaterfalls along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (3)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (3) Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (5)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (5)   Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (6)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (6) Views along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (6)Views along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (6) Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (7)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (7)

Eventually the clouds raised enough that we were able to see Eyjafjallajökull in the distance. 

Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (8)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (8)

Just as we were debating whether to stop and each lunch or try to push on to Emstrur, the warden hut came into view in the distance.

Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (9)Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (9)

Upon arrival we checked in with the warden and the storm was supposed to hit around 10 the following morning. We were pretty exhausted at this point. We figured we should make the call to stay or go after lunch. After going back and forth and chatting with some other hikers, we decided to make some coffee and push on. Again, the weather was on our side at the moment and the days were long. We figured it was better to do the hike tired in good weather versus rested in snow. 

Emstrur to Þórsmörk

Not too long after leaving Emstrur, the landscape changed again. Giant glaciers backdropped the trail and rivers roared through canyons.

Hikers on the trail to Þórsmörk from EmstrurHikers on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (4)Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (4) Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (5)Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (5) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (4)Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (4) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (5)Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (5) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (8)Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (8)

The weather continued to stay dry until we hit mile 15 for the day. We could see the rain in the direction we were headed although it hadn't reached us yet.

Hikers on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (2)Hikers on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (2) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (11)Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (11) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (14)Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (14)

When it did reach us, we decided it was a good time to stop and take a break. We were about 34 miles into the hike with a few more to go, but we were toast. Since we were carrying 4 days worth of food with us and didn't want to carry the food for no reason, we decided to sit there and start housing it. It was really hard getting up after that break. Tired legs, sore feet, and full bellies made the last few miles extremely slow going.

Corrie not not smiling along the trail to Þórsmörk from EmstrurCorrie not not smiling along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (6)Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (6)

Ahead of schedule and nearly 40 miles later, we made it to Þórsmörk. The rain cleared up for the rest of the day and we celebrated with more Oreos and bourbon. It had been a long time since we had hiked that hard. The bonus is that we made it ahead of most of the other groups, so we were first on the waitlist to catch the shuttle out 2 days early. 

Corrie smiling as we arrive at ÞórsmörkCorrie smiling as we arrive at Þórsmörk Our campsite at ÞórsmörkOur campsite at Þórsmörk Views at ÞórsmörkViews at Þórsmörk

The following morning, as we got on the off-road bus, the storm finally arrived. We were lucky to be off the trail only having to deal with slight rain.

Trip notes: The section of trail we completed is about 33 miles long with 4,600' elevation gain. If we had the opportunity to do it again, it would have been nice to do it in four days versus two, so we could explore around camp once we arrived. But overall it was a diverse and exciting trail, and I highly recommend!

Screen Shot 2024-01-01 at 10.32.28 AMScreen Shot 2024-01-01 at 10.32.28 AM Screen Shot 2024-01-01 at 10.32.47 AMScreen Shot 2024-01-01 at 10.32.47 AM

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Iceland Laugavegur Trail https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/11/laugavegur-trail Thu, 29 Nov 2018 03:58:00 GMT
Iceland: Snaefellsnes, Golden Circle, and Southern Coast https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/11/Golden-Circle Welcome back! If you didn't read about Hornstrandir, I recommend going back for that to give you some context from the first week of the trip.

This week was planned to be more relaxing and to see the sights near the roads. Some days the weather didn't cooperate so I wont give a day-by-day, but rather a general overview of the things we saw during the week. 

We picked up the car and headed out of town to the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Corrie was navigating and we had no planned route.

Gerðuberg basalt columns with hikerGerðuberg basalt columns with hiker

This house was featured in the Secret Life of Walter Mitty. We didn't realize it until we came back and rewatched the movie. That's kinda neat.

Stykkishólmur coastlineStykkishólmur coastline

I was pretty excited to see Kirkjufell, but when we got there it's literally off the side of the road. I was pretty surprised how that was the case for many things in Iceland. Because of that, you have multiple tour busses full of people sharing the view with you. I definitely fell victim to how people portray these places on Social. Still a cool spot though for sure.

Kirkjufellsfoss and rainbowKirkjufellsfoss and rainbow

From there we hit more waterfalls and headed out to Snæfellsjökull National Park. It was socked in and raining that day, but we did enjoy the views of the beach.

Svödufoss from downstreamSvödufoss from downstream Skarðsvík BeachSkarðsvík Beach Skarðsvík Beach and coastlineSkarðsvík Beach and coastline

After the peninsula we headed back towards Reykjavík on our way out to the southern coast. Þingvellir National Park is beautiful and holds some pretty awesome history of the country. It's essentially where the first courts of the country were held. Before the times when written word was common. They would read the laws out loud for everyone to hear and would hold courts. In fact one of the rivers was used to carry out the death sentences. It's also where two continents meet: known as Silfra. This is visible throughout the country, but in this park you can actually dive down between the continental plates. Þingvellir is definately worth the trip if you go.

Þingvvellir National ParkÞingvvellir National Park Öxarárfoss at ÞingvvellirÖxarárfoss at Þingvvellir Geology at Þingvvellir with sunburstGeology at Þingvvellir with sunburst

From Þingvellir we headed out to Gullfoss, one of the larger waterfalls we saw on the trip. The water coming off this thing was nuts.

Gullfoss and Hvítá riverGullfoss and Hvítá river Gullfoss and rainbowGullfoss and rainbow

And living so close to Yellowstone we couldn't pass up the opportunity to see some sights that reminded us of home...

Strokkur Geyser eruptionStrokkur Geyser eruption Krýsuvík thermal areaKrýsuvík thermal area Cloudy black pools in KrýsuvíkCloudy black pools in Krýsuvík Boardwalks through KrýsuvíkBoardwalks through Krýsuvík Gunnuhver Hot SpringsGunnuhver Hot Springs Gunnuhver Hot Springs (2)Gunnuhver Hot Springs (2)
Views along the shore of KleifarvatnViews along the shore of Kleifarvatn Road along KleifarvatnRoad along Kleifarvatn

After we hit Reykjanesfólkvangur we headed out to the coast to take in some views that we weren't familiar with.

Krisuvikurberg CliffsKrisuvikurberg Cliffs Sandvík continental platesSandvík continental plates Coastline near Reykjanes Lighthouse (2)Coastline near Reykjanes Lighthouse (2) Coastline near Reykjanes Lighthouse (3)Coastline near Reykjanes Lighthouse (3)  After crashing in the worst place on earth, Selfoss (its a long story I'll get into later), we started to make our way east along the southern coast. The further away we got from Reykjavik the more amazing the sights got. We saw some pretty kick-ass waterfalls.

HjálparfossHjálparfoss Hjálparfoss and mountainsHjálparfoss and mountains Seljalandsfoss from the foot bridgeSeljalandsfoss from the foot bridge Seljalandsfoss and double rainbowSeljalandsfoss and double rainbow Corrie hiking behind SeljalandsfossCorrie hiking behind Seljalandsfoss Þjóðvegur viewsÞjóðvegur views Skógafoss and rainbowSkógafoss and rainbow

With all the glacial melt, there were tons of braided rivers that reminded us of Alaska, but with smaller mountains. 

Eyjafjallajökull views near SkógarEyjafjallajökull views near Skógar Eyjafjallajökull views near Skógar (2)Eyjafjallajökull views near Skógar (2)

But Iceland has horses...good looking ones.

Icelandic horse and EyjafjallajökullIcelandic horse and Eyjafjallajökull

That night we soaked at our BnB during the sunset. I got up that night to see about the aurora. It was out a little, but too cloudy for any decent views.

Corrie and I toes soaking at Hotel LambafellCorrie and I toes soaking at Hotel Lambafell Hotel Lambafell and auroraHotel Lambafell and aurora

The next morning we continued further east. We arrived in Vik pretty early in the morning and explored the beaches and watched lots of puffins fishing along the coast.

Katla VolcanoKatla Volcano Dyrhólaey from Reynisfjara BeachDyrhólaey from Reynisfjara Beach Reynisfjara BeachReynisfjara Beach Sea stacks at Reynisfjara BeachSea stacks at Reynisfjara Beach

From Vik we continued on to Skaftafell for some hiking and more waterfalls and glaciers.

Svartifoss from the platformSvartifoss from the platform Svartifoss and basalt columnsSvartifoss and basalt columns Corrie hikes in Vatnajökull National ParkCorrie hikes in Vatnajökull National Park Walking a glacier tour road in Vatnajökull National ParkWalking a glacier tour road in Vatnajökull National Park

Since the days were so long we weren't ready to call it quits. One of the highlights we were excited to see was Jökulsárlón, a glacial lagoon. This place was amazing. The wildlife and scenery was top notch.

Jökulsárlón and icebergsJökulsárlón and icebergs Jökulsárlón in evening lightJökulsárlón in evening light Jökulsárlón and icebergs (2)Jökulsárlón and icebergs (2) Corrie hiking at JökulsárlónCorrie hiking at Jökulsárlón
In addition to the lagoon with giant glacier background, you could walk across the street to the black sand beach known as diamond beach. Huge chunks of ice would wash up on shore as the tide came in and out. We could have spent more time in that area for sure.

Diamond Beach icebergsDiamond Beach icebergs Diamond Beach icebergs and sunsetDiamond Beach icebergs and sunset Waves crashing at Diamond BeachWaves crashing at Diamond Beach

But it was time to head back to Reykjavik to get ready for another backpacking trip. We also had planned to splurge and do a fixed wing flight to take in some of the sights from the air.

Driving towards Vatnajökull National Park.Driving towards Vatnajökull National Park.

On our way back through Selfoss our rental car broke down. They told us that a rock had hit the radiator and we would need to pay for it. So after cancelling our overflight, we waited for the tow truck to take us the rest of the way back to Reykjavik. I guess it was a good thing we didn't take the flight, because the bill for the tow and the radiator was like $1,700. But we weren't going to let it ruin our good time. We eventually made it to our AirBnB where we would relax and prep for the Laugavegur Trail. Little did we know it was going to be the highlight of the trip, even though we were about to unknowingly hike 36 miles in 2 days. Once we completed that trip, the remainder of the trip we would be at Blue Lagoon. Since we were staying at the hotel we had a private pool to soak in. We spent the following days soaking, eating, and drinking. We still had a bottle of vodka that we needed to finish and nothing to do. Well, except our appointments for our in water massages! 

Corrie soaking at Blue LagoonCorrie soaking at Blue Lagoon Sunny morning at Blue LagoonSunny morning at Blue Lagoon Sunrise sunburst at Blue LagoonSunrise sunburst at Blue Lagoon Colors of Blue LagoonColors of Blue Lagoon

It was the perfect ending to a spectacular honeymoon in Iceland.

Corrie and I at Blue LagoonCorrie and I at Blue Lagoon

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Iceland photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/11/Golden-Circle Thu, 22 Nov 2018 03:58:00 GMT
Iceland: Hornstrandir Nature Reserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/11/hornstrandir Hey everyone,

It's been a LONG time since I've put together a blog post. I've had a bunch of people asking for photos from our recent honeymoon so I figured it was a good time to dust off the keyboard. We've been home for a few weeks now, but trying to edit 3 weeks worth of photos and video has taken the back seat to other work trips and projects. Since there are so many photos to share I am going to break it up into 3 parts. Hover over the photos for more info on them. Here goes...

After a long trip to Iceland we landed in Reykjavik. From there we jumped on a bus, transferred to a bus, and then caught a domestic flight to Isafjourder. We grabbed pizza and beers, packed our bags, and hit the sack. The following morning we woke up and headed to the docks to catch our boat to Hornstrandir. 

Ísafjörður morning reflectionsÍsafjörður morning reflections

It was a beautiful morning and we were excited to get our first glimpses of the country after so much travel and poor weather. Spirits were high especially after we finally got a good night's rest.

Boat ride out to the HornstrandirBoat ride out to the Hornstrandir Sea arch in West FjordsSea arch in West Fjords Sea arch in West Fjords (2)Sea arch in West Fjords (2)

After an hour or so of boating and soaking up the scenery, we arrived at our first stop. Our boat was equipped with boat-on-boat technology so the captain unloaded the zodiac and the dayhikers all jumped on.

Our trusty steed in West FjordsOur trusty steed in West Fjords Dropping off hikers with the zodiacDropping off hikers with the zodiac

After the first drop, we headed to Veiðileysufjörður where we would start out hike. When the boat finally left, Corrie and I just sat on the shore and started laughing. It had taken us over two days of traveling by car, planes, trains, busses, taxis, and boats to get here, and we were finally able to enjoy it. After shedding layers and grabbing some snacks we set off for the pass. The plan for the day was to hike from one fjord to another by going up and over a pass.

Zodiac head back to the boatZodiac head back to the boat Leaving veiðileysufjörðurLeaving veiðileysufjörður veiðileysufjörður reflectionsveiðileysufjörður reflections The sound of musicThe sound of music Our first unnamed waterfallsOur first unnamed waterfalls Waterfall and veiðileysufjörðurWaterfall and veiðileysufjörður Away we go from veiðileysufjörðurAway we go from veiðileysufjörður Historic cairns along the trailHistoric cairns along the trail

After a few hours on the trail we finally made it to the pass. The weather was so nice and I was still jet-lagged so I dropped my pack and took a nap. We knew that today's weather was going to be the nicest of this leg of the trip so we weren't in a hurry. Eventually we decided to move on so we could set up camp. As we made it to the other side of the pass we could see the Horn, the destination of the following day's hike. 

veiðileysufjörður from the passveiðileysufjörður from the pass Heading towards Hornvik from the passHeading towards Hornvik from the pass Crossing snow bridgesCrossing snow bridges

As we dropped into the Hornvik area the entire valley was ringed with waterfalls. As we were nearing camp we were discussing how much we hoped we would see an arctic fox. It's an animal that neither of had seen before. Just as we made it to camp I said, "hey look at that!" as an arctic fox ran past us. It wasn't close enough for a photo so we were a little bummed, but we didn't know that we'd be seeing many more up close.

More waterfalls along the trailMore waterfalls along the trail

The next morning we woke up to a low ceiling. We had the advantage of long days on our side so we slept in hoping that the weather would improve. That cool feature that we planned to hike out to today, the Horn,
was completely hidden in clouds. We decided that we should hike out there anyway and hopefully the weather would improve. Since it was high tide we decided to hike out and cross the river where it was wider instead of near the ocean.

Private residence in HornvikPrivate residence in Hornvik Hiking to the HornHiking to the Horn Hiking to the river crossingHiking to the river crossing

Once we made it to the river we took off our shoes and started across the chilly water. On the other side the trail took us past some spectacular waterfalls and black cobble beaches.

River crossing at high tideRiver crossing at high tide Moody views along the Horn trailMoody views along the Horn trail More waterfalls with CorrieMore waterfalls with Corrie Corrie on the Horn TrailCorrie on the Horn Trail

As we pushed further out to the Horn the weather started to improve behind us. The trail ahead was still in the clouds, but we were finally able to see our camp and where we had come from. 

Corrie Climbing up the Horn overlooking HornvikCorrie Climbing up the Horn overlooking Hornvik

As we made it to the Horn you could barely see the Arctic Ocean below or the views ahead. So we decided to sit and see if the weather would improve. Lucky for us, it did.

Corrie on the edge of the HornCorrie on the edge of the Horn Corrie hiking the Horn as clouds roll over the edgeCorrie hiking the Horn as clouds roll over the edge

The trail took us along a beautiful, lush ridgeline that looked down on the Arctic Ocean. As we made it to the pass we could see all of Hornvik and the sea of clouds rolling in from the north. It was such an awesome view to take in.

Corrie overlooks Hornvik from above (panorama)Corrie overlooks Hornvik from above (panorama)

I was slightly behind Corrie on the way up and once she hit the ridge where she could see into the next valley all I heard from her was "Oh fuck yea!" When I made it there a few seconds later I shouted something similar. We were staring at this awesome knife-edged geologic feature with clouds rolling up and over below them. This view was one of the main reasons that we wanted to visit this area and we knew that we had lucked out with the weather. So I pulled out our bottle of Woodford Reserve and we just sat there by ourselves and enjoyed the view.

Corrie and I at HornbjargCorrie and I at Hornbjarg Whiskey views at HornbjargWhiskey views at Hornbjarg Hornbjarg rising above the cloudsHornbjarg rising above the clouds Wildflower and Hornbjarg as clouds roll over the cliff (3)Wildflower and Hornbjarg as clouds roll over the cliff (3)

We knew that we were going to get hungry for dinner eventually so we decided to push on. The trail was along some of the craziest terrain. It was awesome.

Corrie hikes the trail out to HornbjargCorrie hikes the trail out to Hornbjarg A cliff of green rises above an ocean of cloudsA cliff of green rises above an ocean of clouds Corrie hike the trail to Hornbjarg in the distanceCorrie hike the trail to Hornbjarg in the distance
Corrie taking in the views of HornbjargCorrie taking in the views of Hornbjarg

We stopped often to take photos of the scenery, flowers and foxes playing. There was still plenty of sunlight but we were running out of snacks for the day so we looped back around the ridge and backtracked our way to camp. 

Private residence along the coastline of HornvikPrivate residence along the coastline of Hornvik Cottongrass and the HornCottongrass and the Horn

On the way back it was low tide so we decided to cross the river at the ocean this time. The day was still warm enough that I decided to go for a swim. After that the last couple miles home was along a black sand beach, no shoes needed.

Black sand beach at HornvikBlack sand beach at Hornvik Sunset beach walk back to campSunset beach walk back to camp Corrie walking on the beach back to campCorrie walking on the beach back to camp

After dinner we had a visitor. 

Curious arctic foxCurious arctic fox

Needless to say it was a long but amazing day.

Hot tea after a great day of hikingHot tea after a great day of hiking My babooshkaMy babooshka

The next day we woke up to rain.  That would be our reality for the rest of the trip. Every once in a while the weather would quit long enough for me to break out the camera and take a few shots, but overall it was extremely cold and wet. 

Corrie on the trail to HloduvikCorrie on the trail to Hloduvik Moss-covered cliff along the trail to HloduvikMoss-covered cliff along the trail to Hloduvik Trail sign to RekavikTrail sign to Rekavik

We weren't the only ones that were cold and wet. I'm sure a lot of what we hiked through was awesome looking, but at points the visibility was so bad that we had to split up to find the next cairns. All part of the adventure I guess.

Arctic fox curled up to stay warmArctic fox curled up to stay warm Hiking to Hloduvik in the cloudsHiking to Hloduvik in the clouds Corrie coming down from the passCorrie coming down from the pass Corrie hiking the trail to HloduvikCorrie hiking the trail to Hloduvik Following the cairns to Hloduvik (2)Following the cairns to Hloduvik (2)

Day 4 we woke up to more rain. My sleeping bag had finally dried out from my body heat but I was not looking forward to putting wet clothes and shoes back on. We made breakfast in the tent, a luxury not afforded to us normally because we camp in bear country, and then continued on through rivers and marshes and over more mountain passes.

Corrie taking one last look at Hloduvik before heading outCorrie taking one last look at Hloduvik before heading out Corrie and river crossings on the trail to HesteyriCorrie and river crossings on the trail to Hesteyri Corrie and waterfalls on the trail to HesteyriCorrie and waterfalls on the trail to Hesteyri

At one point I was so cold and tired that I started to get the "umbles." All of my gear was soaked. Either from sweat or rain. It was so wet and windy that the only gear that would have kept us completely dry would have been like rubber fisherman slickers. So when we finally made it to the pass where we could see our final destination we were both extremely happy.

  Corrie hiking down to Hesteyri from the passCorrie hiking down to Hesteyri from the pass Hesteyri and cairn from the passHesteyri and cairn from the pass Corrie hiking to the campgroundCorrie hiking to the campground

We made it to camp, set up our tent, and magically the rain stopped long enough for us to have dinner and hang our stuff out to dry. We also found out that there was a small coffee shop where we could grab some coffee and sweets and get out of the elements for a short bit. 

Our campsite at HesteyriOur campsite at Hesteyri
Corrie enjoying Rhubarb cake in HesteyriCorrie enjoying Rhubarb cake in Hesteyri

Hornstrandir was an awesome trip. We got to see the area at it's best and it's not-so-best. When the weather is good it's mostly easy hiking if you're in good shape and have some navigational skills. When the weather is bad you better have lots of high-calorie food, good rain gear, and excellent navigational skills.

When the boat came the following day to pick us up were weren't too sad to leave, only because we were ready for hot showers and non-dehydrated food. We grabbed dinner and beers back in Isafjourder, hit the sack, grabbed a taxi the following morning, and took the plane back to Reykjavik. From there we planned to rent a car and explore The Golden Circle and southern coast

Trip notes: We hiked a total of 31 miles with 7,700' of elevation gain. Spectacular area and I would love to go back. The logistics are complicated to get there, but it's worth it!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Hornstrandir Nature Reserve Iceland https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/11/hornstrandir Sun, 18 Nov 2018 19:03:38 GMT
Isle Royale National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/9/-isle-royale Hey Everyone,

I just got back from a week in Minnesota and Michigan where I visited Isle Royale National Park for the first time. We took a boat from Grand Portage across the lake. We base camped out of Windigo for the entire trip, but we did explore around the southern permitter of the island. Here are my favorites from the trip.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Isle Royale National Park Michigan photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/9/-isle-royale Mon, 01 Oct 2018 02:43:00 GMT
Glacier: Going-to-the-Sun Road https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/6/going-to-the-sun-road Hey Everyone!

When I lived in Columbia Falls, MT, one of my favorite things to do in Glacier was bike the Going-to-the-Sun Road to Logan Pass. The benefit of living there, is that each week you can bike as far as the road is open. As the plows get higher and higher, you get stronger and stronger. Well, this time we only had a long weekend so we were biking to the top straight off the couch, with no training. Turns out that's much harder to do.

From Avalanche Campground, the first few miles are fairly flat. Eventually you start to climb and it doesn't stop until you get to the top.

One of the popular turnaround spots is The Loop, the only switchback in the entire 50-mile road.

But if you keep going, the views only get better and better.

 

Then higher we climbed, the closer and snowier it got. Eventually we we made it to the waterfalls along the road. The most popular being the Weeping Wall. We pulled over and put on rain gear to protect us from the wind and water.

 

One of my favorite things about riding up the road early season, is that the guard rails aren't installed yet.

 

After 16 miles and about 3,000 feet of climbing, we made it to Logan Pass. It was cold and CRAZY windy, so we only stayed long enough to drink our beers and eat snacks.

The benefit of all uphill on the way up, means it's all downhill on the way back. We only stopped a few times for more photos. 

       

It takes us about 4 hours to climb to the top and like 40 minutes to get back to the car. That whole 40 minutes you're basically flying. It's the greatest. If you have the chance to do it, go for it. I'd recommend waiting until the afternoon once the traffic dies down a little bit. Plus if you leave in the afternoon, you can watch the sunset from the top and then ride down before it gets dark.

 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) biking Glacier National Park Montana photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2018/6/going-to-the-sun-road Sat, 02 Jun 2018 22:35:00 GMT
Denali: Unit 4 Savage River https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/9/savage-river Denali turned 100 years old this year and the park was hosting a celebration open to the public. Since Corrie and I met there, we decided to make the trip back for a week and catch up with friends in the area. As part of the trip, we headed to the backcountry office to see if we could snag a last minute permit. Unfortunately there weren't any permits in an elevation with tundra, but we were able to get one for unit 4 along the Savage River. The fall color was beautiful, but it's a LOT of bushwhacking unless you're on a game trail or in the river.

We started out at the Mountain Vista Trailhead and started walking up the Savage River. As predicted, lots of bushwhacking, but the views of Fang Mountain in the distance were pretty sweet.

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Eventually we jumped out of the river corridor and picked up a game trail on a bench to the west. The views on the bench looking up valley were gorgeous.

20170902-Denali-03420170902-Denali-034 20170902-Denali-04220170902-Denali-042 20170902-Denali-05220170902-Denali-052

We started seeing signs of wildlife with lots of moose sheds. We also found some grizzly tracks and what appeared to be an old cache site.

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Eventually we had to drop back into the river corridor and vegetation was double overhead. We made sure to make lots of noise because we couldn't see far at all.

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After about 6 miles the river bar opened up and we found a nice place for out tents that didn't appear to be directly on a game trail. We made dinner, had beers, and enjoyed the sunset before heading to bed.

20170902-Denali-09220170902-Denali-092 20170902-Denali-10520170902-Denali-105

The following morning we walked around camp to check out the views before packing up and heading back to the road. The weather was nicer the day before, so we didn't stop much for photos.

20170903-Denali-12620170903-Denali-126 20170903-Denali-12920170903-Denali-129

Once back at the road we stopped for a few photos of the fall colors, which seemed like they were peaking. We also had a pretty great view of the area we just hiked to.

Fall Colors and FangFall Colors and Fang Golden Aspens and Pyramid Mountain (2)Golden Aspens and Pyramid Mountain (2) Golden AspensGolden Aspens

Unrelated to the backcountry, that night the aurora came out. It was a bit cloudy, but I was able to get some decent shots as the clouds passed overhead.

Aurora September 11, 2015 (8)Aurora September 11, 2015 (8) Aurora September 11, 2015 (10)Aurora September 11, 2015 (10) Aurora September 11, 2015 (14)Aurora September 11, 2015 (14) Aurora September 11, 2015 (15)Aurora September 11, 2015 (15)

Trip notes: We did just over 12 miles with 600' of elevation gain. Not a huge fan of bushwhacking, especially with an overnight pack. Since it was the only permit we could get, I'm glad we went. But I much prefer backpacking at higher elevations in the tundra. With so much wildlife, it's nice to be able to see in the distance and not worry that you're going to walk up on a bear or worse, a cow moose with a calf. Overall, another successful trip to my favorite national park!

Disclaimer: Denali is a trail-less Wilderness. These maps are approximations of our routes. Please don't take this blog and map to the Denali Backcountry Information Center and say, "I wan't to do this exact trip." They will take good care of you like they did for us. Thanks!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Denali National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/9/savage-river Sat, 09 Sep 2017 06:05:00 GMT
Craters of the Moon: Total Eclipse https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/8/total-eclipse I received a call from a friend who invited me out to Idaho for the eclipse. I had never been to Craters of the Moon or see a total solar eclipse, so it seemed like a great opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. I spent the day driving from Wyoming and arrived just in time to make one trip around the park to get my bearings, watch the sunset, and scout a few locations for some night shots.

20170818-jwf-777120170818-jwf-7771NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170818-jwf-778320170818-jwf-7783NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170818-jwf-7822-Edit20170818-jwf-7822-EditNPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170818-jwf-7833-Edit20170818-jwf-7833-EditNPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170818-jwf-7891-Edit20170818-jwf-7891-EditNPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170818-jwf-7908-Edit20170818-jwf-7908-EditNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The following morning I drove out early for sunrise and hiked up the Inferno Cone. I was fortunate to be the only person up there and had a great 360 degree view.

20170819-jwf-791320170819-jwf-7913NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-791920170819-jwf-7919NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-792120170819-jwf-7921NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-792520170819-jwf-7925NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-792820170819-jwf-7928NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-793420170819-jwf-7934NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-794520170819-jwf-7945NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20170819-jwf-795820170819-jwf-7958NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After sunrise, I hiked explored around the Spatter Cones area and eventually the Wilderness Trail for a few miles to bird before it got too hot.

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Once the heat picked up, we headed to the caves to explore and find some shade.

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After a few hours in the cave we headed back to camp to take a nap and relax. Once it cooled off again we headed back out to explore more trails and take sunset photos.

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The next day was the big day for the eclipse. We did another sunrise hike before driving a few miles from the park into the path of totality.

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I wasn't really sure what to expect. I have seen a handful of partial eclipses so I thought I knew what I was in for, but I was wrong. Once we were in the shadow of the moon and I was able to take my sunglasses off it was so surreal. There was a 360 degree sunset. Bats and nighthawks started flying around and the temperature dropped by at least 20 degrees, almost instantly. I tried my best to take photos but at the same time watch with my eyes because I knew it might be something that I never see again. 20170821-jwf-899620170821-jwf-8996NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a couple short minutes, the sun started to reappear behind the moon and it was time to put our glasses back on. We were literally yelling and high fiving each other with all the excitement. I can still feel the goosebumps I had as I am typing this up. 

"The Diamond Ring" after totality 2017"The Diamond Ring" after totality 2017

Overall, our trip to Craters was spectacular and I would love to go back with more time to spare. The fact that we also had the opportunity to see this rare celestial event made it that much more special.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Craters of the Moon eclipse Idaho photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/8/total-eclipse Fri, 25 Aug 2017 22:02:00 GMT
Glacier: Reynolds Mountain https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/8/Reynolds Hey everyone!

After a successful summit of Mount Siyeh, I still had a few more days in Glacier. The weather wasn't really cooperating, so I was mostly road based taking photos of the clouds.

After a couple days of rain, the smoke cleared out and the evening's sunset looked to be promising. I called a few friends and asked if they wanted to climb Reynolds with me for sunset. We left from Logan Pass around 5pm once most of the cars cleared out. We slowly made our way up the glacial horn, and had another goat sighing.

The climb is mostly a trail, until the last part where you hike up a big scree field until you reach a set up benches. There is one 10-foot class-3 pitch that's easy to climb, but it's in a no-fall zone. 

After that it's an easy walk to the summit, which is a rounded ridge with a big flat top.

The views from the top are stunning, especially for sunset.

We cracked our beers and hung out and waited for the sunset. The light kept getting better and better.


We didn't feel like hiking down in the dark in case something happened, so we started down after the light was mostly faded. 

The next day, a big lightning storm sparked the Sprague Fire and smoke started to pick back up. I figured that was a sign that it was time to leave. Just had to hit my final favorite spot before making the long drive home. Overall great trip in the old hood!




 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Glacier National Park hiking Montana photography summit https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/8/Reynolds Wed, 09 Aug 2017 22:35:00 GMT
Glacier: Mount Siyeh https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/8/mount-siyeh Hey everyone,

You may remember that I moved from Columbia Falls, MT, last fall. I still had a few to-do's on my list for Glacier, so when I had a week off I decided to head back to my old stomping grounds. The further north I went, the smokier it got, but it was a beautiful drive anyway. Most of the crops were in bloom including a huge field of sunflowers.

We drove up the North Fork for the night to camp. We found a nice spot to take in the smoky sunset. One of the things I wanted to do while up here was to summit one of Glacier's 10K foot peaks, Mount Siyeh. But if it was going to be super hazy, I was starting to second guess the idea of climbing into a haze. Both seeing and breathing are high on my list for things I like to do when hiking, and smoke doesn't help with either of those.

The next morning I made my way to Lake McDonald before sunrise, up to Logan Pass, and parked at the trailhead. The weather looked like it was better than the day before, so we packed up beers and made our way for the summit.

Once we made it to Floral Park the sun just started to peak over the ridge.

We could finally see our target, Mount Siyeh, and its summit just above 10K.

We slowly picked our way up the talus chute, walking back and forth along the ledges. The down valley views just kept getting better and better. We even had some decent wildlife encounters on the way up.

After a break or two, and an hour or two of route finding, we gained the ridge. From there we just needed to follow it to the top. Looking behind us, we saw that we weren't the only ones climbing that day.

At the top we were greeted to new views of one of the most iconic lakes in the park, Cracker Lake. I've hiked and backpacked to the lake a couple times, but this was a whole new level of awesome. From the summit, it's a nearly vertical 4,000-foot drop down to the lake, and you can sit on the edge. I've heard of horror stories about the wind, but there was ZERO wind on our summit day AND the views were better than we had hoped. 

We cracked our beers, sat on the edge and soaked in the views. Which are basically 360 degrees.

After a while, the other group made it to the top. Always fun to share a summit with cool people!

This summit had been on my list since 2010, when I first visited Glacier. I had tried a few other times but got weathered out every time. It was nice to finally reach the summit and the stoke was high!

After a while we decided that we should probably head down so we could drive to East Glacier. No summit day is complete without some margaritas and loaded nachos at Serrano's. Overall spectacular day. Wildflowers were popping to boot!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Glacier National Park hiking Montana photography summit https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/8/mount-siyeh Sun, 06 Aug 2017 22:35:00 GMT
Alcatraz Island https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/7/alcatraz Hey Everyone,

We just got back from a week in California. Corrie's cousin got married and we decided to visit some friends in the area and hit a couple parks while we were there, Alcatraz Island being one of them. I visited once about 15 years ago, but I didn't really appreciate where I was. This time we took a ranger tour and got to see some behind the scenes areas of the island.

The first of the areas was the original entrance and sign of the island, dating back to 1857.

Then we explored some of the courtyards and buildings. Apparently there is a volunteer botanical club that manages the grounds. The flowers and grounds were beautiful.

Alcatraz Island 3Alcatraz Island 3NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz IslandAlcatraz IslandNPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 7Alcatraz Island 7NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 8Alcatraz Island 8NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 9Alcatraz Island 9NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Then we had the opportunity to head up into the lighthouse. The views of the bay were beautiful. 

Alcatraz Island 10Alcatraz Island 10NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 11Alcatraz Island 11NPS / Jacob W. Frank

After the lighthouse we walked around the island checking out the views of the city and all the birds that roost on the island.

Alcatraz Island 12Alcatraz Island 12NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 13Alcatraz Island 13NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 14Alcatraz Island 14NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 15Alcatraz Island 15NPS / Jacob W. Frank Alcatraz Island 16Alcatraz Island 16NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We headed back inside for the final tour of the jail. We got to also see some rooms of the facility that are used for temporary exhibit spaces. It would be an awesome place to play capture the flag at night.

Alcatraz Island 4Alcatraz Island 4
Alcatraz Island 18Alcatraz Island 18NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Every time we go to a new park, I'm always blown at all the interesting stories they tell. Alcatraz is no different. If you get the chance to go, I recommend!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alcatraz Island California Golden Gate Recreation Area photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/7/alcatraz Sat, 15 Jul 2017 13:21:00 GMT
Glacier: Top 100 from 2016 https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/1/Glacier-top-2016 Hey everyone! Things have been pretty hectic these past few months but I finally found some time to sit down and share some photos. I just finished my first week of work in my new job and my feet are a little sore from our hike yesterday, a perfect time to write my last blog with photos from Glacier. This last year was awesome. I couldn't have planned it better. We had an awesome group of people to ski, bike, hike, camp, climb, boat, and hang out throughout the year all over the park. I will definitely miss the area and the community of people. I suspect that I will be back again in the near future, but until then I look forward to seeing the park through the eyes of all the people I have met these past two years. 

Here are a few of the highlights of Glacier from 2016. I hope you enjoy!

