Koala climbing a tree Koala checking us out through the tree

When we stopped for a coffee and a bathroom break, there were crazy birds we've never seen before. You'll notice a lot of bird photos throughout this blog.

Masked Lapwing - Vanellus miles Galah Cockatoo - Eolophus roseicapilla Silver Gulls - Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae White-faced heron - Egretta novaehollandiae

Eventually we made it to our destination for the day: Twelve Apostles Marine National Park. It was a beautiful sunny day when we arrived. We explored the boardwalks and trails until we saw a big storm cell coming in off the ocean.

Afternoon sunshine at Twelve Apostles (wide) Afternoon sunshine at Twelve Apostles Waves crashing into the Twelve Apostles Twelvele Apostles alternate view Arch at twelve apostles

Our next big exploration day we headed out to Dandenong Ranges National Park. As soon as we got our of the car we were surrounded by exotic birds. Super colorful birds that you only see as pets in the states were all around us. We spent the day hiking through the forest, looking for birds, kangaroos, and wombats. Sadly, we never saw a wombat, only the square poops they left behind.

The sun shines through the Dandenongs Crimson Rosella Parrot - Platycercus elegans Sulphur-crested cockatoo (Cacatua galerita) in flight Grey Fantail - Rhipidura albiscapa Australian King Parrot - Alisterus scapularis Superb lyrebird - Menura novaehollandiae Laughing Kookaburra - Dacelo novaeguineae Sulphur-crested cockatoo - Cacatua galerita Yellow wattlebird - Anthochaera paradoxa Pied Currawong (2) - Strepera graculina Eastern Yellow Robin - Eopsaltria australis Long-billed Corellas - Cacatua tenuirostris

When we were't doing trips our of the city, we would hit up the city parks. A super cool spot was the Royal Botanic Gardens. Lots of cool plants and birds to check out including my favorite bird of the trip, the Rainbow Lorikeet.

Rainbow Lorikeet - Trichoglossus moluccanus Nymphaea Lily Pied Currawong - Strepera graculina South Australia state flower - Sturt's Desert Pea - Swainsona formosa Rat Tail Cactus

Another great day in the city day we jumped on the tram and headed to St. Kilda Pier. We were hoping to get a glance at the smallest penguin species in the world: the fairy penguin. We found out that during the day they head out into the open water to hunt so we didn't have much luck. But after looking in the jetti rocks we found one hanging out in the shade. As we were walking back from the pier we did catch a glimpse of one fishing. They are awesome swimmers and extremely hard to get photos of them. The other cool species we saw was the arctic tern. We had previously seen this bird in Alaska and Iceland, but always cool to see it in an entirely different place.

Fairy penguin - Eudyptula minor Fishing Fairy Penguin - Eudyptula minor Fishing Fairy Penguin (2) Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) with Melbourne Skyline Arctic Tern in flight - Sterna paradisaea

The Australian Grand Prix was happening while we were in Melbourne, so we couldn't explore Albert Park until after the race. We hit a couple jogs around the lake and saw so many birds that we grabbed our cameras and went back just to take some photos. It's so cool that in such a big city there is so much green space for wildlife. Our friends are big birders, but by the end of the trip we had them sending us cool bird spottings.

White-faced heron hunting - Egretta novaehollandiae Australasian swamphen - Porphyrio melanotus Blue-billed duck on Albert Park Lake - Oxyura australis Crested Pigeons - Ocyphaps lophotes Black Swan on Albert Park Lake - Cygnus atratus Black Swan - Cygnus atratus Pied Stilt reflections - Himantopus leucocephalus Red-rumped parrot - Psephotus haematonotus Crested Pigeons Pacific black duck Australasian swamphen - Porphyrio melanotus

The last of the things we saw around Melboure was heading out to Fort Nepean. We explored the fort and saw an echidna. What cool little critters.

Fort Nepean Short-beaked Echidna - Tachyglossus aculeatus aculeatus

We spent two weeks in Oz, and for the middle weekend we decided to fly out to Adilaide and take the boat to Kangaroo Island.

Gohana on the side of the road Koala resting in a tree Jewel Spider and web Black swans, Australian Shelducks, banded stilts, and eurasian coots at Murray Lake

When we are on the island we headed out to Seal Bay Conservation Park and took a tour out to the beach to see the Australian Sea Lions.

Australian sea lion yawning Australian sea lions napping Australian sea lions Males sea lions sparring at Seal Beach Australian sea lion sleepy Australian sea lion in the surf Australian Sea Lions snuggling Seal Beach, Kangaroo Island panorama Whale bones on the beach

The other day on the island we headed out to Flinder's Chase National Park and hit a few trails. The first was out to Admiral's Arch where we saw a few New Zealand Fur Seals.

Cape du Couedic lighthouse Souther Ocean from Flinders Chase National Park Overlooking the Great Australian Bight Southern Ocean tidal zone in Flinders Chase National Park Admiral's Arch in Flinders Chase National Park New Zealand fur seal on the rocks in Flinders Chase National Park New Zealand fur seal pup

Then we explored Remarkable Rocks.

Overlooking Remarkable Rocks Remarkable Rocks indeed. Remarkable Rocks indeed (2) Remarkable Rocks indeed (3) Remarkable Rocks indeed (4)

After grabbing a snack we headed out on the Platypus Waterholes Walk. Since it was the dry season, the chances of seeing a platypus were extremely low but we rolled the dice anyway. No platypi, but we did see a goanna and cool birds. 

Goanna in Flinders Chase National Park New Holland Honeyeater (2) - Phylidonyris novaehollandiae White-faced heron

Since the weather was still nice we decided to hit a short walk along the Heritage Walk Trail. We wouldn't have picked this hike as a top pick since it's was only about a mile long, but we hit the motherlode of animals. On this short trail we saw wallabies, koalas, kangaroos, more birds, and an extended interaction with an echidna looking for food. It was definitely the highlight of the trip.

Wallaby blep Wallaby sitting under a tree Splendid Fairywren - Malurus splendens Kangaroo Island Short-beaked Echidna walking through duff - Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus Kangaroo Island Short-beaked Echidna - Tachyglossus aculeatus multiaculeatus Koala in Flinders Chase National Park Scarlet Robin - Petroica boodang Australian Magpie Portrait - Cracticus tibicen Grey Kangaroo on Kangaroo Island Cape Barren Geese - Cereopsis novaehollandiae Kangaroo Sunning Moon through the gum trees

Not pictured in the blog were all the great restaurants, dessert shops, bars, cafes, night tours, and DRT (designated rest time) naps we had. It was really awesome to visit a city with personal tour guides. City traveling is not usually what we set out to do, but it was a great change of pace. It was also great spending time with friends and catching up. What I also learned about OZ is that it's big: about the size of the US. So that means there's much more to see and do. We have some other places we want to visit in the short-run while we can still hike and backpack, but I definitely think we will be back in the area again. We also have to hit New Zealand and Tasmania. Standard: cross one thing off your travel list and then add two more.

I hope y'all are doing well, we're getting ready for winter here in Montana.

-Jake

During the 11 years that followed I slowly picked up more outdoor skills as I traveled the US: hiking, backpacking, climbing, and caving. Then last winter my buddy Chris got into mountaineering and asked if I’d be interested in joining him on an expedition. "Hell no... but I have always wanted to climb the Grand.” So, over [one too many] beers @cmferrante, @andyustinphoto, and I agreed that we would make a run at it this summer. 

The day had finally arrived. The plan had us hiking to the Lower Saddle to camp, summit, and then hike out. The advice we got for the approach was to start early, hike slowly, and enjoy the views. So the night before we packed our bags, divided up my extra weight I couldn’t carry (I HAD A DOCTOR”S NOTE GUYS), and loaded up the POWERWAGON!!! We arrived at the trailhead, moved the coolers into the cab of the truck, and vowed to return a few days later to consume the contents in celebration. We were off.

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We slowly made our way through the meadow, up the foothills, stopping often to drink water and eat snacks. A few weeks earlier, when I found out I needed surgery, I called the team and gave them the opportunity to back out. Both said as long as I felt good enough to hike that they were in to carry the extra weight. Since my pack was only supposed to be 25 lbs, that meant Chris and Andy were carrying close to 60-65, even though I was over my limit. So it was definitely slow going.

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Eventually we made it into Garnett Canyon where the trees and grasses were replaced with granite walls. The trail also petered out and became more uneven. We made our way through boulders, over moraines, across snowfields, along waterfalls, and up scree, until we reached the crux of the hike known as the “headwall.”

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Once we all made it safely up we felt a single drop of rain, so I suggested we duck under a nearby glacial erratic to let the storm pass. Our timing couldn’t have been better. For the next 30 or so minutes it hailed nearly 2”, then rained, then hailed some more. It was a perfect opportunity to grab more snacks and watch and listen to the lightning and thunder roll over our heads. Once the storm passed we were greeted with a spectacular double rainbow.

20190723-jwf-0340 20190723-jwf-0360 20190723-jwf-0369 20190723-jwf-0373

The last 10 minute push and we arrived at the Lower Saddle. We filtered water, made dinner, drank whiskey, watched the sunset, and studied the route we planned to tackle in the morning.

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I went to bed nervous, doubts were flowing through my head. I wasn’t sure if I was healthy enough to climb. It’s the first time in a long time that I thought I may have been in over my head. The next day we woke up to strong winds and rain. Since our permit allowed us more time, we decided to take a layover day and not push for the summit. We checked the weather for the following day and it called for clear skies. So we just hung out in camp for the day and took in the windy views.

20190724-jwf-0461NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0552NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0598NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0602NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Eventually the clouds parted and we were greeted to a spectacular sunset. I took the time to get Chris a new Tinder photo.

20190724-jwf-0657NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0643NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0677NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0680NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0700NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190724-jwf-0775NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The next day my alarm went off at 3:30 am. Coffee and breakfast by headlamps. My nerves were on edge as we watched the guided teams leave one by one ahead of us. We filtered water, loaded up our gear, and I made sure we each had our summit soda for the top. As we picked our way through the route it was slow going. I read the route enough times that everything was memorized, but doing it in the dark was challenging. Black Dyke, check. Chockstone chimney, check. Eye of the Needle, check. Just as we made it to the Central Rib I looked back to check on the guys. The beautiful pink light that hits the mountains first thing in the morning was here, and it wasn’t thousands of feet above us, but below us, enveloping the Middle Teton. 

