After being on the road for a few weeks at this point, including our recent backcountry trip to Phantom Ranch in Grand Canyon, we were looking forward to this float trip. Our friends planned a Green River trip through Cataract Canyon and extended an invite to us. The trip was planned for six days with a single layover day so that we could hike to the Doll House in the Maze District. As excited as I was to do this trip, I was also a little nervous because I've never been in a canoe that didn’t flip. Normally that isn’t a big deal but this time I had all my camera gear with me in the canoe. I had tried multiple times to figure out a system that I would be able to take my camera out for photos but ultimately decided that it was best to just wait until we were on shore or on a raft. As we floated through the canyon we were seeing lots of new birds, great views, and the occasional archaeological site.
Our first camp was on a beach, with great views of the Wingate. We even got in a few games of bocce after dinner.
Stillwater Reflections Panorama
The next morning we went on a hike near Turks Head to check out these cool petroglyph panels.
Maze District Petroglyphs
Petroglyph Rock Near Turk's Head
After floating all day and drinking, we pulled into camp with another great view. This time we were slightly up a hill on a beach overlooking the river.
Sunset at Ledge Camp
Fish-hook Cactus in Bloom
Indian Paintbrush
Still Water Canyon In Canyonlands
Once we got to the confluence and dropped the canoe, we got a sweet camp spot where we would have our layover day. We woke up with a spectacular sunrise, packed up, and started our hike up the “trail.” It turned out to be the most spectacular hike I've done in Canyonlands to date.
Sunrise from the Tent
Morning Glory Sunrise
Floating the Colorado through Cataract Canyon
The hike was challenging, there were flowers everywhere, spectacular views of the canyon and river, and the weather warm in the sun and cool in the shade. Once we made it up the backside of the canyon we were greeted to the view of Surprise Valley which is a Hoarst and Gräben type valley. It was lush and hidden from view until you walked into it, hence the name I guess. From Surprise Valley we hiked up another route towards the Doll House. On this route we went over more spectacular terrain, through some joints, and eventually popped out in the Cedar Mesa Formation. It was like being back over in the Needles.
Surprise Valley Hikers
Surprise Valley
Seeking the Sun
Hiking in the Doll House
Once we made it to the top we had a spectacular view of the entire park. From the Maze we could see Chesler Park, iSky, the La Sals, and the Abajos. We hung out at the top for an hour or so, soaked in the views, then headed back down towards camp just in time for cocktail hour. It was by far my favorite day of the trip.
Overlooking Surprise Valley
Mile 5 Canyon Hikers
Campfire in Cataract Canyon
Cataract Canyon at Night
The following day was the big rapid day. We geared up to get wet and rigged the boats to flip. The first few rapids we went through were only class 2 and 3 and I was able to keep my camera out.
Cataract Canyon Rapids
Smiles On the River
Then I was told that I might want to put it away because we were about to go through our first big wave. As soon as I clipped my dry bag shut the river swallowed our boat momentarily. I was caught so off guard when the wave hit that I had my mouth open from laughing and got a mouth full of dirty-ass river water. Then we had a few more smaller rapids before we got out to scout Big Drop #2 and #3.
Scouting Big Drop 2
Once the boatmen had their line we jumped in the boats and went for it. HOLY SHIT! A big wave train followed by a huge rapid that smashed our boat, almost ejecting our boatman. The other passenger and I high-sided and kept the boat from getting too vertical and flipping. After we made it through the rapid I looked upstream to watch the other boat go through and it was like a mirror image of our boat. They went through the wave train and then were thrashed as they hit Big Drop #2 spinning the boat and forcing the boatman to drop the oars and highside to keep the boat from flipping. Needless to say, once we made it through we were all happy and celebrated with a bottle of champagne.
For the rest of the day it was a smooth float with towering canyon walls, and a nice current. Now that the lake is so low, the river is taking over again and slowing washing all of the sediment further downstream. The last day on the river was a cold one right from the start. We woke up to a windstorm rolling through the canyon and eventually the rain rolled in as well. We shared rowing duties to keep warm in the wind and rain and pulled into Hite around 11 am.
The Walls of Cataract Canyon
Trip notes: Overall, we floated around 100 miles. It was a great trip and it made me like Canyonlands even more than I already did. Layover days on the river are awesome, it's like backpacking and waking up in the backcountry but with less work. When we made it to camp each night, we were treated to some of the best food I've eaten in a long time. One of the couples on the trip used to guide in the area. It was a treat to be able to float down the river with such great company who knew the area so well. It’s gonna be hard to beat this last trip, but rest assured I will certainly try.
Screenshot 2024-02-15 at 8.23.21 PM
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