Lake McDonald Lodge SunsetLake McDonald Lodge Sunset Sunset over Apgar MountainsSunset over Apgar Mountains   Historic Boat Dock BeachHistoric Boat Dock Beach Lake McDonald Sunset 2.22.16Lake McDonald Sunset 2.22.16 Lake McDonald at Dusk 2.23.16Lake McDonald at Dusk 2.23.16 Mallards Flying Towards StantonMallards Flying Towards Stanton Crashing Waves on Lake McDonald 3.17.16Crashing Waves on Lake McDonald 3.17.16 Lake McDonald Public Dock Sunrise 3.19.16 (2)Lake McDonald Public Dock Sunrise 3.19.16 (2) Lake McDonald 4.12.16Lake McDonald 4.12.16 Lake McDonald Layers at SunriseLake McDonald Layers at Sunrise Lake McDonald 4.26.16Lake McDonald 4.26.16   Bowman Lake ShorelineBowman Lake Shoreline Alpenglow at Bowman Lake (3)Alpenglow at Bowman Lake (3) St. Mary FallsSt. Mary Falls Osprey in Flight - Pandion haliaetusOsprey in Flight - Pandion haliaetus East Glacier Black BearEast Glacier Black Bear Cristos at Running Eagle FallsCristos at Running Eagle Falls Lina By Weeping WallLina By Weeping Wall Lina at Big Bend (2)Lina at Big Bend (2) Lina and Livingston Range SunsetLina and Livingston Range Sunset Lina at Warp SpeedLina at Warp Speed McDonald Valley Sunset UpvalleyMcDonald Valley Sunset Upvalley Bo Riding Past the Weeping WallBo Riding Past the Weeping Wall Bikers Near the Weeping WallBikers Near the Weeping Wall Bo Riding Over Triple ArchesBo Riding Over Triple Arches Approaching Oberlin Bend 5.14.16Approaching Oberlin Bend 5.14.16 Chief MountainChief Mountain James on the Belly Suspension BridgeJames on the Belly Suspension Bridge Gable Mountain and Belly Ranger Station (2)Gable Mountain and Belly Ranger Station (2) Cosley Lake Sunrise PanoramaCosley Lake Sunrise Panorama James at the Belly River Ranger StationJames at the Belly River Ranger Station Calm Pray Lake and SinopahCalm Pray Lake and Sinopah Overlooking Two Medicine Valley (2)Overlooking Two Medicine Valley (2)   Arrowleaf Balsamroot - Balsamorhiza sagittata (2)Arrowleaf Balsamroot - Balsamorhiza sagittata (2) Views of McDonald Valley From OberlinViews of McDonald Valley From Oberlin Garden Wall From OberlinGarden Wall From Oberlin Sunset over Mount Reynolds and JacksonSunset over Mount Reynolds and Jackson Cloud ShadowsCloud Shadows Colorful CloudsColorful Clouds   Middle Fork ReflectionsMiddle Fork Reflections Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (2) 7.2.16Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (2) 7.2.16 Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (4) 7.2.16Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (4) 7.2.16 First View of Cracker LakeFirst View of Cracker Lake   Cracker Lake at SunriseCracker Lake at Sunrise Cracker Lake at Sunrise (4)Cracker Lake at Sunrise (4) Mount Siyeh and BeargrassMount Siyeh and Beargrass Evening Light on the Avalanche Lake TrailEvening Light on the Avalanche Lake Trail Avalanche Lake Hike with Off-road Wheelchair 13Avalanche Lake Hike with Off-road Wheelchair 13 Avalanche Lake 7.15.16Avalanche Lake 7.15.16 Clements and Oberlin from the HighlineClements and Oberlin from the Highline Lake McDonald and Historic DeSmet from Highline TrailLake McDonald and Historic DeSmet from Highline Trail Swiftcurrent Lookout SunsetSwiftcurrent Lookout Sunset Granite Park Chalet SunsetGranite Park Chalet Sunset Heavens Peak (2)  7.19.16Heavens Peak (2) 7.19.16 Tent View from Granite Park Trails CabinTent View from Granite Park Trails Cabin Grinnell Glacier OverlookGrinnell Glacier Overlook Sunset at Swiftcurrent Lake 7.23.16Sunset at Swiftcurrent Lake 7.23.16 Grinnell Point ReflectionsGrinnell Point Reflections Swiftcurrent Creek SunriseSwiftcurrent Creek Sunrise Wynn Mountain and Swiftcurrent Creek SunriseWynn Mountain and Swiftcurrent Creek Sunrise   Quinn Dropping in Iceberg LakeQuinn Dropping in Iceberg Lake Beargrass in Iceberg Valley (2)Beargrass in Iceberg Valley (2) Grinnel Lake and Angel WingGrinnel Lake and Angel Wing Grinnel Glacier Trail FlowersGrinnel Glacier Trail Flowers Upper Grinnell LakeUpper Grinnell Lake Upper Grinnell Lake Reflections TightUpper Grinnell Lake Reflections Tight Quinn, Brittany, and Lex Crossing the OutletQuinn, Brittany, and Lex Crossing the Outlet Wildflowers and Grinnell GlacierWildflowers and Grinnell Glacier Looking Down on Grinnell Lake From Angel WingLooking Down on Grinnell Lake From Angel Wing   Grinnell Lake, Allen Mountain, and Angel WingGrinnell Lake, Allen Mountain, and Angel Wing Sunrise over Logan Pass 7.30.16Sunrise over Logan Pass 7.30.16 First Light on Heavens Peak 7.30.16First Light on Heavens Peak 7.30.16 Hidden Lake 7.30.16Hidden Lake 7.30.16 Hidden Lake PanoramaHidden Lake Panorama Dan Climbing ReynoldsDan Climbing Reynolds Hiker on the Summit of ReynoldsHiker on the Summit of Reynolds Saint Mary Lake From ReynoldsSaint Mary Lake From Reynolds Seth Walking on the Reynolds SummitSeth Walking on the Reynolds Summit Reynolds Summit View PanoramaReynolds Summit View Panorama Hikers at Cutbank Pass PanoramaHikers at Cutbank Pass Panorama Pitamakan Lake From the Pass (2)Pitamakan Lake From the Pass (2) Oldman Lake, Flinch Peak, and Mt. MorganOldman Lake, Flinch Peak, and Mt. Morgan Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (5)Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (5) Shawn and Lauren on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (7)Shawn and Lauren on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (7)   Saint Mary Lake Sunset Panorama 8.13.16Saint Mary Lake Sunset Panorama 8.13.16 Backcountry Beers and Kayak Toast at Hidden LakeBackcountry Beers and Kayak Toast at Hidden Lake Rowing on Swiftcurrent LakeRowing on Swiftcurrent Lake   Rainbow at Lake McDonald for Centennial InstaMeet (2)Rainbow at Lake McDonald for Centennial InstaMeet (2) Alpine Sunset over Mount CannonAlpine Sunset over Mount Cannon Alpine Sunset From OberlinAlpine Sunset From Oberlin Alpine Sunset over Heavens Peak (3)Alpine Sunset over Heavens Peak (3) Fall Drive Along Lake McDonald 10.21.16Fall Drive Along Lake McDonald 10.21.16 North Fork RIver DrivingNorth Fork RIver Driving Self-portrait Bowmand Lake RoadSelf-portrait Bowmand Lake Road Bowman Lake Sunrise 10.22.16Bowman Lake Sunrise 10.22.16 Thunderbird Flank Through the CloudsThunderbird Flank Through the Clouds Rainbow Peak SunriseRainbow Peak Sunrise Bowman Lake Campground Sunrise HikerBowman Lake Campground Sunrise Hiker Larch Trees at BowmanLarch Trees at Bowman Lina, Forrest, and QuinnLina, Forrest, and Quinn

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Glacier National Park Montana photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2017/1/Glacier-top-2016 Fri, 06 Jan 2017 14:32:00 GMT
Glacier: Tinkham Mountain Ridge https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/8/tinkham-mountain Two Medicine is a spectacular area of the park. The "Dawson-Pit" loop is a great day hike if you're up for 18 miles in a day. For this trip, we were interested in camping at Oldman Lake, then hiking up to Pitamakin Pass and out towards Tinkham Mountain. We'd never been there before, but it looked cool on the map. The approach to Oldman Lake is well graded, but the best views are once you're at the lake and starting to climb. We started early so we could drop our gear off at the Lake and then climb up to the pass. It was a little foggy, which was cool to look down on Pitamakin Lake and Seven Winds.

Oldman Lake, Flinch Peak, and Mt. MorganOldman Lake, Flinch Peak, and Mt. Morgan Pitamakan Pass on a Cloud DayPitamakan Pass on a Cloud Day

There was one small snow patch we had to cross, before we gained the saddle between McClintock Peak and Mount Morgan. The views from the ridge looking into Walton area were stunning.

Crossing a Snowfield at Pitamakan PassCrossing a Snowfield at Pitamakan Pass Hikers at Cutbank Pass PanoramaHikers at Cutbank Pass Panorama
Shawn at Cutbank PassShawn at Cutbank Pass 2015 Thompson Fire from Cutbank Pass2015 Thompson Fire from Cutbank Pass

From there we started hiking out towards Tinkham. We weren't sure if the rout went or not, but there did seem to be a climbers route or game trail along the ridge.

Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (2)Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (2) Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (5)Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (5) James and Shawn Hiking Tinkham MountainJames and Shawn Hiking Tinkham Mountain Shawn and Lauren on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (7)Shawn and Lauren on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (7)

Eventually we climbed to a point where we didn't feel comfortable without some protection, so we hung out, ate lunch, and enjoyed the views.

Tinkham Mountain and Pumpelly GlacierTinkham Mountain and Pumpelly Glacier

From there we backtracked our way to the pass and towards our camp.

Hikers at Pitamakan PassHikers at Pitamakan Pass Hikers at Pitamakan Pass (2)Hikers at Pitamakan Pass (2) Pitamakan PassPitamakan Pass
The fog from the morning had burned off and we had great views into the Cutbank drainage.

Pitamakan Lake From the PassPitamakan Lake From the Pass Pitamakan Lake From the Pass (2)Pitamakan Lake From the Pass (2)

We made it back to the lake in time for a swim, dinner, and to catch the sunset over a still lake.

Hikers Going Towards Oldman Lake (4)Hikers Going Towards Oldman Lake (4) Group At Oldman LakeGroup At Oldman Lake IMG_9178IMG_9178 Oldman Lake Sunset (2) 8.4.16Oldman Lake Sunset (2) 8.4.16

In the morning, we made some coffee and took the time to catch a few trout before we hiked back to the car. Overall a short but fun trip. Love this area!

Warren Fishing at Oldman LakeWarren Fishing at Oldman Lake

Trip notes: We hiked just shy of 20 miles and 5,000' of elevation gain in the two days we were in the area. Since it's in the park, it does require a permit. This area, and a few others, only allows for a single night stay. A popular trip is to stay at Oldman and No Name Lakes in either direction as you do the loop. If you have a chance to do it I highly recommend!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Glacier National Park Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/8/tinkham-mountain Wed, 17 Aug 2016 23:12:00 GMT
Glacier: Highline Trail to Swiftcurrent Pass Trail https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/7/Logan-Pass-Many-Glacier We got on trail about 3 pm and it took us forever to arrive at Granite Park because the flowers were OFF THE HOOK! Lots of stopping for photos along the way. It was a little windy until the evening when it calmed down and the bugs came out. After that we weren't stopping for photos as much. Regardless, it was an awesome day.

Clements and Oberlin from the HighlineClements and Oberlin from the Highline Green on the HighlineGreen on the Highline Corrie, Beargrass and the HighlineCorrie, Beargrass and the Highline   Corrie on the Highline Trail near Haystack ButteCorrie on the Highline Trail near Haystack Butte Glacier Lilys on the Highline TrailGlacier Lilys on the Highline Trail Corrie and Heavens PeakCorrie and Heavens Peak Lake McDonald and Historic DeSmet from Highline TrailLake McDonald and Historic DeSmet from Highline Trail McDonald Valley and Rays from Highline TrailMcDonald Valley and Rays from Highline Trail Mt. Cannon and Lake McDonald from the HighlineMt. Cannon and Lake McDonald from the Highline Swiftcurrent Lookout SunsetSwiftcurrent Lookout Sunset Highline Trail and Heavens Peak near Granite ParkHighline Trail and Heavens Peak near Granite Park Golden Eagle over Granite ParkGolden Eagle over Granite Park Granite Park Chalet SunsetGranite Park Chalet Sunset Corrie on the Highline Near Granite ParkCorrie on the Highline Near Granite Park Mt. Cannon, Lake McDonald, Heavens Peak and Glacier LilysMt. Cannon, Lake McDonald, Heavens Peak and Glacier Lilys Heavens Peak 7.19.16Heavens Peak 7.19.16 Heavens Peak Portrait 7.19.16Heavens Peak Portrait 7.19.16 Garden Wall PortraitGarden Wall Portrait Heavens Peak (2)  7.19.16Heavens Peak (2) 7.19.16 IMG_5383IMG_5383

We arrived to camp just in time for sunset, dinner, and whiskey all before the clouds came in and started raining. 

The plan the following morning was to hike up the spur trail early am for sunrise, but when the alarm went off at 5:30 it was still raining. When we woke up the second time the clouds hard parted and the sun came out. It was a pretty awesome view to wake up to. Just before we headed out to the spur trail the packers arrived to the chalet so I had to chat and take a few snaps. On days like these the packers have one of the coolest jobs in the park, no doubt. 

We got up the Grinnell Glacier overlook and hung our for lunch. Just as we were coming down the day hikers were arriving from Logan Pass. We headed back to the chalet, grabbed our packs, and started heading over to Many Glacier. I had never heard anything about Swiftcurrent Pass before, so needless to say we were blown away by the view and the trail coming off the pass in the valley. Waterfalls, headwalls, Swiftcurrent Glacier, and blue-green lakes. It was another picture perfect day, apart from the 40-50 mph gusts. 

Tent View from Granite Park Trails CabinTent View from Granite Park Trails Cabin Heavens Peak ReflectionHeavens Peak Reflection Packing at Granite Park 8Packing at Granite Park 8   Grinnell Glacier OverlookGrinnell Glacier Overlook May Glacier Valley From the Garden WallMay Glacier Valley From the Garden Wall Gem GlacierGem Glacier Salamander and Grinnell GlaciersSalamander and Grinnell Glaciers Grinnell Glacier From the Garden WallGrinnell Glacier From the Garden Wall Highline Spur TrailHighline Spur Trail Corrie on the Spur TrailCorrie on the Spur Trail Heavens Peak from the Spur JunctionHeavens Peak from the Spur Junction View From the Granite Park Chalet Front DoorView From the Granite Park Chalet Front Door Mt. Grinnell From Swiftcurrent PassMt. Grinnell From Swiftcurrent Pass Headwaters of Swiftcurrent CreekHeadwaters of Swiftcurrent Creek Corrie and Swiftcurrent GlacierCorrie and Swiftcurrent Glacier Bullhead Lake From Swiftcurrent Pass TrailBullhead Lake From Swiftcurrent Pass Trail

After we got off the switchbacks it seemed to take forever to make it back to the road. By the time we arrived we were ready for some beers and some food. Good thing the Motor Inn has the perfect cure for what we needed, pizza and beer. Perfect end to an awesome overnight.

Corrie and PizzaCorrie and Pizza

As we headed out the next morning we had to stop and smell the flowers.

Wildflowers in Many Glacier 7.21.16Wildflowers in Many Glacier 7.21.16

Trip notes: We hiked a little over 18 miles with 3,200' of elevation gain. The weather was perfect. If you like to Granite Park, I recommend doing the super trail to the Grinnell Glacier Overlook. This is one of the best trails in the park, and it was great to be able to watch the sunrise and sunset versus your normal day hike views.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Glacier National Park Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/7/Logan-Pass-Many-Glacier Sat, 23 Jul 2016 02:47:39 GMT
Glacier: Cracker Lake https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/7/cracker-lake I tried to head into Cracker Lake earlier this year and had to bail since the weather was too windy, the forecast called for 50mph winds. This weekend the weather looked pretty decent so I decided to try again. All I gotta say is wow. I have been to Cracker Lake before, but nothing beats watching a sunrise there. I would put it very high on the list of things to do in Glacier. The drive into Many Glacier Valley started off with a bear jam due to a grizzly on the side of the road, but we didn't care about the bear because the wildflowers were poppin'!

Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (4) 7.2.16Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (4) 7.2.16 Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (2) 7.2.16Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (2) 7.2.16

Once we got on trail it's a pretty boring hike for the first 4 miles or so minus a few open spots. Then eventually you get into the basin and you are greeted with this spectacular view.

Group Hiking in Cracker Lake (2)Group Hiking in Cracker Lake (2)

The lake itself is the most unique color of blue. It looks fake even in real life.

First View of Cracker LakeFirst View of Cracker Lake Hiking to Cracker Lake CampgroundHiking to Cracker Lake Campground

Eventually we made it to camp had some beers and whiskey, made dinner, and then explored the area during the last hour of daylight.

Dinner at Cracker LakeDinner at Cracker Lake   Head of Cracker Lake SunsetHead of Cracker Lake Sunset Canyon Creek SunsetCanyon Creek Sunset Canyon Creek and Cracker Lake SunsetCanyon Creek and Cracker Lake Sunset Cracker Mine Equipment SunsetCracker Mine Equipment Sunset

The next morning at 5:38 am we work up to an amazing sunrise. This was the entire reason that I wanted to come out to Cracker Lake and it didn't disappoint.

Tent view From Cracker Lake at SunriseTent view From Cracker Lake at Sunrise Cracker Lake Campground SunriseCracker Lake Campground Sunrise Cracker Lake at SunriseCracker Lake at Sunrise   Cracker Lake at Sunrise (2)Cracker Lake at Sunrise (2) Cracker Lake at Sunrise (3)Cracker Lake at Sunrise (3) Cracker Lake at Sunrise (4)Cracker Lake at Sunrise (4)   Corn Lily LeavesCorn Lily Leaves

After breakfast half our group left and the rest of us stayed to explore more of the area and relax. We started our way up Allen Mountain but again, it was SUPER windy so we decided to just chill in an awesome patch of beargrass where we watched a moose browse along the lake and the clouds float by.

Mount Siyeh and BeargrassMount Siyeh and Beargrass Relaxing in the BeargrassRelaxing in the Beargrass Emily at the Head of Cracker LakeEmily at the Head of Cracker Lake Me in the Furnace (2)Me in the Furnace (2)

After a few hours of chilling we were supposed to meet another group of friends back near the campground so we headed back to make lunch, finish our whiskey and catch some more sun. They never showed because the went on a different hike so we ended up taking a nap before waking up and deciding to head back to the trailhead. Needless to say it was a blast of a trip.

Canyon Creek Below Cracker LakeCanyon Creek Below Cracker Lake

Trip notes: The hike to the lake is straightforward: about 6 miles to the foot of the lake with 1,300' of elevation gain. The majority of the trail is fairly boring, it's mostly in the trees. Also, there are a lot of horses on the trail with means a lot of horse shit. On a hot summer day the smell can be pretty strong. Since the headwall of the lake faces east, watching a sunrise there is definitely worth it on a clear day.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Glacier National Park Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/7/cracker-lake Mon, 04 Jul 2016 21:20:00 GMT
Glacier: Cosley Lake https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/6/Cosley-Lake This story starts at the local bar, Freda's. After a few beers we started looking at the map of Glacier National Park on the wall and decided to see if we could get a backcountry permit in the morning. Fast forward to 6:30 am the next day and I was up trying to shake off the slight hangover. My friends were slow to rise. It was obvious that people wanted to sleep in. I eventually got them up and over to the permit office. As we were trying to figure out where to go pre-food and pre-coffee, there was a feeling that people wanted to back out. Admittedly, I was thinking about it also. We still needed to shop, pack, drive 3 hours to the trailhead, then hike the 9 miles into the site. That's when I just said eff it, let's do it. 

The plan was to head into Cosley Lake for two nights. The first night we planned to get on trail by 4pm so we could make camp by sunset. The drive out to the trailhead was spectacular. We also ran into Daniel aka Mammoth, who walked to Glacier National Park from New York and has been walking for 2 years. He just crossed the 16K mile mark! We ended up speaking with him for a little while and he said he was about to begin his hike of the CDT from Canada to Mexico. Such a cool spot to run into him. Chief MountainChief Mountain Yellow Mountain EastYellow Mountain East Chief Mountain and Big Sky PortaitChief Mountain and Big Sky Portait Daniel Johnson-UtsognDaniel Johnson-Utsogn

Eventually we made it on trail, and it was glorious. It was my first time in the Belly River and I don't know what took me so long to get there.

Mariah and Emily (2)Mariah and Emily (2) Belly RiverBelly River Emily and Mariah on the TrailEmily and Mariah on the Trail Hiking into the Ranger StationHiking into the Ranger Station Views at the Gable JunctionViews at the Gable Junction James on the Belly Suspension BridgeJames on the Belly Suspension Bridge Gable Mountain and Belly Ranger Station (2)Gable Mountain and Belly Ranger Station (2) Stormy Chief MountainStormy Chief Mountain Cosley Lake TrailCosley Lake Trail

We made it to camp just in time for for dinner, some whiskey, and to set up camp before the the wind started to pick up and the rain to start. The next morning we woke up to fresh snow and a quiet serene morning. I walked around the lake while the others stayed in the tents. Then the reflection on the lake started to fade so I headed back to camp to wake the others and make breakfast.

Cosley Ridge in the CloudsCosley Ridge in the Clouds Silky Phacelia at Cosley LakeSilky Phacelia at Cosley Lake

After the morning we decided to chill around camp. We saw a bear, pine marten, moose, beaver, deer, as well as some crazy clouds that kept forming and breaking up over the mountains.

Emily Reading the Map at Cosley LakeEmily Reading the Map at Cosley Lake Moose Along Cosley LakeMoose Along Cosley Lake James Chilling on the Shore of Cosley LakeJames Chilling on the Shore of Cosley Lake Eastern Shore of Cosley LakeEastern Shore of Cosley Lake

The rain picked up again in the evening so we called it a night. The next morning we woke up to some of the best backcountry views I have had in a while. 

Cosley Lake SunriseCosley Lake Sunrise Cosley Lake Sunrise PanoramaCosley Lake Sunrise Panorama Cosley Lake and LogCosley Lake and Log Pyramid Peak PortraitPyramid Peak Portrait Geology Reflections on Cosley LakeGeology Reflections on Cosley Lake

After spending about 2 hours shooting, we decided it was time to head back to the car. On the trail we saw some fresh tracks.

Black Bear Track on the TrailBlack Bear Track on the Trail Gros Ventre FallsGros Ventre Falls

We stopped at the Ranger Station for lunch and to take in the views. 

James at the Belly River Ranger StationJames at the Belly River Ranger Station Belly River Ranger StationBelly River Ranger Station

After all the rain, the trail was muddy on the way back. The hill back up to the car was a little tough because of it. We were slipping around all over the place. Once we made it back to the car we had a cooler waiting for us with ice cold beers. We sat in the parking lot for an hour, stretched, and enjoyed the sun. As we passed back through East Glacier we made sure to stop at Serrano's and grabbed some food and margaritas. It was an awesome trip with some good company.

Trip notes:We hiked just shy of 18 miles with 2,000' of elevation gain. Since it's in the park you do need a permit. Other than the mud, this area seems to be a good early season trip because of the lower elevation. 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Glacier National Park Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/6/Cosley-Lake Sun, 19 Jun 2016 04:30:15 GMT
Hawai'i Volcanoes: Hilina Pali to Puna Coast https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/2/hilina-pali-puna-coast After spending a couple nights at the Kulanaokuaiki Campground sleeping under the glow of Halema'uma'u Crater, we woke up early to take in the sunrise. We shuttled our car to the Chain of Craters Road, where we would come out in a few days time, and headed to the Hilina Pali Trailhead. We planed to stay two nights at Halapē and one at 'Apua Point.

Halema'uma'uHalema'uma'u Camping at KulanaokuaikiCamping at Kulanaokuaiki Sunrise at Halema'uma'uSunrise at Halema'uma'u Enjoying the Sunrise at Halema'uma'uEnjoying the Sunrise at Halema'uma'u

The Hilina Pali Trail drops you down over 2,000' to the coast. The trail is over lava and through high brush until you reach the palm tree oasis of Halapē.

IMG_7808IMG_7808 IMG_7813IMG_7813 IMG_7818IMG_7818 IMG_7837IMG_7837

The day we arrived all the shaded campsites were taken. Fortunately, the people staying in the best spot left early the following morning so we moved all our stuff, explored the area, then hung out in the shade. We also had our pick of swimming spots, there was a protected cove where you could snorkel and also a brackish pond that you could bathe in to rise off the salt.

Sunrise at HalapeSunrise at Halape Morning Coffee Views at HalapeMorning Coffee Views at Halape Halape TidepoolsHalape Tidepools Halape BeachHalape Beach Tiki at HalapeTiki at Halape Spinx Moth CaterpillarSpinx Moth Caterpillar Brackish Ponds at HalapeBrackish Ponds at Halape

Our camp had a private trail to the beach with a spectacular view to watch the sunset.

Sunset Stroll at HalapeSunset Stroll at Halape Sunset at Halape (2)Sunset at Halape (2) Halape Campspot (2)Halape Campspot (2)

The second morning we packed up and headed towards 'Apua Point. There wouldn't be any water the rest of the trip, so we loaded up as much as we could carry and set off early to beat the head of the day.

Sunrise from our Camp Spot HalepeSunrise from our Camp Spot Halepe Backpacking to KeahouBackpacking to Keahou Backpacking to Keahou (2)Backpacking to Keahou (2) Backpacker on the CCC wall to KeahouBackpacker on the CCC wall to Keahou Corrie at Apua PointCorrie at Apua Point Apua PointApua Point

Since we arrived so early, we hung our tent fly between some trees to make shade and took a nap in the breeze. If was a fairly windy day and the waves were picking up. We got a little afternoon shower, which cooled things off a bit. We hiked out to the ocean to watch the waves crash over the rocks as the sun set.

Follow the Lava Brick RoadFollow the Lava Brick Road Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats PortraitEvening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats Portrait Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats (2)Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats (2) Evening Light at Apua Point WavesEvening Light at Apua Point Waves Evening Light at Apua Point Waves (2)Evening Light at Apua Point Waves (2) Evening Light at Apua Point Waves (3)Evening Light at Apua Point Waves (3) Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats (3)Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats (3) Sunset at Apua PointSunset at Apua Point

The warm breeze and the full moon made it nice to walk around that evening too.

Apua Point CampspotApua Point Campspot

The last day of travel was mostly across pahoehoe and we were running low on water. We packed up at sunrise and headed for the car. The views along the coast we gorgeous, which included a couple sea arches and petroglyphs.

Sea Arch Sunrise Near Apua PointSea Arch Sunrise Near Apua Point Corrie on the Lava FieldsCorrie on the Lava Fields Petroglyphs Near Apua PointPetroglyphs Near Apua Point Petroglyphs Near Apua Point (2)Petroglyphs Near Apua Point (2)

Trip notes: We hiked just over 19 miles with just shy of 1,300' of elevation gain. Since this hike is in the park, it does require a permit. Also, most of the backcountry sites have water tanks that fill with rainwater. The winter isn't the rainy season and the rangers warned us there might not be any water to filter.

If you get the chance to stay at Halapē, make sure to bring a mask and snorkel. Seems like a weird thing to backpack with, but you'll be able to snorkel in the bay. Overall great trip, definitely recommend!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Hawai'i Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/2/hilina-pali-puna-coast Wed, 03 Feb 2016 03:58:00 GMT
Koke'e State Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/1/kokee We visited Koke'e State Park in 2011 for a couple days of camping. We enjoyed ourselves, but it rains so much that we decided that if we ever visited again, we should look into renting one of the cabins they have. So that exactly what we did. We stayed five days and watched a few sunrises and sunsets, hiked a bunch of trails, birded, and looked for wildflowers. Here are my favorite photos from the trip. Enjoy!

Fern FiddleheadFern Fiddlehead FushiasFushias IMG_1398IMG_1398 NasterciumNastercium Banana Poke WeedBanana Poke Weed Native BegoniaNative Begonia Angel's TrumpetsAngel's Trumpets Glory BushGlory Bush HydrangeaHydrangea Self Portrait -Nu'alolo LookoutSelf Portrait -Nu'alolo Lookout Kalalau OverlookKalalau Overlook First Look at Waimea CanyonFirst Look at Waimea Canyon Waipo'o FallsWaipo'o Falls Kalalau OverlookKalalau Overlook Two Dimension PortraitTwo Dimension Portrait Kalalau Overlook PortraitKalalau Overlook Portrait Kalalau Overlook (2)Kalalau Overlook (2) Lehua SunriseLehua Sunrise Sunrise from Wai'ale'aleSunrise from Wai'ale'ale Hazy View from Wai'ale'aleHazy View from Wai'ale'ale Views from the Pihea TrailViews from the Pihea Trail Views from Wai'ale'aleViews from Wai'ale'ale Kauai Elepaio - Chasiempis sclateriKauai Elepaio - Chasiempis sclateri Morning Fog RaysMorning Fog Rays Morning Fog Rays (2)Morning Fog Rays (2) Forest Trail Koke'e TreesForest Trail Koke'e Trees Pacific golden plover - Pluvialis fulvaPacific golden plover - Pluvialis fulva Golden PloverGolden Plover Waimea Canyon and Waipo'o FallsWaimea Canyon and Waipo'o Falls Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon LookoutVog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout Vog Sunrise in Waimea CanyonVog Sunrise in Waimea Canyon Waimea Canyon Voggy Sunrise PanoramaWaimea Canyon Voggy Sunrise Panorama Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (2)Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (2) Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (3)Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (3) Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (4)Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (4) Vog Sunrise in Waimea Canyon (2)Vog Sunrise in Waimea Canyon (2) Views from the Canyon Rim TrailViews from the Canyon Rim Trail Arches on the Fins of Waimea CanyonArches on the Fins of Waimea Canyon Brink of Waipo'o FallsBrink of Waipo'o Falls Waipo'o Falls Brink and Waimea CanyonWaipo'o Falls Brink and Waimea Canyon Waipo'o CreekWaipo'o Creek Waipo'o Creek and Waimea CanyonWaipo'o Creek and Waimea Canyon Waipo'o Creek and Waimea Canyon (2)Waipo'o Creek and Waimea Canyon (2) Waimea Canyon From Canyon TrailheadWaimea Canyon From Canyon Trailhead Waimean Canyon ColorsWaimean Canyon Colors Waimea Canyon Sunset from Canyon TrailheadWaimea Canyon Sunset from Canyon Trailhead Waimea Canyon Colors PortraitWaimea Canyon Colors Portrait Waimea Canyon Rim Trail PortraitWaimea Canyon Rim Trail Portrait Waimea Canyon Rim TrailWaimea Canyon Rim Trail Waimean Canyon Sunrise at Canyon OverlookWaimean Canyon Sunrise at Canyon Overlook IMG_7257 IMG_7265

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Hawai'i koke'e state park na pali coast state park photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/1/kokee Sun, 24 Jan 2016 03:54:00 GMT
Glacier: Top 100 from 2015 https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/1/Glacier-top-2015 It's been a spectacular year (9 months) since I have moved to Columbia Falls. It was a great year of meeting new people, learning new things, and exploring one of my favorite parks in the lower 48. I picked my top 100 photos from the year and put them in chronological order. I hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I enjoyed taking them! Here's to a great 2016. If you are in the area be sure to look me up, let's go shoot!

Mergansers over Lake McDonaldMergansers over Lake McDonald Lake McDonald SunsetLake McDonald Sunset Crashing Waves on Lake McDonaldCrashing Waves on Lake McDonald Lake McDonald Shoreline SunsetLake McDonald Shoreline Sunset Lake McDonald ShorelineLake McDonald Shoreline Afternoon Light Along North Fork RoadAfternoon Light Along North Fork Road Eagle with Coot SunsetEagle with Coot Sunset Morning Reflections at Lake McDonaldMorning Reflections at Lake McDonald Harlequin Duck (Long exposure)Harlequin Duck (Long exposure) Lake McDonald Dock and AuroraLake McDonald Dock and Aurora Aurora Arc on Lake McDonaldAurora Arc on Lake McDonald Aurora Reflections on Lake McDonald PanoramaAurora Reflections on Lake McDonald Panorama Red-necked Grebe and Mount Brown AlpenglowRed-necked Grebe and Mount Brown Alpenglow Red-necked Grebe - Podiceps grisegenaRed-necked Grebe - Podiceps grisegena Avalanche Lake SunsetAvalanche Lake Sunset Lake McDonald Sunrise 4-29-15Lake McDonald Sunrise 4-29-15 Mule Deer and Lake McDonald SunsetMule Deer and Lake McDonald Sunset Moonrise over Camas RoadMoonrise over Camas Road Lead Image Many Glacier HotelLead Image Many Glacier Hotel Lake SherburneLake Sherburne Lake McDonald Sunset - 5:26:15Lake McDonald Sunset - 5:26:15 Foggy Lake McDonaldFoggy Lake McDonald Dark-eyed Junco NestDark-eyed Junco Nest Bald Eagle and ChickBald Eagle and Chick Avalanche GorgeAvalanche Gorge Birdwoman Falls (2)Birdwoman Falls (2) Haystack Creek Falls from GTSRHaystack Creek Falls from GTSR Ali on Numa Fire Lookout TrailAli on Numa Fire Lookout Trail Bald Eagle near Lake McDonaldBald Eagle near Lake McDonald Two Medicine LakeTwo Medicine Lake Chipmunk eating FlowerheadChipmunk eating Flowerhead Rufous Hummingbird Female on Nest (2)Rufous Hummingbird Female on Nest (2) Hikers on Oberline SummitHikers on Oberline Summit Alpine Avens on OberlinAlpine Avens on Oberlin Backlight GnatsBacklight Gnats Swiftcurrent Lake SunriseSwiftcurrent Lake Sunrise Baring Falls StillBaring Falls Still Virginia FallsVirginia Falls Shooting Stars at Virginia FallsShooting Stars at Virginia Falls Wild Goos Island OverlookWild Goos Island Overlook Smokey Wild Goose Island OVerlook PanoramaSmokey Wild Goose Island OVerlook Panorama Lake McDonald - August 6, 2015Lake McDonald - August 6, 2015 Bighorn Sheep at Logan (2)Bighorn Sheep at Logan (2) Lewis Monkey Flowers and Reynolds AlpenglowLewis Monkey Flowers and Reynolds Alpenglow Going-to-the-Sun Alpenglow and WIldflowersGoing-to-the-Sun Alpenglow and WIldflowers Hiker Under Milky WayHiker Under Milky Way Flowers and Milky WayFlowers and Milky Way Tree Pose at Lake McDonaldTree Pose at Lake McDonald Upper Lake McDonald Valley SunsetUpper Lake McDonald Valley Sunset Haze over Lake McDonaldHaze over Lake McDonald Milky Way and AuroraMilky Way and Aurora Portrait of a KidPortrait of a Kid Marmot on a RockMarmot on a Rock Early Afternoon at Hidden LakeEarly Afternoon at Hidden Lake Evening Light at Hidden LakeEvening Light at Hidden Lake Evening at Hidden LakeEvening at Hidden Lake Hidden Lake PanoramaHidden Lake Panorama Hidden Creek Valley SunsetHidden Creek Valley Sunset DeSmet ProfileDeSmet Profile Lake McDonald Lodge LobbyLake McDonald Lodge Lobby Blood Moon over Snyder RidgeBlood Moon over Snyder Ridge Split Level near first PulloutSplit Level near first Pullout Sunrise up the Saint Mary ValleySunrise up the Saint Mary Valley Reynolds Creek SunriseReynolds Creek Sunrise Saint Mary Lake ShorelineSaint Mary Lake Shoreline Wild Goose IslandWild Goose Island Aspen Grove SunburstAspen Grove Sunburst Fall in Lake McDonald Valley PanoramaFall in Lake McDonald Valley Panorama Heavens Peak SunsetHeavens Peak Sunset Heavens Peak Red Sky SunsetHeavens Peak Red Sky Sunset Sunset at the Remnants of Clements GlacierSunset at the Remnants of Clements Glacier Going-to-the-Sun Mountain and Blood Moon Double-exposureGoing-to-the-Sun Mountain and Blood Moon Double-exposure Blood Supermoon - Milky Way Double Exposure 9.27.15Blood Supermoon - Milky Way Double Exposure 9.27.15 Lake McDonald Fall ShorelineLake McDonald Fall Shoreline Sunrise over Glacier National ParkSunrise over Glacier National Park Golden LayersGolden Layers Mount Brown and Mount Brown Fire LookoutMount Brown and Mount Brown Fire Lookout Looking Down on Grinnell GlacierLooking Down on Grinnell Glacier Grinnell Glacier, The Garden Wall, and Heavens Peak in the DistanceGrinnell Glacier, The Garden Wall, and Heavens Peak in the Distance Swiftcurrent Lookout From the AirSwiftcurrent Lookout From the Air Grinnell, Salamander, and Gem GlaciersGrinnell, Salamander, and Gem Glaciers Mount Reynolds and Logan Pass AreaMount Reynolds and Logan Pass Area Mount Jackson and Harrison GlacierMount Jackson and Harrison Glacier Mount Stimpson and Mount St. NicholasMount Stimpson and Mount St. Nicholas Saint Mary Lake (2)Saint Mary Lake (2) Logan, Pumpelly, Blakfoot, and Harrison GlaciersLogan, Pumpelly, Blakfoot, and Harrison Glaciers Flinsch Peak in Two MedicineFlinsch Peak in Two Medicine Little Dog and Summit MountainLittle Dog and Summit Mountain Mount St. NicholasMount St. Nicholas Lake McDonald HomecomingLake McDonald Homecoming Avalanche Lake 11-15-15Avalanche Lake 11-15-15 Lake McDonald Fall Sunset 11.16.15Lake McDonald Fall Sunset 11.16.15 Driftwood Sunset PanoramaDriftwood Sunset Panorama Lake McDonald Morning 11.20.15Lake McDonald Morning 11.20.15 Lake McDonald Sunset Wide Angle 11.20.15Lake McDonald Sunset Wide Angle 11.20.15 Alpenglow at Lake McDonald 11.20.15Alpenglow at Lake McDonald 11.20.15 Sunset on Vaught, Cannon, and BrownSunset on Vaught, Cannon, and Brown Alpenglow Over Lake McDonald ValleyAlpenglow Over Lake McDonald Valley Stanton, Vaught, and McPartland from Lake McDonald LodgeStanton, Vaught, and McPartland from Lake McDonald Lodge Self-portrait - Relaxing on the DockSelf-portrait - Relaxing on the Dock

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Glacier National Park Montana photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2016/1/Glacier-top-2015 Sun, 10 Jan 2016 03:04:00 GMT
Glacier: Sunrise Overflight https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/10/glacier-overflight-2015 A friend of mine Andy Austin, was in town scouting for Keith Ladzinzki on an assignment for Nat Geo. In addition to shooting a bunch of locations from the ground, they planned an overflight during their trip. Unfortunately for Andy, the weather didn't cooperate for their flight and he had to leave for another shoot. Fortunately for me, Keith stayed longer and asked me to come on the flight to guide the pilot. 