20190725-jwf-0791NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0806NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0822NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0827NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0831NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0841NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0845NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0849NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0856NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0866NPS / Jacob W. Frank
Once we gained the Upper Saddle Chris took over. He had been training for weeks for this moment: his first lead climb. Pitch after pitch, Chris led us through icy chimneys until we arrived at the final slabs.

20190725-jwf-0870NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0875NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0877NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0879NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0881NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0883NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we gained the summit ridge I was overwhelmed with emotions I haven’t felt many times in my life: the first time I saw Denali or Halema’uma’u under the Milky Way, flying over Glacier, and watching my wife walk down the aisle. As we took in the cloudless views from the 13,770’ peak, I was covered in goosebumps.

20190725-jwf-0936NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0922NPS / Jacob W. Frank

As we cracked our beers and toasted the accomplishment, our celebration turned back to focus: we were only halfway.

20190725-jwf-0887NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0892NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0893NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0944NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We picked our way down, rappelled, and scrambled our way back to camp.

20190725-jwf-0951NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0965NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-0995NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-1000NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We arrived just in time for the best sunset of the trip.

20190725-jwf-1005NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-1017NPS / Jacob W. Frank 20190725-jwf-1038NPS / Jacob W. Frank

The following morning we slept in til 8, packed up camp, and hit the trail. I'd like to say our packs felt lighter, but the food weight we carried in was replaced by our crap-filled wag bags. At least the weather was spectacular.

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Looking back, I still can’t believed it all happened. Teamwork definitely makes the dream work! Here's to the next adventure!

Horseback ride through the river at Landmannalaugar

Our planned itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

Day 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur

Day 4: Emstrur to Þórsmörk

It averaged about 9 miles per day which would allow us to arrive at camp early, drop gear, and explore the surrounding area by day hiking.

Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Thermals along the Laugavegur Trail

Day 1 arrived, which happened to be my birthday, and we woke up to spectacular weather. We wanted to get ahead of the crowds so we got up with the light and were one of the first groups on the trail.

Hikers near a thermal feature on the trail Colorful formations near the thermals Corrie and colorful formations on the Laugavegur Trail Colorful formations on the Laugavegur Trail

Immediately we were greeted with spectacular views. Colorful geology and hydrothermal features dotted the landscape. It was a hybrid of Yellowstone and Denali: two of my favorite places.

Morning light on the colorful formations of the Laugavegur Trail Corrie takes in the views of the thermals along the trail Thermal areas and mountains along the Laugavegur Trail Birthday self-portrait along the Laugavegur Trail

Around each new bend in the trail was another photo op. Since we only had to do about 9 miles, we were in no hurry. The trail to Hrafntinnusker was uphill and eventually we hit snow fields.

Laugavegur Trail hiker Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker

Seeing the contrast of white snow and black volcanic sand was pretty awesome.

Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker (2) Corrie hikes the trail to Hrafntinnusker (3)

We arrived to Hrafntinnusker around noon and spirits were high.

Corrie arrives at Hrafntinnusker

I went to the warden hut to check in and pay for the night. Just then a winter storm warning came in over the radio. The storm was headed our way on what would be the morning of our third day. The warden recommended pushing on to the next spot because strong winds were expected to arrive before the storm and there was no cover in this location. I went outside and talked it over with Corrie. After some deliberation about our ability to do 18 miles with a full pack in a day, we decided that it was probably best to keep hiking since the days were long and the weather was good. So we ate lunch strapped on our packs and continued along the trail.

Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

Hikers head to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker Views heading to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (3) Corrie takes in the views along the trail Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (2) Views heading to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (5)

In the 8 or so miles we hiked to get here, the landscape had completely changed. Even though it was late season, there was green vegetation near the melting snowfields. The section was mostly high plateau hiking with views in all directions. I still couldn't believe that there was this much snow in late August. I'm curious what it's like doing this hike early season.

Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (5) Hikers crossing a snowfiled along the trail to Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker (2) Corrie hikes the trail to Álftavatn from the pass Waterfalls from the pass between Álftavatn from Hrafntinnusker

Eventually we reached the highpoint where we could see our destination: Álftavatn. From here it was all downhill or flat. 

Views along the trail to Álftavatn from the pass Álftavatn from the pass

As we descended from the pass, the miles started to take their toll. We needed to stop more frequently for breaks and food.

Corrie hikes the trail dropping down to Álftavatn from the pass   Corrie arrives at Álftavatn

We made it and were one of the first groups to arrive for the day. We found a nice flat spot to set up our tent and then headed over to the warden hut to celebrate. As we were enjoying our freeze dried dinners, a local guide came over to say hello. He had just finished making Icelandic meat soup (lamb stew) for his guests. He said they had too much and asked if we would like some. I offered him a trade: meat soup for some of the bourbon we brought on the trip. He was more than happy to help lighten our load. As we sat there having second dinner, drinking bourbon, enjoying the birthday Oreos that Corrie packed, it began to lightly rain. We had timed our day perfectly. It was time to hit the sack after 18 miles. We decided that we should get up early, hike to Emstrur, recheck the weather, see how we felt, and make a decision to stay put or to push all the way to Þórsmörk.

Campsite at Álftavatn

Álftavatn to Emstrur

We woke up around 6 am and the wind had picked up. It had stopped raining so we took advantage of packing our gear when it was still dry. We moved over to the hut, ate breakfast, and the rain began to fall. The low clouds and rain had brought out the vibrant color in the vegetation. Bright green on black soil. This particular stretch would be the longest of the 4 we were covering so we made sure to keep a good pace.

Views between Hvanngil and Emstrur (2) Corrie crossing near Hvanngil Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil

After a couple miles the rain stopped and the sun started to poke through the clouds on occasion. Again, this section of the trip was drastically different from the previous two. Black volcanic rocks with green vegetation patches on the steeper hillsides. This section of the trail was also lower in elevation and the rivers were much larger. This allowed us to filter more often so we didn't need to carry as much water.

Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (2) Views along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (2) Waterfalls along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (3) Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (5)   Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (6) Views along the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (6) Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (7)

Eventually the clouds raised enough that we were able to see Eyjafjallajökull in the distance. 

Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (8)

Just as we were debating whether to stop and each lunch or try to push on to Emstrur, the warden hut came into view in the distance.

Corrie on the trail to Emstrur from Hvanngil (9)

Upon arrival we checked in with the warden and the storm was supposed to hit around 10 the following morning. We were pretty exhausted at this point. We figured we should make the call to stay or go after lunch. After going back and forth and chatting with some other hikers, we decided to make some coffee and push on. Again, the weather was on our side at the moment and the days were long. We figured it was better to do the hike tired in good weather versus rested in snow. 

Emstrur to Þórsmörk

Not too long after leaving Emstrur, the landscape changed again. Giant glaciers backdropped the trail and rivers roared through canyons.

Hikers on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (4) Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (5) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (4) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (5) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (8)

The weather continued to stay dry until we hit mile 15 for the day. We could see the rain in the direction we were headed although it hadn't reached us yet.

Hikers on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (2) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (11) Views along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (14)

When it did reach us, we decided it was a good time to stop and take a break. We were about 34 miles into the hike with a few more to go, but we were toast. Since we were carrying 4 days worth of food with us and didn't want to carry the food for no reason, we decided to sit there and start housing it. It was really hard getting up after that break. Tired legs, sore feet, and full bellies made the last few miles extremely slow going.

Corrie not not smiling along the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur Corrie on the trail to Þórsmörk from Emstrur (6)

Ahead of schedule and nearly 40 miles later, we made it to Þórsmörk. The rain cleared up for the rest of the day and we celebrated with more Oreos and bourbon. It had been a long time since we had hiked that hard. The bonus is that we made it ahead of most of the other groups, so we were first on the waitlist to catch the shuttle out 2 days early. 

Corrie smiling as we arrive at Þórsmörk Our campsite at Þórsmörk Views at Þórsmörk

The following morning, as we got on the off-road bus, the storm finally arrived. We were lucky to be off the trail only having to deal with slight rain. The other exciting thing is that for the remainder of the trip we would be spending it at Blue Lagoon. Since we were staying at the hotel we had a private pool to soak in. We spent the following days soaking, eating, and drinking. We still had a bottle of vodka that we needed to finish and nothing to do. Well, except our appointments for our in water massages! 

Corrie soaking at Blue Lagoon Sunny morning at Blue Lagoon Sunrise sunburst at Blue Lagoon Colors of Blue Lagoon  It was the perfect ending to a spectacular honeymoon in Iceland.

Corrie and I at Blue Lagoon

This week was planned to be more relaxing and to see the sights near the roads. Some days the weather didn't cooperate so I wont give a day-by-day, but rather a general overview of the things we saw during the week. 

We picked up the car and headed out of town to the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Corrie was navigating and we had no planned route.

Gerðuberg basalt columns with hiker

This house was featured in the Secret Life of Walter Mitty. We didn't realize it until we came back and rewatched the movie. That's kinda neat.

Stykkishólmur coastline

I was pretty excited to see Kirkjufell, but when we got there it's literally off the side of the road. I was pretty surprised how that was the case for many things in Iceland. Because of that, you have multiple tour busses full of people sharing the view with you. I definitely fell victim to how people portray these places on Social. Still a cool spot though for sure.

Kirkjufellsfoss and rainbow

From there we hit more waterfalls and headed out to Snæfellsjökull National Park. It was socked in and raining that day, but we did enjoy the views of the beach.

Svödufoss from downstream Skarðsvík Beach Skarðsvík Beach and coastline

After the peninsula we headed back towards Reykjavík on our way out to the southern coast. Þingvellir National Park is beautiful and holds some pretty awesome history of the country. It's essentially where the first courts of the country were held. Before the times when written word was common. They would read the laws out loud for everyone to hear and would hold courts. In fact one of the rivers was used to carry out the death sentences. It's also where two continents meet: known as Silfra. This is visible throughout the country, but in this park you can actually dive down between the continental plates. Þingvellir is definately worth the trip if you go.

Þingvvellir National Park Öxarárfoss at Þingvvellir Geology at Þingvvellir with sunburst

From Þingvellir we headed out to Gullfoss, one of the larger waterfalls we saw on the trip. The water coming off this thing was nuts.