We took off before sunrise and just as we made our way to the park, the sun came up over the inversion. We spent the next 90 minutes flying, photographing the mountains and glaciers. It was so cool to see the park from the air. Here are my favorite shots from the trip. Enjoy!

Sunrise and the Great NorthernerSunrise and the Great Northerner Golden LayersGolden Layers Smoke Filled Valley SunriseSmoke Filled Valley Sunrise Mount Brown and Mount Brown Fire LookoutMount Brown and Mount Brown Fire Lookout Western Front with Mount St. Nicholas in the DistanceWestern Front with Mount St. Nicholas in the Distance Mount Brown and Sperry GlacierMount Brown and Sperry Glacier Sperry GlacierSperry Glacier Logan Pass area at SunriseLogan Pass area at Sunrise Looking Down on Grinnell GlacierLooking Down on Grinnell Glacier Grinnell Glacier, The Garden Wall, and Heavens Peak in the DistanceGrinnell Glacier, The Garden Wall, and Heavens Peak in the Distance Mount Merritt and Old Sun GlacierMount Merritt and Old Sun Glacier Ipasha Peak and Ahern GlacierIpasha Peak and Ahern Glacier Swiftcurrent Lookout From the AirSwiftcurrent Lookout From the Air Grinnell, Salamander, and Gem GlaciersGrinnell, Salamander, and Gem Glaciers Mount Gould and GlaciersMount Gould and Glaciers Overlooking Logan Pass AreaOverlooking Logan Pass Area Pollock Mountain and Garden WallPollock Mountain and Garden Wall Mount Reynolds and Logan Pass AreaMount Reynolds and Logan Pass Area Mount Jackson and Harrison GlacierMount Jackson and Harrison Glacier Mount Stimpson and Mount St. NicholasMount Stimpson and Mount St. Nicholas Saint Mary LakeSaint Mary Lake Saint Mary Lake (2)Saint Mary Lake (2) Mount Jackson and Jackson GlacierMount Jackson and Jackson Glacier Logan, Pumpelly, Blakfoot, and Harrison GlaciersLogan, Pumpelly, Blakfoot, and Harrison Glaciers Flinsch Peak in Two MedicineFlinsch Peak in Two Medicine Mount StimpsonMount Stimpson Little Dog and Summit Mountain PortraitLittle Dog and Summit Mountain Portrait Little Dog and Summit MountainLittle Dog and Summit Mountain Mount St. NicholasMount St. Nicholas Mount St. Nicholas (2)Mount St. Nicholas (2)

Update: A few months later, the issue came out and I picked up a copy. It was pretty awesome to see two full photo spreads with shots from the flight.

IMG_9794IMG_9794 IMG_9795IMG_9795

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Glacier National Park Montana overflights https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/10/glacier-overflight-2015 Sat, 17 Oct 2015 19:10:00 GMT
Wrangell-St. Elias: Scenic Overflights https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/7/Wrangell-overflights With our backpacking trip into Donoho Basin complete and our trip into Bremner Mining Camp a few days out, we thought a couple scenic overflights were in order. It’s amazing what we saw up there. I think I am forever ruined about what will excite me in the future. I can’t remember the last time I felt so blown away by what I was seeing. Oh wait, yes I can. It was in Denali looking at the Mountain. Alaska is awesome. The first flight we would head south to the Tana River, to the Tana Glacier, Bagley Icefield, and Icy Bay before heading back along Baldwin and Chitina Glaciers. It was roughly 350 air miles.

Screen Shot 2023-12-31 at 8.13.55 AMScreen Shot 2023-12-31 at 8.13.55 AM Nizina River and Kennicott River ConfluenceNizina River and Kennicott River Confluence Granite Creek TarnGranite Creek Tarn West Fork of the Tana RiverWest Fork of the Tana River Approaching the Tana GlacierApproaching the Tana Glacier Unnamed Tributary Glacier Near Tana Glacier TerminusUnnamed Tributary Glacier Near Tana Glacier Terminus Western Tributary Tana Glacier (2)Western Tributary Tana Glacier (2) Bagley Icefielf and Waxell RidgeBagley Icefielf and Waxell Ridge Bering Glacier Looking SouthwestBering Glacier Looking Southwest Barkley Ridge Along Bagley IcefieldBarkley Ridge Along Bagley Icefield Barkley Ridge Along Bagley Icefield (3)Barkley Ridge Along Bagley Icefield (3) Guyot GlacierGuyot Glacier Guyot Glacier and Icy Bay (3)Guyot Glacier and Icy Bay (3) Guyot Glacier, Falls, Icy Bay, and Mount St. EliasGuyot Glacier, Falls, Icy Bay, and Mount St. Elias Robinson Mountains and Guyot GlacierRobinson Mountains and Guyot Glacier Robinson Mountains and Guyot Glacier (2)Robinson Mountains and Guyot Glacier (2) Guyot Hills, Guyot Glacier, Icy Bay, and Mount St. EliasGuyot Hills, Guyot Glacier, Icy Bay, and Mount St. Elias Guyot Hills, Icy Bay, and Mount St. Elias (2)Guyot Hills, Icy Bay, and Mount St. Elias (2) Guyot Glacier CrevassesGuyot Glacier Crevasses Icy Bay, Tyndall Glacier, and Mount St. Elias (2)Icy Bay, Tyndall Glacier, and Mount St. Elias (2) Chaix HillsChaix Hills Agassiz LakesAgassiz Lakes Mount St. EliasMount St. Elias Mount St. Elias (2)Mount St. Elias (2) Columbus GlacierColumbus Glacier Fraser Glacier TributaryFraser Glacier Tributary Fraser GlacierFraser Glacier Baldwin Glacier and Fraser Glacier Confluence (3)Baldwin Glacier and Fraser Glacier Confluence (3) Tributary Glacier of Baldwin GlacierTributary Glacier of Baldwin Glacier Logan Glacier and Walsh Glacier Confluence (2)Logan Glacier and Walsh Glacier Confluence (2) Mount Chitina and Logan GlacierMount Chitina and Logan Glacier Mount Chitina and Logan Glacier (4)Mount Chitina and Logan Glacier (4) Chitina GlacierChitina Glacier Chitina Glacier (3)Chitina Glacier (3) Barnard Glacier (3)Barnard Glacier (3) Unnamed Eastern Tributary Glacier to Hawkins GlacierUnnamed Eastern Tributary Glacier to Hawkins Glacier Hawkins Glacier HeadHawkins Glacier Head West side of Hawkins GlacierWest side of Hawkins Glacier Pyramid Peak and RainbowPyramid Peak and Rainbow Pyramid Peak Western FlankPyramid Peak Western Flank Nizina River and Chitistone River ConfluenceNizina River and Chitistone River Confluence Stairway Icefall (2)Stairway Icefall (2) Donoho PeakDonoho Peak Gates Glacier and Kennicott Glacier ConfluenceGates Glacier and Kennicott Glacier Confluence

After landing and grabbing lunch we headed back up in the air and out towards Tebay Lakes, the Bremner River, Fan Glacier, then north past the Chitina River to Hidden Creek and the Kennicott Glacier. This flight was about 185 air miles.

Screen Shot 2023-12-31 at 8.18.12 AMScreen Shot 2023-12-31 at 8.18.12 AM Chitina River Below the Nizina River ConfluenceChitina River Below the Nizina River Confluence Tebay River and Lower Tebay LakeTebay River and Lower Tebay Lake Lower Tebay Lake (2)Lower Tebay Lake (2) Falls Creek (2)Falls Creek (2) Little Bremner Glacier, Little Bremner River, and Tebay Falls (2)Little Bremner Glacier, Little Bremner River, and Tebay Falls (2) Tebay Lakes (2)Tebay Lakes (2) Little Bremner Glacier South ArmLittle Bremner Glacier South Arm Bremner River (3)Bremner River (3) Fan Glacier (2)Fan Glacier (2) Southern Tributary Klu RiverSouthern Tributary Klu River Klu RIverKlu RIver Steamboat CreekSteamboat Creek Chitina River Below the Nizina River and Chakina River ConfluencesChitina River Below the Nizina River and Chakina River Confluences Fireweed Mountain and Lakina RiverFireweed Mountain and Lakina River Lakina Glacier TributaryLakina Glacier Tributary Hidden CreekHidden Creek Geology Hidden Creek Drainage (2)Geology Hidden Creek Drainage (2) Lakina Glacier Tributary (2)Lakina Glacier Tributary (2) Kennicott Glacier Medial MorainesKennicott Glacier Medial Moraines Kennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek ValleyKennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek Valley Kennicott Glacier TerminusKennicott Glacier Terminus

After this flight, we headed into the backcountry for our Bremner Mining Camp trip. Also, great trip and weather. After that trip, the weather made a turn for the worse and we were worried that if we did another air-supported backcountry trip, we might get stuck and not make our flight back home from Anchorage. So we called an audible and decided to hang around McCarthy and do one last scenic flight. The weather was a little iffy, but since we didn’t have a particular agenda for this flight we were able to seek out the good weather. We went up the Nizina River to the Nizina, Federika, and Russel Glaciers via Skolai pass and then over to the Bonanza Ridge area including the Stairway Icefall, Root/Gates/Kennicott glaciers. The lighting wasn’t as spectacular as the other flights, but it was still a good opportunity to shoot some other areas of the park we had yet to see. It was also about 185 air miles.

Screen Shot 2023-12-31 at 8.15.54 AMScreen Shot 2023-12-31 at 8.15.54 AM Nizina RiverNizina River Unnamed Falls on the Nizini RiverUnnamed Falls on the Nizini River Iceberg Lake at the Nizina Glacier ToeIceberg Lake at the Nizina Glacier Toe Nizina Glacier Crevasses (2)Nizina Glacier Crevasses (2) Rohn Glacier Looking Up ValleyRohn Glacier Looking Up Valley Rohn Glacier Looking Down Valley (2)Rohn Glacier Looking Down Valley (2) Unnamed Rohn Glacier Tributary Looking Down ValleyUnnamed Rohn Glacier Tributary Looking Down Valley Skolai Pass AreaSkolai Pass Area Skolai CreekSkolai Creek Russell GlacierRussell Glacier Russell Glacier TerminusRussell Glacier Terminus Russell Glacier Terminus and Wiley CreekRussell Glacier Terminus and Wiley Creek Skolai Creek (2)Skolai Creek (2) Nizina Glacier - Confluence of Rohn and Regal GlaciersNizina Glacier - Confluence of Rohn and Regal Glaciers Nizina Glacier and RiverNizina Glacier and River Nizina River and Mile High CliffsNizina River and Mile High Cliffs West Fork of the Nizina RiverWest Fork of the Nizina River Mile High Cliffs GeologyMile High Cliffs Geology Bonanza Mine TrailBonanza Mine Trail Jumbo MineJumbo Mine Bonanza Ridge and Errie MineBonanza Ridge and Errie Mine Root Glacier OgivesRoot Glacier Ogives Donoho Peak Colors (2)Donoho Peak Colors (2) Upper Gates GlacierUpper Gates Glacier Packsaddle IslandPacksaddle Island La Chapelle Glacier CrevassesLa Chapelle Glacier Crevasses Kennicott GlacierKennicott Glacier Kennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek ValleyKennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek Valley Kennicott Glacier above Confluence with Root GlacierKennicott Glacier above Confluence with Root Glacier

I mentioned earlier that we were also supposed to hit Skolai Pass area for backpacking. I didn’t really know what I was missing until this flight. If you go to Wrangell for a fly-in trip, Skolai is like a mini Switzerland. If I get the chance to go back I hope that I can get a few days in that area.

After that flight our trip was pretty much over. We headed back to Anchorage to drop off the car. Then we headed out for some celebratory drinks. On my 3rd beer I felt REALLY tipsy, even sitting down. I looked at my drink and thought to myself, I better slow down here a little. Then I looked up and realized that I wasn’t the only one feeling this way. It wasn’t the alcohol making me feel tipsy, but rather we were in the middle of a 6.3 magnitude earthquake. The ENTIRE building was shaking and people started standing up. Apparently that is a thing? After that we headed out to dinner and had a few more drinks before calling it a night to make our early flights the next morning.

Overall I shot around 6500 photos in 10 days pairing that down to about 500. The majority of those shots came during the scenic flights. It was totally amazing to see this park from the air. You lose all sense of scale when you are up there. Mountains that look close enough to crash into are a quarter mile away. Icebergs the size of houses are just dots in the bay. It’s the only way to really “see” the majority of the park. It’s a wild and untamed place. You could take any individual feature from this park whether it’s a mountain, waterfall, glacier, lake, etc. and place it in the lower 48 and it would be its own National Park. But here, it’s just another unnamed feature. Alaska really is the last frontier. It’s so freaking big and majestic that you can’t help but be humbled by it.

Cheers and happy travels!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska overflights Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/7/Wrangell-overflights Sat, 01 Aug 2015 02:58:00 GMT
Wrangell-St. Elias: Bremner Mining Camp https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/7/Bremner-Mining-Camp We took a couple days after our Donoho Basin trip to explore the Kennicott area and take some scenic flights. The next day we planned to fly into Bremner historic mining district where we would be camping for the next 3 days. We were concerned about getting stuck without a good weather window, out so we packed to spend a few extra days out there. So we brought everything including a case of beer. We had a late arrival due to our plane breaking down just before takeoff (That’s not what you want to hear about your plane before you get in it). So when we landed we spent the remaining time exploring the area around camp and hit the sack.

Backpackers Watching their Flight LeaveBackpackers Watching their Flight LeaveNPS / Jacob W. Frank Taking off from Bremner Landing Strip (2)Taking off from Bremner Landing Strip (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Campsite (2)Bremner Campsite (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers of Bremner (6)Wildflowers of Bremner (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Dinner Near Bremner Landing StripDinner Near Bremner Landing StripNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The next day we woke up and explored around camp for a short while before heading up to the Bremner bunkhouse and checking out all the historic garbage. When I say garbage I mean artifacts including buildings, a powerhouse, cars, tractors, stoves, tools, etc. All very cool, very heavy stuff. It’s crazy they were able to get everything out to this remote spot. The stuff is so cool in fact that they hire volunteers to live on site and make sure people don’t steal anything. We met the volunteers, and their dog companion, and had a great time chatting about their experiences so far. The wildflowers were also still blooming despite a rather dry summer so I was excited to see all the familiar faces.

Wildflowers of Bremner (3)Wildflowers of Bremner (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Mine EquipmentBremner Mine EquipmentNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Historic DistrictBremner Historic DistrictNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiking from the Landing Strip (3)Hiking from the Landing Strip (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner CrossBremner CrossNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner VehiclesBremner VehiclesNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Equipment (2)Bremner Equipment (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner ToolsBremner ToolsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Inside Dry HouseInside Dry HouseNPS / Jacob W. Frank Powerhouse Equipment (4)Powerhouse Equipment (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Powerhouse EquipmentPowerhouse EquipmentNPS / Jacob W. Frank

From the mining camp we headed up to one of the area tarns that was used as an aqueduct for the area water. Along the way we saw some nice waterfalls, cool animals like ptarmigan, pika, and marmots, and some great views of the mountains. Once we were done we headed back to the bunkhouse and made a plan to hike with the volunteer couple the following day.

Waterfalls Along the Aqueduct (2)Waterfalls Along the Aqueduct (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Hoary MarmotHoary MarmotNPS / Jacob W. Frank Collared Pika (3) - Ochotona collarisCollared Pika (3) - Ochotona collarisNPS / Jacob W. Frank Collared Pika (2) - Ochotona collarisCollared Pika (2) - Ochotona collarisNPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers Along Shore of Tarn Above AqueductWildflowers Along Shore of Tarn Above AqueductNPS / Jacob W. Frank Historic Tools in BremnerHistoric Tools in BremnerNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hikers Along Shore of Tarn Above AqueductHikers Along Shore of Tarn Above AqueductNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiker in Aqueduct DrainageHiker in Aqueduct DrainageNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The next day we woke up to the entire valley covered in fog. We took the old mining road up to another site where they used to mine for gold. As we went up in elevation we hike out of the fog and the sun was burning off what remained. Immediately when we made it into the cirque basin I noticed more pika, ptarmigan, and marmots. The ptarmigan were everywhere in fact. We noticed that the rock ptarmigan at higher elevations were not as skittish as the willow ptarmigan at lower elevations. In fact they seemed to like us. We even had a few chicks walk right up to us and scope us out.

Camping in the FogCamping in the FogNPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers of Bremner (7)Wildflowers of Bremner (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Old Chevy in the Bremner DistrictOld Chevy in the Bremner DistrictNPS / Jacob W. Frank Rock Ptarmigan and Chicks - Lagopus mutaRock Ptarmigan and Chicks - Lagopus mutaNPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers of BremnerWildflowers of BremnerNPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a beautiful day of hiking we headed back to camp and waited for the plane to pick us up. Once we were back in McCarthy we headed out for dinner to celebrate another great backcountry trip!

Taking off from Bremner Landing StripTaking off from Bremner Landing StripNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Trip notes: We didn't really have an agenda for this area, so we mostly meandered. We still ended up hiking around nine miles total. This was also my first "backcountry" trip being flown in. It was really nice to be able to camp heavy and still have the backcountry feel. Obviously this method is cost-prohibitive, but if you get the chance to do it, this was a cool trip, and I also hear that Skolai Pass area is beautiful. Thanks for reading!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/7/Bremner-Mining-Camp Sun, 26 Jul 2015 02:58:00 GMT
Wrangell-St. Elias: Donoho Basin https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/3/donoho-basin We flew into Anchorage, picked up supplies for two weeks, and then headed to the park. The initial plan was to head out to Donaho Basin for a backpacking trip, shoot some scenic overflights, then spend another few days in the Bremner Mining Camp and Skolai Pass. Inevitably, there were some bumps in the road but we were able to figure everything out as we went along.

If you’ve never been to the park, Wrangell is 13.2 million acres, the largest national park in the United States, roughly the size of Switzerland. Access is limited. There is only one main road into the center of the park, which dead ends in the town of Kennicott, a historic copper mining area. This is where we would be based out of for the next 10 days. We spent the first night in the Lodge and then packed for our backpack trip out to Donoho Basin.

Bohemian waxwing - Bombycilla garrulusBohemian waxwing - Bombycilla garrulus Tundra Swans - Cygnus columbianusTundra Swans - Cygnus columbianus Kennicott Glacier view from Hotel PorchKennicott Glacier view from Hotel Porch

In order to get the Donoho basin you need to traverse the Root glacier using crampons, roughly 1 mile wide. Once on the west side of the glacier, there is a route towards series of unnamed lakes.  This is where we planned to camp because there are bear boxes. We had a bit of a late start but weren’t too worried since the sun wasn’t setting until 11pm. Hiking across the Root Glacier was a very unique experience. I have traveled next to glaciers and under glaciers, but never on a glacier. It felt exactly as I thought it would, walking on a giant piece of ice. It was fairly slow going because of the difficulty of the terrain, but also because of how scenic it was. 

Hikers on the Root GlacierHikers on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (8)Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (9)Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Pool on the Root GlacierPool on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (12)Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (13)Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (13)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Views from the Root Glacier (3)Views from the Root Glacier (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Views from the Root Glacier (5)Views from the Root Glacier (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We walked over rivers, along lakes, navigated through crevasses, and over moraines (all on the glacier) until we finally reached the other side. From there we needed to make a decision whether to camp or to continue to push on to the next campsite. Since it was only 5 o’clock and the map said we had 3 miles to go, we made the decision to continue. For those of you who have hiked off-trail bushwhacking in Alaska, you know that 3 miles is no easy task. We hiked, and hiked, and hiked some more, and it seemed that we were barely moving.  When one of our team members fell ill from food poisoning the night before, we decided that we would not make it to the bear boxes that we hoped to camp at and found trees to tie our food up into instead. Once camp was set up and we made dinner it was about 10:30 PM. I can honestly say that it was one of the most difficult hikes that I’ve ever done, not because of the elevation or distance, but rather the difficulty in pushing through the bush with a significantly large and heavy pack. It seemed all the branches were reaching out to touch me and say, “Slow down, take it all in. There is no need to go so fast.” Ughh.

Lake 2 Creek Sunset and Mount BlackburnLake 2 Creek Sunset and Mount BlackburnNPS / Jacob W. Frank Mount Blackburn and Donoho Peak from Lake 2Mount Blackburn and Donoho Peak from Lake 2NPS / Jacob W. Frank Fireweed Sunset at Lake 2Fireweed Sunset at Lake 2NPS / Jacob W. Frank

When I woke up the next day and stuck my head out of the tent it was apparent that had made the right decision to push on. It was a beautiful sunrise with the perfectly still lake. It looked as if it were going to be great weather all day. We grabbed breakfast, packed our daypacks, and headed further up valley towards Gates Glacier. As we made it past the second lake and eventually to the third lake we were directly alongside the Kennicott glacier. The 16K ft foot mountain Mt. Blackburn rose in the distance behind a sea of ice.

Morning Reflections from Lake 2 - Donoho BasinMorning Reflections from Lake 2 - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Gates Glacier From Lake 3 - Donoho BasinGates Glacier From Lake 3 - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiker viewing Kennicott Glacier near Wilderness Boundary - Donoho BasinHiker viewing Kennicott Glacier near Wilderness Boundary - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Kennicott Glacier Crevasses with BlackburnKennicott Glacier Crevasses with BlackburnNPS / Jacob W. Frank Kennicott Glacier Lateral View - Donoho BasinKennicott Glacier Lateral View - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiking the Kennicott Glacier Lateral Moraine (2)Hiking the Kennicott Glacier Lateral Moraine (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Kennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek PassKennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek PassNPS / Jacob W. Frank Panoramic View from Wilderness Boundary - Donoho BasinPanoramic View from Wilderness Boundary - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a few hours of day hiking we decided to turn around, pack up camp, and head to our next camp spot alongside the Root Glacier. This time we knew where we were going and we still managed to lose the route and ended up bushwhacking in 10+ ft tall alder. Gotta love AK.

Backpackers Near Lake 2Backpackers Near Lake 2NPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Bushwhacking in Donoho BasinBackpackers Bushwhacking in Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Porphyry Mountain and National Creek Rock Glacier From Donoho BasinPorphyry Mountain and National Creek Rock Glacier From Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Blackburn From Lake 2 - Donoho BasinBlackburn From Lake 2 - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiking the Lateral Morain of Root GlacierHiking the Lateral Morain of Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once we made back to the Root Glacier it was time for a cocktail or two and a little time to soak in the scenery. The next morning we woke to another bluebird day. After grabbing some breakfast we only had to traverse the glacier once more, this time deciding to take an alternate route. Walking on a glacier is like being on a maze of ice. You never know when your route will dead-end. Sometimes you can find a work-around; sometimes you just have to backtrack. It makes for fun, but tiring hiking.

Tent View of the Root GlacierTent View of the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Headed Towards the Root GlacierBackpackers Headed Towards the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Stepping onto the Root GlacierBackpackers Stepping onto the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring a pool on the Root Glacier (2)Backpackers Exploring a pool on the Root Glacier (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Views from the Root GlacierViews from the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (2)Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Ice Climbing on the Root GlacierIce Climbing on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Ice Climbing on the Root Glacier (3)Ice Climbing on the Root Glacier (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Along the way we found some spectacular scenery and the weather was perfect. So much so that I thought I could catch a tan for a little bit.

Sunbathing on the Root Glacier (2)Sunbathing on the Root Glacier (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Swimming on the Root GlacierSwimming on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Trip Notes: We ended up hiking a little more than 16 miles, off-trail, in three days. We never did find the bear boxes we were told about, so it's probably best to just bring bear cans. That will open up more options for camping. We were fortunate with good weather, but if it's raining I would make sure to have full rain gear because of the amount of brush you have to hike through, it was overhead at times. I would also recommend a pack size that allows you to fit all your gear inside your pack, versus attaching things to the outside, since the brush has a way of pick pocketing things from your pack. Overall great trip!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2024/3/donoho-basin Sat, 18 Jul 2015 12:49:00 GMT
Yellowstone National Park in Winter https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/3/Yellowstone-winter Hey everyone, sorry for waiting so long to post but I have been fairly busy moving and I don't have internet these days. I just arrived to my new home in Columbia Falls, MT, and I figure it would be a great time to recap my winter in Gardiner, MT.

Well it came and went pretty fast, and I'm not really sure I would call it a winter. It resembled winter at times, but most of February was over 50ºF everyday. It even rained so hard one day that I thought I had been transplanted back to Florida. Regardless, living near Yellowstone was a very cool experience and I got to see and do some pretty spectacular things. The first and most obvious is the wildlife. I saw loads of bison, elk, deer, coyotes, wolves, pronghorn, a few foxes, some new birds, a even a few weasels. This area is the only place where I have ever been able to use the old, "Sorry I'm late. I couldn't leave my house because there was a bison in the way" line and people don't even bat an eyelash. The park receives over 3.5 Million people per year and only about 120,000 visit in the winter. I have now spent so much more time in the park during the winter that I don't even remember what it looks like in the summer. If you've never been in the winter, I would say this is a pretty accurate representation what you could see in a few days, or in a few hours if you are the lucky type.

I arrived the first week of November and I was very excited about the fact that I was going to be near the park all winter. I had visited the previous winter and had a spectacular time. It was already fairly cold, about -10ºF, but not very much snow on the ground. Our first foray into the park was a drive with some friends down to Norris Geyser Basin just before the road closed to wheeled traffic for the winter. It was awesome to say the least.

RoadblockRoadblock Norris Geyser Basin ReflectionsNorris Geyser Basin Reflections Ghost TreesGhost Trees Front Porch SunriseFront Porch Sunrise

Most of my free time was spent trying to get further in the park. When we did go we usually saw some pretty awesome things.

Bald Eagle - Haliaeetus leucocephalusBald Eagle - Haliaeetus leucocephalus Canary Spring PanoramaCanary Spring Panorama Upper TerracesUpper Terraces Undine FallsUndine Falls Bull Elk in Blacktail FlatsBull Elk in Blacktail Flats Lone Tree in YellowstoneLone Tree in Yellowstone Home on the RangeHome on the Range

My first attempt to find some wolves came one morning after a coworker told me they found a wolf kill in the Gardner River. By the time I had got off work it was already too dark to try and see it so I decided to wake up before sunrise and head down the the river. I was greeted with a pretty spectacular sunrise. You can also notice the lack of snow. 

Lava Creek Trail SunriseLava Creek Trail Sunrise Sheep Mountain Sunrise PanoramaSheep Mountain Sunrise Panorama

When I eventually found the kill site it was almost completely stripped clean. We arrived to ravens and magpies feasting and a lone eagle soaring overhead.

My Favorite Band (of Coyotes)My Favorite Band (of Coyotes)

Then we finally started to get some snow. Not heaps, but enough that the park was able to open up the road for oversnow travel for the season. One of the days I was able to travel to the interior on a coach trip it was it was -35ºF in West Yellowstone, which is where we were heading for the day. But when it's cold in Yellowstone, I think it's the most beautiful. Especially near the thermals.

Natural Black and WhiteNatural Black and White Crepuscular Rays in YellowstoneCrepuscular Rays in Yellowstone

On the way out to West Yellowstone the weather was SPECTACULAR. The Madison was teeming with waterfowl and even though it was extremely cold, the sun kept you just warm enough that you weren't uncomfortable.

Trumpeter Swans on the MadisonTrumpeter Swans on the Madison Coyote on the RoadCoyote on the Road Coyote Near 7-mile BridgeCoyote Near 7-mile Bridge

As the sun started to set, we stopped to get some photos of the views on the ride back to Mammoth.

The Long Road HomeThe Long Road Home

Then the new year rolled around and we got the first real snow of the winter season. A few dumps that totaled over 2 feet over the course of the week and it was starting to look like winter. Also, I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to spend a few days out in Lamar Valley at the Buffalo Ranch for a program on Wolves. The coolest thing I learned was about the history and reintroduction of wolves into the park. Only a week before this program was the 20th anniversary of the reintroduction and little did I know I would be snowshoeing out to the original pen site where the wolves were kept back in 1995. On the trip it was obvious that we were in wolf territory because of all the recent tracks just behind my cabin.

Yellowstone's Deadliest PredatorYellowstone's Deadliest Predator Coyote Tracks in LamarCoyote Tracks in Lamar Snowshoeing in Lamar ValleySnowshoeing in Lamar Valley

The next morning we woke up before the sun and headed deeper into the park to look for wolves. We heard howls at a distance and eventually found wolves, but they were extremely far away. Even though I couldn't see wolves close enough to shoot them (with a camera), it was still a beautiful morning in the valley at -15ºF.

Predawn at the ConfluencePredawn at the Confluence Hoarfrosted TreesHoarfrosted Trees Rams on the RidgeRams on the Ridge

And one even came down a little bit closer to say good morning.

Through the FrostThrough the Frost

The day eventually turned out to be a spectacular day for scenery. Especially near Soda Butte, which is one of my favorite places in the northern part of the park.

Sunny Day at Soda ButteSunny Day at Soda Butte A lone TreeA lone Tree

Winter light in Yellowstone is pretty awesome, especially in Lamar. The light changes so quickly and you shot can change from minute to minute. These two shots were only takes about 15 minutes apart. 

Afternoon in Lamar Valley PanoramaAfternoon in Lamar Valley Panorama Sunset in Lamar ValleySunset in Lamar Valley

It was a great ending to a great day. The next morning we got up early again and headed out to look for wolves. We heard there had been a kill overnight and the wolves were spotted heading south of the road. When we arrived to the scene, we had missed the wolves again but got to see some very cool birds and coyotes pick at the scraps. The pecking order is that the wolves kill, the coyotes scavenge, followed by eagles, ravens, and magpies. We missed the wolves but got to see the rest. 

King of the BirdsKing of the Birds

After leaving the kill site we hiked out to a historic den site where we were able to get a first hand view of what a wolf den site looked like. When we arrived back at the road a passing visitor informed us that there was a "wolf" on the side of the road a few miles back. Now it's not that I don't believe people when they say they see wolves, but because they said it so nonchalantly, I assumed that it must have been a coyote. The person informed us that they had a photo and was happy to show us. Sure enough it was a wolf, so we all piled back into the vehicle and made our way in that direction.

Historic Wolf DenHistoric Wolf Den

When we arrived we were greeted with this lone wolf that hung out for a minute or two before deciding he was bored and leaving the scene. I think it was probably my wildlife highlight of the winter.

Napping on a RockNapping on a Rock Lone Wolf (2)Lone Wolf (2) Shaking off the SnowShaking off the Snow Lone WolfLone Wolf

After that weekend the weather started to change. We stopped getting snow, but it also started to warm drastically. It was getting above freezing as a high everyday so if you wanted to ski, you needed to go early before the snow turned to mashed potatoes. So the best day of skiing we had came on a trip out to Tower Fall. We headed into the park and into the inversion. 

Foggy SunriseFoggy Sunrise Summit Soda at Calcite SpringsSummit Soda at Calcite Springs Tower Fall SkierTower Fall Skier Nature ProvidesNature Provides

My next big trip into the park was getting the opportunity to head over to Hayden Valley. It was another beautiful day outside and even though the snow in Mammoth was mostly gone, Canyon and Hayden receive much more snow and are usually much colder temps also. So when we started out on our trip the snow conditions were pretty bad, but got better by the time we were halfway to Norris. 

Norris Geyser BasinNorris Geyser Basin View from Lookout PointView from Lookout Point Grand Canyon of the YellowstoneGrand Canyon of the Yellowstone Lower Falls from Artist PointLower Falls from Artist Point MeanderingMeandering Swans through the TreesSwans through the Trees

Not long after our trip down to Hayden, I visited Old Faithful for the day. Even though we were inside most of the day, we had a great ride down in the morning and a beautiful sunset on the way back in the evening.

Snowy Gibbon FallsSnowy Gibbon Falls Lone BisonLone Bison Bison on the FireholeBison on the Firehole Beaver Lake SunsetBeaver Lake Sunset

My last snowshoe hike of the season we decided to go find a cave I had heard about. We did end up finding it and we were not disappointed.

Ice CaveIce Cave

The last weekend I was in the park before moving would be the full moon. So as a goodbye trip we decided to grab some beers, drive out into Lamar Valley, and look for a good place to watch the moon rise. We weren't really sure where it was going to happen but right as we made our way past Pebble Creek campground the moon popped over the ridge. We had to wait a few minutes for the clouds to clear, but when they did we were able to grab some great shots. 

Full Moon over Thunderer in YellowstoneFull Moon over Thunderer in Yellowstone

As a cherry on top we got some nice color at sunset as well.

Alpenglow in Lamar ValleyAlpenglow in Lamar Valley

There were things about the winter that could have definitely been better, but most of those things were out of my control. The weather being the main one. I was really hoping for a chance to get out and ski often, but it seemed to snow during the week when I was working, and melt by the time the weekend rolled around. Despite all that, it was an overall great experience and reminded me how spectacular a place Yellowstone is. I really need to get back to the park again during the summer so I can see the park away from the road corridors.

As for now, I am getting excited about the possibility of what this summer brings now that I live in the Glacier area.

Lake McDonald ShorelineLake McDonald Shoreline Crashing Waves on Lake McDonaldCrashing Waves on Lake McDonald Lake McDonald Shoreline SunsetLake McDonald Shoreline Sunset Lake McDonald Valley - March28, 2015Lake McDonald Valley - March28, 2015

Once I find a place to live and settle down I hope to be able to send regular updates. But until then I will keep getting out and shooting whenever I can. I hope this finds you all well and hope to hear from you soon!

-Jake

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) photography Wyoming Yellowstone National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2015/3/Yellowstone-winter Sun, 22 Mar 2015 02:23:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: Top 100 from 2014 https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/11/top-rocky-2014 I hope you enjoy looking at the photos as much as I did taking them. Rocky is a special place... Thanks to everyone who made it a summer to remember! - Jake

Back Yard AlpenglowBack Yard Alpenglow Winter Melting AwayWinter Melting Away   Gem LakeGem Lake   Ypsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin SunsetYpsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin Sunset Moose Cow in the FieldMoose Cow in the Field Broad-tailed Hummingbird - Selasphorus platycercusBroad-tailed Hummingbird - Selasphorus platycercus Meatball SquirrelMeatball Squirrel Wilson's Warbler - Cardellina pusillaWilson's Warbler - Cardellina pusilla American Pipit Ground NestAmerican Pipit Ground Nest Ute Trail Hiker in the AplineUte Trail Hiker in the Apline Ute Trail AlpineUte Trail Alpine Honeymoon Over Bear LakeHoneymoon Over Bear Lake Sprague Lake ReflectionsSprague Lake Reflections Morning in Moraine ParkMorning in Moraine Park View from Sundance MountainView from Sundance Mountain Sunset on Longs PeakSunset on Longs Peak Sunset over Deer MountainSunset over Deer Mountain Meeker and Longs from Estes ConeMeeker and Longs from Estes Cone Sunset and Lava Cliffs From 12K ftSunset and Lava Cliffs From 12K ft Sunset Through the CairnSunset Through the Cairn Sunset on CCYSunset on CCY Elk on Sundance MountainElk on Sundance Mountain Ross Avens in the Evening LightRoss Avens in the Evening Light Hazy Sunset PanoramaHazy Sunset Panorama Hazy Sunset From Sundance MountainHazy Sunset From Sundance Mountain Milky Way and Sky Glow Over Bear LakeMilky Way and Sky Glow Over Bear Lake Pond Near Lake HiyahaPond Near Lake Hiyaha Field of DreamsField of Dreams Geum rossii in the AlpineGeum rossii in the Alpine Elk Calf in the AlpineElk Calf in the Alpine Pika with AvensPika with Avens Bear Lake Sunrise PanoramaBear Lake Sunrise Panorama Napping MarmotNapping Marmot Evening BeersEvening Beers South Ute Trail Ridge Sunset (2)South Ute Trail Ridge Sunset (2) South Ute Trail Ridge SunsetSouth Ute Trail Ridge Sunset Sunrise on Old Fall River RoadSunrise on Old Fall River Road Early Morning on the CCY TrailEarly Morning on the CCY Trail   Avens on Chiquita and YpsilonAvens on Chiquita and Ypsilon   Ridge Walking YpsilonRidge Walking Ypsilon Ross Avens and Never Summer MountainRoss Avens and Never Summer Mountain Old Man of the MountainOld Man of the Mountain The Road HomeThe Road Home The PoolThe Pool Fern Falls LandscapeFern Falls Landscape First View of Lost Creek FallsFirst View of Lost Creek Falls Sunset From Huffer's HillSunset From Huffer's Hill Summit Soda Syndicate on Huffer's HillSummit Soda Syndicate on Huffer's Hill Sunrise at Timberline FallsSunrise at Timberline Falls Jon Overlooking Sky Pond and Loch ValeJon Overlooking Sky Pond and Loch Vale Sharktooth Ridge, Sky Pond, and Lake of GlassSharktooth Ridge, Sky Pond, and Lake of Glass   Sky PondSky Pond   Badger in the Front YardBadger in the Front Yard Continental Divide Near Hallet PeakContinental Divide Near Hallet Peak Hikers on The SharkstoothHikers on The Sharkstooth Group on Andrews GlacierGroup on Andrews Glacier Azure and Inkwell Lakes from IdaAzure and Inkwell Lakes from Ida Summit Sodas on IdaSummit Sodas on Ida Rocky Mountain HighRocky Mountain High Mouth of Dream LakeMouth of Dream Lake Emerald Lake PanoramaEmerald Lake Panorama   Self-portrait Upper Lost Creek FallsSelf-portrait Upper Lost Creek Falls Rocks and Water Near Sky PondRocks and Water Near Sky Pond   Badger in the Front Yard (4)Badger in the Front Yard (4) Butterfly on BistortButterfly on Bistort Top of SundanceTop of Sundance Sundance ProposalSundance Proposal Curious PikaCurious Pika Golden-mantled Ground SquirrelGolden-mantled Ground Squirrel Trevor Hiking Lava Cliffs (2)Trevor Hiking Lava Cliffs (2) Tundra Sunset HikeTundra Sunset Hike Tundra CartwheelTundra Cartwheel Lava Cliffs SunsetLava Cliffs Sunset Crepuscular RaysCrepuscular Rays Sunset From Trail Ridge RoadSunset From Trail Ridge Road Mom and Friends Watching the SunsetMom and Friends Watching the Sunset Self-portrait Chasm ViewSelf-portrait Chasm View Boulderfield SunriseBoulderfield Sunrise Chasm Lake From Chasm ViewChasm Lake From Chasm View Chasm Lake JunctionChasm Lake Junction   Cooling off with some UpslopeCooling off with some Upslope Fogbow on SandbeachFogbow on Sandbeach Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4)Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4)   Thunder Lake at NightThunder Lake at Night Sunrise at Thunder LakeSunrise at Thunder Lake Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4)Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4) First Light at Thunder LakeFirst Light at Thunder Lake Corrie reading the mapCorrie reading the map Wildflowers, cascades, and ChiefsheadWildflowers, cascades, and Chiefshead IMG_4870IMG_4870 Ouzel FallsOuzel Falls   Rams chewing their cudRams chewing their cud Ram in the Sun PanoramaRam in the Sun Panorama Buck Mule DeerBuck Mule Deer    The Upper HandThe Upper Hand Refereeing the MatchRefereeing the Match Moraine ParkMoraine Park Stormy Hallett and FlattopStormy Hallett and Flattop Solitude LakeSolitude Lake    Last Alpine Sunset 2014Last Alpine Sunset 2014

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado photography Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/11/top-rocky-2014 Sat, 08 Nov 2014 14:21:00 GMT
United States Botanic Garden https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/11/US-botanic-garden Hey everyone,

We just got back from a trip to D.C. where I was presenting at Main Interior. The presentation was to highlight my work that was part of an exhibit in the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History. While we were there, we checked out the other museums and I couldn't pass up the chance to explore the US Botanic Garden. It's free to visit, and it's wonderful. Here are a few of my favorite flowers I saw while we were there.

Venus Slipper Orchid - Paphiopedilum De Witt SmithVenus Slipper Orchid - Paphiopedilum De Witt Smith Pacific Parfait Orchid - Oncidium Ron's Rippling DelightPacific Parfait Orchid - Oncidium Ron's Rippling Delight Zygopetalum maculatumZygopetalum maculatum Paphiopedilum victoria-reginaPaphiopedilum victoria-regina Phragmipedium SedeniiPhragmipedium Sedenii Phragmipedium Sedenii Close-upPhragmipedium Sedenii Close-up Bird of Paradise - Strelitzia reginaeBird of Paradise - Strelitzia reginae Rhyncholaeliocattleya Gladys OumaeRhyncholaeliocattleya Gladys Oumae Satin Ribbon Class 13 - Chrysanthemum sp.Satin Ribbon Class 13 - Chrysanthemum sp. Saffina Class 10 - Chrysanthemum sp.Saffina Class 10 - Chrysanthemum sp. Red Wing Class 9 - Chrysanthemum sp.Red Wing Class 9 - Chrysanthemum sp. St. Tropez Class 5 - Chrysanthemum sp.St. Tropez Class 5 - Chrysanthemum sp. Wang's Holcoglossum - Holcoglossum wangiiWang's Holcoglossum - Holcoglossum wangii Bowring's Cattleya - Cattleya bowringianaBowring's Cattleya - Cattleya bowringiana Rhyncholaeliocattleya WalhallaRhyncholaeliocattleya Walhalla Paphiopedilum spPaphiopedilum sp Dendrobium (2) sp.Dendrobium (2) sp. Sun-kissed Orchid - Laeliocattleya Over EasySun-kissed Orchid - Laeliocattleya Over Easy Paphiopedilum primulinumPaphiopedilum primulinum Sierra Peaks Orchid - Odontocidiumsp.Sierra Peaks Orchid - Odontocidiumsp. Grass Leafed Hoya - Hoya retusaGrass Leafed Hoya - Hoya retusa Nepenthes Pitcher Plant - Nepenthes sanguineaNepenthes Pitcher Plant - Nepenthes sanguinea White Pitcher Plant - Sarracenia leucophyllaWhite Pitcher Plant - Sarracenia leucophylla Brassidium sp.Brassidium sp. Cymbidium sp.Cymbidium sp. Dendrobium phalaenopsis ssp. bigibbumDendrobium phalaenopsis ssp. bigibbum The Horned Dendrobia - Dendrobium ceraulaThe Horned Dendrobia - Dendrobium ceraula Miltonia sp.Miltonia sp. Vanda coeruleaVanda coerulea Venus Slipper Orchid - Papiopedilum insigneVenus Slipper Orchid - Papiopedilum insigne

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) photography US Botanic Garden Washington D.C. https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/11/US-botanic-garden Sun, 02 Nov 2014 14:21:00 GMT
Shenandoah, Great Smoky Mountains, Congaree, and D.C. https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/11/East-coast-2014 I recently returned from a short trip to the east coast to see my photos in the Smithsonian and check out a few parks as well. It was pretty much a whirlwind tour.

We arrived in DC, picked up our rental car, and drove towards Shenandoah National Park that night. The drive through Shenandoah was really nice. Even though the fall color in the park was mostly gone, we did find a few spots that still held their leaves. We got a chance to watch the sunrise, get out on a short hike to a couple waterfalls, and check out the new exhibits in the visitor center.

Shenandoah SunriseShenandoah Sunrise First Light on the Fall ColorsFirst Light on the Fall Colors Darj Hollow FallsDarj Hollow Falls

I was surprised to learn that both Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks were created using eminent domain. The history of both parks include some deep-seated resentment for the government, and rightly so. People in Shenandoah were told that they would be able to stay on their land in the newly created park, then that decision was reversed by the next administration. I was also surprised to learn that Shenandoah was also home to a campground that was only for "negroes." I'm glad that the national park doesn't shy away from topics that may be uncomfortable to discuss because it is a reminder that segregation is not in our too distant past and that racism was an institutional part of our government. From there we headed to Pigeon Forge to stay for the night.

Now I won't get into it too much, but WTF is Pigeon Forge?!? It's like a honkey-tonk Vegas in the middle of nowhere. As we were driving through the city to find a place to eat we were driving through a never-ending gauntlet of amusement rides, dinner theaters, and flashing signs. The entire town is a tourist-trap. I have no idea how that town exists or why people go there.

The next morning we woke up early again, this time it was cold and foggy. We made our way into the park and started driving on the one-way road out to Cades Cove. Just as we came out of the trees we were greeted to an iconic misty-morning sunrise of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Sunrise in Cades CoveSunrise in Cades Cove Morning DewMorning Dew Morning Light in Cades CoveMorning Light in Cades Cove Morning in Cades CoveMorning in Cades Cove Misty Morning in Cades CoveMisty Morning in Cades Cove

Once we made it to the Cades Cove ranger station we watched live demonstrations at the Cable Mill and Blacksmith shop. Both the guy in the mill and blacksmith shop were descendants of the people who settled the area. It was really cool to talk to the people who had a strong connection to the land that is now the national park.

Cable Mill in FallCable Mill in Fall

After leaving Cades Cove we drove south towards Cherokee and stopped to see the sights along the way.

Meigs Falls in AutmnMeigs Falls in Autmn Fall ColorsFall Colors LayersLayers

We eventually made it to Charleston and took the next day to relax and hang with family. After catching up on some much needed sleep we hit the road again for Congaree National Park. This park was initially created as a national monument and later upgraded to a national park in 2003. I had heard great things about it so I had been wanting to go for sometime now, but when I looked on the website it mentioned that the best way to see the park was on one of their kayak tours. I looked to sign up for one but they weren't being offered when we were there so I reached out to the park and asked if they were in need of some photos in exchange for a "guided tour" on the water. They were happy to oblige and Ranger Lindsey was our guide for the day. She was very knowledgeable and friendly and gave us a great tour. We were even lucky enough to see four river otters. Lindsey told us that in two years of working for the park she has only previously seen three otters before that day. So definitely a big sighting!

Kayaking Cedar CreekKayaking Cedar Creek Reflections on Cedar CreekReflections on Cedar Creek Corrie and Lindsay on Cedar CreekCorrie and Lindsay on Cedar Creek Reflections on Cedar Creek (2)Reflections on Cedar Creek (2) Bald Cypress Reflections (2)Bald Cypress Reflections (2) Kayaker on Cedar CreekKayaker on Cedar Creek Kayakers on Cedar Creek (3)Kayakers on Cedar Creek (3) North American River Otter (2) - Lontra canadensisNorth American River Otter (2) - Lontra canadensis

After our paddle we got back on terra firma and decided to go for a short hike to check out the park on foot. We saw a cardinal, a young white-tailed buck, rat snake, and some champion trees. I believe we saw the champion loblolly pine tree. It was a huge freaking tree. 

Black Rat Snake - Pantherophis obsoletusBlack Rat Snake - Pantherophis obsoletus

From Charleston we headed back to DC and dropped the car off at the airport and met up with my family at the hotel. The next day was supposed to be the nicest while we were there so we decided to do the mall that day. We went up in the Washington Monument and visited the Lincoln Memorial, Arlington National Cemetery, and the U.S Marine Corps Memorial. It was a day full of patriotic sight-seeing and some real-world reminders about what this country has gone through to get where we are today.

Washington MonumentWashington Monument One of the FallenOne of the Fallen On GuardOn Guard Changing of the Guard (2)Changing of the Guard (2) Arlington National CemeteryArlington National Cemetery Sunset at Marine Corps War MemorialSunset at Marine Corps War Memorial Self-portrait Lincoln Memorial at NightSelf-portrait Lincoln Memorial at Night

The rest of the trip we spent wandering around the museums including Ford's Theater, Smithsonian Museum of Natural History, and the U.S Botanical Gardens. It was pretty awesome to see me and my photos hangin in the museum!

Ford's TheaterFord's Theater Me at the SmithsonianMe at the Smithsonian

The trip to DC was a great. I was humbled to get to see my work in the Smithsonian and it was a blast to see new parks, make new friends, and see friends and family. 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Congaree National Park Great Smoky Mountains National Park kayaking National Mall and Memorial Parks Shenandoah National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/11/East-coast-2014 Sat, 01 Nov 2014 13:32:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: Bear Lake to Fern Lake https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/9/bear-fern-lake Fall has arrived and the aspens are starting to turn. We figured no better time to spend a few days in the high country. We dropped a car at the Fern Lake Trailhead and then made our way around to Bear Lake. On the trail up from Bear Lake, the golden aspens contrasted beautifully with the clear blue sky. It took us a while to get through that first stretch of trail because we stopped for so many photos.

Hallett and Bear Lake Fall Colors PanoramaHallett and Bear Lake Fall Colors Panorama Hallett and Fall Colors (2)Hallett and Fall Colors (2) Gold AspensGold Aspens

Eventually we made it our way to the Mill Creek drainage and were greeted with great mountain views. We hiked along the trail, taking in more views, past the Odessa Lake Trail cutoff, until we made it to Fern Lake.

Overlooking Lake HeleneOverlooking Lake Helene Corrie and ChristeinCorrie and Christein Hikers on the Fern Lake TrailHikers on the Fern Lake Trail Views of Little Matterhorn along the Fern lake TrailViews of Little Matterhorn along the Fern lake Trail Views of Little Matterhorn along the Fern lake Trail (2)Views of Little Matterhorn along the Fern lake Trail (2) Views of Little Matterhorn along the Fern lake Trail (3)Views of Little Matterhorn along the Fern lake Trail (3) Hikers on the Odessa Lake TrailHikers on the Odessa Lake Trail

Once we arrived at camp, we tossed some beers in the lake and relaxed the rest of the evening, taking in the views. That night was clear, so I took the opportunity to take some photos of the stars, just shortly after dark.

What a catch!What a catch! Milky Way over Fern LakeMilky Way over Fern Lake

That night we made a plan to hike to Odessa Lake for sunrise the following day. We set off in the dark and rolled up just in time for first light on the Little Matterhorn. It was our first time to the area, so we explored around the lake before heading back to camp.

First Light at Odessa LakeFirst Light at Odessa Lake Little Matterhorn ReflectionsLittle Matterhorn Reflections Odessa BeachOdessa Beach Odessa Lake ReflectionsOdessa Lake Reflections Odessa Lake PanoramaOdessa Lake Panorama

Back at camp we made breakfast, went for a swim, and got ready for a hike up to Loomis Lake, just above Spruce Lake. We headed up to the patrol cabin on the way to check it out.v While I was trying my shoes on the front steps, a short-tailed weasel stuck his head out from around the corner and I was able to grab a shot of him before he ran back into the woods. Quick little bugger!

On the way up to Loomis we found a really cool little waterfall and a small pond. We hung out at the lake for a little while, jumped in and swam, and then headed back to camp to meet up with friends hiking in for the night.
Short-tailed WeaselShort-tailed Weasel Waterfall Above Spruce LakeWaterfall Above Spruce Lake Loomis LakeLoomis Lake

Back in camp we found out our friends resupplied us with more beer and a bottle of Tequila. We all hung out at the lake to take in the sunset. A great day of relaxing in the mountains.

Fern Lake Sunset PanoramaFern Lake Sunset Panorama

The last morning was another beautiful one. We slept in a bit, so by the time we work up the morning light was gone, but it was still enough for some nice reflection photos.

Fern Lake ReflectionsFern Lake Reflections Debris in Fern LakeDebris in Fern Lake

We packed up and hiked back to the car at Fern Lake. Once we dropped back down in elevation we hit some more aspen groves in fall color. A great bookend to an even better trip!

Summer into FallSummer into Fall Relaxing in the AspensRelaxing in the Aspens

Trip notes: We hiked around 14 miles with 2700' elevation gain in 3 days. A really nice relaxing trip. Since we did two nights, we were able to hike light and fast on the layover day. I'm not a big fisherman, but our friends that fish were able to catch a bunch. So if you're into fishing this is a great spot. Since the lakes aren't that far in, we also did see a lot of day hikers, which isn't my favorite in the backcountry. But this park is fairly small and most every backcountry spot is also within day hiking distance. Overall, it was a fun trip and I'd visit again!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Colorado Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/9/bear-fern-lake Mon, 22 Sep 2014 02:23:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: Thunder Lake https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/9/thunder-lake We arrived to Wild Basin late morning and set off to Thunder Lake. Our plan was to stay two nights up at the lake and on our layover day we would hike off trail to explore the lakes above Thunder. The hike to Thunder Lake is mostly in the trees so the views aren't great, except for Ouzel Falls and Calypso Cascades. 

Ouzel Falls (2)Ouzel Falls (2) Calypso CascadesCalypso Cascades
After a long and steady climb, we made it to Thunder just as the sun was setting behind the ridge. We made dinner and watched the sun set.

Afternoon at Thunder LakeAfternoon at Thunder Lake

We had a fairly full moon during our trip so I took the opportunity to take some night photos of the lake. The following morning we had a spectacular sunrise so I spent a while exploring around the lake and the outlet.

Thunder Lake at Night (3)Thunder Lake at Night (3) Sunrise at Thunder Lake (portrait)Sunrise at Thunder Lake (portrait) Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4)Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4) First Light at Thunder LakeFirst Light at Thunder Lake

After breakfast we set out to explore towards Lion and Snowbank Lakes. 

Fan FallsFan Falls Alpine in Wild BasinAlpine in Wild Basin Pilot Mountain and Mount AlicePilot Mountain and Mount Alice

Once we got above the trees we pulled out the map to see if we could get a better lay of the land. We had seen a lot of these peaks before, but from the northern side looking south. We continued on along a creek uphill until we found more lakes and streams.

Corrie reading the mapCorrie reading the map Lion Lake No. 2 and Chiefshead PeakLion Lake No. 2 and Chiefshead Peak Lion Lake No 2. and CascadesLion Lake No 2. and Cascades Cascades and ChiefsheadCascades and Chiefshead Wildflowers, cascades, and ChiefsheadWildflowers, cascades, and Chiefshead

Once we started heading back towards camp, we decided it was time to crack our beers and eat lunch. We found a nice rock in the sun and laid out like marmots.

IMG_4870IMG_4870 Self-portrait in Wild BasinSelf-portrait in Wild Basin

In addition to the named lakes, there are also a bunch of small patches of shallow water, which allows for things to stay green fairly late into the year.

IMG_4974IMG_4974 Meeker, Longs, and ChiefsheadMeeker, Longs, and Chiefshead

The next day we hike out the same way we came in, and stopped at Ouzel Falls again. Solid end to a great trip.

Ouzel FallsOuzel Falls

Trip notes: We hiked just shy of 19 miles with 3800' elevation gain. As I mentioned, the best part of the hike is at the Lake and beyond. That means it's very nice to have at least one layover day to explore the alpine area. You could probably spend more than one day up there if you wanted. It also looks like you can hike to Thunder and continue on over the pass to Grand Lake. Seems like a crazy long day, but would be cool to hike from one end of the park to the other in a day.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Colorado Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/9/thunder-lake Sun, 21 Sep 2014 02:23:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: The Boulderfield https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/8/boulderfield For my 30th birthday I thought it would be fun to backpack 30 beers up to the Boulderfield with friends and go for a summit of Longs Peak. Well, I got a handful of takers and we loaded up out packs and started the steep climb up with HEAVY packs.

Group Before ShotGroup Before Shot

It was slow going, but the views were nice. Especially once we made it above tree line.

Chasm Lake JunctionChasm Lake Junction

After slogging it uphill for a few hours we made it to camp and set up our tents. The weather moved in and the wind picked up. But we didn't let that ruin our spirits. We hung out in the clouds after dinner, enjoyed a few beers and called it an early night so we could wake up for a sunrise summit.

Cloudy Camp spot in the BoulderfieldCloudy Camp spot in the Boulderfield Mount Lady Washington RidgeMount Lady Washington Ridge Beer ThirtyBeer Thirty

That night the wind picked up and holy moly was it hard to sleep. Even with the wind break, the tent was folding down and smacking us in the face all night. I'd be surprised if I was able to get a solid 2 hours that night. The next morning the wind had calmed down a bit and Corrie woke me up and told me I needed to get out of the tent. It was one of the best sunrises I've ever seen. We were so high it was like watching the sunrise from a plane.

Boulderfield SunriseBoulderfield Sunrise

Unfortunately, it also snowed overnight and the Keyhole Route that we planned to do was fairly icy according to the climbing ranger. He also said it was unlikely to improve according to the forecast. We had a couple friends that planned to meet up for the morning, so we explored the views around camp before they arrived and we had to break the news.

Chasm View and The DiamondChasm View and The Diamond Mount Lady Washington and Chasm LakeMount Lady Washington and Chasm Lake

It's crazy how fast the weather was changing being in the clouds. If you sat in one place, the weather would go from sunny to cloudy and back in 60 seconds.

IMG_3651IMG_3651 BoulderfieldBoulderfield Chasm Lake From Chasm ViewChasm Lake From Chasm View

Once the rest of our group arrived we made the decision to pack up camp and head back to the trailhead. Even though it was breakfast time, we thought it would be silly to carry all the beer back to the trailhead. So at 9 in the morning we started shotgunning beers at nearly 13K feet elevation. It was simultaneously the best and worst idea. The hike out was interesting!

Camp Beers at 12.7K ftCamp Beers at 12.7K ft

Trip notes: Doing Longs Peak as a day hike is about 14 miles and 5K feet gain. Ideally you're supposed to summit late morning so you can be heading down before the typical afternoon thunderstorms. Our plan to stay in the Boulderfield was sound. It would give us the maximum amount of time in the mountains, but ultimately you can't control the weather. Doing it as a day hike does provide more flexibility since you don't need a permit. So take that info as you will. Even though we didn't summit, we did have a blast and everyone was glad we did the trip. Sometimes the curveballs make for a better story in the end. We did get some great views from Chasm Overlook and Mount Lady Washington, so we didn't get skunked completely.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Colorado Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/8/boulderfield Tue, 26 Aug 2014 00:49:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: Sky Pond and Taylor Glacier Terminus https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/8/sky-pond Hey everyone! This week was another spectacular week in Rocky. We had some severe storms again but I got out for an evening sunset in the alpine and also an all day hike up to the terminus of the Taylor Glacier. So the plan was to head up to Sky Pond early in the morning. I had heard great things about this hike but hadn't made it up there yet. The plan was to meet at the Bear Lake trailhead at sunrise and then head out on trail. The first part of the hike went quickly because we were practically the only ones on that trail. We did make a quick stop when we came across a patch of ripe raspberries.

Wild Red Raspberry - Rubus idaeusWild Red Raspberry - Rubus idaeus

Then just as we started to come out of the trees we were greeted with Timberline falls. This is a great waterfall and you actually have to climb through a small portion of the falls in order to continue on to Lake of Glass, Sky Pond, and Taylor Glacier. I was very surprised that this is an NPS trail because of the class 3 scramble required. If you were to fall there could be some serious injuries. But as I would soon find out, there was a reason that people of all ages and skill levels make the trek.

Sunrise at Timberline FallsSunrise at Timberline Falls

Once we got past the falls we made it to Lake of Glass. A few of us decided to jump in for a swim to cool off and completely get rid of the morning hangover. From there we suited back up and made for Sky Pond.

Trail to Sky PondTrail to Sky Pond

Once we got past Lake of Glass and into the krummholtz, the flowers were everywhere. Columbines, gentians, bistort, primrose, louseworts, and more. It was really spectacular to see all the varieties with an amazing backdrop.

Columbines and FinsColumbines and Fins

Columbines near Lake of Glass

Columbines in Loch ValeColumbines in Loch Vale

Once we mad it to Sky Pond we stopped and had lunch. It was only 8:30 in the morning and the weather was looking great so Jon and I decided to push on up valley to explore more of the area. In the distance we could see what looked like a terminal moraine and the promise of an unnamed tarn so we headed around the right-hand side of the lake and made our way up.

Rocks and Water Near Sky PondRocks and Water Near Sky Pond Columbines and Sharktooth RidgeColumbines and Sharktooth Ridge Snowfield CrossingsSnowfield Crossings Jon Overlooking Sky Pond and Loch ValeJon Overlooking Sky Pond and Loch Vale

Once we made it to the top of the moraine we were a little disappointed to find that there was no tarn, just ice and rock. The disappointment soon faded as we turned around and had this view from around 11.5K ft. Once we were at the top we were able to look over the entire valley and we decided to make our way back along a different route to explore the lush meadow on the other side of the lake.

Sky Pond and Loch Vale from Taylor Glacier TerminusSky Pond and Loch Vale from Taylor Glacier Terminus Overlooking Sky Pond and Lake of GlassOverlooking Sky Pond and Lake of Glass Sharktooth Ridge, Sky Pond, and Lake of GlassSharktooth Ridge, Sky Pond, and Lake of Glass Fields of BistortFields of Bistort Falls between Sky Pond and Lake of GlassFalls between Sky Pond and Lake of Glass

Just as we made it to the falls we looked behind us and the clouds started to roll in. We headed back to the car only stopping for a short snack and to filter water. When we were about 2 miles away from the trailhead we heard our first thunder so we started hiking at maximum speed. We were surprised to see how many people were STARTING their hikes when lightning and thunder were rolling in. We made an effort to to inform people that we were seeing lightning, but no one seemed to care. Then as we were crossing the bridge we also saw a group of people drinking directly out of the stream that flows out of Bear Lake. We kindly told him that doing that wasn't the best idea because of the potential for giardia and cryptosporidium but he replied, "Don't knock it 'til you try it." So it seems that no matter how hard you try to help people make good choices you just gotta let them do their own thing. Just as we made it back to the Bear Lake parking lot the sky opened up and lighting was crashing directly overhead. We lucked out and only had to run about 50 yards in the rain before making it safely back to the car. 

This hike was one of the best day hikes I have done in Rocky to date. If you have the chance to make it up there I highly recommend it. To make it past Sky Pond you will need some route-finding and scrambling skills but it is totally doable if you take your time. I think next week I plan on hiking either Meeker or the Shark's Tooth. If anyone out there has done either I would love some input if you have any. Looking forward to getting back out there soon and I'll be sure to share the photos!

Lastly I added a slideshow of the flowers that we saw along the hike as well as some video of the trail.

Sky Pond

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado hiking Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/8/sky-pond Sat, 02 Aug 2014 02:59:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: Chiquita and Ypsilon Peaks https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/7/Chiquita-Ypsilon If you've been following my blog since I arrived in the area, you know that my plan is to climb Long's Peak before my 30th birthday. I've been working my way up higher and higher each week in an attempt to try and get used to the altitude. So far the highest mountain I've summited is Sundance (12,466 ft) and I was looking to break 13K. When I first arrived back in late May I was scouting hikes and mountains from along the road and I saw a ridge hike that I immediately put on my list.

Ypsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin SunsetYpsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin Sunset

I later came to find out that the mountains were Chapin (12,454 ft), Chiquita (13,069 ft), and Ypsilon (13,520 ft).  It is a popular hike that starts along the Old Fall River Road. The problem is that last year that road was washed out from the flood and is closed this year. So I kinda put that out of my mind until I started looking at the map a little closer and realized that with the road being out, it would only add about 3 miles and 800ft of climbing if I hiked from the Alpine Visitor Center. So after thinking about it for a couple days I decided to give it a shot. The goal was to at least summit Chiquita so that I could get break my PR of 12.5 and get over 13K to see how the altitude would affect me. The other issue is that the weather was calling for lightning in the afternoon so we would have limited time. The previous day there was a lightning strike on the Ute trail at 11.5K ft injuring seven and killing one so we weren't going to push our luck. We decided to start our hike at 5:30 am right at daybreak from the Alpine Visitor Center and headed down the Old Fall River Road.

Sunrise on Old Fall River RoadSunrise on Old Fall River Road

From there we walked the 1.5 mile social trail through the woods until we got to the Chapin pass trail and the start of the official trail to the summits.

CCY Summit TrailCCY Summit Trail Early Morning on the CCY TrailEarly Morning on the CCY Trail First Light on the CCY TrailFirst Light on the CCY Trail

The plan for the day was to hit the summits of Chiquita and Ypsilon first and if time/weather allowed to then hit Chapin on the way down.

Chiquita Creek Drainage and Horseshoe ParkChiquita Creek Drainage and Horseshoe Park Avens on Chiquita and YpsilonAvens on Chiquita and Ypsilon Hiking the Ridge to YpsilonHiking the Ridge to Ypsilon Mount ChiquitaMount Chiquita Ypsilon Summit 13,520Ypsilon Summit 13,520

We had been hiking all day and had not seen a single soul. As my hiking buddies were eating I headed over to the ridge to scope out the views and I started to hear voices from below the ridge. I thought I was going crazy at first but then two dudes popped up on the ridge in front of me and I was able to grab a shot of them. Apparently they had hiked up from Lawn Lake trailhead which is a silly-long hike. 

Ypsilon Summit ClimbersYpsilon Summit Climbers Spectacle Lakes from Yspilon Summit RidgeSpectacle Lakes from Yspilon Summit Ridge Ridge Walking YpsilonRidge Walking Ypsilon Ypsilon Summit RidgeYpsilon Summit Ridge

As we started our descent the afternoon clouds started to roll in on us so we headed straight for tree line but I was able to grab a couple of shots on the way down.

Afternoon Storm Clouds on YpsilonAfternoon Storm Clouds on Ypsilon Ross Avens and Never Summer MountainRoss Avens and Never Summer Mountain Ross Avens on ChiquitaRoss Avens on Chiquita Old Man of the MountainOld Man of the Mountain

We made it back to treeline and eventually the road for the last 1.5 miles. This really sucked because after you just did this bomber hike you now have to climb another ~800ft to get back to the visitor center. The weather continued to clear and then cloud until we reached the visitor center and then it started to rain. We planned it just right. We did around 11.5  miles with 3,500 ft of climbing in 7.5 hours. We were able to take in some great views, explore a new part of the park, and also summit my first and second 13K ft peaks. We made it back home just in time for the sky to open up and then we heard sirens racing into the park where we would later find out that a second person died of lightning in 2 days. That shit is no joke.

Trip Notes: I highly recommend this hike if you get the chance, the only problem is that they will be closing the road to all traffic in the near future so they can begin construction to repair it. If nothing else, keep it on the list for future visits to the park once the road is open for business.

 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado hiking Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/7/Chiquita-Ypsilon Sun, 20 Jul 2014 01:42:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain National Park in Spring https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/6/rocky-mountain-spring Hey Everyone! It's been super busy here in Estes Park, CO,  but I'm finally getting my feet underneath me. I've already had some visitors and I am expecting more throughout the summer. I've been hiking 2-3 times a week trying to get in good hiking shape in order to do Longs Peak for my 30th birthday. Longs is the only 14K foot peak in the park and since I have never done a 14'er before, I set that as my goal for the summer. I have already hit two mountains over 12.5K and look to hit 3 more this weekend named Chapin, Chaquita, and Ypsilon that are 12.5, 13, and 13.5K respectively. Here's hoping. This post is gonna be photo heavy. Feel free to share and ENJOY!!

Back Yard AlpenglowBack Yard Alpenglow Pink TreesPink Trees Ypsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin SunsetYpsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin Sunset Ute Trail AlpineUte Trail Alpine Ute Trail Hiker in the AplineUte Trail Hiker in the Apline Honeymoon Over Bear LakeHoneymoon Over Bear Lake Meeker and Longs from Estes ConeMeeker and Longs from Estes Cone Morning in Moraine ParkMorning in Moraine Park Sprague Lake ReflectionsSprague Lake Reflections Sunset and Lava Cliffs From 12K ftSunset and Lava Cliffs From 12K ft Sunset on CCYSunset on CCY Sunset over Deer MountainSunset over Deer Mountain Meeker and Longs PeakMeeker and Longs Peak View from Sundance MountainView from Sundance Mountain Hallet Mountain and Tyndal Glacier PanoramaHallet Mountain and Tyndal Glacier Panorama Hazy Sunset From Sundance Mountain (2)Hazy Sunset From Sundance Mountain (2) Hazy Sunset PanoramaHazy Sunset Panorama Milky Way and Sky Glow Over Bear LakeMilky Way and Sky Glow Over Bear Lake Field of DreamsField of Dreams Evening BeersEvening Beers South Ute Trail Ridge Sunset (2)South Ute Trail Ridge Sunset (2) Pond Near Lake HiyahaPond Near Lake Hiyaha Elk Calf in the AlpineElk Calf in the Alpine Moose Cow in the FieldMoose Cow in the Field Pika in the Boulder FieldPika in the Boulder Field Pika with AvensPika with Avens Chipmunk ProfileChipmunk Profile Backyard CoyoteBackyard Coyote Wood Lily with Lady Bug - Lilium philadelphicumWood Lily with Lady Bug - Lilium philadelphicum Brownie Lady's Slipper - Cypripedium fasciculatumBrownie Lady's Slipper - Cypripedium fasciculatum Plains Pricklypear - Opuntia polyacanthaPlains Pricklypear - Opuntia polyacantha Ball Cactus - Escobaria viviparaBall Cactus - Escobaria vivipara Snow Buttercup - Ranunculus adoneusSnow Buttercup - Ranunculus adoneus Great-horned OwlGreat-horned Owl Violet Green Swallow - Tachycineta thalassinaViolet Green Swallow - Tachycineta thalassina Broad-tailed Hummingbird - Selasphorus platycercusBroad-tailed Hummingbird - Selasphorus platycercus Broad-tailed Hummingbird (4) - Selasphorus platycercusBroad-tailed Hummingbird (4) - Selasphorus platycercus Broad-tailed Hummingbird Feeding on Golden BannerBroad-tailed Hummingbird Feeding on Golden Banner Clark's Nutcracker - Nucifraga columbianaClark's Nutcracker - Nucifraga columbiana Mountain Bluebird with Feather - Sialia currucoidesMountain Bluebird with Feather - Sialia currucoides American Pipit Ground NestAmerican Pipit Ground Nest Wilson's Warbler - Cardellina pusillaWilson's Warbler - Cardellina pusilla

Ill be sure to keep posting as I get more. I hope everyone is doing well, and enjoying their summers. Life is certainly good here. No update on any job prospects here yet. I'll let you know when I know! Thanks and I'll talk you to all soon.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado photography Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/6/rocky-mountain-spring Sun, 08 Jun 2014 03:17:00 GMT
Yampa and Green Rivers: Deerlodge to Split Mountain https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/5/yampa-green-rivers Last year, while with Americorps VISTA I visited many parks in the surrounding area and donated some of my photos to them. Dinosaur was one of those parks I visited and upon my first visit its beauty blew me away. The original plan was to float me down the Yampa but it had already run dry for the season by the time schedules worked out. Alternatively, I was able to do a 4-day/3-night trip through Lodore Canyon. It was an amazing trip. I had a great time and the park extended me the invitation to return and do the Yampa the following season. Since high water for that river is in May, now seemed a great time to take advantage of the invitation.