Gullfoss and Hvítá river Gullfoss and rainbow

And living so close to Yellowstone we couldn't pass up the opportunity to see some sights that reminded us of home...

Strokkur Geyser eruption Krýsuvík thermal area Cloudy black pools in Krýsuvík Boardwalks through Krýsuvík Gunnuhver Hot Springs Gunnuhver Hot Springs (2)
Views along the shore of Kleifarvatn Road along Kleifarvatn

After we hit Reykjanesfólkvangur we headed out to the coast to take in some views that we weren't familiar with.

Krisuvikurberg Cliffs Sandvík continental plates Coastline near Reykjanes Lighthouse (2) Coastline near Reykjanes Lighthouse (3)  After crashing in the worst place on earth, Selfoss (its a long story I'll get into later), we started to make our way east along the southern coast. The further away we got from Reykjavik the more amazing the sights got. We saw some pretty kick-ass waterfalls.

Hjálparfoss Hjálparfoss and mountains Seljalandsfoss from the foot bridge Seljalandsfoss and double rainbow Corrie hiking behind Seljalandsfoss Þjóðvegur views Skógafoss and rainbow

With all the glacial melt, there were tons of braided rivers that reminded us of Alaska, but with smaller mountains. 

Eyjafjallajökull views near Skógar Eyjafjallajökull views near Skógar (2)

But Iceland has horses...good looking ones.

Icelandic horse and Eyjafjallajökull

That night we soaked at our BnB during the sunset. I got up that night to see about the aurora. It was out a little, but too cloudy for any decent views.

Corrie and I toes soaking at Hotel Lambafell Hotel Lambafell and aurora

The next morning we continued further east. We arrived in Vik pretty early in the morning and explored the beaches and watched lots of puffins fishing along the coast.

Katla Volcano Dyrhólaey from Reynisfjara Beach Reynisfjara Beach Sea stacks at Reynisfjara Beach

From Vik we continued on to Skaftafell for some hiking and more waterfalls and glaciers.

Svartifoss from the platform Svartifoss and basalt columns Corrie hikes in Vatnajökull National Park Walking a glacier tour road in Vatnajökull National Park

Since the days were so long we weren't ready to call it quits. One of the highlights we were excited to see was Jökulsárlón, a glacial lagoon. This place was amazing. The wildlife and scenery was top notch.

Jökulsárlón and icebergs Jökulsárlón in evening light Jökulsárlón and icebergs (2) Corrie hiking at Jökulsárlón
In addition to the lagoon with giant glacier background, you could walk across the street to the black sand beach known as diamond beach. Huge chunks of ice would wash up on shore as the tide came in and out. We could have spent more time in that area for sure.

Diamond Beach icebergs Diamond Beach icebergs and sunset Waves crashing at Diamond Beach

But it was time to head back to Reykjavik to get ready for another backpacking trip. We also had planned to splurge and do a fixed wing flight to take in some of the sights from the air.

Driving towards Vatnajökull National Park.

On our way back through Selfoss our rental car broke down. They told us that a rock had hit the radiator and we would need to pay for it. So after cancelling our overflight, we waited for the tow truck to take us the rest of the way back to Reykjavik. I guess it was a good thing we didn't take the flight, because the bill for the tow and the radiator was like $1,700. But we weren't going to let it ruin our good time. We eventually made it to our AirBnB where we would relax and prep for the Laugavegur Trail. Little did we know it was going to be the highlight of the trip, even though we were about to unknowingly hike 40 miles in 2 days.

It's been a LONG time since I've put together a blog post. I've had a bunch of people asking for photos from our recent honeymoon so I figured it was a good time to dust off the keyboard. We've been home for a few weeks now, but trying to edit 3 weeks worth of photos and video has taken the back seat to other work trips and projects. Since there are so many photos to share I am going to break it up into 3 parts. Hover over the photos for more info on them. Here goes...

After a long trip to Iceland we landed in Reykjavik. From there we jumped on a bus, transferred to a bus, and then caught a domestic flight to Isafjourder. We grabbed pizza and beers, packed our bags, and hit the sack. The following morning we woke up and headed to the docks to catch our boat to Hornstrandir. 

Ísafjörður morning reflections

It was a beautiful morning and we were excited to get our first glimpses of the country after so much travel and poor weather. Spirits were high especially after we finally got a good night's rest.

Boat ride out to the Hornstrandir Sea arch in West Fjords Sea arch in West Fjords (2)

After an hour or so of boating and soaking up the scenery, we arrived at our first stop. Our boat was equipped with boat-on-boat technology so the captain unloaded the zodiac and the dayhikers all jumped on.

Our trusty steed in West Fjords Dropping off hikers with the zodiac

After the first drop, we headed to Veiðileysufjörður where we would start out hike. When the boat finally left, Corrie and I just sat on the shore and started laughing. It had taken us over two days of traveling by car, planes, trains, busses, taxis, and boats to get here, and we were finally able to enjoy it. After shedding layers and grabbing some snacks we set off for the pass. The plan for the day was to hike from one fjord to another by going up and over a pass.

Zodiac head back to the boat Leaving veiðileysufjörður veiðileysufjörður reflections The sound of music Our first unnamed waterfalls Waterfall and veiðileysufjörður Away we go from veiðileysufjörður Historic cairns along the trail

After a few hours on the trail we finally made it to the pass. The weather was so nice and I was still jet-lagged so I dropped my pack and took a nap. We knew that today's weather was going to be the nicest of this leg of the trip so we weren't in a hurry. Eventually we decided to move on so we could set up camp. As we made it to the other side of the pass we could see the Horn, the destination of the following day's hike. 

veiðileysufjörður from the pass Heading towards Hornvik from the pass Crossing snow bridges

As we dropped into the Hornvik area the entire valley was ringed with waterfalls. As we were nearing camp we were discussing how much we hoped we would see an arctic fox. It's an animal that neither of had seen before. Just as we made it to camp I said, "hey look at that!" as an arctic fox ran past us. It wasn't close enough for a photo so we were a little bummed, but we didn't know that we'd be seeing many more up close.

More waterfalls along the trail

The next morning we woke up to a low ceiling. We had the advantage of long days on our side so we slept in hoping that the weather would improve. That cool feature that we planned to hike out to today, the Horn,
was completely hidden in clouds. We decided that we should hike out there anyway and hopefully the weather would improve. Since it was high tide we decided to hike out and cross the river where it was wider instead of near the ocean.

Private residence in Hornvik Hiking to the Horn Hiking to the river crossing

Once we made it to the river we took off our shoes and started across the chilly water. On the other side the trail took us past some spectacular waterfalls and black cobble beaches.

River crossing at high tide Moody views along the Horn trail More waterfalls with Corrie Corrie on the Horn Trail

As we pushed further out to the Horn the weather started to improve behind us. The trail ahead was still in the clouds, but we were finally able to see our camp and where we had come from. 

Corrie Climbing up the Horn overlooking Hornvik

As we made it to the Horn you could barely see the Arctic Ocean below or the views ahead. So we decided to sit and see if the weather would improve. Lucky for us, it did.

Corrie on the edge of the Horn Corrie hiking the Horn as clouds roll over the edge

The trail took us along a beautiful, lush ridgeline that looked down on the Arctic Ocean. As we made it to the pass we could see all of Hornvik and the sea of clouds rolling in from the north. It was such an awesome view to take in.

Corrie overlooks Hornvik from above (panorama)

I was slightly behind Corrie on the way up and once she hit the ridge where she could see into the next valley all I heard from her was "Oh fuck yea!" When I made it there a few seconds later I shouted something similar. We were staring at this awesome knife-edged geologic feature with clouds rolling up and over below them. This view was one of the main reasons that we wanted to visit this area and we knew that we had lucked out with the weather. So I pulled out our bottle of Woodford Reserve and we just sat there by ourselves and enjoyed the view.

Corrie and I at Hornbjarg Whiskey views at Hornbjarg Hornbjarg rising above the clouds Wildflower and Hornbjarg as clouds roll over the cliff (3)

We knew that we were going to get hungry for dinner eventually so we decided to push on. The trail was along some of the craziest terrain. It was awesome.

Corrie hikes the trail out to Hornbjarg A cliff of green rises above an ocean of clouds Corrie hike the trail to Hornbjarg in the distance
Corrie taking in the views of Hornbjarg

We stopped often to take photos of the scenery, flowers and foxes playing. There was still plenty of sunlight but we were running out of snacks for the day so we looped back around the ridge and backtracked our way to camp. 

Private residence along the coastline of Hornvik Cottongrass and the Horn

On the way back it was low tide so we decided to cross the river at the ocean this time. The day was still warm enough that I decided to go for a swim. After that the last couple miles home was along a black sand beach, no shoes needed.

Black sand beach at Hornvik Sunset beach walk back to camp Corrie walking on the beach back to camp

After dinner we had a visitor. 

Curious arctic fox

Needless to say it was a long but amazing day.

Hot tea after a great day of hiking My babooshka

The next day we woke up to rain.  That would be our reality for the rest of the trip. Every once in a while the weather would quit long enough for me to break out the camera and take a few shots, but overall it was extremely cold and wet. 

Corrie on the trail to Hloduvik Moss-covered cliff along the trail to Hloduvik Trail sign to Rekavik

We weren't the only ones that were cold and wet. I'm sure a lot of what we hiked through was awesome looking, but at points the visibility was so bad that we had to split up to find the next cairns. All part of the adventure I guess.

Arctic fox curled up to stay warm Hiking to Hloduvik in the clouds Corrie coming down from the pass Corrie hiking the trail to Hloduvik Following the cairns to Hloduvik (2)

Day 4 we woke up to more rain. My sleeping bag had finally dried out from my body heat but I was not looking forward to putting wet clothes and shoes back on. We made breakfast in the tent, a luxury not afforded to us normally because we camp in bear country, and then continued on through rivers and marshes and over more mountain passes.

Corrie taking one last look at Hloduvik before heading out Corrie and river crossings on the trail to Hesteyri Corrie and waterfalls on the trail to Hesteyri

At one point I was so cold and tired that I started to get the "umbles." All of my gear was soaked. Either from sweat or rain. It was so wet and windy that the only gear that would have kept us completely dry would have been like rubber fisherman slickers. So when we finally made it to the pass where we could see our final destination we were both extremely happy.