To give you a little background on The Yampa, it is roughly 46 miles long, its waters come from Steamboat Springs, and it is the last large free-flowing tributary of the Colorado River System. Every year without a dam to stop it, the Yampa dumps huge amounts of woody matter into the Green, which is the starting point for all life in river systems. This woody matter feeds microorganisms and up the chain it goes to fish, fish to birds, etc. To put it another way, the Yampa is the lifeline of the Green River now that the Green is dammed. Yampa Canyon has been inhabited for more than 8,000 years and is evident in the form of rock art, prehistoric ruins, as well as historic ruins from late 19th century settlers.

These days, Dinosaur sees only about 12K boaters on the Yampa and the Green combined each year. To summarize, this park is an under-utilized and under-appreciated resource. Each time I visit I find out more about this amazing place and its spectacular diversity. So here is my attempt to convey how special a place Yampa Canyon is and how awesome of a time I had on my trip.

Arrival: I arrived to Dinosaur on the Quarry side and organized all my gear and food for the trip. I finished early and had a few hours to kill so I decided to go out for a walk to see what sort of wildlife was in the area. I was surprised to find lots of birds including barn swallows, chipping sparrows, say’s phoebes, western meadowlarks, spotted towhees, and even a few new species for me: bullock’s oriole, lark sparrow, and a western kingbird. I also found out that the park has marmots, which is totally crazy to me because I am used to seeing them in alpine ecosystems, not in the desert. I hadn’t even started my trip yet and I was already finding lots of cool stuff to photograph.

Dinosaur SignDinosaur Sign Barn Swallow (2) - Hirundo rusticaBarn Swallow (2) - Hirundo rustica Eyes on the PrizeEyes on the Prize Western Kingbird (3) - Tyrannus verticalisWestern Kingbird (3) - Tyrannus verticalis Lark Sparrow - Chondestes grammacusLark Sparrow - Chondestes grammacus Lady and the TrampLady and the Tramp Western Meadowlark - Sturnella neglectaWestern Meadowlark - Sturnella neglecta Gathering Nest MaterialsGathering Nest Materials Bullock's Oriole (3)- Icterus bullockiiBullock's Oriole (3)- Icterus bullockii

Day 1: We all met up at Park HQ made introductions, loaded the boats, and made for Deer Lodge. The two boatmen, Peter and Chris, have a combined 30+ years of experience in Dinosaur so I knew I was in for a great trip. The main purpose of the trip was to float me down and take photos of the Yampa for the park. In addition to the photos, the support team was keeping an eye out for leafy spurge, an invasive plant, so that they could pick it along the way.

Deer LodgeDeer Lodge

As we shoved off from Deer Lodge, the first stops we made were at the Henry Shank Cabin and “Fin” Chapman Dugout and 2-holer. They are both along the Yampa River before you enter the Canyon. I have seen some pretty great outdoor toilets in my life, and the 2-holer’s view is up there among the greats, but it is really special because it allows for a friend to join you.

Henry Shank CabinHenry Shank Cabin Fin Chapman Dugout and 2-HolerFin Chapman Dugout and 2-Holer Fin Chapman Dugout and 2-Holer (2)Fin Chapman Dugout and 2-Holer (2)

Once we entered the Canyon, high canyon walls immediately surrounded us. Our camp for the evening was at Anderson Hole and we arrived in time to go on a short hike up one of the drainages. Along the way we were finding lots of fossils including crinoids, brachiopods, and ammonites. After the crew finished picking spurge, we headed back to camp just in time for a great sunset with rainbow along the river. We were even joined by a western grebe, which is also a new bird for me.

Fossilized Brachiopod (3)Fossilized Brachiopod (3) Fossilised CrinoidsFossilised Crinoids Fossilized AmmoniteFossilized Ammonite Western Grebe - Aechmophorus occidentalisWestern Grebe - Aechmophorus occidentalis Anderson Hole SunsetAnderson Hole Sunset

Day 2: The next day we got up and it was spitting rain, but cleared up by late morning. From Anderson Hole Campground there is a small Cabin in disrepair called Stubbs Cabin. If you stick your head in you can see the original stove and cabinets etc. It even had biological soil crusts growing on the roof, which means its pretty freaking old. From there we hit the river and we made our first stop after Teepee Rapid and hiked to the Matt Rash Cabin. Along the way there were lots of cool wildflowers and great views of the shape of the Canyon.

Stubs CabinStubs Cabin Inside Stubs CabinInside Stubs Cabin Wood's Rose - Rosa woodsiiWood's Rose - Rosa woodsii Scarlet Globemallow - Sphaeralcea coccineaScarlet Globemallow - Sphaeralcea coccinea Silvery Townsendia - Townsendia incanaSilvery Townsendia - Townsendia incana Nuttall Larkspur - Delphinium nuttallianumNuttall Larkspur - Delphinium nuttallianum Matt Rash CabinMatt Rash Cabin Matt Rash Cabin InteriorMatt Rash Cabin Interior

Then we headed to Big Joe where we would grab lunch, scout the rapid and hike up the side canyon. As we made our way up the canyon we were greeted with great views of the river and some pretty impressive geology. After Big Joe we stopped and hiked up to Signature Cave, whose name is obvious once you make it in. The walls are covered in signatures and pictographs of all the people who had made their way to the cave before us. The cave also doubles as a hanging garden and we found some shooting stars, which are one of my favorite flowers. If you ever see one be sure to take a smell. One of my coworkers in Denali told me they smell like grape kool-aid and I was surprised to find out that they indeed do.

Rafting Below Big JoeRafting Below Big Joe Johnson Canyon Rock Art and GrafittiJohnson Canyon Rock Art and Grafitti Hiking to Signature CaveHiking to Signature Cave Hiker in Signature CaveHiker in Signature Cave Signature Cave PictographSignature Cave Pictograph

We pulled into Mathers Hole campground where it was my turn to make dinner. As we were sitting under the Box elders eating delicious dinner, we were surround by little yellow birds singing and darting from tree to tree. I was able to grab a nice shot and figured out that they were Yellow Warblers, which is another new bird for me. By the time I made it up to the campsite it was already dark so I didn’t have an opportunity to see how cool of a spot we were in, but I would find out soon enough.

Yellow Warbler - Setophaga petechiaYellow Warbler - Setophaga petechia

Day 3: My personal philosophy when shooting is that you only need to get one “keeper” any day that you shoot. Once I get that photo, the pressure is off for the remainder of the day and any additional keepers I get are icing on the cake. One of my favorite things is to wake up and immediately get that shot out of the way, and this was one of those days. I awoke to the sounds of birds and the sight of an awesome sunrise about to happen. Adrenaline kicked in and I jumped out of my bag and grabbed my camera. It was so awesome to watch the sun slowly creep down this massive overhang, continually changing the scene. After taking a few shots up by the place we slept I ran down to the river just in time for me to take my favorite shot of the trip.

Mathers Hole CampgroundMathers Hole Campground Mathers Hole AbstractMathers Hole Abstract Sunrise at Mathers HoleSunrise at Mathers Hole

After the great sunrise we jumped on the river. The next stop was for lunch and a quick hike up to Pat Lynch’ Cave. Then we jumped on the boat, floated to the other side and hiked to Mantle Cave where we found some great Fremont ruins and granaries. Our last stop before entering Outlaw Park was to some pictographs overlooking the river.

Hiking to Pat Lynch' CaveHiking to Pat Lynch' Cave Pat Lynch' SignaturePat Lynch' Signature Pat Lynch' CavePat Lynch' Cave Mantle Cave RuinsMantle Cave Ruins Mantle CaveMantle Cave Fremont GranariesFremont Granaries Lower Laddie Park PanoramaLower Laddie Park Panorama Downstream View of Outlaw ParkDownstream View of Outlaw Park Pictographs Above Outlaw ParkPictographs Above Outlaw Park

Once we made it into Lower Yampa the Canyon the light was just amazing. We were greeted with amazing canyon views around each corner and as the water grew still I knew that we were nearing the rapids. We were now on Warm Springs “lake.” It was the calm before the storm.

Rowing along the Tiger WallRowing along the Tiger Wall Rafting in Lower Yampa CanyonRafting in Lower Yampa Canyon Rafting in Lower Yampa Canyon (4)Rafting in Lower Yampa Canyon (4) Rafting in Lower Yampa Canyon (6)Rafting in Lower Yampa Canyon (6)

Eventually we made it to the rapids where we got out to scout. After a good 20 minutes Pete and Chris had their lines scouted and we made our game plan. Both boats made near perfect lines past Godzilla, over Ledge, and past Maytag. It was the crux of our trip and we were out of it barely even wet. It was a huge relief since a few boats had already flipped there earlier in the season. Once we were out of the rapids we pulled over at our campsite and were greeted with amazing afternoon light. After a nice dinner it was off to bed so we could take an early morning to hike at the Confluence (Green and Yampa), now only a few miles away.

Scouting Warm Springs RapidScouting Warm Springs Rapid Warm Springs RapidWarm Springs Rapid Warm Springs CampWarm Springs Camp

Day 4: We hit the river early and made it to the confluence around 9 am. We decided that we were going to hike the Outlaw Trail to the ridgeline where we would be able to look down on Lodore Canyon and the confluence. This is when having experienced people like Pete and Chris with us REALLY started to show. Pete is also a photographer and a history buff. One of the cool projects that he has taken upon himself is to do repeat photos of early explorers that came to Dinosaur. This hike was to one of those spots. Needless to say it was breathtaking, in more than one way.

The Confluence PanoramaThe Confluence Panorama The Confluence (3)The Confluence (3) Red-tailed Hawk - Buteo jamaicensisRed-tailed Hawk - Buteo jamaicensis Pete Looking Down on Lodore CanyonPete Looking Down on Lodore Canyon Looking Down on the ConfluenceLooking Down on the Confluence

After the hike we stopped at the confluence to eat lunch and then went for a short hike in Lower Echo Park. On the way to find some rock art we came across some huge elk sheds that appeared to be from the year before, 8 in total. After getting back on the river we came across a family of Canada Geese, a Desert Bighorn ewe and lamb, and another new bird for me, the lazuli bunting.

Lower Echo Park PictographsLower Echo Park Pictographs Canada Goose and Goslings - Branta canadensisCanada Goose and Goslings - Branta canadensis Ewe and Lamb on a ledgeEwe and Lamb on a ledge Lazuli Bunting - Passerina amoenaLazuli Bunting - Passerina amoena

Then the wind started to pick up so we pulled into camp and hunkered down for the remainder of the night. Since this was the last night, I was really interested in getting some night photos. All the other nights had been somewhat of a bust. So I woke up at about 2 am to clouds and rain, but I decided to wait it out a little and I am glad that I did.

View from the TentView from the Tent Camping in DinosaurCamping in Dinosaur

Day 5: This was the day that we would be taking out. It was a cold and rainy morning and I was not looking forward to sitting on the boat. We pushed on and wouldn’t you know it, the sun decided to make an appearance and it turned out to be the hottest day of the trip, which was great because we had a few rapids in Split Mountain to go through.

Ogre MiteOgre Mite Common Merganser - Mergus merganserCommon Merganser - Mergus merganser Cliff Swallow Nests - Petrochelidon pyrrhonotaCliff Swallow Nests - Petrochelidon pyrrhonota

Along the way we stopped to see the bison petroglyph and to look at a bald eagle’s nest in Island Park. It is actually the first documented nest in the area. We made pretty good time through Island Park and geared up for the last rapids of the trip. With the water running pretty high it made for some fun splashy rapids and some great photo ops.

Bison PetroglyphBison Petroglyph Beaver in Island ParkBeaver in Island Park Split Mountain PanoramaSplit Mountain Panorama Floating Moonshine RapidFloating Moonshine Rapid Moonshine RapidMoonshine Rapid Floating S.O.B. Rapid (2)Floating S.O.B. Rapid (2)

Trip notes: After getting to do Lodore last year and Yampa this year, I would say that this place is quickly creeping up the list of my favorite parks. It has world-class geology, amazing human history, amazing rivers, opportunities for wilderness experiences and solitude, diverse wildlife, amazing hiking, oh, and dinosaur fossils. If you get the chance to visit I can’t recommend it enough. Even if you can't get on the river, just get away from the paved roads. I guarantee you won’t be sorry.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado Dinosaur National Monument float trip Green River Utah Yampa River https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/5/yampa-green-rivers Fri, 30 May 2014 14:52:00 GMT
Green River: Mineral Bottom to Hite https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/green-river After being on the road for a few weeks at this point, including our recent backcountry trip to Phantom Ranch in Grand Canyon, we were looking forward to this float trip. Our friends planned a Green River trip through Cataract Canyon and extended an invite to us. The trip was planned for six days with a single layover day so that we could hike to the Doll House in the Maze District. As excited as I was to do this trip, I was also a little nervous because I've never been in a canoe that didn’t flip. Normally that isn’t a big deal but this time I had all my camera gear with me in the canoe. I had tried multiple times to figure out a system that I would be able to take my camera out for photos but ultimately decided that it was best to just wait until we were on shore or on a raft. As we floated through the canyon we were seeing lots of new birds, great views, and the occasional archaeological site.

Our first camp was on a beach, with great views of the Wingate. We even got in a few games of bocce after dinner.

Stillwater Reflections PanoramaStillwater Reflections Panorama

The next morning we went on a hike near Turks Head to check out these cool petroglyph panels.

Maze District PetroglyphsMaze District Petroglyphs
Petroglyph Rock Near Turk's HeadPetroglyph Rock Near Turk's Head

After floating all day and drinking, we pulled into camp with another great view. This time we were slightly up a hill on a beach overlooking the river.

Sunset at Ledge CampSunset at Ledge Camp Fish-hook Cactus in BloomFish-hook Cactus in Bloom Indian PaintbrushIndian Paintbrush
Still Water Canyon In CanyonlandsStill Water Canyon In Canyonlands

Once we got to the confluence and dropped the canoe, we got a sweet camp spot where we would have our layover day. We woke up with a spectacular sunrise, packed up, and started our hike up the “trail.” It turned out to be the most spectacular hike I've done in Canyonlands to date.

Sunrise from the TentSunrise from the Tent Morning Glory SunriseMorning Glory Sunrise Floating the Colorado through Cataract CanyonFloating the Colorado through Cataract Canyon

The hike was challenging, there were flowers everywhere, spectacular views of the canyon and river, and the weather warm in the sun and cool in the shade. Once we made it up the backside of the canyon we were greeted to the view of Surprise Valley which is a Hoarst and Gräben type valley. It was lush and hidden from view until you walked into it, hence the name I guess. From Surprise Valley we hiked up another route towards the Doll House. On this route we went over more spectacular terrain, through some joints, and eventually popped out in the Cedar Mesa Formation. It was like being back over in the Needles.

Surprise Valley HikersSurprise Valley Hikers Surprise ValleySurprise Valley Seeking the SunSeeking the Sun Hiking in the Doll HouseHiking in the Doll House

Once we made it to the top we had a spectacular view of the entire park. From the Maze we could see Chesler Park, iSky, the La Sals, and the Abajos. We hung out at the top for an hour or so, soaked in the views, then headed back down towards camp just in time for cocktail hour. It was by far my favorite day of the trip.

Overlooking Surprise ValleyOverlooking Surprise Valley Mile 5 Canyon HikersMile 5 Canyon Hikers Campfire in Cataract CanyonCampfire in Cataract Canyon Cataract Canyon at NightCataract Canyon at Night

The following day was the big rapid day. We geared up to get wet and rigged the boats to flip. The first few rapids we went through were only class 2 and 3 and I was able to keep my camera out.

Cataract Canyon RapidsCataract Canyon Rapids Smiles On the RiverSmiles On the River

Then I was told that I might want to put it away because we were about to go through our first big wave. As soon as I clipped my dry bag shut the river swallowed our boat momentarily. I was caught so off guard when the wave hit that I had my mouth open from laughing and got a mouth full of dirty-ass river water. Then we had a few more smaller rapids before we got out to scout Big Drop #2 and #3.

Scouting Big Drop 2Scouting Big Drop 2

Once the boatmen had their line we jumped in the boats and went for it. HOLY SHIT! A big wave train followed by a huge rapid that smashed our boat, almost ejecting our boatman. The other passenger and I high-sided and kept the boat from getting too vertical and flipping. After we made it through the rapid I looked upstream to watch the other boat go through and it was like a mirror image of our boat. They went through the wave train and then were thrashed as they hit Big Drop #2 spinning the boat and forcing the boatman to drop the oars and highside to keep the boat from flipping. Needless to say, once we made it through we were all happy and celebrated with a bottle of champagne.

For the rest of the day it was a smooth float with towering canyon walls, and a nice current. Now that the lake is so low, the river is taking over again and slowing washing all of the sediment further downstream. The last day on the river was a cold one right from the start. We woke up to a windstorm rolling through the canyon and eventually the rain rolled in as well. We shared rowing duties to keep warm in the wind and rain and pulled into Hite around 11 am.

The Walls of Cataract CanyonThe Walls of Cataract Canyon

Trip notes: Overall, we floated around 100 miles. It was a great trip and it made me like Canyonlands even more than I already did. Layover days on the river are awesome, it's like backpacking and waking up in the backcountry but with less work. When we made it to camp each night, we were treated to some of the best food I've eaten in a long time. One of the couples on the trip used to guide in the area. It was a treat to be able to float down the river with such great company who knew the area so well. It’s gonna be hard to beat this last trip, but rest assured I will certainly try.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Canyonlands National Park float trip Green River Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/green-river Sun, 27 Apr 2014 02:34:00 GMT
Grand Canyon: South Kaibab to Bright Angel https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/Phantom-Ranch After exploring Bandelier, Pecos, and Petroglyph, we arrived at the Grand Canyon. Since we hadn't made plans in advance, our only chance at getting a backcountry permit would be to show up at the office in the morning, wait in line, get a number, then wait in line with our number the following day so that we could get our permit for the following day. Everything worked out and we finally got our permit, but had a couple days to kill on the rim. It actually worked out nicely because we were there for the full moon rise. So we headed out to find a good spot and just as we figured where the moon would come over the horizon we noticed a faint GIANT moon coming up over the rim. What an awesome sight. As it rose the sunset and we were front row to a great sunset on the rim.

Full Moon Rise from Yavapai PointFull Moon Rise from Yavapai Point Yavapai Point SunsetYavapai Point Sunset Full Moon Sunset from Yavapai PointFull Moon Sunset from Yavapai Point

The following day we packed and then started down the South Kaibab trail for a night at Bright Angel Campground and Havasupai Gardens. I really wasn’t sure what to expect from the trail but damn is that thing steep. We had the trail to ourselves for the most part. The trail work is pretty cool to see, lots and lots of switchbacks.

Hiking down the South Kaibab TrailHiking down the South Kaibab Trail Hiking Down the South Kaibab PanoramaHiking Down the South Kaibab Panorama

After a few miles and few thousand feet down, we got our first views of the Colorado River. There were plenty of amazing views, but it was definitely a relief to see the campground. All the downhill with a heavy pack takes a toll on your joints.

Overlooking Phantom RanchOverlooking Phantom Ranch

The lack of shade, increasing temperature, dust, and the constant downhill was starting to wear on my knees and ankles. But on we went.

Hiking the Final Stretch of the South KaibabHiking the Final Stretch of the South Kaibab Hermit Shale Colored BootsHermit Shale Colored Boots Blooming Prickly Pear Cactus Along the South KaibabBlooming Prickly Pear Cactus Along the South Kaibab Exploring Near Boat BeachExploring Near Boat Beach Bright Angel Creek Looking UpstreamBright Angel Creek Looking Upstream

But once we made it down to Phantom Ranch we headed to the canteen for some lemonade and cheap beer. We changed shoes and headed to the river to cool off, explore around, and watch the sunset.

Bright Angel Creek Looking DownsreamBright Angel Creek Looking Downsream Sunset Along the ColoradoSunset Along the Colorado

The next morning we were pretty beat so we didn't get up early. We only had a few miles to get to our next spot, so we weren't too worried about it. We finally saw some wildlife on this stretch.

The Colorado Near Pipe Springs CreekThe Colorado Near Pipe Springs Creek Yellow-backed Spiny LizardYellow-backed Spiny Lizard Male Queen ButterflyMale Queen Butterfly

We rolled into camp that afternoon and took the time to relax in the shade. We hiked out to Plateau Point for sunset and decided to make our dinner out there versus staying in camp. Turned out to be a solid move.

Bolting AgaveBolting Agave Plateau PointPlateau Point Pleateau Point Evening LightPleateau Point Evening Light 20180324-jwf-5516-pano20180324-jwf-5516-panoNPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180324-jwf-5557-pano20180324-jwf-5557-panoNPS / Jacob W. Frank

When we made it back to camp it was mostly dark, but we could hear frogs calling. After a little exploring we found this little canyon tree frog.

Canyon Tree FrogCanyon Tree Frog

We enjoyed our sunset from the night before we thought we should do it again for sunrise. Again, didn't disappoint.

20180325-jwf-562920180325-jwf-5629NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180325-jwf-563720180325-jwf-5637NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We headed back to camp, packed up and started making our way back up to the rim. We had 3K more feet to climb in about 5 miles. It was an overcast day but I still was sweating like a beast. Again, we had the trail mostly to ourselves until we got within a mile of the rim. We started seeing people in flip flops who smelled good, we knew we weren't far from the top! The hike out of the canyon isn’t terrible in the spring, but I can’t imagine doing it in the summer when it’s hot outside. We made it out just in time for the bad weather to roll in, grabbed some beers, and then grilled out before crashing early.

Morning Hike on Bright AngelMorning Hike on Bright Angel Morning Light Overlooking Indian GardensMorning Light Overlooking Indian Gardens

Trip notes: We hiked a little over 20 miles with the trips out to Plateau Point with a vertical mile in elevation gain. The thing I'm not a fan of about canyon hiking is that it's all down, or all up. Your muscles rarely get a break with varied terrain. Starting early was also a good move, it's usually much hotter in the canyon even if it feels nice on the rim. Usually less breeze and 3 degrees warmer for every thousand feet. Then add the radiant heat of the rocks in the afternoon as they have been baking in the sun all day. I had a blast and I would do it again. If you plan way ahead you can order dinner at the ranch instead of just buying drinks like we did.

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Bonus: We stayed an extra couple days on the rim and figured I could share some other sunrise/set pics. Enjoy!

20180320-jwf-498220180320-jwf-4982NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180323-jwf-534920180323-jwf-5349NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180320-jwf-499020180320-jwf-4990NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180321-jwf-503220180321-jwf-5032NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180323-jwf-523520180323-jwf-5235NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180329-jwf-6023-pano20180329-jwf-6023-panoNPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180329-jwf-604620180329-jwf-6046NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180329-jwf-609320180329-jwf-6093NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20180329-jwf-613920180329-jwf-6139NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once we left the Grand Canyon, we head to the "Land of Canyons" for a six-day river trip on the Green River.

 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Arizona backpacking Grand Canyon National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/Phantom-Ranch Thu, 24 Apr 2014 02:10:00 GMT
Bandelier, Pecos, and Petroglyph National Monuments https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/bandelier-pecos-petroglyph After relaxing a night in Santa Fe to clean up from our backcountry trip in White Sands National Monument, we were on the way to Bandelier National Monument.

Since being in the Four Corners area for the past year I have seen lots of cool Ancestral Puebloan archeological sites like Mesa Verde National Park, but Bandelier was a refreshing and new experience. The site itself is totally different because of the type of rock that they were surrounded by. Instead of the typical sandstone, it’s a compressed volcanic ash that has lots of solution pockets that looks like Swiss cheese. In addition to building freestanding houses, they also took advantage of these naturally occurring caves/pockets in the rock and further dug into the hillsides. It is a very unique canyon and was well worth the trip. In addition to the dwellings, the park also has terrain above 10K feet. In fact, it has the southernmost population of pika in North America. We climbed Cerro Grande, 10,199 ft to look for them but were unsuccessful because we were unaware that we needed to go off trail in order to find them. The park is very beautiful but had recently been hammered by a flash flood in the canyon followed by a bad fire, so they are in the process of rebuilding areas of the park. Still, it’s worth a few-day visit if you like to hike.

Upper Long Houses Cliff Dwelling RuinsUpper Long Houses Cliff Dwelling Ruins Talus Houses Cliff Dwelling RuinsTalus Houses Cliff Dwelling Ruins Alcove House Kiva EntranceAlcove House Kiva Entrance Alcove House KivaAlcove House Kiva Cerro Grande FireCerro Grande Fire El RIto de los FrijolesEl RIto de los Frijoles   Cañon de los FrijolesCañon de los Frijoles White-breasted NuthatchWhite-breasted Nuthatch Bandelier PueblosBandelier Pueblos

Pecos National Historic Site

On the way to Grand Canyon we found a couple smaller parks, Pecos National Historic Site and Petroglyph National Monument. We decided to do a half-day for each. Pecos is the crossroads for so many historical things its ridiculous. Ancestral Puebloan, Spanish, Missionaries, Santa Fe Trail, Civil War Battle and prospectors all made their way to Pecos at some point. If I got to do it all over again I would spend a full day there because there was so much to take in. They have great exhibits and a museum with lots of pieces found on site including intact puebloan pots, Spanish swords, bullets from the Civil War battle etc. 

Pecos Kiva LandscapePecos Kiva Landscape Pecos Mission DoorwayPecos Mission Doorway Pecos National Historic Park PanoramaPecos National Historic Park Panorama Pecos Mission PanoramaPecos Mission Panorama

Petroglyph National Monument

After Pecos we hit the road we made it to Petroglyph with enough time to hike in Boca Negra Canyon where there are some really great petroglyphs. The thing that surprised me most about this monument is that it is basically in Albuquerque. When you're hiking through these great rock fields, you're essentially in someone’s backyard. The development backs right up to the monument. All the more reason that I really dig the NPS because they protect sites like this from going away forever.

Boca Negra Canyon PetroglyphsBoca Negra Canyon Petroglyphs Boca Negra Canyon Rim PetroglyphsBoca Negra Canyon Rim Petroglyphs

As we started our drive to Grand Canyon we were planning on camping until we drove right into a dust storm. It was the first time that I checked the weather on my iPhone and it said “Dust.” So we pulled over and grabbed a hotel in Holbrook, AZ for the night. When we checked in I gave the guy my zip code for my credit card and it turns out that that he used to live right down the street from where I grew up in Florida, small world.

When we finally made it to Grand Canyon we grabbed a permit for a couple nights in the Canyon, one at Phantom Ranch, and one at Indian Gardens.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Bandelier National Monument New Mexico Pecos National Historic Site Petroglyph National Monument photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/bandelier-pecos-petroglyph Mon, 14 Apr 2014 22:07:00 GMT
White Sands: Backpacking the Dunes https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/white-sands After exploring El Morro and El Malpais National Monuments, we headed to White Sands National Monument (now National Park). If you've never been, you gotta go. It is spectacularly photogenic. The first time I visited I spent the night in the dunes with my roommate at the time. I has such a great experience that when we planned a return trip, backcountry hiking was at the top of the list. There's not a trail, rather a route through the dunes to places to camp. There's no water in the backcountry, but that's not a big deal because it's a short hike out to the camp spots. We reserved a permit for a spot fairly far out in the dunes, so we could hike further out and watch the sunset. We waited until it cooled off a bit and headed out. It's pretty cool walking through this huge expanse and being the only people out there.

Strolling in the DunesStrolling in the Dunes

We found some interesting looking plants and pedestals along the way.

The PedestalThe Pedestal Banana YuccaBanana Yucca

Once we had camp set up, we decided to wander further west into the dunes.

Desert CurvesDesert Curves

Eventually the sky exploded with color over the white gypsum dunes.

White Sands PanoramaWhite Sands Panorama Soft Evening LightSoft Evening Light Red Sunset at White SandsRed Sunset at White Sands

The moon was pretty bright out once the sun first set. We sat out in our camp chairs and enjoyed the breeze. Eventually the moon set, and the stars came out for us. We spent a little while looking for shooting stars before we hit the sack.

Basking in the MoonlightBasking in the Moonlight Camping under the Milky WayCamping under the Milky Way

The following morning we were greeted to a beautiful sunrise. We ate breakfast and hiked back to the car.

Sunrise in the DunesSunrise in the Dunes

Trip notes:I recommend camping out overnight in the backcountry because you basically get the park to yourself, get to watch the sunset, get deep into the untouched dunes, and then you get to be in the park at night. It’s a super beautiful place but the surrounding towns are starting to kill the dark night sky with all the light pollution.

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From there we headed to Santa Fe for the night to grab much-needed showers and then head up to Bandelier National Monument for a few nights.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking New Mexico White Sands National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/white-sands Thu, 10 Apr 2014 03:31:00 GMT
El Morro and El Malpais National Monuments https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/el-morro-el-malpais Hey everyone,

After about a month on the road of hiking, backpacking, and rafting, I have TON of photos to share. So I'm going to start at the top and write a few blogs for all of the parks we visited.

This was the ultimate go with the flow, little/last minute planning roadtrip. Most of the time it worked out well, but there were definitely a few hiccups where some good buddies saved the day by bailing us out. Because we were going to be backpacking in a few of the parks we first had to roll through Cortez, CO and visit the good people at Osprey Packs to get some TLC on both of our packs. Not to pitch it too hard, but I can’t say enough good things about Osprey. Their gear is top notch and in the rare instance that it breaks on you, they will bend over backward to get you back on the trail. We showed up with two packs and the repair office had fixed both in about an hour. Now that we had our gear we hit the road south for the Land of Enchantment.

We pulled into El Malpais just in time to hit the visitor center, get the lay of the land, and get a free caving permit. Then we got a free campsite for a few nights at El Morro Campground so that we would have the chance to hike and explore the lava tubes in El Malpais and explore the trails in El Morro. I want to preface with the fact that I didn’t know anything about either monument upon arrival. I'm so glad that I had the chance to explore both of them. I would consider them “sleeper parks” because they fly under the radar for most people. After talking with the ranger at the El Malpais Visitor Center, we decided to check out Big Skylight, Junction, and Giant Ice caves. It was like being transported to Hawaii. Dormant cinder cone, shield, splatter cone, etc. type volcanoes were everywhere. And if you have ever been to landscape that has had lava flows you know how rugged it is. But somehow life finds a way. Trees, shrubs, and flowers all grow directly out of the ‘a’a lava flows. The first cave we got to was Big Skylight Cave, which was very cool. It’s a giant lava tube that is slowly collapsing in on itself, forming lava skylights and bridges. We hiked all the way to the back of the cave and as we got further and further away from the entrance the light slowly faded until we were in complete darkness. After exploring that cave we hiked to Giant Ice Cave, and then Junction Cave. Junction cave was great for photography because it was a little smaller than either of the other two caves and was long and fairly straight. We had a few bats flying around inside the cave, also very cool. 

Giant Skylight CaveGiant Skylight Cave Hiker in Junction CaveHiker in Junction Cave Lava Tube BridgeLava Tube Bridge Mount Taylor 11,301Mount Taylor 11,301 Giant Skylight Cave Looking OutGiant Skylight Cave Looking Out Hiking into the DarkHiking into the Dark Giant Skylight EntranceGiant Skylight Entrance Hiker viewing the SkylightHiker viewing the Skylight

The next day we packed up and hiked around in El Morro. There is only about 2.5 miles of trail in the monument but it is a very unique place. It is the only guaranteed water source in the area for miles and has attracted people for hundreds of years including ancestral puebloans, the Spanish, surveyors etc. indicated through sandstone inscriptions. It’s a very small monument but if you are in the area it’s definitely worth a stop.

El Morro SunsetEl Morro Sunset El Morro with Composite Volcano in the DistanceEl Morro with Composite Volcano in the Distance Box Canyon HikerBox Canyon Hiker Ramon 1709Ramon 1709 E. LongE. Long

After hiking the loop we got back on the road headed for Carlsbad Caverns National Park. I've done some extensive exploring there so I'll just link to an old blog if you're interested in seeing photos. But while we were there we hit the Natural Entrance, Big Room, King's Palace, Hall of the White Giant, Lower Cave, and Spider Cave.

After Carlsbad Caverns we headed to White Sands National Monument to backpack in the dunes for the evening.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) caving El Malpais National Monument El Morro National Monument New Mexico photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/4/el-morro-el-malpais Mon, 07 Apr 2014 22:07:00 GMT
Canyonlands: Chesler Wash to Starvation Pocket https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/3/starvation-pocket I told some friends that I was going to be in southeast Utah so we planned for a couple nights in the backcountry of Canyonlands' Needles District. The plan was to drive to a remote trailhead and then hike cross country to a remote corner of Bears Ears National Monument.

We headed out over Elephant hill in my buddy’s 4x4 vehicle out to the Joint Trail just in time for the sunset and full moonrise. From there we hiked up Chesler Wash under the full moon where we camped out in the wash. The next morning we woke up and scouted a route up a Chesler Wash tributary that would hopefully take us into Butler Wash. As we made our way up the canyon we were making good time until we found a difficult obstacle to climb with our overnight packs on. My buddy had a climbing rope on him so we decided to scramble up the feature and pull our packs up via the rope. Once we made it over that obstacle we were greeted with a spectacular view of Chesler Wash.

Hoisting our PacksHoisting our Packs Chesler Wash en Route to Butler WashChesler Wash en Route to Butler Wash

As we continued up Butler Wash we found some cool stuff along the way including some deer antlers and a fossil.

Antlers in Butler WashAntlers in Butler Wash Butler Wash FossilButler Wash Fossil

If any of you have ever hiked in the desert you know how important and difficult it is to find water. A friend of ours had told us a general area where he found water once in the past so that was our immediate goal. We were told that we would see a petroglyph panel and that water would be in drainage near the panel. So as we got to the area where we were supposed to find the panel I ran out of water, and we only had a few liters between the 3 of us. So if we weren’t able to find water, we would have to turn around and bail on the trip. So you can imagine the joy we felt when we saw this in the distance.

The Water PanelThe Water Panel

In addition to the panel, we also found potsherds, hand pictographs, lithics, and WATER!! Finding a good source of water in the desert is always a reason for celebration. Now that we were good to push on, we headed into Starvation Pocket where we would find some elk and mountain lion tracks. We then setup camp just in time to enjoy a nice sunset and moonrise.

Ancestral Puebloan Camp PictographsAncestral Puebloan Camp Pictographs Hiking in Starvation PocketHiking in Starvation Pocket Mountain Lion TracksMountain Lion Tracks Starvation PocketStarvation Pocket Full Moon Sunrise in Starvation PocketFull Moon Sunrise in Starvation Pocket Starvation Pocket Arch Under the Full MoonStarvation Pocket Arch Under the Full Moon

The last day we decided to take a different route to avoid having to down climb the feature the day before. We made it up butler wash very easily but had a difficult time finding a way down into Chesler Wash. Our route kept getting cliffed or pinched out so we just kept probing until we found a way through where we were greeted with another great view of Chesler Wash.

Chesler Wash PanoramaChesler Wash Panorama

Eventually we made our way back to the wash and then the car. We started our drive back home and decided to take a side trip to the confluence overlook, which is the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. This is the also the river that we hope to float later in April. So all in all is was a blast of a trip. Utah in March is pretty amazing and I am looking forward to getting back here next month.