  Corrie hiking down to Hesteyri from the pass Hesteyri and cairn from the pass Corrie hiking to the campground

We made it to camp, set up our tent, and magically the rain stopped long enough for us to have dinner and hang our stuff out to dry. We also found out that there was a small coffee shop where we could grab some coffee and sweets and get out of the elements for a short bit. 

Our campsite at Hesteyri
Corrie enjoying Rhubarb cake in Hesteyri

Hornstrandir was an awesome trip. We got to see the area at it's best and it's not-so-best. When the weather is good it's mostly easy hiking if you're in good shape and have some navigational skills. When the weather is bad you better have lots of high-calorie food, good rain gear, and excellent navigational skills.

When the boat came the following day to pick us up were weren't too sad to leave, only because we were ready for hot showers and non-dehydrated food. We grabbed dinner and beers back in Isafjourder, hit the sack, grabbed a taxi the following morning, and took the plane back to Reykjavik. From there we planned to rent a car and explore some of the island by road. I'll start working on that and let you know when it's ready! Shoot me some questions if you got 'em!

Here are a few of the highlights of Glacier from 2016. I hope you enjoy!

Winter

Middle Fork Sunset from West Glacier Bridge Lake McDonald Lodge Sunset Sunset over Apgar Mountains Lake McDonald 2.17.16 Historic Boat Dock Beach Lake McDonald Sunset 2.22.16 Lake McDonald at Dusk 2.23.16 Mallards Flying Towards Stanton Crashing Waves on Lake McDonald 3.17.16

Spring

Lake McDonald Public Dock Sunrise 3.19.16 (2) Lake McDonald 4.12.16 Lake McDonald Layers at Sunrise Lake McDonald 4.26.16 Self-portrait Lake McDonald 4.26.16 Chilling at Bowman Lake Bowman Lake Shoreline Alpenglow at Bowman Lake (3) Sunrift Gorge to Baring Falls (2) St. Mary Falls Osprey in Flight - Pandion haliaetus East Glacier Black Bear Cristos at Running Eagle Falls Lina By Weeping Wall Lina at Big Bend (2) Lina and Livingston Range Sunset Lina at Warp Speed McDonald Valley Sunset Upvalley Bo Riding Past the Weeping Wall (2) Bo Riding Past the Weeping Wall Bikers Near the Weeping Wall Bo Riding Over Triple Arches Approaching Oberlin Bend 5.14.16   Chief Mountain James on the Belly Suspension Bridge Gable Mountain and Belly Ranger Station (2) Cosley Lake Sunrise Panorama James at the Belly River Ranger Station Calm Pray Lake and Sinopah Overlooking Two Medicine Valley (2) Overlooking Lower Two Medicine Lake Arrowleaf Balsamroot - Balsamorhiza sagittata (2)

Summer

Views of McDonald Valley From Oberlin Evening Light Along Going-to-the-Sun Road from Oberlin Holly Taking in the Sunset From Oberlin Garden Wall From Oberlin Sunset over Mount Reynolds and Jackson Cloud Shadows Colorful Clouds Megan on The Middle Fork Middle Fork Reflections Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (2) 7.2.16 Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (4) 7.2.16 First View of Cracker Lake Tent view From Cracker Lake at Sunrise Cracker Lake Campground Sunrise Cracker Lake at Sunrise Cracker Lake at Sunrise (4) Cracker Lake and Beargrass Mount Siyeh and Beargrass Evening Light on the Avalanch Lake Trail Avalanche Lake Hike with Off-road Wheelchair 13 Avalanche Lake 7.15.16 Oberlin Bend From the Highline Trail Clements and Oberlin from the Highline Lake McDonald and Historic DeSmet from Highline Trail Swiftcurrent Lookout Sunset Granite Park Chalet Sunset Heavens Peak (2) 7.19.16 Tent View from Granite Park Trails Cabin Grinnell Glacier Overlook May Glacier Valley From the Garden Wall Sunset at Swiftcurrent Lake 7.23.16 Grinnell Point Reflections Swiftcurrent Creek Sunrise Wynn Mountain and Swiftcurrent Creek Sunrise Many Glacier Hotel Sunrise Moonset over Grinnell Point Quinn Dropping in Iceberg Lake Beargrass in Iceberg Valley (2) Grinnel Lake and Angel Wing Grinnel Glacier Trail Flowers Upper Grinnell Lake Upper Grinnell Lake Reflections Tight Quinn, Brittany, and Lex Crossing the Outlet Wildflowers and Grinnell Glacier Looking Down on Grinnell Lake From Angel Wing Coming off Angel Wing Grinnell Creek in Grinnell Glacier Basin Grinnell Lake, Allen Mountain, and Angel Wing Sunrise over Logan Pass 7.30.16 First Light on Heavens Peak 7.30.16 Going-to-the-Sun Mountain From Hidden Lake Trail Hidden Lake 7.30.16 Hidden Lake Panorama Forrest on the Reynolds Route Dan Climbing Reynolds Hiker on the Summit of Reynolds Saint Mary Lake From Reynolds Seth Walking on the Reynolds Summit Reynolds Summit View Panorama Hikers at Cutbank Pass Panorama Pitamakan Lake From the Pass (2) Oldman Lake, Flinch Peak, and Mt. Morgan Hikers on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (5) Shawn and Lauren on Tinkham Mountain Ridge (7) Tinkham Mountain and Pumpelly Glacier Saint Mary Lake Sunset Panorama 8.13.16 Backcountry Beers and Kayak Toast at Hidden Lake Rowing on Swiftcurrent Lake Ranger Jake and Sally Jewell Centennial InstaMeet Rainbow at Lake McDonald for Centennial InstaMeet (2)

Fall

Alpine Sunset over Mount Cannon Alpine Sunset over Mount Cannon (3) Alpine Sunset From Oberlin Alpine Sunset over Heavens Peak (3) Cloudy Trees Middle Fork of the Flathead From the Belton Bridge Fall Drive Along Lake McDonald 10.21.16 North Fork RIver Driving Forrest Pancakes Fire Self-portrait Bowmand Lake Road Morning Fog on Bowman Lake Bowman Lake Sunrise 10.22.16 Thunderbird Flank Through the Clouds Rainbow Peak Sunrise Bowman Lake Campground Sunrise Hiker Larch Trees at Bowman Larch Trees in the North Fork Lina, Forrest, and Quinn

We got on trail about 3 pm and it took us forever to arrive at Granite Park because the flowers were OFF THE HOOK! Lots of stopping for photos along the way. It was a little windy until the evening when it calmed down and the bugs came out. After that we weren't stopping for photos as much. Regardless, it was an awesome day.

Oberlin Bend From the Highline Trail Corrie and Haystack Butte Clements and Oberlin from the Highline Green on the Highline Corrie, Beargrass and the Highline Going-to-the-Sun Road and Reynolds Mountain Corrie on the Highline Trail near Haystack Butte Glacier Lilys on the Highline Trail Lunch Spot on the Highline Trail McDonald Valley View Near Haystack Butte Corrie and Heavens Peak Lake McDonald and Historic DeSmet from Highline Trail Lake McDonald Portrait from Highline Trail McDonald Valley and Rays from Highline Trail Mt. Cannon and Lake McDonald from the Highline Highline Trail near Grante Park Swiftcurrent Lookout Sunset Highline Trail and Heavens Peak near Granite Park Golden Eagle over Granite Park Granite Park Chalet Sunset Corrie on the Highline Near Granite Park Mt. Cannon, Lake McDonald, Heavens Peak and Glacier Lilys Heavens Peak 7.19.16 Heavens Peak Portrait 7.19.16 Garden Wall Portrait Heavens Peak (2) 7.19.16 Heavens Peak (3) 7.19.16 IMG_5383

We arrived to camp just in time for sunset, dinner, and whiskey all before the clouds came in and started raining. 

Day 2: Granite Park to Grinnell Glacier Overlook and Back, then Granite Park to Many Glacier via Swiftcurrent Pass Trail

The plan the following morning was to hike up the spur trail early am for sunrise, but when the alarm went off at 5:30 it was still raining. When we woke up the second time the clouds hard parted and the sun came out. It was a pretty awesome view to wake up to. Just before we headed out to the spur trail the packers arrived to the chalet so I had to chat and take a few snaps. On days like these the packers have one of the coolest jobs in the park, no doubt. 

We got up the Grinnell Glacier overlook and hung our for lunch. Just as we were coming down the day hikers were arriving from Logan Pass. We headed back to the chalet, grabbed our packs, and started heading over to Many Glacier. I had never heard anything about Swiftcurrent Pass before, so needless to say we were blown away by the view and the trail coming off the pass in the valley. Waterfalls, headwalls, Swiftcurrent Glacier, and blue-green lakes. It was another picture perfect day, apart from the 40-50 mph gusts. 

Tent View from Granite Park Trails Cabin Heavens Peak Reflection Relaxing at Grinnell Glacier Overlook Grinnell Glacier Overlook May Glacier Valley From the Garden Wall Gem Glacier Grinnell Lake and Lake Sherburne Salamander and Grinnell Glaciers Grinnell Glacier From the Garden Wall Highline Spur Trail Corrie on the Spur Trail Heavens Peak from the Spur Junction View From the Granite Park Chalet Front Door Mt. Grinnell From Swiftcurrent Pass Swiftcurrent Glacier From Swiftcurrent Pass Headwaters of Swiftcurrent Creek Corrie and Mt. Grinnell Bullhead Lake Portrait From Swiftcurrent Pass Trail Corrie and Swiftcurrent Glacier Bullhead Lake From Swiftcurrent Pass Trail

After we got off the switchbacks it seemed to take forever to make it back to the road. By the time we arrived we were ready for some beers and some food. Good thing the Motor Inn has the perfect cure for what we needed, pizza and beer. Perfect end to an awesome overnight.

As we headed out the next morning we had to stop and smell the flowers.

Wildflowers in Many Glacier 7.21.16

I am headed back over to Many Glacier this weekend for work and a little RnR. I am hoping to do a couple fun hikes in additions to getting some filming done. I hope all is well with you!