Killer ViewKiller View Taking in the View of the DollhouseTaking in the View of the Dollhouse The Heart of CanyonlandsThe Heart of Canyonlands

Trip notes: We ended up hiking around 15 miles total, mostly flat. This area can be very difficult to overnight unless you are willing to carry all your water, or, have some good intel on where to find water like we did. Every trip I do in Canyonlands is awesome and it seems to keep moving up on my list of favorite parks.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Canyonlands National Park Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/3/starvation-pocket Mon, 31 Mar 2014 14:52:00 GMT
Colorado Plateau: Top 100 from 2013 https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/1/Colorado-plateau-2013 WhelpI Utah, it's been a great year. I visited over 15 National Parks in the surrounding area, camped out over 120 days, and explored one of the coolest places in the United States, the Colorado Plateau. I completed my contract with AmeriCorps VISTA and I moved to Moab to produce a video for the Colorado Plateau Dark Sky Cooperative. It's a public-private partnership that focuses on all things about the dark night sky. While I'm here temporarily looking for a more permanent gig, I figured I would share my favorite shots from this past year's trips.

Arches National Park

First Light on Turret Arch Framed by North Window - WideFirst Light on Turret Arch Framed by North Window - Wide Self Portrait - Delicate Arch at Night [Explored 4-15-13]Self Portrait - Delicate Arch at Night [Explored 4-15-13] Point and Shoot [Explore 6-23-13]Point and Shoot [Explore 6-23-13] Super Moon and Turret ArchSuper Moon and Turret Arch Self Portrait - Hiking the FinsSelf Portrait - Hiking the Fins Fresh Snow at Delicate Arch [Explore 2013-12-10]Fresh Snow at Delicate Arch [Explore 2013-12-10] Moonrise over the La SalsMoonrise over the La Sals The Organ and IciclesThe Organ and Icicles North WindowNorth Window Arch Icefall LandscapeArch Icefall Landscape Balanced Rock and Petrified DunesBalanced Rock and Petrified Dunes The Marching MenThe Marching Men

Antelope Canyon

Bears Ears National Monument

Procession PanelProcession Panel House of FireHouse of Fire Fish Mouth Cave DrawFish Mouth Cave Draw Sharpening Stont in Fishmouth CaveSharpening Stont in Fishmouth Cave Handprint Negatives in FishmouthHandprint Negatives in Fishmouth Metate in Monarch CaveMetate in Monarch Cave Comb Ridge North PanoramaComb Ridge North Panorama

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

The Gunnison Route DestinationThe Gunnison Route Destination Exclamation PointExclamation Point The Black Canyon of the GunnisonThe Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Bryce Canyon National Monument

Bryce Amphitheater hoodoo detailsBryce Amphitheater hoodoo details Bryce AmphitheaterBryce Amphitheater Under the FallsUnder the Falls Mossy Cave TrailMossy Cave Trail Navajo Loop HikersNavajo Loop Hikers WindowWindow Sunset Point ViewSunset Point View Hoodoos Through the TreesHoodoos Through the Trees

Canyonlands National Park

Druid Arch Blog BannerDruid Arch Blog Banner Druid ArchDruid Arch Joint Trail tunnelsJoint Trail tunnels Chester Park Overlook panoramaChester Park Overlook panorama Hiker Sunset PanoramaHiker Sunset Panorama

Capitol Reef National Park

The Castle PanoramaThe Castle Panorama The TanksThe Tanks Milky Way Over Chimney RockMilky Way Over Chimney Rock
Campground StarsCampground Stars Saddle ArchSaddle Arch Evening Light at Halls Creek OverlookEvening Light at Halls Creek Overlook

Crack Canyon Wilderness

Tafoni PassTafoni Pass Mirror ValleyMirror Valley Blemished WallsBlemished Walls Bell Canyon Jump-offBell Canyon Jump-off

Great Sand Dunes National Park

Star DuneStar Dune Dunes HikerDunes Hiker Aurora BorealisAurora Borealis Star Dune SunriseStar Dune Sunrise Star TrailsStar Trails

Hovenweep National Monument

Hovenweep Castle MoonriseHovenweep Castle Moonrise Hovenweep Castle at Night Landscape (2)Hovenweep Castle at Night Landscape (2) Collared Lizard FrontCollared Lizard Front

Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde CoyoteMesa Verde Coyote View From Mug HouseView From Mug House Long House AlcolveLong House Alcolve Moonrise in Mesa VerdeMoonrise in Mesa Verde Long HouseLong House Spruce Tree House KivaSpruce Tree House Kiva Point Lookout and Milky WayPoint Lookout and Milky Way Balcony House Star TrailsBalcony House Star Trails Park Entrance SunsetPark Entrance Sunset Sunset Along the Park RoadSunset Along the Park Road Hazy Shiprock from Park PointHazy Shiprock from Park Point Cliff Palace Tower SunsetCliff Palace Tower Sunset

Natural Bridges National Monument

Owachomo with Milky WayOwachomo with Milky Way Kachina Bridge HikerKachina Bridge Hiker Kachina Bridge looking southKachina Bridge looking south White Canyon HikerWhite Canyon Hiker Horse Collar RuinsHorse Collar Ruins Sipapu BridgeSipapu Bridge Sipapu Bridge (2)Sipapu Bridge (2)

Saguaro National Park

The Mighty SaguaroThe Mighty Saguaro Saguaro SunriseSaguaro Sunrise Saguaro SilhouetteSaguaro Silhouette Morning MoonMorning Moon Gila WoodpeckerGila Woodpecker American KestrelAmerican Kestrel

San Juan River

Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park

IMG_8730IMG_8730 IMG_8744IMG_8744 IMG_8750IMG_8750 IMG_8825IMG_8825 IMG_8843IMG_8843 IMG_8795IMG_8795

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado Colorado Plateau New Mexico photography Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2014/1/Colorado-plateau-2013 Sun, 12 Jan 2014 03:15:00 GMT
Mesa Verde National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/11/mesa-verde I moved to Monticello, UT, in 2013 and visited Mesa Verde National Park fairly often. There are a handful of hiking trails to some spectacular viewpoints, abundant wildlife, beautiful wildflowers, and spectacular night skies. There wasn't one trip that stood out for me in particular, other than trying to drive to unsuccessfully drive up during a winter storm for the luminary, but each visit I would see a new bird, hike a new trail, or visit a new cliff dwelling. These are some of my favorite shots from the many times I visited that year.

Kiva EntranceKiva Entrance Moonrise in Mesa VerdeMoonrise in Mesa Verde Spruce Tree HouseSpruce Tree House Petroglyph TrailPetroglyph Trail Petroglyph Trail ViewpointPetroglyph Trail Viewpoint Lizard ProfileLizard Profile Collared LizardCollared Lizard Horny Toad - The GrandfatherHorny Toad - The Grandfather New Growth PanoramaNew Growth Panorama Long-eared OwlLong-eared Owl Black-headed GrosbeakBlack-headed Grosbeak Spotted TowheeSpotted Towhee Swainson's ThrushSwainson's Thrush Western TanagerWestern Tanager Black-chinned HummingbirdBlack-chinned Hummingbird Female Rufous HummingbirdFemale Rufous Hummingbird South Loop Prater RidgeSouth Loop Prater Ridge Sunset Along the Park RoadSunset Along the Park Road Square Tower GroupSquare Tower Group Cliff Palace Tower SunsetCliff Palace Tower Sunset Camouflaged GrasshopperCamouflaged Grasshopper Cotton-tail RabbitCotton-tail Rabbit Foraging Deer CloseupForaging Deer Closeup Mule Deer Bucks in VelvetMule Deer Bucks in Velvet Nursing Fawn and DoeNursing Fawn and Doe Mesa Verde CoyoteMesa Verde Coyote Balcony House KivaBalcony House Kiva Soda Canyon OverlookSoda Canyon Overlook Spruce Tree House Kiva EntranceSpruce Tree House Kiva Entrance Hazy Shiprock from Park PointHazy Shiprock from Park Point Park Point ViewPark Point View Point Lookout SunsetPoint Lookout Sunset Park Entrance SunsetPark Entrance Sunset Sleeping Ute and Abajo SunsetSleeping Ute and Abajo Sunset Lightning From Balcony HouseLightning From Balcony House Mesa Verde Milky WayMesa Verde Milky Way Point Lookout and Milky WayPoint Lookout and Milky Way Balcony House Star TrailsBalcony House Star Trails Glowing Kivas in Blacony HouseGlowing Kivas in Blacony House Shrouded Point LookoutShrouded Point Lookout Mug HouseMug House View From Mug HouseView From Mug House View From Long HouseView From Long House Long House KivaLong House Kiva Long House AlcolveLong House Alcolve

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Colorado Mesa Verde National Park photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/11/mesa-verde Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:00:00 GMT
Capitol Reef National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/9/capitol-reef Hey Everyone, 

Back in 2010, I went on a 30-day road trip where we visited 14 national parks. Capital Reef was one of them, but by accident. On our drive west from Natural Bridges, we just happened to drive through the park without knowing that there was a national park there. It was one of the best accidents that could have happened, because it's such a gem of a place. I knew I wanted to come back for a visit during September when the orchards were fruiting.

So, when I moved to Monticello, UT,  a return trip was high on the list and it was finally time. We arrived in Fruita and could see many of the trees were ripe and ready for picking.

We stocked up on a few bags of peaches and pears. We ate a bunch and also picked a bunch to take home to make a pie or two.

Fruita PeachesFruita Peaches Castle Rock PanoramaCastle Rock Panorama

After the orchards, we headed out to Panorama Point to scout some locations for the night sky. Chimney Rock was a suggestion high on the list.


Panorama Point SunsetPanorama Point Sunset

After taking in the sunset, we headed back to camp to grab some dinner and rest before out night hike to view the stars. We had a few visitors to our camp, including a fawn mule deer and a northern flicker.

Mule deer fawnMule deer fawn Nothern FlickrNothern Flickr

That night we hiked out to the spot we scouted and I set up my tripod. After a few exposures, I finally lined my composition up the way I wanted. 

Milky Way Over Chimney Rock (2)Milky Way Over Chimney Rock (2)

One thing I didn't account for was that my spot was perpendicular to the highway. So when an eastbound car started lighting up Chimney Rock and surround cliffs, I thought my shot was ruined. But to my surprise, it was the perfect amount of light to give a proper exposure of the cliffs and the sky. What another great happy accident!

Milky Way Over Chimney RockMilky Way Over Chimney Rock

Then next morning we made our way down scenic drive to hike Capital Gorge Trail to Pioneer Register and the Tanks. The Pioneer Register has a ton of names, dates, and places carved, painted, and in one case, shot, into the sandstone. Prospectors, explorers, surveyors, cowboys, area settlers, and early visitors would often stand on their wagons to carve their names into the canyon wall. It's high on the wall, out of the flood high-water mark, but still pretty cool to see. 

Pioneer RegisterPioneer Register

Beyond the Pioneer Register, we kept hiking through the canyons and up the wash until we arrived at The Tanks.

They're giant potholes that hold rainwater and snowmelt, which support life in the desert when it it's normally hot and dry. They also have small critters living in them, like tadpole shrimp.

The TanksThe Tanks
Capitol Gorge TrailCapitol Gorge Trail

After our hike we headed back to Fruita to get in the shade of the trees and beat the heat. We also explored more orchards and some petroglyphs.

Orchard Anthropomorph (2)Orchard Anthropomorph (2) Orchard PetroglyphsOrchard Petroglyphs

Once it cooled a bit, we headed back out for more exploring. We hiked the short distance out to the Goosenecks Overlook, which overlooks Sulphur Creek. It's supposed to be a fun off-trail route, but it was a little long for us this trip.

Goosenecks OverlookGoosenecks Overlook

Instead, we hiked from the visitor center up the wash behind The Castle. The geology back there was super interesting with a lot of various geologic layers and cool erosion features.

The Castle PanoramaThe Castle Panorama Castle Wash DrainageCastle Wash Drainage

The next day we moved camp from Fruita down to Cedar Mesa, a primitive campground. The park is long and skinny, and this campground is better located for the more rugged activities of the park. It's also where you get to explore the geologic feature the Waterpocket Fold.

The Waterpocket Fold is the parks main feature and it's almost 100-miles long. It formed between 50 and 70 million years ago and erosion of the tilted rock layers continues today forming colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires, stark monoliths, twisting canyons, and graceful arches. Simply put, it's freaking awesome. The first thing we did is drive up Burr Canyon, through Upper Muley Twist Canyon, and hiked out to the Strike Valley Overlook. One of the cool features along the way is Saddle Arch.

Saddle ArchSaddle Arch

When we saw the view, we realized it was gonna be a great place to watch the sunset, so we hiked back to the car to grab food and beers.

The hike through Upper Muley Twist Canyon is short, but scenic.

Upper Muley Twist CanyonUpper Muley Twist Canyon

Back at the overlook we soaked in it. The views are stunning and nearly endless. And our beers were cold. Win-win.

Will at Strike Valley OverlookWill at Strike Valley Overlook Strike Valley Overlook EveningStrike Valley Overlook Evening

It was a sunset for the books. Back at camp we built a fire to keep warm and take in the stars.

Campground StarsCampground Stars Morning Light on Strike Valley Overlook TrailMorning Light on Strike Valley Overlook Trail

The next morning we headed back to Strike Valley Overlook for one last view, this time with the morning light.

From there we headed south to Surprise Canyon, one of the two accessible slot canyons you can hike. The other is Headquarters Canyon.

Leopard Lizard Body - Gambelia wislizeniiLeopard Lizard Body - Gambelia wislizenii

In the canyon, the walls towered above us. The further in we went, the higher they got. Eventually there is too much breakdown to keep going, so we found a nice ledge that gave us a nice view before turning around.

Will in Suprise CanyonWill in Suprise Canyon

Back at the car we had great views of the Henry Mountains in the distance. They are one of the most remote areas in the lower 48 and I heard there's a buffalo herd out there too.

The Henry MountainsThe Henry Mountains The Henry Mountains PanoramaThe Henry Mountains Panorama

The last thing on the list for the day was to scout out the road to Halls Creek Overlook. For the final day we wanted to hike out to Brimhall Bridge, but we needed to see if our car could make it to the trailhead. Wow, another spectacular view of the Waterpocket Fold, maybe even my favorite view so far.

Evening Light at Halls Creek OverlookEvening Light at Halls Creek Overlook

The next day we came back early and hiked down into the valley, across the wash, and into canyon.

Halls Creek OverlookHalls Creek Overlook Pothole ReflectionsPothole Reflections

It was much more scrambley than we anticipated, but we were able to make it to the crux. It's a giant tank that you have to swim across, and then pull yourself up and out the other side. Unfortunately, the water was about 3 feet lower than it needed to be for us to climb out. It's probably easier to do in the spring or during the monsoon when the water is higher. So we just turned around and headed back to the car. Still a cool hike.

Canyon Swimmin HoleCanyon Swimmin Hole

The hike out was exposed and HOT. Plus we ran out of water. But back at the car we had a cooler full of ice cold water, Tecate, and fresh limes. We hung out for a solid two hours in the shade, drinking and cooling off. Once we were ready to head out, we drove back to Fruita and out along Scenic Drive for sunset. A great end to a great trip.

Capitol Reef WingateCapitol Reef Wingate Wingate from Divide PassWingate from Divide Pass

It's also good that we were planning to leave, because that night the government shut down and the park closed. They let us stay the night in the campground, but the following morning, everyone was asked to leave and they started putting up closure signs.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Capital Reef National Park photography Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/9/capitol-reef Mon, 30 Sep 2013 23:29:00 GMT
Green River: Gates of Lodore to Split Mountain https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/9/gates-lodore I was invited to Dinosaur National Monument for some hiking and a four-day river trip. It was my first visit to the park so I was excited. I didn't do much the first day since I arrived fairly late, but I did take the opportunity to check out the stars, which were nice.

Milky Way LandscapeMilky Way Landscape

I woke up early the following morning, checked out the views of Split Mountain near the campground and saw a couple critters.

Split Mountain Sunrise WideSplit Mountain Sunrise Wide House FinchHouse Finch Prairie DogPrairie Dog Desert Cotton TailDesert Cotton Tail

After breakfast, we jumped in the car to explore by car. We drive around to the northern parts of the park via Island Park Road. The first stop was at Rainbow Park where we checked out the views along the river and hiked out to some petroglyphs

Splint Mountain from Rainbow Park ShoreSplint Mountain from Rainbow Park Shore Lizard HeadLizard Head Rainbow ParkRainbow Park Rainbow Park Petroglyphs(3)Rainbow Park Petroglyphs(3)

The next stops along the road was McKee Springs Petroglyphs, Island Park Overlook, and out to the end of the road until it dead ends at the river.

Mckee Springs Petroglyphs(2)Mckee Springs Petroglyphs(2) Mckee Springs PetroglyphsMckee Springs Petroglyphs Island Park PanoramaIsland Park Panorama Lizard FullLizard Full Ruple Ranch ShorelineRuple Ranch Shoreline
Then we backtracked all the way back around and drove out to Harpers Corner Road to overlook the Canyon. The canyon views are spectacular and we even saw some elk and a moose. 

View From Harpers Corner TrailView From Harpers Corner Trail

Echo Park 4x4 Road was in decent shape, so we drove down to the confluence to explore around. We would be back here in a few days as part of the river trip.

Echo Park FlowersEcho Park Flowers Steamboat Rock and Echo ParkSteamboat Rock and Echo Park Sunset below the ConfluenceSunset below the Confluence Camouflaged ToadCamouflaged Toad

The last thing we did to round out the whirlwind of a day was to pop in the Quarry Exhibit Hall and nearby trails to check out the dinosaur fossils.

Camarasaurus SkullCamarasaurus Skull TailTail Split MountainSplit Mountain Split Mountain With CloudsSplit Mountain With Clouds

The next day was the start of our river trip. We drove out to the put in at Gates of Lodore and shoved off with a few other larger groups.

Gates of LodoreGates of Lodore Group Float Through Lodore CanyonGroup Float Through Lodore Canyon

The biggest rapids on this section of the river was Disaster Falls, Triplet Falls, and Hells Half Mile. Nothing crazy, but some fun splashy rapids. I took the opportunity to pull over and shoot some groups navigating the rapids.

Kayakers on the GreenKayakers on the Green Lower Disaster FallsLower Disaster Falls Hell's Half MileHell's Half Mile Triplet FallsTriplet Falls Triplet FallsTriplet Falls

Our first camp was at Kolb Beach. It was right on the water with some nice canyon views.

Kolb CampKolb Camp

In addition to to beautiful canyon views, we had some great wildlife sightings including desert bighorn sheep.

Baby Desert BighornBaby Desert Bighorn Desert BighornsDesert Bighorns Desert BighornDesert Bighorn Osprey and Breakfast Take FlightOsprey and Breakfast Take Flight BeaverBeaver Double-crested CormorantsDouble-crested Cormorants Great Blue HeronGreat Blue Heron

Our next camp was on a beach along near flat water. We has two fishers run through camp briefly, but I wasn't able to get a good photo, just enough for a positive identification.

Morning LightMorning Light

We set off early and did a quick pitstop at Echo Park. It was pretty busy there so we didn't stay long. 

Lunch at Echo ParkLunch at Echo Park Mitten Park FaultMitten Park Fault

We pulled over at the Jones Hole Campground to stretch our legs and hike up to see some pictographs.

Jones Hole Creek HikeJones Hole Creek Hike Jones Hole PictographJones Hole Pictograph Jones Hole Creek Meets the GreenJones Hole Creek Meets the Green

That night our camp along the river was finally out of the canyon so we could see the stars. I hung out for a while after dark to take in the views before calling it a night.

River Under the StarsRiver Under the Stars

The next day we traveled through Rainbow Park and the final stretch through Split Mountain. The rapids through there were pretty splashy so I kept my camera in the case.

Split Mountain from the RiverSplit Mountain from the River Split Mountain ReflectionsSplit Mountain Reflections

Trip notes: I was blown away by Dinosaur National Monument. It's hard to believe that this place isn't a designated national park. It was great to explore the park by roads, but I feel that I really go to see the park by doing the river trip. This trip was a little over 45 river miles total. I was invited back to do a trip on the Yampa if I can time it correctly, so finger crossed. I definitely want to come back and explore this place even more.

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Dinosaur National Monument float trip Green River Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/9/gates-lodore Sat, 14 Sep 2013 22:00:00 GMT
Upper Antelope Canyon https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/9/antelope-canyon Hey everyone!

Corrie and I just got back from an afternoon exploring Upper Antelope Canyon on the Navajo Reservation. It's a fairly short slot canyon, but it's extremely popular because you can drive to it and it's beautiful. You need to go with a guide and we had the option to go with a larger group of people or on a photo tour. We opted for the cheaper route, which made it difficult to compose some shots, but they did try to make sure people could get the photos they wanted. Overall, it was a worthwhile visit to see it once, but we probably won't make it back. Here are my favorite shots from our visit!


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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Arizona Navajo Reservation photography Upper Antelope Canyon https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/9/antelope-canyon Sat, 14 Sep 2013 02:41:00 GMT
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/8/Black-Canyon-Gunnison Hey everyone,

We just got back from a long weekend of camping and hiking in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It was the first time visiting for both of us. We left after work and arrived to the south rim of the park just as it was getting dark. Turns out there was a star party that night, and we were able to check out a bunch of cool constellations through some huge telescopes.

Camping Under the Milky WayCamping Under the Milky Way

The next morning we woke up early to take some photos of the viewpoints of the canyon from the road.

Tomichi Point Sunrise PanoramaTomichi Point Sunrise Panorama The Painted Wall Overlook SunriseThe Painted Wall Overlook Sunrise Lone JuniperLone Juniper

Once the visitor center opened, we headed in to get a Wilderness permit so we could "hike" down into the canyon. We were able to secure a permit for the Gunnison Route. It's only 1.5 miles long, but you drop 1,800. In the steepest section, there are chains installed to help you up and down the route.

The Gunnison RouteThe Gunnison Route

Once we made it down to the river, we carefully made our way around the bushes of poison ivy and found a nice rock to sit on and have lunch.

The Gunnison Route DestinationThe Gunnison Route Destination The Gunnison Route DestinationThe Gunnison Route Destination The Gunnison River DownstreamThe Gunnison River Downstream The Gunnison Route Campground ViewThe Gunnison Route Campground View

Since the weather was calling for high temps, we decided to bring our water filter. I ended up drinking nine liters of water: two on the way down, four at the river, and three on the way up. I would've drank more, but my pack only held three and I ran out on the way up. Turns out you can drink too much water... Just as we made it out of the canyon and back to relatively flat ground, I started getting serious cramps. I would stretch them out, walk for a minute and they would come back. Corrie is an EMT and realized that I was out of salt. She had a packet of Gatorade powder in her pack, but we didn't have water so I just ate it. It was like doing the cracker challenge. Trying to swallow powder without any saliva is, interesting. After I choked it down, my cramps were gone in like ten minutes. Lesson learned, but crazy stuff.

Back at the campground, we made dinner and then went out to the canyon for sunset. Not great light but some cool views of the pegmatite.

North Rim Campground ViewNorth Rim Campground View

The next day we woke up and getting out of the tent was HARD. We had the serious canyon shuffle going on. We ate breakfast and enjoyed the sunrise near camp.

The weather was looking good, so we decided to go on a longer, flatter hike out to Exclamation Point. This turned out to be my favorite view of the canyon. From this angle you get a spectacular view for how steep the canyon walls are.

Exclamation PointExclamation Point Exclamation PointExclamation Point The Black Canyon of the GunnisonThe Black Canyon of the Gunnison

That evening we explored the viewpoints along the north rim. They are beautiful in a different way. The views on the south rim have grand panoramic views of big, steep walls, which is what the canyon is famous for. On the north side, the canyon seems more weathered and less steep, but it has lots of spires. 

The next day we had to drive home, but we decided to go for a short birding hike at sunrise to stretch our legs. We saw a handful of birds and critters, including a curious coyote. 

Western TanagerWestern Tanager Baby Cotton-tailBaby Cotton-tail Northern FlickerNorthern Flicker Western BluebirdWestern Bluebird The Trickster - Coyote in Black Canyon National ParkThe Trickster - Coyote in Black Canyon National Park The Trickster - Coyote in Black Canyon National Park (2)The Trickster - Coyote in Black Canyon National Park (2) Tree Fort ChipmunkTree Fort Chipmunk Hanging in the Tree FortHanging in the Tree Fort

After the hike we headed back to the canyon for one last look before we headed out.

Apart from the loads of poison ivy in the canyon, this was such a fun park to explore. Definitely "hike" into the canyon if you can get a permit and explore the north rim. It was much less developed and crowded, which we preferred. Another awesome trip to a great park!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Colorado hiking photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/8/Black-Canyon-Gunnison Mon, 12 Aug 2013 22:35:00 GMT
San Juan River: Sand Island to Mexican Hat https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/8/san-juan-river Hey everyone!

Back in March, I went on my first San Juan River trip. Recently, I had the opportunity to run the same stretch back-to-back, this time in June and July. The logistics were essentially the same with a few different hiking spots. Here are the highlights from the combined trips!

The most obvious change from these trips and March was the weather. The river was a much lower CFS, warmer, and way clearer. We put on and floated to our first stop: Butler Wash Petroglyphs. You can't do the San Juan without stopping at Butler Wash Panel and the River House.

Back on the river we floated to camp to hang out in the shade/water for the rest of the day to escape the heat.

The next morning, since our group had a permit, we hiked on the Navajo Indian Reservation up Chinle Creek to some archaeological sites.

We got to see the "Baseball Man," which is one of the cooler pictographs I've seen.


We hiked back to the boats and made our way towards the canyon. Just after we shoved off, we floated past this group of wild horses on the reservation.

When we made it to camp it was so hot in the canyon. The hot sun bakes the rock all day long and even after the sun sets, the heat radiates off the rocks into the night. We decided to sleep on the beach instead of pitching a tent. It turned out to be a smart move.

The next morning we shoved off early to beat the heat. We spent a lot of time in the water swimming vs. being in the boat. During the hottest part of the day, literally everyone was out of the boats and in the water. Even though the water was around 80 degrees, it felt much cooler than the 110 degrees air temperature.


We pulled over for a geologic stop to check out some crinoid stems and nautiloid casts. It was my first time learning about those, which were cool to see. Also found a cool spider and some damselflys on a log. 

The last time of the river we saw a desert bighorn ewe and lamb, but this time around we saw a couple rams. 

There were a surprising amount of birds, too. My favorites we saw were a sandpiper, evening grosbeak, peregrine falcon, spotted towhee, and yellow breasted chat. It's crazy to me that we're in this hot desert, but as long as there's water, there's wildlife.

Also there were lizards this time around. Apparently it was too cold for them in March.

When we made it to Mexican Hat, Corrie had the same epiphany as me about the name of the town.

Even with long sleeves and sunscreen, I'm starting to get a nice desert tan with all these days on the river. Feels good and I can't wait for my next trip!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) float trip photography San Juan River Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/8/san-juan-river Sat, 03 Aug 2013 14:54:00 GMT
Rocky Mountain: Andrews Tarn https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/7/andrews-tarn We had a long weekend planned and decided to meet up with Corrie's parents for an overnight in Rocky Mountain National Park. Driving up from Moab, UT, we arrived in Grand Lake and made the drive over Trail Ridge Road. We stopped at the Alpine Visitor Center to check out the views. This was my first time being over 12K ft elevation and I could definitely feel the altitude. Once we were on the east side of the pass, we started seeing lots of elk and deer with their antlers in velvet. 

Bull Elk in VelvetBull Elk in Velvet Mule Deer Buck in VelvetMule Deer Buck in Velvet

The following morning we picked up our permit and headed to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. Our camp spot was only a few miles in, so we dropped our gear and decided to hike up to Andrews Tarn.

Approach to Andrews TarnApproach to Andrews Tarn Otis Peak RidgeOtis Peak Ridge

The mountain views on the way up to the lake were spectacular. Jagged spires in all directions, lots of wildflowers, and sounds of marmots and pikas echoed around us.

Andrews Tower and Sharks ToothAndrews Tower and Sharks Tooth
Once we were up at the lake we grabbed some lunch and enjoyed the views.

Andrew's GlacierAndrew's Glacier

Once we sat down, we started noticing all the little critters around us. Pika gathering grass for the winter, marmots sunning on the rocks, and even a baby marmot hiding in the rocks.

American PikaAmerican Pika Winter prepWinter prep
Yellow-bellied Marmot at Andrew's GlacierYellow-bellied Marmot at Andrew's Glacier Yellow-bellied MarmotYellow-bellied Marmot Baby Yellow-bellied MarmotBaby Yellow-bellied Marmot

It's fairly common for afternoon thunderstorms in the CO mountains, so we slowly started making our way back to camp as the clouds started to build.

View from Andrew's Glacier LakeView from Andrew's Glacier Lake SharkstoothSharkstooth Avens in the AlpineAvens in the Alpine Andrew's Glacier TrailAndrew's Glacier Trail

Back in camp we headed into our tents as the skies opened up. We listened to the rain on the tent and the thunder echo around us. The rest of the evening we hung out in camp and relaxed. The following morning we woke up early and made our way back to the car. We had beautiful weather on the hike out.

The LochThe Loch Dark-eyed JuncoDark-eyed Junco Coleoptera bBeetleColeoptera bBeetle Glacier GorgeGlacier Gorge

Once back at the car we had to head back home, but mad a short detour to take our photo at the sign before we left. A very short, but fun trip to a new national park for me!

ROMO Sign PhotoROMO Sign Photo

Trip notes: even though we only hiked 9 miles, it was tough backpacking at that elevation for the first time. I REALLY felt the altitude at the top of the road just walking around. I made sure to drink a bunch of water and take my time hiking which seemed to help. Looking forward to returning for more trips!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Colorado Rocky Mountain National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/7/andrews-tarn Sat, 20 Jul 2013 16:05:00 GMT
Arches National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/6/Arches I moved to Monticello, UT, in February and spent a lot of time hiking in Arches. Instead of writing about each weekend trip, I decided to throw my favorites in a single blog to make it easier to peruse. One of the benefits of living in the area is to see a place like Arches throughout the year in different seasons. It's harder to hike around in deep snow, but it sure does add a whole new level of beauty to the red rock. If you'd Like to see photos from the surrounding area, check out my favorites from the Colorado Plateau.

Self Portrait - North WindowSelf Portrait - North Window Self Portrait - Double ArchSelf Portrait - Double Arch Hiking in the Fiery FurnaceHiking in the Fiery Furnace TafoniTafoni Skull ArchSkull Arch Tight SqueezeTight Squeeze Delicate ArchDelicate Arch Cloudy Sunset at Delicate ArchCloudy Sunset at Delicate Arch Landscape Arch and LaSal MountainLandscape Arch and LaSal Mountain Arches PetroglyphsArches Petroglyphs Map LichenMap Lichen Wave of RockWave of Rock Self Portrait - Delicate Arch at Night [Explored 4-15-13]Self Portrait - Delicate Arch at Night [Explored 4-15-13] Sunrise in ArchesSunrise in Arches Sunrise at Delicate ArchSunrise at Delicate Arch The WindowsThe Windows Point and Shoot [Explore 6-23-13]Point and Shoot [Explore 6-23-13] Super Moon and Turret ArchSuper Moon and Turret Arch Dark Angel SunsetDark Angel Sunset Arches SunsetArches Sunset Sunset StormSunset Storm Courthouse Wash PictographsCourthouse Wash Pictographs Firey Furnace hikerFirey Furnace hiker Milky Way and Turret ArchMilky Way and Turret Arch Neal and Kait in the North WindowNeal and Kait in the North Window Morning Light at Landscape ArchMorning Light at Landscape Arch Shades of RedShades of Red Walking on AirWalking on Air Hypnotized by FireHypnotized by Fire Tower of Babel and Pipe OrganTower of Babel and Pipe Organ Broken Arch PanoramaBroken Arch Panorama Tinaja and La SalsTinaja and La Sals The Windows and La SalsThe Windows and La Sals Eye of the Whale Hikers SilhouetteEye of the Whale Hikers Silhouette Eye of the Whale ArchEye of the Whale Arch Pine Tree Arch HikerPine Tree Arch Hiker Corrie in Saddle ArchCorrie in Saddle Arch Dead Piñon Pine and FinsDead Piñon Pine and Fins Self Portrait - Hiking the FinsSelf Portrait - Hiking the Fins Dark AngelDark Angel Grazing DeerGrazing Deer The CelebrationThe Celebration IMG_0252IMG_0252 La Sal SunsetLa Sal Sunset Sand Dune Arch HikerSand Dune Arch Hiker Fresh Snow at Delicate Arch [Explore 2013-12-10]Fresh Snow at Delicate Arch [Explore 2013-12-10] Delicate Arch and AlpenglowDelicate Arch and Alpenglow Wingate MoonWingate Moon Moonrise over the La SalsMoonrise over the La Sals Hoar FrostHoar Frost The Organ and IciclesThe Organ and Icicles Turret Arch and La SalsTurret Arch and La Sals Full Moon at Balanced RockFull Moon at Balanced Rock The Organ from Park AvenueThe Organ from Park Avenue Utah JuniperUtah Juniper Taking in the Balanced Rock SunsetTaking in the Balanced Rock Sunset Follow the Yellow Brick RoadFollow the Yellow Brick Road Waiting for the SunsetWaiting for the Sunset Evening Light Near the WindowsEvening Light Near the Windows Cold SilhouettesCold Silhouettes Loggerhead ShrikeLoggerhead Shrike Good Morning from Delicate ArchGood Morning from Delicate Arch North Window SkyNorth Window Sky Arch Icefall LandscapeArch Icefall Landscape Arch Icefall PortraitArch Icefall Portrait Glowing LichenGlowing Lichen Stormy La SalsStormy La Sals Balanced Rock and Petrified DunesBalanced Rock and Petrified Dunes Crimson CliffsCrimson Cliffs Tunnel ArchTunnel Arch Last Warmth of the DayLast Warmth of the Day Winter Sunset Through the WindowsWinter Sunset Through the Windows Jean LachanceJean Lachance The Quiet ColdThe Quiet Cold Dunefield FormationsDunefield Formations Fresh Snow in Devils GardenFresh Snow in Devils Garden Pine Tree ArchPine Tree Arch Snowy Double O ArchSnowy Double O Arch Snowy Fins and CanyonsSnowy Fins and Canyons Fiery FinsFiery Fins La Sal Overlook Panorama WideLa Sal Overlook Panorama Wide Petrified Dunes PanoramaPetrified Dunes Panorama Polychromatic SunsetPolychromatic Sunset Park AvenuePark Avenue Puzzle Pieces on Wall StreetPuzzle Pieces on Wall Street The Klondike BluffsThe Klondike Bluffs The Marching MenThe Marching Men Tower Arch ViewTower Arch View Bluebird Day at Tower ArchBluebird Day at Tower Arch Skyline Arch from Salt ValleySkyline Arch from Salt Valley Bobcat TrackBobcat Track Hiker Overlooking Salt ValleyHiker Overlooking Salt Valley Eagle Park FormationsEagle Park Formations Moises Martinez 2/3/1924Moises Martinez 2/3/1924 Hiker in the Knockdown ZoomHiker in the Knockdown Zoom Looking down on Park AvenueLooking down on Park Avenue Dune Field and LasalsDune Field and Lasals Juniper SunsetJuniper Sunset Sunset Near Turret ArchSunset Near Turret Arch Magic Hour in the WindowsMagic Hour in the Windows Magic Hour Milky Way at the WindowsMagic Hour Milky Way at the Windows Silhouetted GiantsSilhouetted Giants Sunrise Throught the North WindowSunrise Throught the North Window Sunrise at the WindowsSunrise at the Windows Morning Light on the North and South WindowMorning Light on the North and South Window Fisher Towers SilhouetteFisher Towers Silhouette Lindsey on Sand Dune Arch TrailLindsey on Sand Dune Arch Trail First Light Over the FinsFirst Light Over the Fins Chris above Landscape ArchChris above Landscape Arch Lindsey Enjoying the Sunset at Delicate ArchLindsey Enjoying the Sunset at Delicate Arch Delicate Arch Sunset SpectatorsDelicate Arch Sunset Spectators Delicate Arch SunsetDelicate Arch Sunset Milky Way over Turret ArchMilky Way over Turret Arch MilkyWay Rising Above JuniperMilkyWay Rising Above Juniper Milky Way, Juniper, and Turret ArchMilky Way, Juniper, and Turret Arch
 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Arches National Park photography Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/6/Arches Sat, 29 Jun 2013 12:36:00 GMT
Natural Bridges National Monument https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/5/natural-bridges Hey everyone,

I had the opportunity to visit Natural Bridges National Monument for the second time. But before I get into this trip, I wanted to share about my visit from the first trip. It's one of my more memorable stories of what NOT to do.