-Jake

Daniel Hiking Mount Oberlin (2) Sledding Mount Oberlin Saddle James Hiking (2) Summit Selfie Views of McDonald Valley From Oberlin (3) Holly Taking in the Sunset From Oberlin Garden Wall From Oberlin Upslope Man Summer Solstice Summit Soda Syndicate Last Light on Mount Reynolds Solstice Panorama 6.20.16 Cloud Shadows Colorful Clouds

I tried to head into Cracker lake earlier this year and had to bail since the weather was too windy. The forecast was calling for 50mph winds so I just called it. This weekend the weather looked pretty decent so I decided to try again. All I gotta say is wow. I have been to Cracker Lake before, but nothing beats watching a sunrise there. I would put it very high on the list of things to do in Glacier. The drive into the valley started off with a bear jam due to a grizz on the side of the road, but we didn't care about the bear because the wildflowers were off the hook!

Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (4) 7.2.16 Wildflowers along the Many Galcier Road (2) 7.2.16

Once we got on trail it's a pretty boring hike for the first 4 miles or so minus a few open spots. Then eventually you get into the basin and you are greeted with this spectacular view.

Group Hiking in Cracker Lake (2)

The lake itself is the most unique color of blue. It looks fake even in real life.

First View of Cracker Lake Hiking to Cracker Lake Campground Jenn at Cracker Lake

Eventually we made it to camp had some beers and whiskey, made dinner, and then explored the area during the last hour of daylight.

Dinner at Cracker Lake Cracker Lake Campground Sunset Head of Cracker Lake Sunset Canyon Creek Sunset Canyon Creek and Cracker Lake Sunset Cracker Mine Equipment Sunset Cracker Mine Equipment Sunset (2)

The next morning at 5:38 am we work up to an amazing sunrise. This was the entire reason that I wanted to come out to Cracker Lake and it didn't disappoint.

Tent view From Cracker Lake at Sunrise Cracker Lake Campground Sunrise Cracker Lake at Sunrise Cracker Lake at Sunrise Portrait Cracker Lake at Sunrise (2) Cracker Lake at Sunrise (3) Cracker Lake at Sunrise (4) Cracker Lake Campground Corn Lily Leaves

After breakfast half our group left and the rest of us stayed to explore more of the area and relax. We started our way up Allen Mountain but again, it was SUPER windy so we decided to just chill in an awesome patch of beargrass where we watched a moose browse along the lake and the clouds float by.

Mount Siyeh and Beargrass Relaxing in the Beargrass Emily at the Head of Cracker Lake Me in the Furnace (2)

After a few hours of chilling we were supposed to meet another group of friends back near the campground so we headed back to make lunch, finish our whiskey and catch some more sun. They never showed because the went on a different hike so we ended up taking a nap before waking up and deciding to head back to the trailhead. This was our last view of the lake and the views on the way out. Needless to say it was a blast of a trip. 

Twisted Wood at Cracker Lake Canyon Creek Below Cracker Lake Hiking back to the Cracker Lake Trailhead

I'm hoping to stretch a bunch this week and get loose to try and do Mount Siyeh if the weather cooperates. Not sure how I will do, but I won't know unless I give it a go. Hopefully you all are having a great summer so far! If you make it this way be sure to hit me up! Happy 4th!

–Jake

The plan was to head into Cosley Lake for two nights. The first night we planned to get on trail by 4pm so we could make camp by sunset. The drive out to the trailhead was spectacular. We also ran into Daniel aka Mammoth, who walked to Glacier National Park from NY and has been walking for 2 years. He just crossed the 16K mile mark! We ended up speaking with him for a little while and he said he was about to begin his hike of the CDT from Canada to Mexico. Such a cool spot to run into him.

Chief Mountain Yellow Mountain East Daniel Johnson-Utsogn

Eventually we made it on trail, and it was glorious. It was my first time in the Belly River area, and I don't know what took me so long to get there.

Mariah and Emily (2) Emily on the Trail Belly River Emily and Mariah on the Trail Hiking into the Ranger Station Emily Looking at the Map Mariah Taking in the View Views at the Gable Junction James on the Belly Suspension Bridge Gable Mountain and Belly Ranger Station (2) Mariah and Emily at Gros Ventre Falls Gable Mountain THrough the Trees Stormy Chief Mountain Gable Mountain (2) Cosley Lake Trail

We made it to camp just in time for for dinner, some whiskey, and to set up camp before the the wind started to pick up and the rain to start. The next morning we woke up to fresh snow and a quiet serene morning. I walked around the lake while the others stayed in the tents. Then the reflection on the lake started to fade so I headed back to camp to wake the others and make breakfast.

Cosley Ridge in the Clouds Silky Phacelia at Cosley Lake Mariah and Emily in the Tent

After the morning we decided to chill around camp. We saw a bear, pine marten, moose, beaver, deer, as well as some crazy clouds that kept forming and breaking up over the mountains.

Emily Reading the Map at Cosley Lake Nick Along Cosley Lake Moose Along Cosley Lake James Chilling on the Shore of Cosley Lake Eastern Shore of Cosley Lake

The rain picked up again in the evening so we called it a night. The next morning we woke up to some of the best backcountry views I have had in a while. 

Cosley Lake Sunrise Morning Fog at Cosley Lake Morning Fog on Cosley Lake (2) Mt. Kipp Portrait Cosley Lake Sunrise Panorama Cosley Lake and Log Pyramid Peak Portrait Nick and James at Cosley Lake Geology Reflections on Cosley Lake

After spending about 2 hours shooting, we decided it was time to head back to the car. On the trail we saw some fresh tracks.

Black Bear Track on the Trail Gros Ventre Falls Gros Ventre Falls Portrait (2) James on the Cosley Lake Trail

We stopped at the Ranger Station for lunch and to take in the views. 

James at the Belly River Ranger Station Belly River Ranger Station

After all the rain, the trail was muddy on the way back. The hill back up to the car was a little tough because of it. We were slipping around all over the place. Once we made it back to the car we had a cooler waiting for us with ice cold beers. We sat in the parking lot for an hour, stretched, and enjoyed the sun. As we passed back through East Glacier we made sure to stop at Serrano's and grabbed some food and margaritas. It was an awesome trip with some good company. 

This next week I am headed out to Quartz Lake for 3 days. Here's hoping the weather holds out. Things in Glacier are moving along. The Going-to-the-Sun Road just opened, people are showing up, and it looks to be a great summer. If you are in the area, be sure to hit me up!

-Jake

Back on the mainland and back to reality… Just got around to finishing up my edits from the trip so I figured I would fill you in on some updates. The main reason for our trip was to attend a wedding on Kaua’i, and we figured we should stay an extra 3 and a half weeks for a little vacation. Especially after spending the holidays in Montana with a pretty stormy and cloudy winter, we were ready for no shoes, sun, swimming, cocktails, poke, volcanoes, hammocks, hiking, backpacking, skinny-dipping, and anything else that might sound warm.

On our first trip to Hawai’i we found out about a weird rule that Hawaiian airlines has about camp stoves; they don’t allow them. So we decided to fly into Big Island, spend a couple days, leave our stove on the Island, head to Kaua’i for 2 weeks, and then return to Big Island for 10 days where our camp stove would be waiting for us to use on our backpack trip.

Upon arrival on Big Island we headed to Captain Cook for the next couple days. The only thing we did worth mentioning is we went down to Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historic Park for the sunset where some huge waves were crashing against the shore.

Sunset Tikis Rough Seas at Sunset Crashing Waves at Sunset Pu'uhonua O Honaunau Shorebird Sunset Pu'uhonua O Honaunau Sunset (2)

Once we landed in Kaua’i we headed to the store, picked up supplies, and then drove up to Koke’e state park where we would be staying in a cabin for the next few days. Because I was a little hobbled from my knee injury, we were limited to hiking around 5 miles per day. Even still we hit the sunrise and sunset every day, took naps, hiked, and birded. Koke’e is one of our favorite spots on the island and it was awesome to be back and explore some new areas.

Flying Into Kauai

First Look at Waimea Canyon Morning Fog Rays (2) Lehua Sunrise Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (2) Views from the Canyon Rim Trail Two Dimensions Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout Vog Sunrise from Waimea Canyon Lookout (4) Waimea Canyon and Waipo'o Falls Waimean Canyon Colors Waimean Canyon Sunrise at Canyon Overlook Forest Trail Koke'e Trees Waimea Canyon Voggy Sunrise Panorama Waimea Canyon Sunset from Canyon Trailhead Waipo'o Falls Brink and Waimea Canyon

Kalalau Overlook (2) Kalalau Overlook Sunrise from Wai'ale'ale

IMG_7257 IMG_7265

IMG_7270

From Koke’e we left the mountains and headed to the beach for some RnR. We beach camped at Anini Beach with a prime camping under a sweet hammock tree. While on north shore we met up with friends from Montana, did lots of snorkeling, went kayaking and zip lining, visited the Kilauea lighthouse the last day it was open before it closed for renovations, and spent a good amount of time in the hammock.  

Kayaking

Hanging at 'Anini Beach Sunrise at 'Anini Beach

IMG_7274 Kīlauea Point Sunrise from 'Anini Beach Kīlauea Point Kīlauea Lighthouse Fresnel Lens

Hawaiian Goose (Nēnē) - Branta sandvicensis Laysan Albatross - Phoebastria immutabilis Red-footed Booby - Sula sula

Dueling Red Junglefowl - Gallus gallus

After our stay on the beach it was time to head to Kapa’a for the wedding. Our friends rented a big house right on the water and we spent the next few days snorkeling, drinking, and eating. The wedding was at Moloa’a Beach, where Gilligan’s Island as filmed, in front of a small group of people.

The following day was out last day on the island so we went down to dukes, rented some paddleboards, and learned how to SUP. I was starting to get the hang of it, even though it was a little rough. At lunch we took a break and had too many cocktails. Since I was a little tipsy I thought it was a good idea to wear my sunglasses out on the water, hit a wave and my glasses went into the drink. That was really the only bad thing that happened for the entire month, so I was a little bummed, only because I had to buy a temporary pair that was no good.

Sunrise at Kapa'a

SUP at Sunrise (2) Moloa`a Beach IMG_6986 IMG_7012 Moloa`a Beach Waves Crashing Jess at Sunrise

Green Anole - Anole carolinensis

After saying our goodbyes we headed back to Big Island and down to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. We spent the next couple days in Kulanaokuaiki campground where we could day hike and explore some new areas of the park. We were able to hook up with a ranger from the park that was willing to offer us a shuttle on a backcountry trip, so the next day we grabbed a permit and headed out to Halape. The plan was to stay there for two nights, then head to ‘Apua for a night to break up the 12 miles back across the coast and lava fields. This was probably the coolest part of the entire trip.

Blue Hour at Halema'uma'u Halema'uma'u

Camping at Kulanaokuaiki Enjoying the Sunrise at Halema'uma'u Mauna Loa Access Road

We were super tired and hot when we finally made it to Halape, but it was such a cool campsite. It has a small lagoon for snorkeling and swimming in addition to a brackish pond that feels more like freshwater. It was so nice to be able to swim everyday in the backcountry, and we even snorkeled which was a backcountry first. This was the best snorkeling up to that point in the trip. Lots of cool coral, large schools of small fish, and like a 4ft trumpet fish scared the shit out of me. Or camp spot was super choice also. It had a table and chairs built out of rocks, trees for shade, and a private walkway out to the beach with some decent tide pools. 

IMG_7342

Sunrise at Halape Morning Coffee Views at Halape Halape Tidepools Spinx Moth Caterpillar Halape Campspot Brackish Ponds at Halape Relaxing in the Shade at Halape Hammock Swing at Halape Halape Sunset Stroll at Halape Sunset at Halape (2) Halape Sunset Halape Campspot (2) Campspot at Halepe (3) Sunrise from our Camp Spot Halepe

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The only hiccup that we had was with our fuel can. I used the wrong top and it took me about 40 minutes of hacking away at it to get it open. Wouldn’t have ruined the trip, but having warm food and drinks is one of the small comforts in the backcountry.

IMG_7354

Moving day we decided to get an early start to beat the heat. It was a solid plan except when we arrived at ‘Apua there was zero shade and it was crazy hot. We were able to use my hammock and tent poles to create a little shade where we grabbed a nap during the heat of the day. Once the heat broke we explored more tide pools and watched the sunset. The wind was strong that day, creating some huge waves that made for some great photos. 

Backpacking to Keahou Backpacking to Keahou (2) Backpacker on the CCC wall to Keahou Corrie at Apua Point Apua Point Apua Point Afternoon Light Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats (2) Evening Light at Apua Point Waves Evening Light at Apua Point Waves (2) Evening Light at Apua Point Waves (3) Evening Light at Apua Point Tidal Flats (3) Sunset at Apua Point Apua Point Campspot Sunrise on Mauna Loa From Apua Point Sea Arch Sunrise Near Apua Point Sea Arch Near Apua Point Corrie on the Lava Fields

Once we came out of the backcountry we rented a small place down in Pahoa where we would spend the last few days relaxing, and get our last of the snorkeling in. We visited the Kapoho tide pools which were amazing for snorkeling. Some of the best for clear water, little to no currents, and loads of fish. I highly recommend visiting them if you are in the area.

The last day we grabbed massages and drove back to Kona via the saddle road.  We checked into Uncle Billy’s in Captain Cook, watched our last sunset of the trip from our balcony, had our last dinner and drinks, and headed to the airport the next day.

Last Sunset of the Trip

The first time I went to Hawaii we spent a lot of time camping and moving often. We were able to see a good amount of stuff, but it wasn’t very relaxing. The second time I went was for a wedding and did a little too much relaxing, to the point where I was looking for more to do. This time we dialed it in perfectly. We picked our 2 favorite islands, stay for two weeks each, and only moved every 3-5 days. It was a great combination of relaxing and adventure, and was just what the doctor ordered. 

I hope everyone is well and I am looking forward to the spring and getting back on the trail in the mountains here again!

-Jake

Spring

Mergansers over Lake McDonald Lake McDonald Sunset Crashing Waves on Lake McDonald Lake McDonald Shoreline Sunset Lake McDonald Shoreline Afternoon Light Along North Fork Road Eagle with Coot Sunset Morning Reflections at Lake McDonald Harlequin Duck (Long exposure) Lake McDonald Dock and Aurora Aurora Arc on Lake McDonald Aurora Reflections on Lake McDonald Panorama Red-necked Grebe and Mount Brown Alpenglow Red-necked Grebe - Podiceps grisegena Avalanche Lake Sunset Lake McDonald Sunrise 4-29-15 Mule Deer and Lake McDonald Sunset Moonrise over Camas Road Lead Image Many Glacier Hotel Lake Sherburne Lake McDonald Sunset - 5:26:15 Foggy Lake McDonald Dark-eyed Junco Nest Bald Eagle and Chick Avalanche Gorge Birdwoman Falls (2) Haystack Creek Falls from GTSR Ali on Numa Fire Lookout Trail Bald Eagle near Lake McDonald Two Medicine Lake Chipmunk eating Flowerhead Rufous Hummingbird Female on Nest (2)

Summer

Hikers on Oberline Summit Alpine Avens on Oberlin Backlight Gnats Swiftcurrent Lake Sunrise Baring Falls Still Virginia Falls Shooting Stars at Virginia Falls Wild Goos Island Overlook Smokey Wild Goose Island OVerlook Panorama Lake McDonald - August 6, 2015 Bighorn Sheep at Logan (2) Lewis Monkey Flowers and Reynolds Alpenglow Going-to-the-Sun Alpenglow and WIldflowers Hiker Under Milky Way Flowers and Milky Way Tree Pose at Lake McDonald Upper Lake McDonald Valley Sunset Haze over Lake McDonald Milky Way and Aurora Portrait of a Kid Marmot on a Rock Early Afternoon at Hidden Lake Evening Light at Hidden Lake Evening at Hidden Lake Hidden Lake Panorama Hidden Creek Valley Sunset DeSmet Profile Lake McDonald Lodge Lobby Blood Moon over Snyder Ridge Split Level near first Pullout

Fall

Sunrise up the Saint Mary Valley Reynolds Creek Sunrise Saint Mary Lake Shoreline Wild Goose Island Aspen Grove Sunburst Fall in Lake McDonald Valley Panorama Heavens Peak Sunset Heavens Peak Red Sky Sunset Sunset at the Remnants of Clements Glacier Going-to-the-Sun Mountain and Blood Moon Double-exposure Blood Supermoon - Milky Way Double Exposure 9.27.15 Lake McDonald Fall Shoreline Sunrise over Glacier National Park Golden Layers Mount Brown and Mount Brown Fire Lookout Looking Down on Grinnell Glacier Grinnell Glacier, The Garden Wall, and Heavens Peak in the Distance Swiftcurrent Lookout From the Air Grinnell, Salamander, and Gem Glaciers Mount Reynolds and Logan Pass Area Mount Jackson and Harrison Glacier Mount Stimpson and Mount St. Nicholas Saint Mary Lake (2) Logan, Pumpelly, Blakfoot, and Harrison Glaciers Flinsch Peak in Two Medicine Little Dog and Summit Mountain Mount St. Nicholas Lake McDonald Homecoming

Winter(ish)

Avalanche Lake 11-15-15 Lake McDonald Fall Sunset 11.16.15 Driftwood Sunset Panorama Lake McDonald Morning 11.20.15 Lake McDonald Sunset Wide Angle 11.20.15 Alpenglow at Lake McDonald 11.20.15 Sunset on Vaught, Cannon, and Brown Alpenglow Over Lake McDonald Valley Stanton, Vaught, and McPartland from Lake McDonald Lodge Self-portrait - Relaxing on the Dock

If you’ve never been to the park, Wrangell is 13.2 million acres, the largest national park in the United States, roughly the size of Switzerland. Access is limited. There is only one main road into the center of the park, which dead ends in the town of Kennicott, a historic copper mining area. This is where we would be based out of for the next 10 days. We spent the first night in the Lodge and then packed for our backpack trip out to Donoho Basin.

Bohemian waxwing - Bombycilla garrulus

Bohemian Waxwing seen along the McCarthy Road

Tundra Swans - Cygnus columbianus

Tundra Swans seen along the McCarthy Road

Kennicott Glacier view from Hotel Porch

View from the Lodge

In order to get the Donoho basin you are required to traverse the Root glacier roughly 1 mile wide. Once on the west side of the glacier, there is a route towards series of unnamed lakes.  This is where we planned to camp because there are bear boxes. We had a bit of a late start but weren’t too worried since the sun wasn’t setting until 11pm. Hiking across the Root Glacier was a very unique experience. I have traveled next to glaciers and under glaciers, but never on a glacier. It felt exactly as I thought it would, walking on a giant piece of ice. It was fairly slow going because of the difficulty of the terrain, but also because of how scenic it was. 

Hikers on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank

People on the Root Glacier

Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (8)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (9)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Pool on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (12)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (13)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Views from the Root Glacier (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Views from the Root Glacier (5)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

We walked over rivers, along lakes, navigated through crevasses, and over moraines (all on the glacier) until we finally reached the other side. From there we needed to make a decision whether to camp or to continue to push on to the next campsite. Since it was only 5 o’clock and the map said we had 3 miles to go, we made the decision to continue. For those of you who have hiked off-trail bushwhacking in Alaska, you know that 3 miles is no easy task. We hiked, and hiked, and hiked some more, and it seemed that we were barely moving.  When one of our team members fell ill from food poisoning the night before, we decided that we would not make it to the bear boxes that we hoped to camp at and found trees to tie our food up into instead. Once camp was set up and we made dinner it was about 10:30 PM. I can honestly say that it was one of the most difficult hikes that I’ve ever done, not because of the elevation or distance, but rather the difficulty in pushing through the bush with a significantly large and heavy pack.  It seemed all the branches were reaching out to touch me and say, “Slow down, take it all in. There is no need to go so fast.” Ughh.

Lake 2 Creek Sunset and Mount BlackburnNPS / Jacob W. Frank Mount Blackburn and Donoho Peak from Lake 2NPS / Jacob W. Frank Fireweed Sunset at Lake 2NPS / Jacob W. Frank

When I woke up the next day and stuck my head out of the tent it was apparent that had made the right decision to push on. It was a beautiful sunrise with the perfectly still lake. It looked as if it were going to be great weather all day. We grabbed breakfast, packed our daypacks, and headed further up valley towards Gates glacier. As we made it past the second lake and eventually to the third lake we were directly alongside the Kennicott glacier. The 16K ft foot mountain Mt. Blackburn rose in the distance behind a sea of ice.