Back in 2010, a friend and I went on a 30-day road trip and one of our stops was Natural Bridges. We arrived later in the evening and the campground was already full. There are lots of BLM primitive camping spots in the area so we drove out of the park and found a spot for the night. The next day we packed up camp, headed back to the park to hike. The full loop is 12-miles and passes all three natural bridges as it winds through the canyons and over the mesa top. This trail is "primitive" and strenuous.

We popped into the visitor center to ask about maps and trail conditions. The volunteer behind the desk told us the trail is "easy to follow" and there were signs at the junctions. We were in good hiking shape, so for 12 miles we planned to take about 6 hours with lunch and photo stops. We left the visitor center about 9:30am and were on trail by 10. That meant we should be leaving by 4pm, at the latest.

We dropped our car off at Sipapu Bridge Trailhead and hiked down into the canyon. After a quick descent, we arrived at Sipapu and took some photos. We continued on for a couple miles until we came across Horse Collar Ruins. We popped in to check out the rock art and ruins and then continued along the route. Not long after we arrived at Kachina Bridge and stopped for lunch, on schedule.

As we started hiking again, the route came to a dead end at a pour spout. We looked around for a way out, then backtracked to Kachina Bridge and looked at our park brochure "map." We agreed that the route on the map looked like it went that way, but we couldn't figure it out. Back at the lunch spot we found a set of footprints. Even though they were going a different direction than what we thought was correct, maybe these people knew where they were going. Off we went.

This section of the route was more challenging than the other sections we had done to this point, but it was still doable and the trail description was "strenuous." After winding through the canyon for an a couple hours, still no bridge. "Maybe it's just around this next corner," we said to ourselves. The day was so nice and it was early so we didn't really think too much of it. Fast forward another hour and we started getting a little worried. We made a plan, if we don't see the bridge in another 15 minutes, we would turnaround and hike back to Kachina. Just as we're discussing our plan, we heard voices in the canyon. It was the people whose footprints we had been following. I yell out to get their attention. They call back and I look up and see two tents on a bench. Shit.

Tents are a bad thing to see because there's no backcountry camping in Natural Bridges. That means we're probably not in Natural Bridges. I climb up to the group and explain our situation. The camper holds up a map (the one we were told not to buy in the visitor center) and uses it as a prop to illustrate that we're off the map by about two inches. After some quick calculating, we determined that we had hiked about seven miles in the wrong direction. So our 12 mile day just turned into a marathon, because the only way out, was the way back. The group offered to fill up our water and we started hiking as fast as we could.

About five miles later it started drizzling on us. Which wasn't terrible since we were hot and tired. When it started pouring, it was less fun. Especially since I didn't bring a rain jacket. The weather wasn't calling for rain until later in the day and we would be off trail by then. When we made it back to Kachina Bridge it was dusk, but the storm made it darker than normal. The silver lining is that there were more footprints this late in the day and it turns out that the trail climbed out of the canyon. For whatever reason we didn't see the trail and it wasn't marked very well. More on that later.

As we climbed out of the canyon, there were occasional cairns marking the route across the sandstone. Unfortunately, I also forgot my headlamp, because we were only planning on hiking until late-afternoon. My friend had hers, so when we found a cairn, I would stay next to it while she walked around in the dark and pouring rain looking for the next one. After doing this for about an hour we finally made it to the Kachina Bridge Trailhead where we walked back to my car along the road.

Right around 10pm, we made it back to my car and the rain to let up a little bit. We changed our clothes, made dinner, then drove back to the BLM campground from the night before to set up camp. We were able to get our same spot again, but this time it was a little muddy. Once our tent was setup and we were in our bags, the rain picked up again, harder than before. Unfortunately, we set up our tent in what appeared to be a runoff channel or something because our tent started to flood with water and red mud. So we jump out of the tent, grabbed the trowels, and started to dig a moat. After a while of that we were able to channel the water and mud away enough that it stopped going into the tent.

The next morning we got up at first light to break camp. With little to no sleep, we headed back to the park to use the restrooms to dry our stuff and make breakfast. We decided to stay until the visitor center opened again to see if we could chat with the guy from the day before. Sure enough, he was there and we filled him in on our exploits from the previous day. He said with the rain the previous two day, there was some flooding in the canyon that washed away some of the cairns and trail signs. Cool. If only we had a map...

That trip I learned a lot about what you should bring hiking no matter what. And I learned that I could hike a marathon through canyons and rain in the dark if I needed to.

Enough with the horror story...

I was back and looking for redemption. We planned to do the full loop, this time in reverse so I could see if the Kachina section was easier to navigate going the other way. And, I could finally see the last of the three bridges, Owachomo. We arrived from Monticello late that evening and set up camp. Now that I'm into night photography, I figured Owachomo had the best alignment for Milky Way photos. We hiked out in the dark and we weren't disappointed. I think it was one of the darkest skies I had ever seen. Once our eyes adjusted, you could see your shadow agains the slickrock from the light of the stars. After an hour or so we headed back to camp to catch some sleep for the hike the following morning.

Owachomo with Milky WayOwachomo with Milky Way Owachomo with Star TrailsOwachomo with Star Trails

We hiked back to Owachomo to take in the views during the day. It's the "oldest" of the three bridges, meaning that it's further along in its life of erosion. Kachina is the youngest and Sipapu is between the two.

Owachomo Bridge with approaching stormOwachomo Bridge with approaching storm Owachomo Storm CloudsOwachomo Storm Clouds Owachomo BridgeOwachomo Bridge

After exploring around and taking in all the angles, we started hiking towards Kachina. The other cool thing about this trip versus the last, is that the wildflowers were in bloom this time. It's always cool to see flowers in the desert.

Owachomo Bridge with hikerOwachomo Bridge with hiker Bluestem Penstamon - Penstemon cyanocaulisBluestem Penstamon - Penstemon cyanocaulis Whipple's Fishhook Cactus - Sclerocactus whippleiWhipple's Fishhook Cactus - Sclerocactus whipplei

The trail from Owachomo to Kachina is though Armstrong Canyon. Not super steep walls, but beautiful scenery to keep your attention while you hike.

Armstrong CanyonArmstrong Canyon

We also found some interesting things along the way, including a giant clump of tree sap and a tree full of debris from the last flash flood. It's crazy to see how high the water can get, even in a canyon that doesn't slot out.

Pine sap clumpPine sap clump High Water MarkHigh Water Mark Armstrong Canyon approaching Kachina BridgeArmstrong Canyon approaching Kachina Bridge

And we saw more wildflowers.

Stemless Woollybase - Hymenoxys acaulisStemless Woollybase - Hymenoxys acaulis Peppergrass - Lepidium montanumPeppergrass - Lepidium montanum African Mustard - Strigosella africanaAfrican Mustard - Strigosella africana

Eventually we made it to the spot in the trail we got turned around last time. Just as I remembered, there was a giant pour spout without any apparent way down, or up. This time, there were cairns and signs marking the way. This time the trail was "easy to follow."

Trail above Kachina BridgeTrail above Kachina Bridge

We hiked up to Kachina and like last time, we decided to sit in the shade of the bridge and have lunch. I was able to give Corrie the play-by-play from the previous trip, where she pretended to understand how we could have gotten so lost on this "easy to follow" trail.

Hiker approaching Kachina BridgeHiker approaching Kachina Bridge Kachina Bridge HikerKachina Bridge Hiker Kachina Bridge looking southKachina Bridge looking south

After lunch we continued up canyon, headed towards Horse Collar Ruins. We saw more flowers and a cool old crooked cottonwood tree that had fallen over.

Hiking clockwise on Canyon Trail from Kachina BridgeHiking clockwise on Canyon Trail from Kachina Bridge Bastard Toadflax - Comandra umbellataBastard Toadflax - Comandra umbellata Western Wallflower - Erysimum capitatumWestern Wallflower - Erysimum capitatum
Hiker under fallen cottonwood treeHiker under fallen cottonwood tree

The views in White Canyon are gorgeous as the walls get steeper and steeper. Eventually we arrived at Horse Collar and we climbed up to check out the rock art and ruins. And more wildflowers!

White Canyon HikerWhite Canyon Hiker Pictographs and PetroglyphsPictographs and Petroglyphs Pictographs and Petroglyphs FramedPictographs and Petroglyphs Framed Horse Collar RuinsHorse Collar Ruins Ruins near Horse CollarRuins near Horse Collar
Ruins With a ViewRuins With a View Colorado Plateau Pladderpod - Physaria rectipesColorado Plateau Pladderpod - Physaria rectipes Basin Groundsel - Senecio multilobatusBasin Groundsel - Senecio multilobatus

We finally arrived at the last bridge just as the light started to get really nice. Between the breaking storm and the time of day, it made for ideal photo conditions.

Sipapu BridgeSipapu Bridge Sipapu Bridge HikerSipapu Bridge Hiker Under Sipapu BridgeUnder Sipapu Bridge Sipapu Bridge (3)Sipapu Bridge (3)

As we climbed out of the canyon, we kept stopping for photos from the different viewpoints. 

Sipapu Bridge (2)Sipapu Bridge (2) Sipapu Bridge SunsetSipapu Bridge Sunset

Just before we got back to the trailhead we came across a rock with some really interesting ripple patterns in the rock. I was never really into geology until I got into caving, but now anytime I see a cool rock with interesting patterns I can't help but take photos and think about the fact that the area used to be a giant inland sea.

Sandstone patternsSandstone patterns

Just before we got back to the top I saw one last wildflower. After all the shit that happened to us on the first trip, I sorta felt like this was the park's way of making amends with me. It's a great park and totally worth your time if you're in the area and like to hike. If you made it this far in the blog, thanks for sticking with me!

Rocky Mountain clematisRocky Mountain clematis

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) hiking Natural Bridges National Monument photography Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/5/natural-bridges Tue, 14 May 2013 03:27:00 GMT
Canyonlands: Salt Creek and Horse Canyon https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/4/salt-creek-horse-canyon Hey everyone,

We just got back from a couple nights in the Needles District of Canyonlands. We started out at the Peekaboo Campground and explored the pictograph panel. This is one of the more popular panels in the park and it's a fun day hike to do the Peekaboo Loop.

Peekaboo Panel (2)Peekaboo Panel (2) Peekaboo Hand PrintsPeekaboo Hand Prints Peekaboo ManPeekaboo Man Peekaboo Hand NegativePeekaboo Hand Negative

We also found what appeared to be some frog eggs and tadpoles. Kinda crazy to find this stuff in desert environments.

Frog eggs and tadpolesFrog eggs and tadpoles

From the campground, we hiked off trail up the canyon just east of the campground. There are a few potholes that hold water late into the spring. Our plan was to find one, set up basecamp, and then day hike into Horse Canyon.

We found a feature that looked promising, so we dropped our packs to scout it out. Success! We found water, now we just needed to find a flat spot to set up camp, ideally out of the sand. We climbed just above the pool and found a nice flat slick rock ledge to set up camp. Time to go grab the packs.

Pour Spout LandscapePour Spout Landscape Pothole reflectionsPothole reflections Pour Spout Hiker LandscapePour Spout Hiker Landscape

We also noticed just above camp that there were some pictographs in the distance. We climbed up to them and found a granary, including this ancient little corn cob. So freaking cool!

Desert-preserved CorncobDesert-preserved Corncob

Back at camp, it seems that we weren't the only ones that thought this was a cool place to stay. As we looked around we found all kinds of pot sherds scattered on the ground.

Painted WarePainted Ware Painted Ware ReversePainted Ware Reverse

Since we were near water, we also saw a handful of wildflower species too. Always a treat to see flowers in the desert.

Cliff Fendlerbush - Fendlera rupicolaCliff Fendlerbush - Fendlera rupicola Narrowleaf Stoneseed - Lithospermum incisumNarrowleaf Stoneseed - Lithospermum incisum Easter Daisy - Townsendia incanaEaster Daisy - Townsendia incana Spectacle Pod - Dimorphocarpa wislizeniiSpectacle Pod - Dimorphocarpa wislizenii Golden Corydalis - Corydalis aureaGolden Corydalis - Corydalis aurea

For sunset, we carried our dinner up a little higher to take in the views of the canyon and scout our route into Horse Canyon for the next day. This place is gorgeous.

Hiker Sunset PanoramaHiker Sunset Panorama

The next morning we had a beautiful sunrise and bluebird sky. We spent the early morning taking photos when the light was best, then headed back to camp to eat and head out for the day.

From our camp, we picked our way through the layers of rock as we climbed higher and higher. It's not always clear on a map what goes and doesn't, so it's like a huge puzzle you have to solve. It's super fun to explore your way through the maze.

Exploring Salt Creek Canyon(2)Exploring Salt Creek Canyon(2) Exploring Salt Creek CanyonExploring Salt Creek Canyon

Eventually we found a break in the wall and were able to pass into Horse Canyon. There are so many nooks and crannies to explore, you could be out here forever and never get bored. As long as you have water, that is.

  Explring Horse CanyonExplring Horse Canyon

We made our way down in the the canyon and across the wash. From there we walked over to explore Paul Bunyan's Potty Arch. Kind of a weird name, but a super cool feature to explore.

  Paul Bunyon's Potty ArchPaul Bunyon's Potty Arch

The views looking out into the canyon are beautiful from under the arch. Also super nice spot to hang out in the shade during the heat of the day.

  Hikers Near Paul Bunyon's PottyHikers Near Paul Bunyon's Potty

As we made our way back towards camp, we kept coming across other arc sites. We found another granary with a door and a structure of some kind with an old ladder leading to it high up in the cliffs. No idea how to get over there, but it seems these people had some serious climbing skills.

The following morning we had another beautiful sunrise. We ate and packed up early to beat the heat.

Salt Creek Canyon SunriseSalt Creek Canyon Sunrise

On the hike out we came across some mountain lion tracks in the wash. One day I'll get the chance to see one of these guys in the wild.

Overall great trip to a spectacular park. I look forward to exploring more in this place. Every time I do, I'm blown away!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Canyonlands National Park Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/4/salt-creek-horse-canyon Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:46:00 GMT
San Juan River: Sand Island to Mexican Hat https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/3/san-juan-river Hey everyone!

I just got back from a three-day trip on the San Juan River. I've been whitewater rafting a handful of times, but this was my first overnight trip. Since it's spring, the water was very cold and muddy, but it was warm in the sun.

We loaded up the boats and shoved off at Sand Island Campground.

After a few miles of floating, we got the Butler Wash Petroglyph Panel. The first thing I noticed were a bunch of holes carved into the rocks, called Moki steps. Then there were HUGE panels that you could see from the river. We pulled over for a quick stop.

Just below the Butler Wash panels, we stopped again at the River House. It's estimated these dwellings were occupied by the Ancestral Puebloans sometime between 900 and the late 1200s. At the site there are pictographs, petroglyphs, and multiple rooms to explore.

On the way back to the boat I noticed some beaver prints. We shoved off from the site and set up camp at Lime Ridge, a short way down for the evening.


I've been wanting to learn how to do night photography, so I recently bought a new wide angle lens. I woke up that night to play around with it and I was able to get a shot I'm pretty proud of for the first go around.

The next morning we hiked a short bit up to Comb Ridge. Along the way we found lots of cool bit of historic and prehistoric garbage including pot sherds and an old Shasta can.

A short way up Comb Ridge, you can get a good view of the river and surrounding geology.

One of the prominent features is the Mules Eat diatreme. Apparently you can find garnet in the area if you're looking in the right spot.

Back at camp we packed up and put back on the river. Not too long after, we entered the San Juan Canyon.

The beautiful orange and cream colors of the canyon walls set against the blue sky was spectacular. Since the river was running pretty high we could mostly sit and watch the scenery move by us. Around each bend were more and more beautiful views.

We pulled over for the night to camp at Lower Eight Foot. The afternoon light on the walls was awesome. It acted like a giant reflector. It made the whole canyon and everything in it glow like it does during a sunrise or sunset. It was something I hadn't ever seen before. We also got to see a pretty cool moon set.

That night I woke up again to take a few night shots. It was a little cloudy, so not as good as the night before, but still fun to try some long exposure stuff with the river.

The area we camped was just above a desert bighorn habitat area so I was keeping my fingers crossed for a sighting. I've seen plenty of sheep, both Dall and Rocky Mountain,  just not desert bighorn. We shoved off and we were all keeping an eye out. Sure enough, a ewe and a lamb made an appearance for us near the river that morning.

Slowly, the canyon walls got lower and lower as we floating towards the takeout at Mexican Hat. 

Once we were out of the canyon, the wind picked up a bit so I took my turn rowing to make sure we didn't float back up river.

I was kind of curious how the area got the name of Mexican Hat, but when I saw the feature, I got it.

Trip Notes: It was too cold for swimming and the water had so much dirt in it that my hands were constantly chapped, but it was a great first trip. We had a good combination of hiking and floating, and there is so much to see. Geology, views, fossils, history and prehistory, etc. I'll have a couple more chances to flat the same stretch later this year in June and July so it will be fun to see the difference the time of year makes. Over all great trip!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) float trip photography San Juan River Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/3/san-juan-river Sat, 23 Mar 2013 14:54:00 GMT
Canyonlands: Druid Arch https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/3/druid-arch I had recently moved to Monticello, UT, a month an a half ago and I was itching to do something outside. It was early March and the weather was warming so we planned to head to the Needles District of Canyonlands. We did a quick stop at Newspaper Rock on the way to the ranger station, picked up our permit, and headed to the Elephant Hill parking area. Our plan was to hike out to our site and set up tents, then hike to Druid Arch and back for the night. Then hike the Joint-Chesler loop back to the trailhead versus backtracking.

IMG_1015IMG_1015 IMG_1030IMG_1030 IMG_1043IMG_1043 IMG_1059-PanoIMG_1059-Pano IMG_1074IMG_1074 IMG_1112IMG_1112

We made it to camp and the views were great. We set up camp, ate some snacks, and then made our way south to Druid Arch.

IMG_1150IMG_1150 IMG_1156IMG_1156 IMG_1160IMG_1160

"Trails" in the Needles are usually in a wash or on slickrock. The sand an be slow going, so it's actually nice when it's a little wet. But if you like to scramble, the hiking here is super fun.

IMG_1181IMG_1181 IMG_1194IMG_1194 IMG_1196IMG_1196 IMG_1106IMG_1106 IMG_1229IMG_1229 IMG_1205IMG_1205 IMG_1206IMG_1206 IMG_1209IMG_1209 IMG_1214IMG_1214

After a while of hiking up the drainage, we climbed up into the bowl with Druid Arch. I had only seen photos of the arch, and man, it's HUGE! It's like 450 feet tall. 

IMG_1238IMG_1238 IMG_1241IMG_1241 Druid ArchDruid Arch

The following morning I woke up with the sun and watched the sunrise before we started our hike to hook up with the Joint Trail.

  IMG_1369-PanoIMG_1369-Pano IMG_1380IMG_1380 IMG_1383IMG_1383 IMG_1385IMG_1385 IMG_1388IMG_1388 Joint Trail tunnelsJoint Trail tunnels IMG_1502IMG_1502

Eventually we hooked up with the Chesler Park Trail where we were able to overlook the terrain we hiked through the previous day. Amazing geology! We took a break at the overlooks to grab snacks and watch the clouds float by. Amazing place and I was excited that this was going to be my backyard for the next year or so!

IMG_1542-PanoIMG_1542-Pano IMG_1553IMG_1553 IMG_1554IMG_1554 Chester Park Overlook panoramaChester Park Overlook panorama

Trip notes: spring hiking here seems to be nice weather and reliable water. We hiked just shy of 13 miles in two days which was a nice easy trip to knock the dust off the hiking boots for the year. I'm not kidding, this place has so much terrain with all the cracks and joints. There is so much opportunity to hike off trail, if you know how to avoid biological soil crusts. Looking forward to more trips in the future!

Screen Shot 2024-01-07 at 5.08.32 PMScreen Shot 2024-01-07 at 5.08.32 PM Screen Shot 2024-01-07 at 5.08.43 PMScreen Shot 2024-01-07 at 5.08.43 PM

 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Canyonlands National Park Utah https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2013/3/druid-arch Sun, 10 Mar 2013 00:20:00 GMT
Denali: Top 100 from 2012 https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/12/denali-top-2012 Another great summer in my favorite place. Here are photo highlights from the past year in Alaska. Enjoy!

Denali, Alaska Range, and Thoroughfare Form the AirDenali, Alaska Range, and Thoroughfare Form the Air Flying over Wonder LakeFlying over Wonder Lake Musher's View on Wonder LakeMusher's View on Wonder Lake Team on Wonder LakeTeam on Wonder Lake Wonder Lake Winter TripWonder Lake Winter Trip Mushing on Wonder LakeMushing on Wonder Lake Wonder Lake WinterWonder Lake Winter McKinley River Bar MusherMcKinley River Bar Musher Winter Sunset at Wonder LakeWinter Sunset at Wonder Lake Mushers Monument AuroraMushers Monument Aurora Aurora at Wonder Lake (3)Aurora at Wonder Lake (3) PorcupinePorcupine Black Backed WoodpeckerBlack Backed Woodpecker Willow BudWillow Bud Sheep on Mount MargaretSheep on Mount Margaret Mount Margaret SummitMount Margaret Summit Stony Overlook - May 13, 2012Stony Overlook - May 13, 2012 Sheep Ridge HikersSheep Ridge Hikers Golden EagleGolden Eagle Fresh Snow on the Kettle PondsFresh Snow on the Kettle Ponds Dall Sheep HeadshotDall Sheep Headshot Dall Sheep RidgeDall Sheep Ridge Dall Sheep on a CliffDall Sheep on a Cliff Polychrome Overlook May 18, 2012Polychrome Overlook May 18, 2012 Denali and Brooks from Mt. GalenDenali and Brooks from Mt. Galen Hiker in DenaliHiker in Denali Hikers on GalenHikers on Galen Trumpeter Swan FamilyTrumpeter Swan Family Ghost Fox (2)Ghost Fox (2) Denali Sunset Through the CloudsDenali Sunset Through the Clouds Blue ButterflyBlue Butterfly IMG_8619IMG_8619 IMG_8620IMG_8620 IMG_9224IMG_9224 IMG_9243IMG_9243 IMG_9282IMG_9282 IMG_9359-PanoIMG_9359-Pano IMG_9380-PanoIMG_9380-Pano IMG_9413IMG_9413 IMG_0114IMG_0114 IMG_0168IMG_0168 IMG_0172IMG_0172   IMG_0237IMG_0237 Sunset on the East ForkSunset on the East Fork Caribou Creek RainbowCaribou Creek Rainbow Stony Overlook June 16, 2012Stony Overlook June 16, 2012 Divide Mountain Sunset and Toklat RiverDivide Mountain Sunset and Toklat River Polychrome Overlook Sunset June,18 2012Polychrome Overlook Sunset June,18 2012 Horsetail Spore PhaseHorsetail Spore Phase Bog Rosemary - Andromeda polifoliaBog Rosemary - Andromeda polifolia Frog's PeltFrog's Pelt Bull MooseBull Moose Bull Moose BrowsingBull Moose Browsing Protective Mama GrizzlyProtective Mama Grizzly Grizzly CubGrizzly Cub Grizzly CubsGrizzly Cubs Midnight Sunset at Blueberry HillMidnight Sunset at Blueberry Hill Alpenglow from Wonder Lake Ranger StationAlpenglow from Wonder Lake Ranger Station Grizzly Teenager (2)Grizzly Teenager (2) Ptarmigan ChickPtarmigan Chick Polychrome Overlook - July 5, 2012Polychrome Overlook - July 5, 2012 Headwaters of Stony CreekHeadwaters of Stony Creek Denali and Brooks from Mile 65Denali and Brooks from Mile 65 Fire in the Sky in ToklatFire in the Sky in Toklat Fresh Snow on Tall FireweedFresh Snow on Tall Fireweed False Candytuft - Smelowskia borealisFalse Candytuft - Smelowskia borealis Dane's Dwarf Gentian - Gentianella tenellaDane's Dwarf Gentian - Gentianella tenella Mountain Forget-me-not - Eritrichium aretioidesMountain Forget-me-not - Eritrichium aretioides Eielson Visitor Center - July 20, 2012Eielson Visitor Center - July 20, 2012 Eielson Visitor Center HikersEielson Visitor Center Hikers Wolf Spider in Whitish GentianWolf Spider in Whitish Gentian Denali Portrait Mile 65Denali Portrait Mile 65 Sunset From Wasted Steps RidgeSunset From Wasted Steps Ridge Self-portrait Wasted Steps SunsetSelf-portrait Wasted Steps Sunset MerlinsMerlins Thoroughfare Mountain ViewThoroughfare Mountain View Stony Overlook July 29, 2012Stony Overlook July 29, 2012 Denali and Lenticulars over Peter's DomeDenali and Lenticulars over Peter's Dome Caribou BullCaribou Bull Caribou Bull (2)Caribou Bull (2) Wonder Lake Overlook - Summer SunsetWonder Lake Overlook - Summer Sunset   Wonder Lake at NightWonder Lake at Night Denali and Alaska Range from Mile 70Denali and Alaska Range from Mile 70 Denali from Eielson BluffsDenali from Eielson Bluffs Eielson Visitor Center August 22, 2012Eielson Visitor Center August 22, 2012 Savage Rock in FallSavage Rock in Fall CrowberryCrowberry Low Bush CranberriesLow Bush Cranberries Alpine BearberryAlpine Bearberry
Fresh Snow on Wyoming HillsFresh Snow on Wyoming Hills Divide Mountain PortraitDivide Mountain Portrait Road to ToklatRoad to Toklat Kayaking on Wonder LakeKayaking on Wonder Lake Wonder Lake Overlook - Fall SunsetWonder Lake Overlook - Fall Sunset The High OneThe High One Wonder Lake Overlook - Fall ReflectionsWonder Lake Overlook - Fall Reflections Sunset from Mile 70 PitSunset from Mile 70 Pit Collared PikaCollared Pika Self-portrait Divide Mountain PanoramaSelf-portrait Divide Mountain Panorama Self-portrait on Divide MountainSelf-portrait on Divide Mountain

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska Denali National Park and Preserve photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/12/denali-top-2012 Sun, 02 Dec 2012 03:03:00 GMT
Denali: The Hunt for Wildflowers https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/11/denali-wildflowers In 2011, I spent a lot of time hiking and photographing wildflowers. In total I saw 115 different species. This summer I wanted to try and beat my record, so I set a goal of 120 species. At the end of the summer I identified and photographed 185 different species, including one that was outside of its document area of occurrence. These are some of my favorites, enjoy!

Bell Heather - Cassiope tetragonaBell Heather - Cassiope tetragona Rock Jasmine - Androsace chamaejasmeRock Jasmine - Androsace chamaejasme Frigid Coltsfoot - Petasites frigidusFrigid Coltsfoot - Petasites frigidus Labrador Tea - Ledum groenlandicumLabrador Tea - Ledum groenlandicum Brook Saxifrage - Saxifraga nelsonianaBrook Saxifrage - Saxifraga nelsoniana Lapland Diapensia - Diapensia lapponicaLapland Diapensia - Diapensia lapponica False Asphodel - Tofieldia coccineaFalse Asphodel - Tofieldia coccinea Arctic Catchfly - Silene involucrataArctic Catchfly - Silene involucrata Yellow Spotted Saxifrage - Saxifraga bronchialisYellow Spotted Saxifrage - Saxifraga bronchialis Alpine Meadow Bistort -Polygonum viviparumAlpine Meadow Bistort -Polygonum viviparum Alp Lily - Lloydia serotinaAlp Lily - Lloydia serotina Reflexed Saxifrage - Saxifraga reflexaReflexed Saxifrage - Saxifraga reflexa Capitae Valerian - Valeriana capitataCapitae Valerian - Valeriana capitata Star Flower - Trientalis europea ssp. arcticaStar Flower - Trientalis europea ssp. arctica Alaska Spiraea - Spiraea steveniiAlaska Spiraea - Spiraea stevenii Sitka Burnet - Sanguisorba stipulataSitka Burnet - Sanguisorba stipulata Alaska Jasmine - Androsace alaskanaAlaska Jasmine - Androsace alaskana Entire-leaf Aven - Dryas integrifoliaEntire-leaf Aven - Dryas integrifolia Whitish gentian - Gentiana algidaWhitish gentian - Gentiana algida Red Bearberry - Arctostaphylos rubraRed Bearberry - Arctostaphylos rubra Cnidium Cnidifolium - Cnidium cnidifoliumCnidium Cnidifolium - Cnidium cnidifolium Bear Saxifrage - Boykinia richardsoniiBear Saxifrage - Boykinia richardsonii Canadian Dogwood - Cornus canadensisCanadian Dogwood - Cornus canadensis Small Grass of Parnassus - Parnassia kotzebueiSmall Grass of Parnassus - Parnassia kotzebuei Shy Maiden - Moneses unifloraShy Maiden - Moneses uniflora Alaska Starwort - Stellaria spAlaska Starwort - Stellaria sp Red-stemmed Saxifrage - Saxifraga lyalliiRed-stemmed Saxifrage - Saxifraga lyallii Bulblet Saxifrage - Saxifraga cernuaBulblet Saxifrage - Saxifraga cernua Northern Bedstraw - Galium borealeNorthern Bedstraw - Galium boreale Monkshood (albino) - Aconitum delphinifolium ssp. delphinifoliumMonkshood (albino) - Aconitum delphinifolium ssp. delphinifolium Twin Flower - Linnaea borealisTwin Flower - Linnaea borealis Wooly Lousewort - Pedicularis lanataWooly Lousewort - Pedicularis lanata Alpine Azalea - Loiseleuria procumbensAlpine Azalea - Loiseleuria procumbens Pink Plumes - Polygonum bistortaPink Plumes - Polygonum bistorta Bog Rosemary - Andromeda polifoliaBog Rosemary - Andromeda polifolia Pale Corydalis - Corydalis sempervirensPale Corydalis - Corydalis sempervirens Pink Pyrola - Pyrola asarifoliaPink Pyrola - Pyrola asarifolia Arctic Lousewort - Pedicularis langsdorfiiArctic Lousewort - Pedicularis langsdorfii Low-bush Cranberry - Vaccinium vitis-idaeaLow-bush Cranberry - Vaccinium vitis-idaea Small-flowered pyrola - Pyrola minorSmall-flowered pyrola - Pyrola minor Tall Fireweed - Chamerion angustifoliumTall Fireweed - Chamerion angustifolium Scammann's Spring Beauty - Claytonia scammanianaScammann's Spring Beauty - Claytonia scammaniana Elegant Paintbrush - Castilleja elegansElegant Paintbrush - Castilleja elegans Fern leaf Lousewort - Pedicularis interiorFern leaf Lousewort - Pedicularis interior Rosewort - Rhodiola integrifoliaRosewort - Rhodiola integrifolia Marsh Cinquefoil - Potentilla palustrisMarsh Cinquefoil - Potentilla palustris Red Burnet - Sanguisorba officinalisRed Burnet - Sanguisorba officinalis Alaska Saxifrage - Saxifraga razshivinii (davurica)Alaska Saxifrage - Saxifraga razshivinii (davurica) Pink Dandelion - Taraxacum carneocoloratumPink Dandelion - Taraxacum carneocoloratum Twice Hairy Butterweed - Senecio fuscatusTwice Hairy Butterweed - Senecio fuscatus Creeping Buttercup - Ranunculus hyperboreusCreeping Buttercup - Ranunculus hyperboreus Two-flowered Cinquefoil - Potentilla bifloraTwo-flowered Cinquefoil - Potentilla biflora Lessings Arnica - Arnica lessingiiLessings Arnica - Arnica lessingii Northern Goldenrod - Solidago multiradiataNorthern Goldenrod - Solidago multiradiata Dwarf Arctic Butterweed - Senecio resedifoliusDwarf Arctic Butterweed - Senecio resedifolius Thyme-leaf Saxifrage - Saxifraga serpyllifoliaThyme-leaf Saxifrage - Saxifraga serpyllifolia Wright's Saxifrage - Chrysosplenium wrightiiWright's Saxifrage - Chrysosplenium wrightii
Alpine Hawk's Beard - Crepis nanaAlpine Hawk's Beard - Crepis nana Alaska Draba - Draba stenolobaAlaska Draba - Draba stenoloba Yellow Anemone - Anemone richardsoniiYellow Anemone - Anemone richardsonii
Oeder's Lousewort - Pedicularis oederiOeder's Lousewort - Pedicularis oederi Marsh Marigold - Caltha palustris ssp. arcticaMarsh Marigold - Caltha palustris ssp. arctica Capitae Lousewort - Pedicularis capitataCapitae Lousewort - Pedicularis capitata Small Yellow Violet - Viola bifloraSmall Yellow Violet - Viola biflora Cushion Saxifrage - Saxifraga eschscholtziiCushion Saxifrage - Saxifraga eschscholtzii Alpine Draba - Draba alpinaAlpine Draba - Draba alpina Alaska Poppy - Papaver mcconnelliiAlaska Poppy - Papaver mcconnellii Spider Plant - Saxifraga flagellarisSpider Plant - Saxifraga flagellaris Golden Graba - Draba aureaGolden Graba - Draba aurea Labrador Lousewort - Pedicularis labradoricaLabrador Lousewort - Pedicularis labradorica Bog Saxifrage - Saxifraga hirculusBog Saxifrage - Saxifraga hirculus Frigid Arnica - Arnica frigidaFrigid Arnica - Arnica frigida Black-tipped Groundsel - Senecio lugensBlack-tipped Groundsel - Senecio lugens Anadyr Draba - Draba stenopetalaAnadyr Draba - Draba stenopetala Large-leaf Avens - Geum macrophyllum ssp. perincisumLarge-leaf Avens - Geum macrophyllum ssp. perincisum Soapberry - Shepherdia canadensisSoapberry - Shepherdia canadensis Maydell's Oxytrope - Oxytropis maydellianaMaydell's Oxytrope - Oxytropis maydelliana Alpine Bearberry - Arctostaphylos alpinaAlpine Bearberry - Arctostaphylos alpina Yellow Paintbrush - Castilleja caudataYellow Paintbrush - Castilleja caudata One-leaf Rein Orchid (zoom) - Platanthera obtusataOne-leaf Rein Orchid (zoom) - Platanthera obtusata Elegant Stitchwort - Minuartia elegansElegant Stitchwort - Minuartia elegans Death Camas - Zygadenus elegansDeath Camas - Zygadenus elegans Sidebells Pyrola - Orthilia secundaSidebells Pyrola - Orthilia secunda Frog Orchid - Coeloglossum viride ssp. bracteatumFrog Orchid - Coeloglossum viride ssp. bracteatum Stiff Stem Saxifrage - Saxifraga hieracifoliaStiff Stem Saxifrage - Saxifraga hieracifolia Alpine Forget-me-not - Myosotis alpestrisAlpine Forget-me-not - Myosotis alpestris Glacous Gentian - Gentiana glaucaGlacous Gentian - Gentiana glauca Mountain Harebell - Campanula lasiocarpaMountain Harebell - Campanula lasiocarpa Blue Bells - Mertensia paniculataBlue Bells - Mertensia paniculata Mountain Forget-me-not - Eritrichium aretioidesMountain Forget-me-not - Eritrichium aretioides Moss Gentian - Gentiana prostrataMoss Gentian - Gentiana prostrata Wild Geranium - Geranium erianthumWild Geranium - Geranium erianthum Kitten Tails - Synthyris borealisKitten Tails - Synthyris borealis Dane's Dwarf Gentian - Gentianella tenellaDane's Dwarf Gentian - Gentianella tenella Purple Oxytrope - Oxytropis nigrescensPurple Oxytrope - Oxytropis nigrescens Alpine Veronica - Veronica wormskjoldiiAlpine Veronica - Veronica wormskjoldii Tall Jacob's Ladder - Polemonium acutiflorumTall Jacob's Ladder - Polemonium acutiflorum Pallas Wallflower - Erysimum pallasiiPallas Wallflower - Erysimum pallasii Parry's Wallflower - Parrya nudicaulis ssp. interiorParry's Wallflower - Parrya nudicaulis ssp. interior Fleabane Daisy - Erigeron acrisFleabane Daisy - Erigeron acris Alaska Violet - Viola langsdorfiiAlaska Violet - Viola langsdorfii Purple Cress - Cardamine purpureaPurple Cress - Cardamine purpurea Four-parted Gentian - Gentianella propinquaFour-parted Gentian - Gentianella propinqua Shortray Fleabane - Erigeron lonchophyllusShortray Fleabane - Erigeron lonchophyllus Large-flowered Fleabane - Erigeron grandifloraLarge-flowered Fleabane - Erigeron grandiflora Northern Jacob's Ladder - Polemonium boreale ssp. villosissimumNorthern Jacob's Ladder - Polemonium boreale ssp. villosissimum Sticky Oxytrope - Oxytropis viscidaSticky Oxytrope - Oxytropis viscida Alpine Milk Vetch - Astragalus alpinusAlpine Milk Vetch - Astragalus alpinus Cuckoo Flower - Cardamine pratensisCuckoo Flower - Cardamine pratensis Alaska Spring Beauty - Claytonia sarmentosaAlaska Spring Beauty - Claytonia sarmentosa Bladder Campion - Silene uralensis ssp. uralensisBladder Campion - Silene uralensis ssp. uralensis False Candytuft - Smelowskia borealisFalse Candytuft - Smelowskia borealis Sticky Saw-wort - Saussurea viscidaSticky Saw-wort - Saussurea viscida Larkspur - Delphinium glaucumLarkspur - Delphinium glaucum Common Butterwort - Pinguicula vulgarisCommon Butterwort - Pinguicula vulgaris Weasel Snout - Lagotis glauca ssp. minorWeasel Snout - Lagotis glauca ssp. minor Few-Flowered Corydalis - Corydalis paucifloraFew-Flowered Corydalis - Corydalis pauciflora Pasque - Pulsatilla patensPasque - Pulsatilla patens Arctic Primrose - Primula eximiaArctic Primrose - Primula eximia Gorman's Douglasia - Douglasia gormaniiGorman's Douglasia - Douglasia gormanii Purple Mountain Saxifrage - Saxifraga oppositifoliaPurple Mountain Saxifrage - Saxifraga oppositifolia Lapland Rosebay - Rhododendron lapponicumLapland Rosebay - Rhododendron lapponicum Nagoonberry - Rubus arcticusNagoonberry - Rubus arcticus
Frigid Shooting Star - Dodecatheon frigidumFrigid Shooting Star - Dodecatheon frigidum Calypso Orchid - Calypso bulbosaCalypso Orchid - Calypso bulbosa Whorled leaf Lousewort - Pedicularis verticillataWhorled leaf Lousewort - Pedicularis verticillata Dwarf Fireweed - Chamerion latifoliumDwarf Fireweed - Chamerion latifolium

After the summer, I thought it would be fun to design an ID poster so here it is!