Morning Reflections from Lake 2 - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Gates Glacier From Lake 3 - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiker viewing Kennicott Glacier near Wilderness Boundary - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Kennicott Glacier Crevasses with BlackburnNPS / Jacob W. Frank Kennicott Glacier Lateral View - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiking the Kennicott Glacier Lateral Moraine (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Kennicott Glacier and Hidden Creek PassNPS / Jacob W. Frank Panoramic View from Wilderness Boundary - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank

After a few hours of day hiking we decided to turn around, pack up camp, and head to our next camp spot alongside the Root glacier. This time we knew where we were going and we still managed to lose the route and ended up bushwhacking in 10+ ft tall alder. Gotta love AK.

Backpackers Near Lake 2NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Backpackers Bushwhacking in Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank Porphyry Mountain and National Creek Rock Glacier From Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank

People are in the photo!!!

Blackburn From Lake 2 - Donoho BasinNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Views from first Lake and Mount Blackburn 16Kft​

Hiking the Lateral Morain of Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once we made back to the Root Glacier it was time for a cocktail or two and a little time to soak in the scenery.

The next morning we woke to another bluebird day. After grabbing some breakfast we only had to traverse the glacier once more, this time deciding to take an alternate route. Walking on a glacier is like being on a maze of ice. You never know when your route will dead-end. Sometimes you can find a work-around; sometimes you just have to backtrack. It makes for fun, but tiring hiking.

Tent View of the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Headed Towards the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Stepping onto the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring a pool on the Root Glacier (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Views from the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Backpackers Exploring the Root Glacier (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Recording the Sounds of the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Ice Climbing on the Root GlacierNPS / Jacob W. Frank Ice Climbing on the Root Glacier (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank

Along the way we found some spectacular scenery and the weather was perfect. So much so that I thought I could catch a tan for a little bit.

The next day was a day of flying. We had two flights scheduled. The first flight we would head south to the Tana River, to the Tana Glacier, Bagley Icefield, and Icy Bay before heading back along Baldwin and Chitina Glaciers.  Instead of picking my favs I put all of them in a slide show so that you can view all of them in order if you like. I have also included a map of all of our flights. This first one is labeled Lynn Flight 1. http://caltopo.com/m/031C

After landing and grabbing lunch we headed back up in the air and out towards Tebay Lakes, the Bremner River, Fan Glacier, then north past the Chitina River to Hidden Creek and the Kennicott Glacier. Here is a slide show from that flight. It’s amazing what we saw up there. I think I am forever ruined about what will excite me in the future. I can’t remember the last time I felt so blown away by what I was seeing. Oh wait, yes I can. It was in Denali NP looking at the Mountain. Alaska is awesome if you aren’t picking up what I am laying down…

The next day was spent conducting interviews of some local residents before having the chance to tour the historic Kennicott Copper Mill. This entire building is nuts. It’s a 14 story building and was used to mine the copper our of the surrounding mountains. It was the most productive copper mill in the world profiting nearly $1.5 billion in today’s dollars. Everything was vertically integrated from the mines, to the mill, to the railway to the coast, and eventual boats that would transport the copper down to Seattle.  It’s really an amazing sight to see.

The next day we would be flying into Bremner historic mining district where we would be camping for the next 3 days. We were concerned about getting stuck out there so we planned for an early pickup just incase the weather turned and we needed to spend a few extra days out there. This time we were allowed to “pack” heavy because we were not carrying all of our gear. So we brought everything including a case of beer. We had a late arrival due to our plane breaking down just before takeoff (That’s not what you want to hear about your plane before you get in it). So when we landed we spent the remaining time exploring the area around camp and hit the sack.

Backpackers Watching their Flight LeaveNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Campsite (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers of Bremner (6)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Dinner Near Bremner Landing StripNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The next day we woke up and explored around camp for a short while before heading up to the Bremner bunkhouse and checking out all the historic garbage. When I say garbage I mean artifacts including buildings, a powerhouse, cars, tractors, stoves, tools, etc. All very cool, very heavy stuff. It’s crazy they were able to get everything out to this remote spot. The stuff is so cool in fact that they hire volunteers to live on site and make sure people don’t steal anything. We met the volunteers, and their dog companion, and had a great time chatting about their experiences so far. The wildflowers were also still blooming despite a rather dry summer so I was excited to see all the familiar faces.

Wildflowers of Bremner (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Mine EquipmentNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Historic DistrictNPS / Jacob W. Frank Taking off from Bremner Landing Strip (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiking from the Landing Strip (3)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner CrossNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner VehiclesNPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner Equipment (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Bremner ToolsNPS / Jacob W. Frank Inside Dry HouseNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Powerhouse Equipment (4)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Powerhouse EquipmentNPS / Jacob W. Frank

From the mining camp we headed up to one of the area tarns that was used as an aqueduct for the area water. Along the way we saw some nice waterfalls, cool animals like ptarmigan, pika, and marmots, and some great views of the mountains. Once we were done we headed back to the bunkhouse and made a plan to hike with the volunteer couple the following day.

Waterfalls Along the Aqueduct (2)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Hoary MarmotNPS / Jacob W. Frank Collared Pika (3) - Ochotona collarisNPS / Jacob W. Frank Collared Pika (2) - Ochotona collarisNPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers Along Shore of Tarn Above AqueductNPS / Jacob W. Frank Historic Tools in BremnerNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hikers Along Shore of Tarn Above AqueductNPS / Jacob W. Frank Hiker in Aqueduct DrainageNPS / Jacob W. Frank

The next day we woke up to the entire valley covered in fog. We took the old mining road up to another site where they used to mine for gold. As we went up in elevation we hike out of the fog and the sun was burning off what remained. Immediately when we made it into the cirque basin I noticed more pika, ptarmigan, and marmots. The ptarmigan were everywhere in fact. We noticed that the rock ptarmigan at higher elevations were not as skittish as the willow ptarmigan at lower elevations. In fact they seemed to like us. We even had a few chicks walk right up to us and scope us out. After a beautiful day of hiking we headed back to camp and waited for the plane to pick us up. 

Camping in the FogNPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers of Bremner (7)NPS / Jacob W. Frank Old Chevy in the Bremner DistrictNPS / Jacob W. Frank Rock Ptarmigan and Chicks - Lagopus mutaNPS / Jacob W. Frank Wildflowers of BremnerNPS / Jacob W. Frank Taking off from Bremner Landing StripNPS / Jacob W. Frank

Once we were back in McCarthy we headed out for dinner and dumped our memory cards in preparation for our final day of flying.

The weather was a little iffy but since we didn’t have a particular agenda for this flight we were able to seek out the good weather. We went up the Nizina River to the Nizina, Federika, and Russel Glaciers via Skolai pass and then over to the Bonanza Ridge area including the Stairway Icefall, Root/Gates/Kennicott glaciers. This day wasn’t as spectacular as the other flights, but it was still a good opportunity to shoot some other areas of the park we had yet to see.

I mentioned that we had the chance to head out to Bremner for our overnight trip but we were supposed to hit Skolai Pass area also. I didn’t really know what I was missing until this flight. If you go to Wrangell for a fly-in trip, Skolai is like a mini Switzerland. If I get the chance to go back I hope that I can get a few days in that area.

After that flight our trip was pretty much over. We turned in all of our flight equipment, headed back to Anchorage to drop off the car. Then we headed out for some celebratory drinks. We had no car so we didn’t need to worry about a DD so we were all having a great time. So much so that when I ordered my 3^rd or 4^th drink I felt really tipsy, even sitting down. I looked at my drink and thought to myself, I better slow down here a little. Then I looked up and realized that I wasn’t the only one feeling this way. It wasn’t the alcohol making me feel tipsy but rather we were in the middle of a 6.3 magnitude earthquake. The ENTIRE building was shaking and people started standing up. Apparently that is a thing? After that we headed out to dinner and had a few more drinks before calling it a night to make our early flights the next morning.

Overall I shot around 6500 photos in 10 days pairing that down to about 500. The majority of those shots came during the scenic flights. It was totally amazing to see this park from the air. You lose all sense of scale when you are up there. Mountains that look close enough to crash into are a quarter mile away. Icebergs the size of houses are just dots in the bay. It’s the only way to really “see” the majority of the park. It’s a wild and untamed place. You could take any individual feature from this park whether it’s a mountain, waterfall, glacier, lake, etc. and place it in the lower 48 and it would be its own National Park. But here, it’s just another unnamed feature. Alaska really is the last frontier. It’s so freaking big and majestic that you can’t help but be humbled by it.

Going back to Alaska was like a breath of fresh air. It also sounds like there is opportunity to return to Alaska next summer for a chance to work with a different park, possibly Lake Clark or Katmai. I will be in Rocky Mountain, Arches, and Canyonlands National Parks next month. If you are in the area and would like to meet up for a drink, hike, or drink while hiking just let me know! Thanks again for following along with my travels and sorry it’s been so long. 

Cheers and happy travels!

We made it here the day it started snowing in addition to subzero temps. It's not enough snow to ski yet, but a little too much snow to hike. But before I get into that, I recently returned from a short trip to the east coast to see my photos in the Smithsonian and check out a few parks as well. It was pretty much a whirlwind tour.

THE PLAN: Arrive in DC, pick up our rental car, and drive towards Shenandoah National Park that night. Drive Skyline Drive through the park, hike as time allowed, and then continue on towards the north entrance of Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Then head out to Cades Cove for sunrise and continue on to Charleston, SC. From there we would spend a few days in Charleston, and make a day trip up to Congaree National Park where we could paddle and hike for the day. From Charleston we would head back to DC, drop off the car, and spend the long weekend in the city visiting museums and monuments before flying back to Denver and starting the new job in Yellowstone.

The drive through Shenandoah was really nice. Even though the fall color in the park was mostly gone, we did find a few spots that still held their leaves. We got a chance to watch the sunrise, get out on a short hike to a couple waterfalls, and check out the new exhibits in the visitor center.

Shenandoah Sunrise

Shenandoah Sunrise

First Light on the Fall Colors

First Light on the Fall Color

Darj Hollow Falls

Dark Hollow Falls

I was surprised to learn that both Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks were created using eminent domain. The history of both parks include some deep-seeded resentment for the government, and rightly so. People in Shenandoah were told that they would be able to stay on their land in the newly created park, then that decision was reversed by the next administration. I was also surprised to learn that Shenandoah was also home to a campground that was only for "negroes." I am really glad that the national park doesn't shy away from topics that may be uncomfortable to discuss because it is a reminder that segregation is not in our too distant past and that racism was an institutional part of our government. From there we headed to Pigeon Forge to stay for the night.

Now I won't get into it too much, but WTF is Pigeon Forge?!? It's like a honkey-tonk Vegas in the middle of nowhere. As we were driving through the city to find a place to eat we were driving through a never-ending gauntlet of amusement rides, dinner theaters, and flashing signs. The entire town is a tourist-trap. I have no idea how that town exists or why people go there.

The next morning we woke up early again, this time it was cold and foggy. We made our way into the park and started driving on the one-way road out to Cades Cove. Just as we came out of the trees we were greeted to an iconic misty-morning sunrise of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Sunrise in Cades Cove

Sunrise in Cades Cove

Morning Dew

Morning Dew on the Spider Webs

Morning Light in Cades Cove

Morning Light on the Webs

Morning in Cades Cove

Pasture Sunrise in Cades Cove

Misty Morning in Cades Cove

Misty Morning Sunrise and Spiderwebs

Once we made it to the Cades Cove ranger station we watched live demonstrations at the Cable Mill and Blacksmith shop. Both the guy in the mill and blacksmith shop were descendants of the people who settled the area. It was really cool to talk to the people who had a strong connection to the land that is now the national park.

Cable Mill in Fall

Fall colors at the Cable Mill

After leaving Cades Cove we drove south towards Cherokee and stopped to see the sights along the way.

Meigs Falls in Autmn

Meigs Falls in Autumn

Fall Colors

Fall Color in Great Smoky Moutains

Layers

Endless Ridges

We eventually made it to Charleston and took the next day to relax and hang with family. After catching up on some much needed sleep we hit the road again for Congaree National Park. This park was initially created as a national monument and later upgraded to a national park in 2003. I had heard great things about it so I had been wanting to go for sometime now, but when I looked on the website it mentioned that the best way to see the park was on one of their kayak tours. I looked to sign up for one but they weren't being offered when we were there so I reached out to the park and asked if they were in need of some photos in exchange for a "guided tour" on the water. They were happy to oblige and Ranger Lindsey was our guide for the day. She was very knowledgeable and friendly and gave us a great tour. We were even lucky enough to see 4 river otters. Lindsey told us that in 2 years of working for the park she has only previously seen 3 otters before that day. So definitely a big sighting!

Kayaking Cedar Creek

Setting out on Cedar Creek

Reflections on Cedar Creek

Cedar Creek Reflections

Corrie and Lindsay on Cedar Creek

Corrie and Our Fearless Leader

Reflections on Cedar Creek (2)

Widest Part of Cedar Creek on our Paddle

Bald Cypress Reflections (2)

Bald Cypress Reflections

Kayaker on Cedar Creek

Morning Light on the Creek

Kayakers on Cedar Creek (3)

Light at the End of the Tunnel

North American River Otter (2) - Lontra canadensis

Our River Otter Friend!

After our paddle we got back on terra firma and decided to go for a short hike to check out the park on foot. We saw a cardinal, a young white-tailed buck, rat snake, and some champion trees. I believe we saw the champion loblolly pine tree. It was a huge freaking tree. 

Black Rat Snake - Pantherophis obsoletus

Black Rat Snake

Once we were back in Charleston we were looking for a few things to check out in the area during the day and stumbled on a private park called Cypress Gardens. They have a swamp on the property and boats for you to use, aquariums, and have a butterfly house. So we spent the day on the water, looking for small wildlife, and trying to take pictures of the butterflies in the butterfly house. They are tricky buggers to shoot because they wouldn't stay still.

Sunning on a Long

Turtles on a log

Pond Lily

Pond Lily Bloom

Turtle Reflections

Turtle Reflections

Cypress Gardens

Cypress Gardens

Carolina Anole - Anolis carolinensis

Carolina Anole

Reversed Reflections

Reversed Reflections

Baby Gator

Baby Gator

Buterflies

From Charleston we headed back to DC and dropped the car off at the airport and met up with my family at the hotel. The next day was supposed to be the nicest while we were there so we decided to do the mall that day. We went up in the Washington Monument and visited the Lincoln Memorial, Arlington National Cemetery, and the U.S Marine Corps Memorial. It was a day full of patriotic sight-seeing and some real-world reminders about what this country has gone through to get where we are today.

Washington Monument

Washington Memorial at 555' 5 1/8"

One of the Fallen

Arlington Funeral Procession

On Guard

Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Changing of the Guard

Changing of the Guard

Changing of the Guard (2)

Changing of the Guard

Arlington National Cemetery

Lives Lost

Washington Monument seen From Arlington National Cemetery

Washington Monument Seen From Arlington National Cemetery

Sunset at Marine Corps War Memorial

Sunset at US Marine Corps Memorial

The rest of the trip we spent wandering around the museums including Ford's Theater, Smithsonian Museum of Natural History, and the U.S Botanical Gardens.

Ford's Theater

Ford's Theater and the Balcony Seat Where Lincoln was Shot

Lots of Cool Flowers in the US Botanical Gardens

Group at the Mall

Family Shot at Washington Monument

Me at the Smithsonian

Me and My Photo in the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History

The trip to DC was a great. I was humbled to get to see my work in the Smithsonian and it was a blast to see new parks, make new friends, and see friends and family. Then we flew back to Denver and started packing for the trip to Yellowstone. 

Eye on the Prize

Eye on the Prize

Roadblock

Standing in the Road

Fresh Snow in Norris Geyser Basin

Fresh Snow in Norris Geyser Basin

Ghost Trees

Ghost Trees

Meandering

Meandering

Norris Geyser Basin Reflections

Norris Geyser Basin Reflections

I hope this update finds everyone well, and if you happen to be in the area, be sure to look me up!

-Jake

Back Yard Alpenglow Winter Melting Away View From Lumpy Ridge Gem Lake Snowy Trail Ridge Road Ypsilon, Chiquita, and Chapin Sunset Moose Cow in the Field Broad-tailed Hummingbird - Selasphorus platycercus Meatball Squirrel Mallards - Anas platyrhynchos Wilson's Warbler - Cardellina pusilla American Pipit Ground Nest Ute Trail Hiker in the Apline Ute Trail Alpine Honeymoon Over Bear Lake Sprague Lake Reflections Morning in Moraine Park View from Sundance Mountain Sunset on Longs Peak Sunset over Deer Mountain Meeker and Longs from Estes Cone Sunset and Lava Cliffs From 12K ft Sunset Through the Cairn Sunset on CCY Elk on Sundance Mountain Ross Avens in the Evening Light Hazy Sunset Panorama Hazy Sunset From Sundance Mountain Milky Way and Sky Glow Over Bear Lake Pond Near Lake Hiyaha Field of Dreams Geum rossii in the Alpine Elk Calf in the Alpine Pika with Avens Bear Lake Sunrise Panorama Napping Marmot Evening Beers South Ute Trail Ridge Sunset (2) South Ute Trail Ridge Sunset Sunrise on Old Fall River Road Early Morning on the CCY Trail Chiquita Creek Drainage and Horseshoe Park Avens on Chiquita and Ypsilon Hiking the Ridge to Ypsilon Ridge Walking Ypsilon Ross Avens and Never Summer Mountain Old Man of the Mountain The Road Home The Pool Fern Falls Landscape First View of Lost Creek Falls Sunset From Huffer's Hill Summit Soda Syndicate on Huffer's Hill Sunrise at Timberline Falls Jon Overlooking Sky Pond and Loch Vale Sharktooth Ridge, Sky Pond, and Lake of Glass Fields of Bistort Sky Pond Young Elk in the Sun Badger in the Front Yard Continental Divide Near Hallet Peak Hikers on The Sharkstooth Group on Andrews Glacier Azure and Inkwell Lakes from Ida Summit Sodas on Ida Sunset at Fern Lake Debris in Fern Lake Summer into Fall Relaxing in the Aspens Rocky Mountain High Mouth of Dream Lake Emerald Lake Panorama Forest Canyon and Lost Creek Falls Self-portrait Upper Lost Creek Falls Rocks and Water Near Sky Pond Columbines and Sharktooth Ridge Badger in the Front Yard (4) Butterfly on Bistort Top of Sundance Sundance Proposal Curious Pika Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel Trevor Hiking Lava Cliffs (2) Tundra Sunset Hike Tundra Cartwheel Lava Cliffs Sunset Crepuscular Rays Sunset From Trail Ridge Road Mom and Friends Watching the Sunset Boulderfield Sunrise Self-portrait Chasm View The Diamond and Chasm Lake-
Projection: Cylindrical (1)
FOV: 186 x 103
Ev: 14.45 Mount Lady Washington and Chasm Lake from Chasm View Chasm Lake Junctino Cooling off with some Upslope Bridal Veil Falls   Fogbow on Sandbeach Mount Meeker from Sandbeach Lake   Thunder Lake at Night Sunrise at Thunder Lake (2) Sunrise at Thunder Lake (4) First Light at Thunder Lake Pilot Mountain and Mount Alice Reading the Map Pilot, Alice, Cheifshead, Longs, and Meeker Panorama Queens Crown and Chiefshead Peak Tundra Beers in Wild Basin Meeker, Longs, and Chiefshead   Ouzel Falls Hallett and Bear Lake Fall Colors Panorama Hallett and Fall Colors Gold Aspens Milkyway over Fern Lake First Light at Odessa Lake Odessa Lake reflections (2) Little Matterhorn Reflections Odessa Beach Odessa Lake Panorama Short-tailed Weasel Waterfall Above Spruce Lake Pond Below Loomis Lake Rams chewing their cud Ram in the Sun Panorama Buck Mule Deer Bull Elk Profile Sparring in the Front Yard The Upper Hand Refereeing the Match Moraine Park Stormy Hallett and Flattop Solitude Lake   Glacier Gorge Sunrise from BMVC Elk in Moraine Park