Wildflowers of DenaliWildflowers of Denali

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska Denali National Park and Preserve photography wildflowers https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/11/denali-wildflowers Sun, 04 Nov 2012 02:03:00 GMT
Denali: Unit 9 Toklat River https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/6/toklat-river We started from the Toklat River Contact Station and as soon as we jumped off the road we saw tons of signs of wildlife including wolves, lynx, and bears. We didn't know exactly where we going to camp, but we planned to hike as far as we could in a day. The middle day the planned to explore further up the headwaters around the glacier, and then hike out on day 3.

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We could see the end of the valley but no matter how long we hiked it didn't seem to get any closer. So we just kept hiking...

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A few hours later we found a nice spot to pitch our tents. We all laid down for a bit to rest, then made dinner and explored around camp. We found a cool little drainage and decided to follow it up.

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Eventually we popped out above the valley floor and had a great view to the north where we had started. Some of us found quicker ways down than others.

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We all went to bed around 10, but an hour later we hear people from the other tents telling us to pop our head out to check out the light. So I got back up and went out for photos. As I was exploring around I found a call sheep skull laying in the rocks. Around midnight the color really started to pop and everyone crawled out of their tents to take photos.

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The following morning our group split up, half headed back to the road while we would stay another night and head further south into the mountains. Eventually we hooked up with the terminus of the unnamed glacier. We followed a lateral moraine up until we were on a medial moraine, now standing on the glacier.

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We decided that was probably far enough for the day and sat down for lunch. Before heading back to camp I set up the tripod to take a group photo and captured my funniest selfie on accident. Right as the timer went off, a huge gust of wind blew my camera over and snapped this shot of me trying to save it. The best part is Corrie and Emily with their "oh shit" faces. The camera landed on its side and only my UV filter broke. If I didn't have the filter on, it's likely that I would have just broken my lens. I'm glad I was given the advice to keep a filter on for exactly this reason.

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The hike back to camp was GORGEOUS. Beautiful jagged mountains with fresh snow are one of my top favorite things.

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Back at camp there was a band of Dall sheep on the mountain just above where we found the skull the night before. The next day the weather rolled in and started raining on us so we hiked as fast as possible back to the road without stopping at all. Unfortunately, my achilles swelled up and I'm now on the DL until my foot feels better. Hopefully not too long!

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Trip notes: we hiked just shy of 31 miles in 3 days which is pretty far considering it's all off trail. I think this is now my most favorite trip in the park. The area was awesome, but I think the biggest thing is that I was able to get so far away from the road. Hiking along river bars for hours can get sorta boring, but hard to complain when you have the mountain views to keep you company.

Disclaimer: Denali is a trail-less Wilderness. These maps are approximations of our routes. Please don't take this blog and map to the Denali Backcountry Information Center and say, "I wan't to do this exact trip." They will take good care of you like they did for us. Thanks!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Denali National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/6/toklat-river Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:05:00 GMT
Denali: Top 100 from 2011 https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/1/denali-top-2011 I hope you enjoy looking at the photos as much as I did taking them. Denali has become my favorite national park. Thanks to everyone who made it a year to remember! - Jake

Snowshoe HareSnowshoe Hare Lynx in the RoadLynx in the Road Lynx in the Road (2)Lynx in the Road (2) Willow PtarmiganWillow Ptarmigan Nap TimeNap Time Polychrome DrainagePolychrome Drainage Hiking the Toklat River BarHiking the Toklat River Bar Rams in the RoadRams in the Road Self-portrait Plains of Murie Glacial ErraticSelf-portrait Plains of Murie Glacial Erratic Purple Mountain Saxifrage on Divide MountainPurple Mountain Saxifrage on Divide Mountain Denali From Eielson Bluffs in SpringDenali From Eielson Bluffs in Spring Side View Mirror in DenaliSide View Mirror in Denali Self Portrait - Geode MountainSelf Portrait - Geode Mountain GeodeGeode Cloudy Toklat RiverbarCloudy Toklat Riverbar Toklat Riverbar ReflectionsToklat Riverbar Reflections IMG_1095IMG_1095 IMG_0387IMG_0387 Self-portrait Atop a Glacial ErraticSelf-portrait Atop a Glacial Erratic View of the Muldrow from Intermittent CreekView of the Muldrow from Intermittent Creek Wolf Spider and Egg SacWolf Spider and Egg Sac Hiking in DenaliHiking in Denali Hiking the RidgeHiking the Ridge Self-portrait Overlloking Toklate ValleySelf-portrait Overlloking Toklate Valley Evening at Stony OverlookEvening at Stony Overlook IMG_2354IMG_2354 White-crowned Sparrow Nest and EggsWhite-crowned Sparrow Nest and Eggs Lynx on the MoveLynx on the Move Lynx in the Bushes (3)Lynx in the Bushes (3) Self-portrait - View from West Polycrome PeakSelf-portrait - View from West Polycrome Peak Southwest Polychrome DrainageSouthwest Polychrome Drainage Polychrome Glaciers- July 5, 2011Polychrome Glaciers- July 5, 2011 Polychrome HikerPolychrome Hiker Denali and Arctic Ground SquirrelDenali and Arctic Ground Squirrel View from Thoroughfare MountainView from Thoroughfare Mountain Super SquirrelSuper Squirrel Southern View of DenaliSouthern View of Denali Afternoon Sun Over Denali State ParkAfternoon Sun Over Denali State Park Afternoon Sun over Denali State Park PortraitAfternoon Sun over Denali State Park Portrait Denali and Thoroughfare Riverbar in Bloom PortraitDenali and Thoroughfare Riverbar in Bloom Portrait Traffic in DenaliTraffic in Denali Denali and Thoroughfare Riverbar in BloomDenali and Thoroughfare Riverbar in Bloom Stony Overlook July 20, 2011Stony Overlook July 20, 2011 Denali in the Afternoon Mile 70Denali in the Afternoon Mile 70 Midnight at the CausewayMidnight at the Causeway Bull Moose in the FlatsBull Moose in the Flats Wonder Lake Reflections from Blueberry HillWonder Lake Reflections from Blueberry Hill Evening Light on Highway PassEvening Light on Highway Pass IMG_9349-PanoIMG_9349-Pano Hand-picked Fall ColorHand-picked Fall Color The Dark has ReturnedThe Dark has Returned Kettle PondKettle Pond Denali, Stony Hill, and Road in FallDenali, Stony Hill, and Road in Fall Denali and Stony HillDenali and Stony Hill Sunrise On Denali From Wonder LakeSunrise On Denali From Wonder Lake Crossing Moose CreekCrossing Moose Creek Morning light on Denali at Reflection PondMorning light on Denali at Reflection Pond Sunset at Reflection PondSunset at Reflection Pond Morning at Reclection PondMorning at Reclection Pond Picking BlueberriesPicking Blueberries What About You?What About You? I Like Blueberries!I Like Blueberries! Self-portrait Scree Ski JumpSelf-portrait Scree Ski Jump Self-portrait My First Moose AntlerSelf-portrait My First Moose Antler Grizzly Bear - FabioGrizzly Bear - Fabio My First AuroraMy First Aurora My First Aurora (2)My First Aurora (2) Eielson Vistor Center MapEielson Vistor Center Map Eielson Visitor Center ViewEielson Visitor Center View On the WagonOn the Wagon Ptarmigan SiblingsPtarmigan Siblings
Eielson Antler PanoramaEielson Antler Panorama Stony Overlook in the FallStony Overlook in the Fall Unit 10 Monochromatic PanoramicUnit 10 Monochromatic Panoramic Unit 10 MonochromaticUnit 10 Monochromatic Fresh SnowstormFresh Snowstorm Near Hines CreekNear Hines Creek Moonrise over Musher's MonumentMoonrise over Musher's Monument Pyramid MountainPyramid Mountain Sundog at -20ºFSundog at -20ºF Riley Creek Winter SceneRiley Creek Winter Scene Braided AuroraBraided Aurora C-camp AuroraC-camp Aurora North to AlaskaNorth to Alaska Aurora WhiplashAurora Whiplash Aurora from Rock Creek BridgeAurora from Rock Creek Bridge Snowshoe Hare Tracks IsometricSnowshoe Hare Tracks Isometric C-Camp in the WinterC-Camp in the Winter Evening Ski in DenaliEvening Ski in Denali Self-Portrait at -35ºFSelf-Portrait at -35ºF Winter Delight - Denali SunriseWinter Delight - Denali Sunrise Morning at Triple Lakes TrailMorning at Triple Lakes Trail Skiing the Savage RiverSkiing the Savage River Trees AflameTrees Aflame IMG_5792IMG_5792 Aurora StarburstAurora Starburst Aurora Starburst (2)Aurora Starburst (2) Aurora StreaksAurora Streaks Aurora 2:18:12Aurora 2:18:12

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska Denali National Park and Preserve photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/1/denali-top-2011 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 03:03:00 GMT
Haleakalā: Pu'u'uma'uma to Halemau'u https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/1/haleakala Hey everyone! 

As part of our five weeks in Hawai'i, we spent a week on Maui. When first booking our flights and cars, Maui was by far the most expensive. Our rental car alone for the week was supposed to be like $1400. So I took to Craigslist and found a local who was renting their car for $300 instead. It wasn't fancy, but the old Chevy Blazer did the job. That is, once you filled the radiator with water, used a stick to prop open the read gate, and didn't drive over 55 m.p.h. or else it would start shaking violently.

Maui is also home to a park that we really wanted to visit, Haleakalā National Park. Two big things we wanted to do was to watch a sunrise from the summit and camp in the crater. The campsite we wanted, Palikū, was reserved for the time were were there, so we settled for the closer spot at Hōlua for a night.

We drove up to the front country campground at Homer Grove and set up for the evening. Once we were all set up, we drove up to the summit to get a view from where we would be hiking the following day. It basically looked like Mars.

Haleakalā Crater Sunrise PanoramaHaleakalā Crater Sunrise Panorama

The following morning, we drove back up to the summit in the dark to catch the sunrise. There was a large group of people who had gathered already, most people wearing cotton sweatshirts and socks on their hands. I think we were the only people there who had proper layers for the 10K ft chilly sunrise. It was very cool looking down on a sunrise and watch the clouds move over the island.

Haleakala Crater SunsetHaleakala Crater Sunset

Back at camp we made breakfast and packed for our overnight trip. During breakfast, two endemic Hawaiian endemic birds, the I'iwi and the 'Alauahio stopped by. Very cool that we were able to see these birds that are only in Hawaii.

Mau'i I'iwiMau'i I'iwi Maui ʻalauahioMaui ʻalauahio

Back at the summit we started our hike down the Sliding Sands Trail. It was a mix of rock and sand, which meant that we were going to be hiking slowly. Probably a good thing since we were also at elevation. From a big view, the crater looks dead, and void of life. On a closer look, you notice that there are many plants that are highly adapted to the landscape, like the silversword. It's likely the one you'll notice too because of it's color and the fact there are signs everywhere telling you about it since it's a threatened plant.

Haleakalā Crater PanoramaHaleakalā Crater Panorama SilverswordSilversword

We continued down the trail, but no matter how far we walked, the features didn't seem to get any closer. The crater is deceptively large and hiking in it, exposed to the sun at elevation, is a good way to learn that first hand.

Eventually we made it to some of the features within in the crater, which meant that we were near the junction to our campsite.

We wandered our way through the cones, taking in the views.

Once we were at the junction to Hõlua, we found a place in the shade to take a snack break and enjoy the views.

Our camp spot at Hõlua was sheltered enough if the wind picked up, but still had views of the sky, which was spectacular. 

Haleakalā Crater MoonriseHaleakalā Crater Moonrise

The next morning the wind had picked up, so once the frost on our tent melted, we packed up and hiked back to the car. We even had a nice ground-level rainbow that appeared from a cloud that wasn't raining. Not sure how that works, but it was cool to see.

Haleakalā Crater RainbowHaleakalā Crater Rainbow

Back at the car we grabbed a photo at the sign and headed back into town for a night before driving the Road to Hana and the Kīpahulu district of the park.

One of the first popular spots on that side of the Island is 'Ohe'O Gulch, or the Seven Sacred Pools. We hiked around the pools checking out the different waterfalls from the base and the brink of each.

Seven Sacred PoolsSeven Sacred Pools Seven Sacred Pools 2Seven Sacred Pools 2 Makahiku Falls, Maui 200 ftMakahiku Falls, Maui 200 ft

Next on the list was to hike out to Waimoku, a 400-ft waterfall. Along the way, we got to climb in some trees and hike through a forest of bamboo.

Tree LoungingTree Lounging Kipahulu BoardwalkKipahulu Boardwalk Bamboo ForestBamboo Forest

At the falls, the sun hit the water just right that we got to see a nice little rainbow. On the way back through the bamboo forest, the light started poking through which created some nice sunbeams.

Waimoku FallsWaimoku Falls Waimoku Falls PortraitWaimoku Falls Portrait Kipahulu Boardwalk sun raysKipahulu Boardwalk sun rays

Back at the car, while snacking a drinking, we saw one of the islands more elusive nonnative critters, the mongoose. First time seeing one, so even though it isn't supposed to be on the island, still pretty cool to see it.

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Bonus pic: our trusty steed.

Trusty SteedTrusty Steed

Backpacking trip notes: Overall it was a fun trip, but there are a couple things that would have made it better. If we were able to secure a night at one or both of the cabins, that would have been ideal. Camping at the back of the crater means that you have to hike through more of the features, too. I guess that just means there is something for us to do the next time we visit!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Haleakala National Park Hawai'i photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2012/1/haleakala Mon, 02 Jan 2012 14:01:00 GMT
Nā Pali Coast: Kalalau Trail https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/12/Kalalau Hey everyone!

We just got back from a few nights along the Kalalau Trail in Nā Pali Coast State Park. Having never been out to the beach, and it being the rainy season, we decided to break up the hike by staying a night at Hanakoa before and after Kalalau Beach. We set off late morning and made our way to Hanakapi'ai Beach. It was the first of many beautiful viewpoints we would see along the trail.

We crossed the steam, grabbed lunch at the beach, and then started our climb further along the trail. Coming from AK, we were certainly out of our element. We had heavy boots and gear designed for backpacking in Alaska. There were many waterfalls along the trail, which meant it was a bog at times. Lots of slow going with the muddy trail.

The humidity was also pretty brutal. So when we had a spot along the trail with a breeze, we would take the opportunity to drop our packs and cool off. It's crazy how fast the weather changes with the cloud cover.

Eventually we made it to Hanakoa Campground and we were the only ones there. It was in terrible shape with lots of garbage strewn all over the place. The one nice thing about the campground is that there was a short hike up to the falls which was gorgeous. We took the opportunity to swim at the base of the 1,000 ft waterfall.

The following morning we set off early so we could have as much time as possible at Kalalau. The closer we got, the more the views opened up. 

Red Hill OverlookRed Hill Overlook Kalalau Beach From Red HillKalalau Beach From Red Hill

We arrived in the early afternoon and set up camp. It was still pretty hot out, so we explored around in the forest looking for wildflowers and birds.

FrancolinFrancolin

Once things cooled off a bit, we explored around the beach and found a big cave on the east end of the beach.

After grabbing a "shower" in the beach waterfall, we grabbed naps before heading back out to the beach for sunset. We weren't sure if it was going to pop off or not, but it didn't disappoint. It was probably one of the most rewarding sunsets I've ever seen.

Kalalau BeachKalalau Beach
Kalalau Beach SunsetKalalau Beach Sunset

As much as we wanted to stay longer, we only had a permit for the one night. We probably could have poached, because there was an entire illegal commune of people living out there. I chatted with one of the folks and they were nice enough. So we made our way back to Hanakoa and the trailhead the following day. The trail dried up a little bit without any big rains which was nice. 

Trip Notes: We probably hiked around 22 miles with 8,600' of elevation gain. The trail goes up and down, a LOT. It doesn't seem like the elevation should be that much, but it's sneaky. It's a tough trail and breaking it up was a good idea for us. Many people can go light and fast, but with the mud that was also very unlikely. If we were to do this trip again, I would just add another night at Kalalau to have a full layover day. Overall awesome time!

 

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Hawai'i Na Pali Coast State Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/12/Kalalau Sat, 17 Dec 2011 21:43:00 GMT
Denali: Unit 29 Tattler Creek https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/8/tattler-creek I had a friend visit from Florida and we decided to see if we could grab an overnight permit in the backcountry. We didn't have any ideas of where to go and someone suggested we hike out to the "dance floor" to check out the fossilized footprints. I'd never seen dinosaur tracks before so we had a plan. We got dropped off on a beautiful sunny afternoon and made our way up Tattler Creek.

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We were told where to look and sure enough we were able to find them. Pretty cool to see dinosaur footprints in the wild.

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We kept climbing and made our way to the pass on the northeast side of Sable Mountain. The view looking down into the Big Creek drainage was pretty awesome. 

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The following morning we woke up to rain and snow but explored the area a little bit. The geology in Big Creek was really cool and the color of the rock really popped with the colorful tundra. Once we made it back to our camp we packed up and made the hike back to the road over the pass. We were in our rain gear all day, but it was still a great day in the Wilderness.

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Trip notes: You had to drop pretty far down off the ridge before we were able to find some water to filter. The back side of Sable was very pretty and there's a ton to explore with more time. I'd love to get back there again with a couple more days on the itinerary.

Disclaimer: Denali is a trail-less Wilderness. These maps are approximations of our routes. Please don't take this blog and map to the Denali Backcountry Information Center and say, "I wan't to do this exact trip." They will take good care of you like they did for us. Thanks!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Denali National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/8/tattler-creek Sat, 13 Aug 2011 06:05:00 GMT
Kenai Fjords National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/7/kenai-fjords Hey everyone,

My mom flew in for a visit and while she was here, we drove down to Seward to go fishing and explore Kenai Fjords National Park. The drive down was fairly uneventful, but we did have some nice light from the Denali State Park lookout and full rainbow on the side of the road.

Denali State ParkDenali State Park Rainbow on Parks HighwayRainbow on Parks Highway

The first day exploring the park, we took a boat from Seward out to Aialik Glacier. As we made our way into the bay, there were lots of little islands dotting the coastlines that were full of vegetation.

As we got closer, we could see all kinds of birds resting on cliffs, including puffins! I've been wanting to see these birds in the wild for some time, and they didn't disappoint.

Horned PuffinHorned Puffin Tufted PuffinTufted Puffin Horned Puffin Taking OffHorned Puffin Taking Off

We also saw a sea otter, whales in the distance, and a pod of orcas. 

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As we made our way up the bay, the glacier came into view in the distance. It looked huge from a distance, but it was hard to comprehend the size of it until we got closer. We stopped about a quarter mile away from the terminus of the glacier, where we hung out for an hour watching gigantic sections calve off into the ocean. It was mesmerizing. 

Aialik GlacierAialik Glacier

The entire foot of the glacier measured about a half mile across and a few hundred feet thick. I could have stayed there all day just taking photos of the ice. The sounds it made were also amazing.

Aialik Glacier PanoramaAialik Glacier Panorama Aialik Glacier details (2)Aialik Glacier details (2) Aialik Glacier details (3)Aialik Glacier details (3) Gull flying along Aialik GlacierGull flying along Aialik Glacier Aialik Glacier, EnchanceAialik Glacier, Enchance Aialik Glacier, Enhance, EnhanceAialik Glacier, Enhance, Enhance Aialik Glacier calvingAialik Glacier calving

Eventually we had to start heading back. On the way out we swung by some rocks that were full of Stellar sea lions. Also a new species for me. 

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It was an awesome day on the boat and I would love the opportunity to do more exploring along the coast.

Stellars Sea Lions (3)Stellars Sea Lions (3)

The next day we headed inland to the park visitor center and to Exit Glacier. The glacier descends from the Harding Icefield and there is a small trail that takes you along the lateral moraine for better views. You can hike all the way to the icefield lookout, but we didn't have enough time to go the entire way up.

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In addition to the amazing views of the glacier, we also saw some new species of wildflowers. 

Exit Glacier waterfallExit Glacier waterfall Fringe CupFringe Cup
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It was too short of a trip, but now we know we need to come back and stay longer. It seems like a kayaking backcountry trip would be worthwhile. Add it to the list!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska Kenai Fjords National Park photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/7/kenai-fjords Mon, 18 Jul 2011 20:46:00 GMT
Denali: Unit 13 Eielson Loop https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/6/eielson-loop Corrie and I started dating officially, and this trip was technically our first date. She had done the route a few times, but everything is new to me. We left the Eielson Visitor Center later morning and headed down to the Thorofare River bar. Once we crossed what seemed like a hundred braided stream channels, we made it along the edge of the Muldrow Glacier and began our climb up Glacier Creek and Intermittent Creek.

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At the pass we had a great view of the drainage and the glacier below. The toe of the Muldrow is covered in debris and even tundra in place. This glacier is also a surging glacier, and when it surges it can move up to dozen of feet in a single day. You can actually see and hear it moving in real time.

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That night the weather came in and it snowed on us. We had a low cloud ceiling so the views were gone, but it was still fun to hike through the colorful hills.

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From the pass on the backside of Mt. Eielson, we hooked up with Contact Creek and made out way to Sunset Valley, where we saw a grizzly laying down in the distance. We found a way around without having to get close and the bear didn't even seem to notice us. Win-win!

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Trip notes: this was a quick and dirty trip. We hiked around 14 miles with 2700' of elevation gain in two days. With the weather, bus shuttles, and our work schedules we didn't have a ton of time to explore. Sunset Glacier looks like it would be really cool to explore, also the toe of the Muldrow Glacier.

Disclaimer: Denali is a trail-less Wilderness. These maps are approximations of our routes. Please don't take this blog and map to the Denali Backcountry Information Center and say, "I wan't to do this exact trip." They will take good care of you like they did for us. Thanks!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Denali National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/6/eielson-loop Sat, 18 Jun 2011 06:05:00 GMT
Denali: Unit 33 Little Stony Creek https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/6/stony-creek Finally got to spend a couple nights Denali's Wilderness! The days are super long right now, so we can start hiking whenever. It takes a little getting used to, but pretty cool that you don't need to carry a head lamp. 

We caught an evening bus after dinner and started our hike around 8pm. We headed out along the creek north of the road.

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After a few miles the valley opened up and we found a great place to pitch our tents for the weekend. It even came with a decent view of Denali.

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The next day we woke up and explored around the area. We found a giant glacial erratic, took a tundra nap, saw some harlequins, and then climbed a small hill to get some views of the valley. Not a bad first trip!

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Trip notes: this was the first time I backcountry camped without a designated camp spot. It comes with pros and cons. Having a smaller group makes it easier to find spots, but not knowing how far you have to travel to find a spot can be a challenge if you have a long travel day. We also had great weather. If it's pouring, it's a another problem you have to solve. Anyway, I had a blast and I can't wait for the next trip!

Disclaimer: Denali is a trail-less Wilderness. These maps are approximations of our routes. Please don't take this blog and map to the Denali Backcountry Information Center and say, "I wan't to do this exact trip." They will take good care of you like they did for us. Thanks!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Alaska backpacking Denali National Park and Preserve https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/6/stony-creek Sat, 11 Jun 2011 06:05:00 GMT
Chaco Culture National Historical Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/2/chaco-culture Hey everyone,

I went to Mesa Verde National Park for the first time about four months ago. When I told a mutual friend how much I enjoyed it, she was all too eager to tell me that Chaco was even better. So when I went to Albuquerque to visit my cousin, I suggested that we head there to check it out for a weekend of camping and hiking.

After a few hours on the highway and then washboarded dirt road, we arrived to the campground and grabbed a spot. From there we headed over to the visitor center to grab a map and get the lay of the land.

For the first afternoon we stuck to the loop road and decided to hike the Pueblo Alto Loop Trail. 

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At Pueblo Alto, we saw our first arc site of the area and also a bunch of cool pot sherds. This is why my friend mentioned Chaco as being cooler than Mesa Verde. In addition to Chaco being the apparent center of the Ancestral Puebloan culture, it was also less visited and less reconstructed. That also means it's still possible to find random artifacts.

Pottery Sherds at Pueblo AltoPottery Sherds at Pueblo Alto Pottery Sherds atPottery Sherds at

On the hike back to the car we got our first view of the main arc site, Pueblo Bonito. Even though we were up high, it still looked HUGE. According to the signs, it was planned and constructed in stages between 850-1150. That world eventually covered a vast area of the present-day Southwest, including the San Juan Basin of New Mexico, and portions of Colorado, Utah, and Arizona. For over 300 years, Chacoan Culture united many diverse peoples within its sphere of influence.

Pueblo Bonito from Pueblo Alto TrailPueblo Bonito from Pueblo Alto Trail

We also got a great view of the Kin Kletso arc site.

Kin Kletso from Pueblo Alto TrailKin Kletso from Pueblo Alto Trail

Back in the Valley, we walked over to Pueblo del Arroyo. Unlike other great houses in the canyon, it was built away from cliff walls, in the open near the arroyo. Another unusual feature is the tri-wall kiva. Only ten tri-wall kivas have been found in the Southwest – three of those are at Aztec Ruins National Monument. The one found at Pueblo del Arroyo is the only one in Chaco Canyon.

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The last place we hit for the day was Casa Rinconada. There are other small dwellings in the area, but the Great Kiva is the big highlight.

Pueblo del Arroyo window (2)Pueblo del Arroyo window (2) Casa Rinconada (portrait)Casa Rinconada (portrait) Casa RinconadaCasa Rinconada

The next day we woke up and decided to hike the South Mesa Trail. There's not a ton of arc sites on the trail, but it's a great trail to give you grand views of the area and Chaco Canyon.

View from the South Mesa TrailView from the South Mesa Trail

Back in the valley it was time to explore Pueblo Bonito. The first thing I noticed was all the stone work in the walls. In addition to the bigger stones that made up the wall, there were loads of smaller stones between them. It was such cool craftsmanship. 

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On the inside, there were so many cool hallways and doors between the rooms. Again, amazing craftsmanship with sharp corners.

Pueblo Bonito DoorwayPueblo Bonito Doorway

For sunset, we drove out to one of the outliers, Kin Klizhin. It was a haul to get out there, but a great view of the surrounding area.

Kin Klizhin SunsetKin Klizhin Sunset

The next day we woke up to fresh snow on the ground. For sunrise, we hiked out to the Una Vida petroglyph panel.

Una Vida PetroglyphsUna Vida Petroglyphs

At the panel we also had great views of Fajada Butte.

Morning light on Fajada ButteMorning light on Fajada Butte

Back at the car we decided to make one last trip through the loop road with the fresh snow on the sites. Pueblo Bonito looked completely different in the snow. 

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Overall we had a great trip. I can't believe I never learned about any of this in school. I'm looking forward to exploring the Colorado plateau and sites like this in the future!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Chaco Culture National Historical Park New Mexico photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/2/chaco-culture Mon, 21 Feb 2011 00:29:00 GMT
Carlsbad Caverns National Park https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/2/carlsbad-caverns In 2011, I moved to New Mexico and started my exploration of national parks in the area. One park in particular, Carlsbad Caverns, really took me by surprise. I had been to caves before, but this place is like and underground cathedral. It's simply breathtaking. In addition to the "Big Room," there are a lot of additional caves that you can explore with a ranger or apply for a permit. I signed up for a bunch and brought my camera when I could. These are my favorites, enjoy!

The Natural Entrance

AmphitheaterAmphitheater Natural EntranceNatural Entrance The Twilight ZoneThe Twilight Zone Descending SwitchbacksDescending Switchbacks Self Portrait - Admiring the HeartSelf Portrait - Admiring the Heart Green Lake RoomGreen Lake Room

The Big Room

Chandelier PanoramaChandelier Panorama ChandelierChandelier National Geographic Pit LadderNational Geographic Pit Ladder Pool ReflectionsPool Reflections Devil's SpringDevil's Spring The DollhouseThe Dollhouse The Chinese TheaterThe Chinese Theater Self Portrait - Longfellow's BathtubSelf Portrait - Longfellow's Bathtub Self Portrait - The ZooSelf Portrait - The Zoo Looking into the Hall of GiantsLooking into the Hall of Giants Hall of GiantsHall of Giants Temple of the SunTemple of the Sun Big Room ShortcutBig Room Shortcut Breast of VenusBreast of Venus Self Portrait - Big RoomSelf Portrait - Big Room Top of the CrossTop of the Cross The Ghost RoomThe Ghost Room

The King's Palace

King's PalaceKing's Palace Green Lake Room FormationsGreen Lake Room Formations The Royal CourtThe Royal Court Papoose RoomPapoose Room Witches BroomWitches Broom Viewing Queens DrapariesViewing Queens Draparies Self Portrait - Queens ChamberSelf Portrait - Queens Chamber

Slaughter Canyon Cave

MonarchMonarch Christmas TreeChristmas Tree The Grim ReaperThe Grim Reaper

Chimney Cave

Self-portrait Chimney Cave RappelSelf-portrait Chimney Cave Rappel Shadow PuppetsShadow Puppets

Spider Cave

Near Cactus SpringsNear Cactus Springs

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) Carlsbad Caverns National Park caving New Mexico photography https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2011/2/carlsbad-caverns Sun, 06 Feb 2011 00:29:00 GMT
Glacier: Kintla Lake to Bowman Lake https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2010/9/kintla-bowman I planned a solo backcountry trip for early September, but the weather didn't want to cooperate. About the time I decided to bail, I had a friend invite me to drive to Alaska with her. After an awesome trip to Hyder, AK, I was back in the area and the weather made a change for the better. As I was contemplating my options for a backcountry trip and asking friends about options, I was invited on a trip to the North Fork. The plan was to drop a car at Bowman Lake, shuttle up to Kintla Lake, then hike back to the car via Boulder Pass.

After the travel logistics were all done we set off late morning. The hiking along the lake is long and fairly nondescript. We finally got some views of Long Knife Peak as we hiked between the two lakes.

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Just as the sun was setting, we reached the foot of Upper Kintla Lake. Even though we needed to keep hiking to make it to camp before dark, the light on Kinnerly Peak was too good to not stop for a photo.

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With less than a half mile from camp we ran into a black bear on the trail. It seemed surprised to see us. It stood up and then bolted into the trees all within a few seconds. I suppose if you're going to run into a bear on foot, that's the idea scenario. Once in camp we dropped our packs and ran out to check out the sunset over the head of the lake. We made dinner by headlamp, had some whiskey, took a dip in the lake and then hit the sack.

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Normally I'm a "morning poop" kinda guy, but I had heard that the Boulder Pass Campground "low rider" was the best toilet view in the entire park. The following day we would hike right by it, so my plan was to hang on until we got to the campground. We woke up early, ate a small breakfast and started our climb to Boulder Pass. I also learned about larch trees and their beautiful color in the fall. Now I'm a huge fan.

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Just as we rolled into the campground I dropped everything and RAN to the bathroom. I was probably a few minutes out from needed to dig a whole and ruining my entire plan. After a successful mission, I went back and grabbed my camera, tripod, and book to pose for a photo to remember the experience.

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We continued along the trail on our way to our Hole-in-the-Wall campground for the evening. The trail takes you along some jaw-dropping scenery, including Thunderbird Mountain and Bowman Valley.

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We could almost see Bowman Lake from this stretch of trail, but we had great views for the route the following day.

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The next day we planned to hike from our campground back to our car. We started early and didn't stop for much until we made it back. The sun finally came out, we swam and relaxed on the beach while our friends went to pick up the car at Kintla Lake.

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On the drive back to town the sunset along the North Fork Road blew up. Even though we were tired, we had to pull over for a photo. A great end to a great trip!

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Trip notes: We did just shy of 35 miles and 5500' elevation gain in three days. The stretches along Kintla and Bowman Lakes are LONG. You get occasionally views, but it's mostly in the trees. I bet having a boat would be nice. The views in the high country on this trip are some of the best I have seen in Glacier. I would love to continue on to Brown Pass and explore further in those mountains. I'd love to do this trip again, highly recommend!

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[email protected] (Jacob W. Frank) backpacking Glacier National Park Montana https://www.jwfrank.com/blog/2010/9/kintla-bowman Sat, 25 Sep 2010 06:46:00 GMT